Service and repair of computers, tablets, mobile cell phones and electronics in general. On this channel I mainly make videos about the different devices I repair and service. I also make videos about things I have learnt regarding electronics repair over the years that I believe may be of benefit to you.
Join me on this journey of discovery, learning and teaching and please subscribe to the channel and spread the word. Thank you.
If you have something you would like me to repair for you, please contact me through the website:
irefab.co.uk
Your Host - Shofi Cloudy Birmingham United Kingdom
When I was ordering the replacement belts I had some communication back and forth with a British company that specialises in manufacturing replacement drive belts. They advised us about the 6% for the stretch. If my memory serves me well I believe the name of the company was DeckTech UK.
I have had mine for abt 6 years, end of the motor has got quite rusty. Are there any alternatives u would recommend to this trimmer as u cant buy these new anymore. Want something similar to this for detail and beard trimming
For detailing look for the Babyliss Pro detailer, I still have my sterling 2 and still use it to trim the sides of my beard with the number 2 blade plastic cover thingy and use the Babyliss for detailing. I’ve been complimented by so many people on how clean it looks (the beard) 😊
I have used many other beard trimmers but keep finding myself coming back to the Wahl Sterling 2 plus for bulk beard trimming. A quick search online and I found this link for you, it looks like they are selling it for about £50. I cannot vouch for this company’s customer service or reputation so please check everything out carefully before making a purchase from them. cosmeticsally.co.uk/products/2381
Hi,I’ve got a xsara Picasso 2002 and while the key will work if I put it in the lock,it won’t from the lock-unlock buttons.I tried new batteries,cleaning the circuit board,nothing seems to work.The micro switches click so not sure if they are at fault or not,can you help.
You can not tell if the switches are faulty by the clicks alone, this would need to be tested with a multimeter. Also it is possible some other component on the board is faulty. If you would like us to have a look at it for you please send your enquiry through the website contact form on the link below and somebody will get back to you irefab.co.uk
Good vid. Any advice for my s7 edge with no charge, no power, and no face notification LED or vibration? At this point the only sign of life i get is when i connect the micro usb cord the LED rear facing tourch flashlight flickers on and off rapidly. Prior to that i was able to apply pressure in a specific area of the phone and get it to almost fully boot before freezing on the AT&T boot screen
Could be the be the balls under the power management chip, could be a CPU short. You will need someone who has a thermal camera to check it out. Best to get down to a local reputable repair shop. They should be able to confirm that for you. If it’s a CPU short, it’s time to move on. Power management IC is doable 👍
@@irefab Thanks for the reply. The Power management IC section heats up considerably when the LED flashlight starts flickering. I'm pretty sure it's the top section of the PCB, although I suppose it could be whatever is directly underneath it on the backside. I have access to a soldering station with hot air, would it be jumping the gun to pull the PM IC? Thanks again.
Underneath the video there is a link to a service manual. Download that first and follow the procedure to eliminate all the other components in the power supply chain. The you can try pulling the PMIC and re-balling it. Failing that you could try replacing it with a new one. But you have to be careful as the CPU/RAM is directly underneath on the backside of the PCB. Too much heat and you will melt the balls under the CPU. If you can’t get hold of a thermal camera try the freeze spray method to locate the source of the heat first before you start taking things apart. At least that will give you a better idea of the location of the fault.
