Hey Adam, I’m not sure VW sell the pulley on its own but this is the one I bought 050401-BFCGC-AFG it’s a febi bilstein so it’s a good quality part, it’s been fitted to my van for months now with absolutely no issue
Thank you! Is the original cable braided? I think I saw them for around £15 however I went for this one because it’s a solid core so (hopefully) shouldn’t suffer the same fate
@@TeeeTV I am pretty sure it's exactly the same as the old one you extracted. It obviously had many miles on it so a braided new one would have been fine too.
Increase boost from turbo valve, ,4-5 turns will boost quicker. egr valve block plate with 5 mm hole. Adjust egr to min. Will see engine light without egr blank plate hole (restrict not blank.) Quicker times and better eco. 1.9 TDI AVF. (130)Passat/Audi A6 quattro.1998-2004.
Sorry for such a slow reply to this but I’ve been researching what you’ve said to apply it to my van, it looks like what you’re saying can be done to an older 1.9tdi with an EDC15 ECU however mine is a EDC16, and while I can’t turn the turbo valve without causing an EML I can turn the EGR off and adjust the N75 valve in the map to achieve the same results.
My 2.0 140 hp 6-speed t5.1 accelerated to 100 in 14 seconds before the tune and 13 seconds after. After that 10 years have passed and the engine and the gerabox are still ok
Nice Video... I would try this on my t5 1.9 105bhp... I want to get about 130bhp and a little more Torque, when i m driving with the Caravan 👍👍👍 thanks for this Video... Wich dongle did you use?
It’s not a stage 3, it’s just me breaking down the changes I was making into 3 stages, a proper stage 3 would require alot of hardware changes (intake, intercooler, turbo, gearbox etc). With the map in the van I was at around 100bhp, doesn’t sound like much but that’s nearly 20% over standard
Yeah considering how little effort it took to make the changes I’m pretty happy, I’ve been working on the map since I made the video and I think right now I’m at around 120bhp :) I’ll have a new video up soon with how far I get with it
I’ve used the MPPS v16 software to read and write to the Ecu, I’ve used numbers/excel to make my changes to the data and I used a website called ecumasterhp to create the remap file, when you sign up to exumasterhp you get 3 months free map editing so it’s only worth signing up to once you have everything else ready :)
Yeah, that’s one thing I noticed when I was researching doing the remap, info is very few and far between and you need very specific hardware and software depending on your Ecu. The only software I know of that might be able to do a Toyota is winOLS, but it ain’t cheap
@@TeeeTV if you want all vehicle support probably you need an Alien tech KTAG or KESS. I mean it's expensive. But I think way more cost effective than winols.
I used the MPPS software to read and write to the ECU, I used excel/numbers to make my changes to the map and I used a website called ECUMasterHP to create the file that get written to the ECU, hope this helps!
In the same category as Ford Ranger drivers.......they all drive like bells. If you want a fast vw work harder and buy a golf gti or golf r etc......then people wont laugh at you so much.
Got a feeling you have no idea about the transporter community, or that a transporter will easily out price a golf gti. You might find people will laugh at your comment far more than they’ll laugh at me
I’ll be honest, it’s been a minute since I fixed the issue so my memory is a bit hazy, but I remember low down in the rev range it was horrible to drive, dangerously slow and very easy to stall, but was better in the higher rev range
Imagine doing this with Caddy 2.0tdi with 55kw, its the same identic engine as 2.0tdi 110kw, only difference is 5vs6speed gearbox. You can end up with 140kw just with remap.
It does seem crazy to have identical engines with massively different power outputs. Considering the hardware I am using for mine has cost me £12 it’s got to be the highest bhp per £1 I have ever gained
I think your either a transit fan or a transporter fan, going to be interesting which way people sway when the new transporter comes out since it’ll be identical to a transit just with different headlights
in the future, you might want to invest into Draggy or Pgear to have accurate data and to record improvements. In a manual car, you want to take the launch out of the equation by starting with a roll let say in a 2nd gear from 15MPH or just do 3rd gear roll from 15MPH and set in a draggy 20mph - 65mph and actually start flooring from 15mph if that makes sense. this way it would be very accurate test.
