My channel is focused on auto maintenance of my personal vehicles and sometimes includes other DIY (Do It Yourself) tips that can be helpful to the RU-vid community. My DIY videos are easy to follow and I get to the point quickly. It is not a video blog or full of useless information so I hope you find it helpful.
Outstanding so very helpful and professional information!! I made notes on my cell phone when I am ready to change all fluids Curious what miles you did your first changes at? Do all 3 fluids at same time of miles? Thanks again for all your outstanding commitment!! My 2023 Ridgeline is at 19,000 miles currently
Thank you for the kind words. I recommend the following maintenance intervals (miles): Oil change & Tire Rotation: 5,000 Rear Differential, Engine Air Filter, Cabin Air Filter: 15,000 Automatic Transmission Fluid & Transfer Case: 30,000 Coolant: 100,000 The rear differential and transfer case fluid are for AWD (all-wheel-drive) models only.
@@PaulNaylor3 I have always enjoyed doing maintenance and mechanical work in all my stuff. Your videos surely inspired me even more to do even later in my life. Thanks for all your You Tubes for us do it yourselfers.
When you are adding the fluid you should notice pretty quickly that it’s dripping. You could wait until that drip slows down to a very slow drip and then put the bolt in.
Wonderful video sir, thanks so much for your insights and sharing the experience with us. You make that look like something I would like to try. I'll check into the attached supply item list and watch this a couple more times before I jump in. I thought the MM code system was designed and engineered to tell when it time for these services yet you stated it's a 30K fluid service on all three components, why it that?
Thank you for the kind words. The 30,000 mile maintenance intervals for the automatic transmission & transaxle fluid are what I practice. I believe it’s also consistent with Honda recommended intervals and these components are so critical to the life of the vehicle that I would rather change them at this interval than wait for the maintenance minder code. This is just my personal preference. For the rear differential I change that every 15,000 miles but once the vehicle reaches 60,000 miles I plan to also go to a 30,000 mile interval on that. The reason for that is that by 60,000 miles it is well broken in and there are hardly any metal shavings on the magnet at that point. Again, this is just my personal preference and I’m sharing with you what I do.
@@PaulNaylor3 I understand now & I totally agree with you. Thanks again so much for everything & having scribbled to your channel I'll get to see more of your videos too. Keep up the great work sir & have a safe & Happy Labor Day!
@@PaulNaylor3 Thank you, but there is another negative wire going to another spot on the vehicle that would stay connected if the cable were left on the post so why would there be a spark?
I have seen it spark so I disconnect it. The reason disconnecting the negative keeps it from sparking is you are no longer receiving energy from the battery.
Hey, I was curious if you ever plan on changing the differential fluid? I also have a mazda cx-5 (2015) with 90,000 miles and was wondering when and if you’d do so
AFTER MAKING THE VIDEO I REALIZED THAT, WHILE THE CERAMIC IS STILL WET, I RECOMMEND WIPING WITH A MICROFIBER TOWEL TO MAKE SURE IT APPLIES EVENLY WITH NO STREAKS.
It’s hard to say exactly because the 1st gallon I used wasn’t full. 1 gallon would come very close to doing the job. You could buy one gallon, do this job, and buy another gallon if needed.
I’m confused if the one male plugs sticks into the RV or camper or generator the other end needs to be a male plug also to stick it into shore power outket how do you do that part wasn’t mentioned on your video
Hi James. I was demonstrating how you can use the RV plug for home power usage. I do not have an RV so I will let someone who does comment and hopefully answer your question.
At the Honda dealer they will say that filter is a non maintenance item. But it's a filter so sooner or later the it will reach its capacity so better to change it imo.
Whenever my dashboard lights would come on it was usually a sign that I needed a new battery. That was a frustration because batteries sometimes didn’t last two years. Every time I changed the battery it ultimately fixed all the warning lights. I also found that they didn’t cause any actual problem; it was just a frustration. You may find some helpful tips in this battery video I did: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4fY32WLWiJk.htmlsi=2_WrVxZEu5VYcJRu
is it better to put the spare in the front or back axle? I read there is a rear differential, but there is also a front transaxle? Normally, if there is a differential, I learned to not put the spare on the axle with the differential on it. I looked through the manuals, and it doesn't indicate front or rear should the spare tire be placed.