@@irefab great info. I tried a brief low temp (500~°F) reflow on the pmic and had small luck getting the screen to display the Samsung and at&t logo but shortly after the flashlight led started to go crazy when connected to usb. Hopefully I didnt already bridge any solder balls on the cpu area. I'll be check out that service manual shortly. Thanks again I'm hoping for the best
Indeed, your observation is accurate and we highly value your contribution. In PART ONE of this two part video, we thoroughly addressed the topic of safety, devoting an entire section of the video to emphasise the hazards associated with working near the high voltage capacitor. Furthermore, we provided comprehensive instructions on the precautions that must be taken while handling this particular component. It was explicitly mentioned at the outset of the video that prior to undertaking this repair, it is imperative for individuals to watch PART ONE first. Link available here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m8bchK3hTdY.html
I have no affiliation to the sellers below and cannot vouch for their quality, reliability and customer service. I am only sharing the links because yourself requested some assistance. If you want it fast and are willing to pay a bit more here’s a link from the UK: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364086596474?itmmeta=01HYJHS876FVZZ44VP3AFSX8FP&hash=item54c540937a:g:oZcAAOSwwUZl-xRF&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwOAaGVtVFrClrunnxgon8ozqiXCRMjEqGSwvelp%2FDJt5I3oZn%2BTYeIBnJDx0MCWeCrwPys68bNB5srMRoi4k3GBjki7SJI943zYrXDhDM4jc%2FOixJ3xgfWZYSPRGkk%2BHRhygOkzicgr5mBALgIzrXZbbI4XPMHn6okwdx4azeUuh41jVda%2FMYFkMPWOBCAaITbJu9678%2FPNzGCVqLIKrrRCUiZEwN2%2FedOVjJBHad4AElzFPG1Di0dWarlqxCdcFeg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABlBMUNqD5dH0Yw However, if you are willing to wait a little longer for delivery you can get it for cheaper directly from china on the link below: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003675185692.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.7311k3K8k3K8p8&algo_pvid=03a366ba-22ae-41ac-beb7-cddadc2e16dd&algo_exp_id=03a366ba-22ae-41ac-beb7-cddadc2e16dd-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21GBP%2126.29%2126.29%21%21%2132.48%2132.48%21%40211b612817164621476015898ef912%2112000026754490444%21sea%21UK%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=FcqIZ9adpKTJ&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A If you want to do your own search just use google and search for the term “CT-X636F LCD” and you should see a whole bunch of them come up for you to choose from. Hope this helps 👍
We've received some new info following the release of our latest video featuring new details, prompting us to highlight this information for anyone attempting this repair. Please be aware that we do not offer key code programming services, so we cannot confirm the accuracy of this information. The guidance shared here is based on feedback from our audience. 1. After the 664006 IC is replaced, the key is now in a “Virginised State” 2. In this state the key cannot be programmed to the car by just sticking it in the ignition and pressing the key’s on the Fob. 3. To programme this key to the the vehicle you need to get hold of an Auto Locksmith that has a software called “Lexia” and the hardware to go with it. It is the same software and hardware that the Citroen Dealers use themselves. 4. But that’s not all, to programme this Fob to the vehicle you will also need what is called a “Confidential Code”. This code was provided on a card when the vehicle was purchased new. If you have lost this code it can be obtained directly from Citroen by providing the VIN number of the vehicle and proof of ownership. 5. You will also need the little black transponder chip. 6. Once you have all the above, the Auto Locksmith can then successfully pair the key to the car. So in conclusion the Key Fob can be programmed to the vehicle but there is a procedure to follow. Where as before even if you followed the procedure above you would not be able to programme it because the original 664006 IC on your Key Fob was faulty.
We encountered a recent job that required us to replace the 664006 IC on the board, which is responsible for storing the central locking code. It proved to be quite a challenge, and I highly suggest watching that video as simply swapping the chip won't restore its functionality. There are additional steps involved in the process. Check out the video through this link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DxTn7kUUQww.html
hi buddi i got the same propblem but cant smel any burning just tripps out when put it on tool when i it tripped out the first time i reset it it run about a few secounds then tripped out but tryed it yesterday soon as i put it to tool no running just tripps out can you give me some advice on it its a good machine dont whant to by new one thank robert
Hi Robert, If you could answer a few questions, that would help me advise you better. How old is the machine? How often is it used? Meaning is it used daily?