I will be investing in a proper data box of some sort, not sure which one yet but I agree that a 0-60 is not the most ideal test. Also I quickly realised how inaccurate a phone app is!
Broo heck off a video congrats, please try finding and coping tha pd130 type that everyone is telling and steal the map info and put it in yours, we have done it with the TSI series engines and it sure works, only it has to be the same engine map maf and displacement and you shouldnt have a problem
Yes I have recently been comparing a 105 map compared to mine and I did start looking for a 130 bin file but haven’t found one yet, when I do I’ll be using it to my advantage :)
Oooh yess, I’m aware! Why VW thought putting such a weak gearbox in a goods vehicle was a good idea is beyond me, guess I’ll have to keep my eyes peeled and my wallet full ready for a 6 speed
Couple of tips: Test out both smoke limiters, some TDI's use MAF smoke limiter by default, others use MAP (to the best of my knowledge more modern ones usually run MAP-based limiter, I could be wrong however - but my past 2 EDC16 ECU's (1.9 and the other 2.0) were both using MAP-based limiter by default. So in that case, just extrapolate if need-be and change the last column to something higher so it allows more fuel as you get more boost. If you don't mind a bit of smoke, scale the whole map up a bit to get better response from the pedal/turbo, or if you don't want any smoke when revving freely but don't mind a bit of smoke when you're mashing the pedal down in gear and the slight jerk that you might feel (it may feel like a tiny "turbo lag" when in reality it's just that once you get to x amount of boost the ECU allows a huge amount of extra fuel in out of nowhere and that gives you a bit of a "kick" when accelerating) then you can leave the bottom parts stock, and just increase the higher portion of the map up a bit, so like starting from around 2000 mBar pressure zone you can ramp up the fuel, but it's not the best idea for comfort because of the previously mentioned "kick" if you decide to overtake or something. Extrapolate the N75 map outwards and keep an eye on the boost as it may spike, like my VNT17 turbo for example, before I tweaked the duty cycle it was giving me a nice stable 2.85 bar absolute around 2250-2750 rpm, but then I added 1-2 points of duty cycle at 2500 rpm and saw over-boost going into the 3.1-3.2 bar territory on my boost gauge! So I've calmed the N75 map down a notch again. Always check your injection duration maps to make sure they're calibrated for the specified fuel flow requirements in your torque limiter and IQ to Nm conversion maps. You could be asking for 61mg but you might only have calibration data for 60mg for example, thus you will get 1mg less than you request. And if you need to do that then also have a look at start of injection maps, change them as well to not allow the end of injection to go over 10 degrees ATDC with the new duration values - if you don't change them you will not get the full power and you will waste fuel. Just my 2 cents on the matter, advice taken from my own experience.
Thank you for your wisdom! But there’s something that’s been bothering me since I started this and it’s that I only seemed to have access to the iq by MAF and not the MAP. I thought maybe it was missed by the edcmasterhp website but I’ve been on winols and it’s not there, I can find the map’s axis but the data is just 00000. I can only assume that the BRR doesn’t have a MAP based smoke map available, which then gets me onto trying to work out the equation for the AFR, as far as I can tell the AFR under my current map set up (not the same map as the video) is between 20-24 and I’m struggling to bring in down into the 16-18 range under the current map parameters, without having a full copy of winols I don’t know how to change the axis of the maps. I haven’t really played with injection timing yet, I’m sort of trying to really get my head around the more basic maps before diving into crank angles. Any advise on AFR calcs would be very welcome! Why it couldn’t just run on MAP eh?
