Well spotted, there's a secret weapon in the background, which is something we're still working on. As for the Carve, we're staying with the current Carve sizing for this season, but we hear your request for something between 850 and 650 for the next round ;-)

​@@duotone.wingfoiling Well placed, dear marketing :) thanks for the info! I did several speedruns with a friend and was impressed by the speed for the Glide and Carve.

Weights are online on our website, in the specs box of the Skybrid SLS product page: www.duotonesports.com/de/products/duotone-foilboard-skybrid-sls-2025-42250-3610

Weights are online on our website, in the specs box of the Skybrid SLS product page: www.duotonesports.com/de/products/duotone-foilboard-skybrid-sls-2025-42250-3610

yes, on the smaller sizes, the boys were proning with it, also less experienced riders during the R&D phase - actually a lot easier with the extra length for beginners/intermediates - obviously for advanced riders they'll prefer a more compact shape, but it is for sure possible to use.

indeed there will be a trend back towards longer, narrower shapes, although the wider/shorter and more compact sizes still have a relevance for many people, in both advanced riding for jumping/aggressive waveriding, as well as for absolute beginners, where the narrower shapes are not that easy for learning. But for intermediate/riders who want to just cruise/pump/downwind or not interested in jumping, the Skybrid/midlength shapes make a lot of sense.

If your front foot pressure doesn't stay similar if you change speeds (accelerate), but pushes your front foot up more and more and you have to bring your weight forward the faster you go, then you might want to try decreasing your angle of your stab with the use of a negative shim to keep it more balanced throughout the different speeds you're riding. Some riders prefer to have the "safety" of the front foot pressure building up, as it's usually more controlled at high speeds to have a bit of front foot pressure to push into. Play around to see what's actually faster for you and your level of riding. Hope this helps!

Hi there, not sure why the cutout would have any adverse effect for the foil drive? Our boards have been tested with both small and bigger foils, in a variety of locations, salt water/fresh water and light to super strong winds. Pretty sure there will be a size in there for most people, if you need more advise vs your Sky Free 105, let us know.

Hi Jamie, indeed, the longer and straighter outline does help to get going earlier/touchdowns are a bit smoother and generally you can drop about 10L down from a classic shorter/wider size (generally, this also does depend on your skill/weight obviously). Stronger winds are also no issue with the Skybrid.

great to hear, enjoy it!!

Very much in the same boat 🤩

So, Not for jumping?

What is your weight @dengordo? Me 64kg, currently 75 liters floats easily.

you can jump, but obviously the longer, more straight outline is not as easy in the air as the more compact Sky Styles or Free for example.

​​@@ParaKiteGlidingI'm 82kg and used to use 90L and 65 sinker. With midlength it should be easier to take off even in lighter winds and should be perfect for speed and racing. I'm not really into jumping

Hi there, at your weight currently riding a 95L board as an intermediate, I would estimate you could get away with the 5'8"/85L board - it should get up and go at least as quickly as your Free 5'3", maybe slightly sooner and for sure with less pumping/better at passive "planing" up onto the foil.

You can definitely pump the boards/ride waves while flagging the wing- but for Sup foiling, they may be a bit too narrow for the take offs and paddling - depends on your skill level I suppose?

Hi there, works great in small waves, Finn and Jeffrey Spencer who designed the boards live on Maui and used them in waves regularly during testing.

Low aspect ratio generates less lift, less lift means you can ride faster. It all comes down to how much camber you have built into the profile as well. The Carve has relatively little camber built in, allowing it to cruise at higher speeds. Also the reduced span allows the rider to lean more and to push harder into the foil. It doesn't mean that a higher aspect ratio foil can't be fast! It is just that in our range, the Carve is the faster design.

Until now I thought lower aspect means slower as it has less Efficiency.. The most beginner foils got lower aspect. I am a bit confused. But guess the volume and the thickness also plays a big role?

Hi Stefan, So good to hear your feedback! We've had a lot of similar review from very happy customers 😊. I have never really tried to push the Whizz to the max speed because they aren't designed for that, but I have clocked the 850 up to 26 knots on my GPS watch, which I think is alright and definitely not "slow".

Merci bc ​@BonieuxJerome ! 26nots 😅 is definitely not slow! I really want to share how well the Whizz works in learning how to Downwind even on a Lake! 2days ago a storm passed and the Whizz 1000 would constantly take up to 40km/h😮. (GPS) Thanks for that Foil.

Hi Sylvain, at 76kg, the 7'4" should be a good size, with the inflates you can always choose a bit more volume than the hardboards.

The point which we explain in the video is the commun misconception that using a bigger/more powerful stabiliser will give more lift to the setup. Technically speaking, what the riders feels as "more lift" is primarily the location of the center of pressure which shifts forward when using a bigger stab. The value of the total lift generated by the setup actually decreases if the fuselage is kept at the same angle of attack and if speed is kept the same. Long story short, by putting a bigger stab, you end up with a less efficient setup, which requires you to ride with more angle of attack to generate the same lift as with a smaller stabiliser; by doing so, your center of pressure moves forward, closer to your front foot, and that increased front foot pressure is often what people wrongly describe as "having a more powerful foil".

​@@BonieuxJerome This is a great and precise explanation :D Merci beaucoup ! 👏👏👏👏

A Downwinder Air is hardly a beginner board, this is aimed at riders who have some experience in foiling, they are quite narrow - we have a lot of beginner boards like our Sky Start, Sky Free and Sky Air in the beginner sizes, which suit this type of action. Plus plenty of tips to be found on the Duotone Academy App. Hope this answers your question/comment, feel free to add in case we misunderstood/Google did not translate perfectly?