If it’s 4 years old and used daily from my experience I would say the bearings are shot in the main motor housing causing it to short and trip. The first thing I would check is the wiring from the mains plug. See if you have continuity and no shorts by using a multimeter to test. Then I would check the circuit board and finally the motors. There are 2 motors on this machine. 1st is the main suction motor and the other 2nd is the brush motor. It’s quite a big job taking it all apart, if you don’t have the patience it’s best to get a local repair shop to check it over for you. Hope this helps 👍
Absolutely 😊 I got them off eBay and here’s the link for you: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175330263830?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=b4JUopO9Ti6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=oEyjfHWgSpm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY If that link no longer works, the size you want is 6mm x 9mm x 15.5mm and you can find them under the search term “Carbon Brushes” …. Hope this helps 👍
Fab work! You're super talented! Your vids are extremely helpful and clear cut. Your explanations are thorough and informative. Keep the vids coming along sir.
I liked the idea and insight on the IC work. Many just say "then hook this to that" to pump.out a video. Anyway, I wanted to bump it for you with a comment. Idk if the size of the comment is a factor in the algorithm so I will go a bit more rambly just in case. I was thinking thwre are many "for parts"(usually bad screen) phones out there with much larger capacities. Idk, there may be an issue with using newer/other hardware to do this, but there isn't ither than having to do it a little differently that cool! My ideal was seeing if you could make a drive SATAIII instead of USB. One could design a PCB to connect multibles on one PCB online to have mailed to them for not much money. You could rob make a total capacty of 1TB+ out of only 4 phones. Then perhaps do some kind of RAID 0 array type thing with them inside a 3d printer enclosure all converted to true USB-C. Maybe one day. Anyway good work on the video, I hope this helps. ✌🏽
Thank you for leaving a comment and appreciate the feedback. We’re starting to get busier with repairs now so I have less time to do these creative experiments but I will take your suggestions into consideration for future videos 👍🏼
If the CPU is damaged like in the case of the video, there is no way to recover that data. The data on the storage is encrypted and the key to unlock it is on the CPU. No CPU, No Data …
Thank you so much! You are officially better than Apple own techs because after I reported neither voice-to-text nor Siri worked, they asked me whether Voice Memos worked! But they should have asked me to take a video with the front camera: your video is the only place where I found an explanation of which microphone does what, and I did search for a while. The front microphone on my phone is working but badly: the sound is muffled when I record a video, and that's certainly why voice-to-text and Siri can't pick my voice. The repair you describe is quite a bit beyond my comfort zone but at least I know what should be done. Thanks again.
Hi irefab thanks for the video it's a good one. I have got Wahl sterling 2 plus have had for the best of 8 9 years. Recently I had it on charge for slightly over 2hrs as the battery was flat. After charging it was going to use it and it was sounding like the battery is going to go flat. So what I did put it on charge for another 30mins. Was going to use it again the same problem sounding like the battery to going to die on me. Took of the head cleaned it put it on and I hear the motor winding but not as it should. So I don't if it's the battery or the motor. The motor is rotating but my battery after so much charge...it still comes out like it's going to die on me. Help me out my brother. I dont want a divorce with this trimmer very close to me. Shout back at me kindly. Thanks peace out ✌
Sure, no problem, thank you. In your case I think you definitely need a new batttery 👍🏼 If you have the skills give it a go, it’s not that hard to change one out.
@@irefab thank you for your swift reply much appreciated. Could you kindly share with me the battery code? Also from time to time clean the head by taking it apart and then put it back together. My question how can I...erm...sharpen the blades on the head any suggestions. Thanks. ✌
Apologies, I somehow missed this message, hence the late reply. The battery code is 1.2v NiMH Single Cell (SC) battery and the capacity is 2500mah. Regarding blade sharpening, these are auto sharpening blades. All you have to do is oil them regularly and they will sharpen themselves. There is no other way to sharpen them that I am aware of 👍
Hi irefab...thanks for the video and it's a good one. I have Wahl sterling 2 plus model. Recently I had it on charge for close to 2hrs. After charging was going to use it, and it sounded like it's not been on charge at all like the battery is during even after charging for two hrs....you sugestion..what could be fault. But when I take of the head it winding but as it should. Help me out brother...i have had this for close to 8 9 years and don't to get separated from it. Help me it out. Thanks peace out ✌
Will the initialisation stage wipe out all the memory inside the chip? I have an old iphone 8p with a lot of important pictures that was still inside which i would wish to keep if possible! 😭
Yes it would completely wipe the memory, unfortunately data recovery is not possible this way as the iPhone 8 memory/nand is encrypted. The only way to get data off the chip is to get the phone working again.
