PCV Valve Change for 2016-2025 Honda Pilot, Ridgeline, Passport & Odyssey 

I’ve recently changed pcv on a couple of Toyotas and zero oil consumption now and runs far better. Think these should be maintenance at 60k easy enough and cheap enough on Toyota 10 mins work. Noce vid

Thanks 🙏 I couldn't find where that thing was located.

I am ashamed to say that I have never replaced the pcv on my wife's 2016 EX-L. Almost 200K miles sigh. I don't think it's part of Honda's maintenance minder. Thanks for this video.

Thanks for the video, I have the same Honda. BTW, for less than 50 bucks you can buy a digital video cam recorder and then post your vids in 1080HD.

If you notice the rattle of the new pcv valve was more prominent than the old one. So there could be build up in the old one causing restricted flow

I changed the airfilter and the pcv valve. The air filter was good but I changed it anyway. The pcv was a different story: THAT WAS A ROYAL PAIN AND MUCH MORE AGRAVATING THAN IT SHOULD BE. The wiring harness is impossible to move, the harness is just long enough to reach the connections. The anchor bolt was underneath the wiring harnes and no amount of moving, twisting or removing other components was helpful. I took paper and jammed the 10mm socket on the stem and as I was carefully retracting the bolt it slipped out of the socket and bounced around the engine bay. Where it was could not be determined with either flashlight of mirror on a stick. I then removed most of the air dam, cursing all the time because most of the fasteners are one time use. I got the air dam loosened and felt around, looked with a light and a mirror on a stick, I could not locate the errant bolt. Thinking logically, a 10 mm socket fits an 8mm bolt, I looked through my bolt boxes but nothing could be found. It took about an hour to examine all of the left over bolts but none worked. I then had the bright idea of pounding on the plastic air dam in an effort to dislodge the bolt. Nothing worked. Then, I grabbed a sturdy stick from the brush pile. I vigorously slammed the plastic cover from the bottom and the top. "At last the bolt popped free. I had guessed, correctly, that the bolt had been redesigned because there was no adaptor bushing. Yes, it was heavily modified. I had guessed wrong. The new bolt had a 10mm head, an 8mm body and 6mm threads. Attempting to replace the bolt yielded more frustration. The PCV, once inserted, can be rotated abut 270*, which means it is almost impossible to correctly insert the pcv with the bolt hole centered over the threads. Anoth fit of cursing and I got another mirror on a stick. I could barely see the bolt hole was partially obscured by the flange and that is why the bolt and the socket wrench slipped out of my hand and disappeared again in the engine bay. More pounding on the plastic air dam and the bolt popped free. The socket wrench and the 10mm socket were nowhere visible to me. "This time I used about 10 yards of black tape to firmly attach the bolt, the socket and the extension into one solid unit. This time, it only took about an hour of removing the pcv, and inserting it, checking the alignment with the bolt, repeating until it was good and tight. 4 hours of complete frustration.

I'm guessing also some pistons rings getting a little sticky .Leaning over a engine is fun . Lol 👍

Changing the PCV valve at a shorter interval was a good idea because the plastic is less likely to become brittle causing it to break. The same goes with plastic engine oil dip sticks. One method I use to hold nuts and bolts in a socket is to place a napkin over the opening of the socket and push the nut/bolt into it and tear the excess off.this way it holds secure allowing you to maneuver it in the desired position.

How many kms on this enging and have you disabled the vcm? Thats probably why you are burning oil.