@@TeeeTV I believe it could be the duration maps that are limiting the AFR. I can look it up tonight, what is the part number and software version of the ecu?
@@TeeeTV are you asking about estimating boost requirements for a certain AFR? If so, then I generally use my estimated 473.6mg as a naturally aspirated air quantity at 1900-2000 rpm. So if you want for example an estimated 18:1 AFR with 60mg fuel at 2000 rpm I would put it at around 2280mBar absolute pressure. It is just a guide, but it worked well enough for me so far. Just a note though, torsion value of the engine will have a big impact on performance (breathing, fuelling, etc), I had -5 and my engine power was very irregular and sluggish, then I got it to +1 and out of nowhere there was a mountain of torque, slightly better fuel economy, turbo spooled better, etc.
Yeah I’ve started looking into durations now, I haven’t loaded one onto the van but trying to get my spreadsheet to behave how I expect, I’m actually on holiday right now so can’t get the numbers but I’ll send them over when I’m back on the 18th
Not sure I understand, the power to the laptop is just an extension lead from the house, I plug it in to make sure that my laptop doesn’t run out of charge while the map is being written as this could corrupt the Ecu
@@TeeeTV alright I didn't think about that 😅. Isn't it better to in gear pulls or from 30 to 70 instead of 0-60. It will be more consistent and convenient to test since it is all about drivability and no one is launching it on daily basis
Probably yes, with a proper logging equipment that would be ideal, however finding a 70mph road in west London that isn’t full of other cars can be challenging unless I want to film at 3am. I mainly was trying to find a way of recording my improvements from one map to the next and a free phone app seemed like the best option at the time, but it will only record 0-60 times… yeah it is what it is 😂
I have 124,000 miles so about 200,000 kms, I haven’t had any unexpected problems, the van was very badly maintained before I bought it, so I have slowly been replacing old worn out parts: bushes, bearings, cam belt, aux belt, water pump, boost pipes and seals etc. but as for anything else it’s been no problem at all. The only real issue I’ve had is the EGR stopped working but then every transporter in the world seems to have issues with the EGR
Hey there, this video comes in handy as im planning to do the same. which engine code do you have? is it BRR? I often read that the performance difference between BRR and BRS is basically just the software and nothing else. So just getting to the torque and power of the BRS shouldn't stress the engine in any way because it's basically stock i think :)
Yes I have the BRR, it’s been an interesting thing to learn and humbled me about me knowledge of engines, but there are some very clever people making good videos out there showing you how and what to do and on top of that I’ve had some really informative comments on this video to help me improve the van further
that’s exactly what I plan to do :) I’d like to include some better 0-60 data and also maybe get it booked onto a dyno to get a power figure, but who knows! Got a lot going on right now so no promises it’ll happen soon but I’m going to keep plugging away at improving the map in my spare time, there still lots of other jobs that need doing on the van… especially body/paintwork
You tried 0-60 without remap, the the next tries you have 0-100kmh in your measurements... 0-60mph is 0-96.56kmh... so you never have a accurate comparison....