This is a good question and the Internet is full of various opinions on this issue. I would say that if you are putting a spare tire on a vehicle it should be for the intended purpose of getting you to the nearest tire place to get your full size tire repaired and put back on your vehicle, and not to leave the spare on for any length of time. If you were going to use the spare to drive a couple of miles I wouldn’t think you would have an issue but that’s just my opinion.
@@PaulNaylor3 thanks. Didn't see the washers in the links before. Where did you buy the fluid? I found it online for a good price but it's $80 shipping
I purchased my ATF, Transaxle, & Rear differential fluid at my local Honda dealer. Their prices are typically very reasonable. I like to stick with Honda fluids for these three maintenance items.
I realize prices change but, just to give you an idea, I paid $31 a quart (need 4) for the transmission fluid, $11 a quart for the rear differential (need 2), and $21 a quart for the transaxle hypoid gear oil (need 1). The transmission fluid is expensive because it takes different fluid than the six-speed that it replaced.
I changed the airfilter and the pcv valve. The air filter was good but I changed it anyway. The pcv was a different story: THAT WAS A ROYAL PAIN AND MUCH MORE AGRAVATING THAN IT SHOULD BE. The wiring harness is impossible to move, the harness is just long enough to reach the connections. The anchor bolt was underneath the wiring harnes and no amount of moving, twisting or removing other components was helpful. I took paper and jammed the 10mm socket on the stem and as I was carefully retracting the bolt it slipped out of the socket and bounced around the engine bay. Where it was could not be determined with either flashlight of mirror on a stick. I then removed most of the air dam, cursing all the time because most of the fasteners are one time use. I got the air dam loosened and felt around, looked with a light and a mirror on a stick, I could not locate the errant bolt. Thinking logically, a 10 mm socket fits an 8mm bolt, I looked through my bolt boxes but nothing could be found. It took about an hour to examine all of the left over bolts but none worked. I then had the bright idea of pounding on the plastic air dam in an effort to dislodge the bolt. Nothing worked. Then, I grabbed a sturdy stick from the brush pile. I vigorously slammed the plastic cover from the bottom and the top. "At last the bolt popped free. I had guessed, correctly, that the bolt had been redesigned because there was no adaptor bushing. Yes, it was heavily modified. I had guessed wrong. The new bolt had a 10mm head, an 8mm body and 6mm threads. Attempting to replace the bolt yielded more frustration. The PCV, once inserted, can be rotated abut 270*, which means it is almost impossible to correctly insert the pcv with the bolt hole centered over the threads. Anoth fit of cursing and I got another mirror on a stick. I could barely see the bolt hole was partially obscured by the flange and that is why the bolt and the socket wrench slipped out of my hand and disappeared again in the engine bay. More pounding on the plastic air dam and the bolt popped free. The socket wrench and the 10mm socket were nowhere visible to me. "This time I used about 10 yards of black tape to firmly attach the bolt, the socket and the extension into one solid unit. This time, it only took about an hour of removing the pcv, and inserting it, checking the alignment with the bolt, repeating until it was good and tight. 4 hours of complete frustration.
Thank you for taking the time and effort into posting this video. I'll make sure to use the Amazon affiliate links as I'm planning to do this process to my 2018 Hyundai Elantra.
It's rather easy, Just did ours Yesterday, Now for the 10th time, At 49.397 miles, 2 liter 6 speed manual 2020 Civic Sport running on Amsoil since just under 200 miles. 36.7 mpg average includes Idle time fuel from 49000 miles of use.
Every RU-vid video I have watched says you do not have to choke when running propane. Then they proceed to have a hard time starting the engine. It's been a while but I seem to remember the instructions said pull the card a couple of times with the coke on when using propane.
Do you think you can do a tear down video of that roedix R9 air duster? I'd like to know how to take it apart for repair or replace the lithium battery for future reference. Would be very much appreciated, sir!
My local Mazda dealer service department does not remove the pan, or replace the filter when they service the transmission. They stated they use a fluid replacement machine to totally replace all the fluid, which is more than comes out by removing the pan.
Ok. The pan and filter change are not done often since they require so much time and effort. Normally you could drain the old fluid and fill with new fluid and not remove the pan and filter. I did this because of the mileage and not knowing if the transmission fluid had ever been changed.
Thanks for a couple of good videos. I just bought a used 2021 CRV and need to do this and the rear diff. I saw your other video on that. Looks like both of these arent too difficult.
