Playzwithcars is an eclectic blend of Automotive Restoration and Repair Videos, Automotive Events, Tools and Tips, and General Information geared towards the automotive enthusiast. Cars are part of my DNA!
I have been involved with cars at an early age, and have a passion for all automotive activities, including shows, museums, cruising, racing, rebuilding and restoration. I would like to transfer this information acquired, and hopefully provide some guidance to others and spark their interest or help them along in their projects.
For 67's and other C2's there is a small hole in the upper a-arm and the end of the spring coil MUST be within 3/8" of that hole. It doesn't matter were the bottom end of coil sits.
So I just used this technique with a heat gun to remove the bonding strips for my lower front valence on my 72 C3. Wow! It works beautifully! Used a heat gun and putting knife. Took me about 45 minutes but got the valence off without cutting or chiseling. Just take your time and apply heat, remove the edges at the bonding strip, continue applying heat, wedging the putty knife under the bonding strip, etc.
Hey Plaze, I found your video very informative. I completed the removal of my small block 65 vette springs and method worked well and SAFE. Going to install control arms tomorrow. Thank you! Bob
The convertible x-brace works great. Noticeably changes the stiffness of the car and virtually eliminates most noises that are common (especially on the targa top).
Also if you have a tranny pan with a drain in the middle rear of the pan, the x of the x-brace does interfere, but you will have to drill a spot in the plate.
Great info, thank you! I'm working on my 79 T/A and this will be much better than the chain method I've seen (for removal). Also - Ratcheting Box Wrench! ;-)
Thanks for all those tricks. I'm in the middle of a Muncie rebuild right now. I got my rebuild kit from Paul also. That's great advice about not pressing out the reverse idler gear bushings. Those countershaft needle bearings are a pain. I put my counter shaft in the freezer to help those needle bearings stick after they are installed. I like your undersized needle bearing chase idea. I love the idea of using the anaerobic sealer on the countershaft thrust washers. I'm going to try that. Great tips. Thanks.
Great video! I just removed my springs and control arms using your method. But I used 5/8" stainless steel threaded rod, nuts and washers. But I used a wheel puller to mount to the lower arm and bolted it to the shock mount... Worked perfectly for removing the springs and will be just as easy to install the new ones. BTW it took me 45 minutes to remove the passenger side upper, lower control arms, spindle and springs. SAFELY!
In the very book you cited, McLellan explains that the X brace was added to the convertibles to fix a localized vibration in the seats and floor pan. Page 146, second paragraph. Nowhere does he say anything about it stiffening the chassis. And the reason is because it does not stiffen the chassis. They did other things for that, as explained in the same paragraph. This piece is worthless for addressing the torsional flex these cars suffer and I'm afraid you've wasted your time, money, and effort putting it in your car. Moreover, this video is perpetuating this myth among all the unwitting who come here to watch it. Your intentions are good but your intel is bad. Anyone who is not convinced, take this assembly or any one like it and grab it by two ends while sticking the other two under something heavy and then see how much you can twist the thing with just the force of your puny human arms. Now imagine what a thousand ft-lbs like a car chassis experiences would do.
SUPER HELPFUL!!! Are the STLs available online by chance? Thank you for the video! There aren't many going over this problem with the C4s. When removing the airbag, we found that the old switch and contacts were entirely destroyed.
Thanks for the video. That's a very clean looking C4. I'm going to have to pull the fuel pump on my 95, I've got an internal fuel leak somewhere and it doesn't seem to be from injectors or FPR
Thanks for doing this video. It helps a lot. Currently have a 1966 corvette with the splash shield in the left rear fender where the power antenna bracket attaches.) The splash panel is broken in half right below the antenna bracket. I believe this splash shield was just bonded to the left fender and body pan without a bonding strip. Do you have any recommendations for how to remove this splash shield? I do not want to damage the exterior paint on the fender. Was thinking of just cutting it out and then sending it flush to the fender and body pan? Was wondering what your opinion is. Again thank you.
It is a 10 second exposure time to the UV light, not instantaneous as I explained in my video. To me 10 seconds is pretty instantaneous compared to other adhesives. I've fixed jewelry, glasses, strain relieved wires, and so many broken tabs on plastic trim already. It is pretty awesome. At work we have UV adhesives, but you need to buy expensive light sources and large quantity tubes of material. Having a small quantity of material and a self contained light source is great. I've relegated one of these to my portable tool bag.
Another question, I noticed the stock fuel pump assembly has a pulsator and the new Delphi unit has the rubber hose. Did you notice any difference? I heard the pulsator was to prevent surges and sound dampening. I ordered this Delphi unit but was considering using a pulsator if it’s needed?
Great video. I was first found to order the AC Delco professional sender and a Delphi fuel pump and it was gonna come out to 200. This Delphi one you used is 296. I like the idea of all of it coming assembled in a box. I read some reviews on it it and some said there was rust on the next filler? Did you come across any quality issues with your new pump? I thought about just changing my fuel pump and keeping the sender but worried if the sender will crap out later and I have to replace it again.
The only quality issue I had there is a tube on the top of the sender unit, this is bent different than the original, and getting the bolt fastened under the tube was a little difficult because of the different bend of the tube. I think I used an open end wrench on the bolt.
I don’t know what the hell my problem is but I’ve followed your instructions and others on UT and all I get is parts covered with a small amount of black ???? Something on it that I have to buff off. Also after plating I dip them in distilled water and after a day or two I have rust on the surface! WTH ?
I have to comment on your post. I have been struggling for days trying to get my 76 Corvette front springs installed. After watching your video I had both installed in a few hours. I used a much thinner rod 13mm because that was all I could get in my small town. So thank you very much for your knowledge.
Did you completely dismantle the entire vehicle to expose the bare frame like this asshat did? Beware when a youtube video uses the words "quick", "safe" and/or "easy".