I wasn’t ever going to achieve perfect 0-60 times with an app that only refreshes at probably around 3 times a second, 3 of my runs ended in .95 which isn’t really believe able, a proper race box would be a much better way of measuring. I can accept that having consistency in the mph or kph target would have been a better representation of was more to show that I was actually making improvements to the performance of the van, I would like to get something more accurate for next time I log some times though
Got a Nissan Elgrand van, from factory it comes with 3.5 V6 and 250bhp and 4x4. Cost me the princely sume of £3400 with 117k miles. Tis alot of fun blowing away £60k+ VW vans, have a badge onnthe back that says 1.3 Eco Cargo Van to add insult to the maga ££ vans out there, only because I can't afford an expensive VW van 😁
Mate!! Love that! I want to blow away cars that I shouldn’t be once I’m done, mines a previous write off so was cheap! ( although still covered in dents and bad previous repairs which I will fix one day)
I have a W638 Vito with 108CDI (82ps). The Engine is the same on the 112CDI(122HP). First i bought an 112CDI ECU and cloned the Immobilizer. What a difference. After 2 days i started like you. I wanted more. 0-100KMH in 10s is best i can do with stock turbo. Started at over 18s. Now 4 years into it, i'm building new turbo on the engine, different injectors and oil cooler. If you first started you get addicted to it. Love the video. Feel the pain ;)
I think you’re right, but I’ve got a feeling with the new transporter being a ford that people are going to start migrating over to the vito.. I know I certainly am thinking that way should I decide to buy something newer
Im pretty sure you did not do it right😅, my tip will be pay for file from a good tuner, and if you want to learn, compare from the good tuned file from someone that knows. Dont drive with a bad file, that can cost a lot more then a good file. I had stage 1+ in engine like this, and it was moving much better then this 🫡 also stage 1/2 is whats normal, stage 3 they often call it when you get a remap + upgrade parts. Mpps is cheap and nice on this old ecus, this ecu you can do what you want, recover everytime 👍, done tuning for 5years ✅️ have genuine tools also now tho
Yes, I think you may have misunderstood, the stages that are in my videos are just the stages that I was making my changes in, they have nothing to do with a stage 1 remap or stage 2 remap, I agree that it would be better to purchase a real map but that’s a bit boring, I can learn with this engine and I’m not too worried. I’m actually returning better mpg since making these changes too
Which 12v live did you use mate? I bought a camera for mine a long time ago, thought i was doing everything right but have never been able to get it to work so gave up 😂 Cheers 🤙🏻
Hi mate, I can’t quite remember but I think the 12v live came off the back of the head unit, there was a spare I believe (or I just spliced into it) as for the signal wire to tell the head unit that the van is in reverse I took that from the reverse light wire, hope that helps
Actually I always reverse onto my drive, the only reason I pulled on forwards in the video is because my extension lead from the house won’t reach the front of the van if I reverse
Yes I know it’s just silly money to get a 6spd for a transporter block, actually cheaper to buy a used fabia vrs and take the engine and gearbox and put them in together
Go for it! Looks like your Ecu is a edc16 too so all the hardware and software I used should work for you too, I’m not sure how you map out the DPF but I’m sure there are videos out there that show it
Good video! I always wondered what chip tuning looks like end to end and this is it. Shame you don't have a dyno ready at hand. I think you can do a sortofish dyno run if you know your vehicle weight, and the use acceleration data to calculate approximate hp/nm values. It'd give you an idea of what your torque and power curves look like.
Thank you! Yeah it’s surprisingly difficult to find a video that goes over the whole process, I didn’t even think of that until now but I have searched before and not found anything. I actually found a website that would estimate my power figures and I used the weight that vw provide as a curb weight but the estimate hp/nm figures seemed way off so I just ignored them, once I’m happy that I’ve got a good feeling tube on it I might see if I can get a power run done on a dyno :)
@@TeeeTV Go for it mate! The world finally deserves to know how to do a poor man's remap and actually get more hrsprs! But how many? Think of all the lads and lasses tossing and turning around all night, not knowing just how much horsepower can you get with a DIY job.