No power at the inductor, replace the Sub PBA as referenced in the service manual. You don’t have to remove the old Sub PBA to do this, just take a working one from another phone or buy one from eBay about $3 or £2. Attach it to the main board and test to see if you get 5v at the inductor. If you do problem solved, if not keep following the steps in the service manual to find your faulty component and replace. Hope this helps 👍
As long as it is 1.2v NiMH Single Cell battery then you can put whatever capacity you like and it will work. But make sure you check the dimensions so it will fit in the case 👍
Thanks, the one I use is a no name brand. Try to get one at least 1080p 60fps, that’s the spec on mine also try to get one with Sony sensor, those are the two things to look out for 👍
Hi, thanks for this advanced job. I have LS14, with the same switch problem. I contacted Olympus but they refused to repair it since it is discontinued, although it is an expensive tool. now I turn it on using a USB charger, but unfortunately I can't do your job because I'm visually impaired.
I have an Olympus LS-3. The slide switch is snapped inside after a botched repair. Its not the same as this dictaphone but similar. Does anyone know where I can find another switch I can solder onto the board?
If it’s similar to the LS-11 i was not able to locate a replacement. I think the component for the switch is designed in house and it is a custom part. Meaning it’s not a part that you can get off the shelf and Olympus will not sell them to us. Only other way I can think of is to get hold of a faulty LS-3 and cannibalise the switch off it.
I have 2 or 3 broken m.2 drives. They are 2Tb each and one is a 1Tb drive. I saved them for this purpose because the nand chips and the memory controllers are perfectly good shape. Would it be possible to do this procedure with large nand chips such as 1tb nand chip on each side?
Okay the procedure is slightly different if you want to use them through USB but the principle is the same. Get onto AliExpress and in the search box type in “SS2 M2 NVME CASE”. You will get a whole list of them that will come up and you just choose the type that is compatible with your m.2 sticks. You don’t have to do any soldering and it’s much easier. They usually come with a USB-C cable as well so basically plug and play. Hope this helps 👍
@irefab i will definitely check this out thank you! But the m.2 drives i was referring to are literally broken in half. But fortunately the nand flash chips and the memory controllers are still intact and undamaged. So I was hoping to desolder the chips and solder them onto a usb thumb drive style pcb. I know the protocol is obviously different being switching to usb instead of using nvme pcie lanes. Would it even be possible to solder them onto a small usb pcb and still function? Or is there any schematics for pcb layout for custom diy m.2 drives or usb drives?
@T.Lspitz Sorry for the misunderstanding, if the boards are broken and you know the chips are good the only other way I can think of is to find some m.2 stick that have errors on them and are being sold for spares and repairs for cheap. Then you can swap out the bad chips for your good ones. You will probably need to source the same make and size to avoid any compatibility issues. Other than that I am not aware of any generic boards that are available for what you are trying to achieve. If you figure something out, please do leave a comment here for other’s to find out too 🤲🏻
thank you for this excellent video! I have an Olympus LS-P4, which has a similar power/hold switch. The power switch doesn't work well anymore -- I can 'jump start' the device using the USB plug to give it a charge. It will then run off the AAA battery. But it is frustrating, and after watching your video, I suspect that it could be the same issue with the switch. Only -- here's the rub: the switch sorta works a bit. In that, it can switch the device off, and right after switching it off, it can even switch it on again (within a second of switching off). So it's fiddly. Anyways, thanks again! I need to get my hands on the repair equipment you used and find some time, and then I'll give it a go too.
@Eoin Dubsky thanks for watching the video. Yes it sounds like you have the same issue. Great little recorders and I’m still using mine to this day. If you’re based in the U.K and would like me to have a look at it for you, feel free to email me on iRefab.info@gmail.com and we’ll discuss it from there. Either way hope you get it fixed 👍
Mine doesn’t cut any longer after a few years use. Just painfully catches my hair. Replaced head and battery. Do you think I need to replace the motor?