I have been and still am one of those lads and lasses staring the the ceiling at night thinking about rolling coal while doing a 2nd gear burnout off the popcorn limiter, but then I snap out of it realising I’ve got 2 kids and a dog and a wife that wouldn’t be amused if I did that at every traffic light 😂
@@TeeeTV thanks,. all done, how do you download the file from the edc website to my laptop so that it is in the correct format to be downloaded into the ecu
@@sas8403 you need to upload the file from your vehicle to the website, then you can make your changes and save them and then download them back to your laptop so that it can be written to your vehicle. The website is just a way of reading the file instead of trying to learn a complicated software like winOLS
Hi, nice first try of remap. If I can give you some advice: Drivers wish map is translation between throttle pedal position and requested torque. You made your throttle feel sharper, but you can be limited by last column. You can increase the last column even more . Also there should be inverse drivers wish map, which needs also modifying to make any differnce in normal drivers wish map (by lowering the values in it). You can increase your torque limiter map even more, your gearbox can handle 280 nm safely (that is value reduced by internal friction, not value in torque limiter), so you can put in 300 nm between 2000 and 4000 rpm, then smoothen values around so you dont have any sudden kicks (for example 280 nm at 1900, 265 at 1750, 280 at 4200, 250 at 4500). Or you can calculate it from nm to iq and friction map accordingly You dont have to increase boost at low load, only at last column, or you increase fuel consumption. 2200 mbar between 2000 and 4000 is ok. Boost limiter map should be at 2250 mbar, but there should be one more, boost limiter by charge temp. Also there will be some single value limiters. Also dont forget to change N75 map (at least the last column) according to logs, or decrease the last iq column values by 3 to lower overboosting, if you dont have logging equipment. Smoke limiter, dont go under 17,5:1 AFR, so you dont make too much smoke. You also missed a lot of IQ limiters and single value boost limiters (these might be set to high enough boost not to need changing). If they are not in EMHP, you can use EDCSuite, or you can find them in hexdump. If you find all the maps and change them properly, you can have 125-135 hp from your modified circa 95 hp.
Yo this comment should be pinned, you gave some good advice! Also I would add this, I dont know about Diesel quality there what cetane it is, So for fun, try "Redline 85 diesel+" additive Boosts cetane and helps make like 3-5 HP on T5 2.0 TDI with 230k km
Wow! Thank you, I have been playing with WinOLS to try and get the hang of it but I’m still learning to read the map, I feel like once I have learnt that it will open up my options, but I am going to copy this comment and paste it into my spreadsheet and go through everything I can, again thank you! ❤️
@@TeeeTV In WinOLS you have much more options. You can find bins with mappack from 77kw 1.9 tdi on the internet and compare the maps with your bin. Both use EDC16U31and have very similar structure. Good luck
You are not wrong!! I 100% need a new one! Even a £100 dell would be an improvement, it had been sat on a shelf forgotten about until I needed xp on a laptop to read the ECU!
The dongle I used to plug into the OBD11 is called an MPPS V16, the software I used to read/write is called EDCsuite (it’s not too hard to find but needs to be run on win xp), the website I used to understand the map and change the data on is called edcmasterhp (when you sign up you get 3 months free map editing) and this is all for a edc16 Ecu, if you have an edc15 I believe all this will work too, but if you have a edc17 you’ll need different hardware/software
@@TeeeTV Awesome video, I could not imagine that the EDC gets told the "wishes" of the driver to manage the engine! I had always imagined about meaningless alphanumerical raw values written in the excel bloks. To me, mapping has been an obscure thing until your video. I can't find the EDCsuite for the edc16, I have found only the BCDsuite 1.3 that is for the edc15... where have you found the one for the edc16? About your van (BRR or BRS, I don't remember), it has the turbo integrated in the manifold which is made to give exctly a low output, if you want to reach like 135ps or more, I think you should swap your turbo with a turbo from the golf 1.9 130ps or smth like. Just my 2 cents...
@@conquino2217apologies!! The software for the MPPS V16 is not EDCsuite! It’s the MPPS V16 software, not easy to find, I found it on cartechnology.co.uk but it a right pain to get it all installed etc. the website edcmasterhp is what I used instead of edcsuite as I couldn’t find a download for edcsuite anywhere despite finding lots of people saying how good it is….
Yes I kept forgetting to set it to MPH to maintain consistency, but since I kept getting XX.95 I suspect the app can only refresh so quickly so getting proper accurate data is impossible, but at least it can record some sort of improvement, I might invest in a race box or similar before attempting more power runs