@manspace8505 I doubt it’s the motor. If it’s catching your hair it could be a couple of things. 1. It could be the contacts are not making a strong connection at the switch leading to less power at the motor which would cause the blade to catch. 2. It could be the blades need oiling, as long as you drop some oil on the blades after each use and let it run for 15 seconds the blades should be fine and will sharpen themselves. If it’s the first issue I would take everything apart and test all the contact points at the switch. Sometimes you have to bend the metal contacts a little by by hand to get them to contact better. The entire inside mechanism is really simple and there are no electronic circuits in there. Just battery, switch, motor and metal contacts. Hope this helps 👍
Hello @Tahsin_Hussain and thank you for watching the video 🤲🏻. This is basically a fun project if you want to learn micro soldering. You get a working USB stick out of it in the end that you basically put together yourself. When people start out learning to micro solder they look for easy projects to practice on and this is one of them. Hope that clears up any confusion 👍
I have around 10 of S7 Edge at home with same problem. These were my child's phone which was broken. Previously I changed the whole main board in one of them and it worked. Can you tell me why this problem occur at the first place. Also, I want to sell these phone for parts. But my worry is if someone can fix it and find any sensitive family photo or video in it. Can you tell me HOW CAN I DESTROY or DELETE ALL PHONES INTERNAL MEMORY DATA from a S7 Edge which does not turn on?
@Tahsin_Hussain to answer your first question the S7 edge is a very old phone now and what happens is the solder balls under the CPU become dry and brittle over time and with heat. Any heavy knocks on the phone and they come out of place and short out the CPU. When this happens the phone essentially becomes a brick. It’s a common problem with the S7 edge and well known about in repair circles. Regarding your second question I don’t know how you can erase data if the CPU is shorted as there is no way to interface the board. If the screens are good just sell them on and throw the boards in the bin or keep them for components/parts. You can also list them on eBay as non working practice boards for people learning to micro solder. Hope this helps 👍
Hello. I followed your video and it was a great help. But my touch screen doesn't work. I did replace the screen a 2nd time with another new screen and had the same result. The new screen had the digitizer preinstalled so I used it. I also replaced the ribbon cable going to the main board after the 2nd screen install. Did I miss something?
Hello @ericberger9335 and thanks for getting in touch. Ok if you have replaced the screen twice and the cable as you mentioned I would say it’s time to get someone to check it over. Possibly a local phone repair shop. There is a possibility that the fault is on the main board itself in which case it will need some more testing and possibly further work. They should be able to tell you if it’s worth repairing or if it’s better to replace and move on. They may also possibly be able to test your old screen if they have an identical tab in the shop and see if the issue lies there. Hope this helps 👍
Mine the stop button is stuck the buttons don't work otherwise everything turns on and looks good just can't control nothing cause the buttons don't work all the rest click as normal but not the stop button this is terrible cause this thing was not cheap this company is wicked
@TruthSeekerAi Sorry to hear about your problem. Maybe you can take it apart and try cleaning the area underneath the buttons with some isopropyl alcohol. As you can imagine these were manufactured around 2011 and overtime dirt/grime even liquid can get into the crevices and jam things up. I would take it all apart and give everything a good clean. Maybe that will sort out your button issue. Hope this helps 👍
I had the same problem with mine. I had a battery leak and the acid leached under the button dome that is on the circuit board beneath the button you actually press. I took mine apart and carefully removed the small metal dome from the circuit board by pulling off the small piece of tape that holds it down. Once removed, I could see corrosion on the board beneath and on the bottom of the dome. This corrosion was built up enough to prevent the "click" feel you normally feel when pressing the button and also prevented the contact from happening which is why the function stopped working (in my case it was the record button) if you gently clean the corrosion from the board to expose clean metal and the bottom of the button and reassemble, it should work again. I was able to reuse the small piece of tape to hold the dome back down. It is tedious to work on but just take your time and it should work. Good luck.
Without access to schematics or a service manual, easiest way for a beginner to fault find is by comparing with a working device. But I do agree with you that sometimes this will not be possible 👍