We are trying to keep it as simple as possible.. It isn't perfectly "correct" and missing drag forces etc but if we had to show the full picture it would be a mess ;)

For sure it is a monster in light wind, but it will feel very locked in roll because of the huge span. If you are happy with going straight, and pretty slow ;) go for it!

You said it yourself, we have tried to keep it simple. We have used Kg instead of newtons because most people don't know what a newton is ;) With bigger stab, and same speed, you will need to increase angle of attack of the fuselage to counter the loss of lift from the bigger stab. For this particular case, we have set the fuselage at 0 deg AoA and the speed at a FIXED speed as well, hence the total lift going down with a bigger stab. In reality, the fuselage wouldn't stay at the same AoA, it would increase so that the force balance themselves out as you say, but this is not the initial condition we set. Hope it clears out the misunderstanding and please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong ;)

​@@BonieuxJeromeThank you for the reply! Yes, this sounds perfekt 👍😃

Yes you can for sure improve the laminar flow by sanding your wings and your mast. I like preparing my race setup by sanding with 600 up to 1200 for the wings and up to 2000 for the mast. Sure you can give a little sand to an old foil once a year or so. Finish the last sanding strokes in the direction of water flow yes.

All front wings will generate more lift as speed increases IF the fuselage stay at exactly the same angle of attack. Remember that we have not only the front wing generating lift upwards but also the stabiliser which is generating an opposite force and thus subtracting lift from the front wing as speed increases. We explain that in more details in our other video "foil basics" ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b_bL2ksu_kA.html

Hi, yes a negative shim could help you in that case, definitely worth trying it and check if it solves the problem you are having. One adverse effect from using a negative shim though, could be that your setup becomes too pitch sensitive. If that is the case, you might want to try a smaller size stabilizer without any shims. Lastly it could also be that the foil you are using is too big and generating too much lift once on a wave. If you give me you exact setup description and your weight, I might be able to have a more accurate tuning solution to your problem.

@@BonieuxJerome Thank you in advance for your availability but I just needed to understand how the shims work in the waves. Sometimes I find myself in the situation I described above and moving the mast is an increasingly delicate operation.

I learned to SUP downwind on the Whizz 1450 and find it works great! Super low stall speed but way more manoeuvrability compared to the Glide 1595. To complement your 1595, I would say the Whizz 1200 or 1000 could be a great option.

Yes, all are compatible except D/Lab foil wings with integrated front half of fuselage, which are only compatible with DLab tail fuselages.

Thanks, happy that it helps you! You're right, it's a fine line between lower drag and being too pitch sensitive when reducing angle on the stabilizer. You can be faster with more angle / a more draggy system because of better control and the ability to push harder. Of course it also depends on your riding level what's best for you personally. Better riders can get away with a more nervous setup and enjoy the extra turning it offers them. Lower level riders will be better off with a more stable system to unlock their best. Cheers, Klaas

Hi Baptiste, it depends what you want to do with the board and which conditions you're mostly riding in. If you mainly want to cruize with the wing on flatwater you should be good with the 7'4". If you want to learn Downwind SUP Foiling, then i'd better steer you towards the 7'10" for the additional stability it offers. Hope this helps!

Hi! Glad you are having fun on your Whizz! Yes we have a 700 which we will add to the range. Coming in Autumn.

@@BonieuxJerome Great ! Thank you for answering.

Great to hear! Glad you like it!

Good point! We should have specified that in the video ;)

Although the Carves haven't been designed for racing as such, you could definitely use them. For reference I can reach 2s Vmax speeds of about 32 knots winging and just shy of 40 knots kitefoiling the Carve 500 dlab in my Mauritian swimming pool 😅. Hope that helps.

@@BonieuxJerome 32 knots on 17mm mast is quite impressive. Any plans on thinner masts closer to 13mm?

I can neither confirm nor deny. You will have to stay tuned for our September product release 😊

Glad you are enjoying this more technical content. We have already implemented a glass layer on our carbon masts, at the 3BS connection, and have now started adding it on our wings as well. All the latest wings should have it already and although it helps to reduce the corrosion on the aluminium fuselage, it doesn't completely prevent it, so we still recommend to disassemble and rinse your fuselage with fresh water after each session.

@BonieuxJerome that's great to hear! I agree, it doesn't prevent corrosion, but it does reduce it noticeably. I've got the new Whizz 1000 wing set, and it sounds like that has a glass layer at the fuselage interface - awesome!

I personally ride it mainly with the 66cm and that is what I would recommend for most riders. Our most advanced team riders are also using the 60cm fuse for maximum manoeuvrability.

Sure 😊 We have such wings in the pipeline. Stay tuned

One is the background, right?

​@@rndlab2not quite, that one is a freerace foil we are working on, but not ready yet 😉

They work amazing! As soon as you flag your wing, the Whizz takes over and makes it super easy to stay on the swell, with tons of manoeuvrability.

Thank you. You did note that I said Wind (surf) foil? Would the Whizz or the Carve be better when using a sail rather than a wing, but still riding swell?

Oops sorry, though you meant wingfoiling. Haven't tried that to be honest, but it could be a little too loose in roll for windsurf foiling?? I would probably recommend the Carve or Glide for that, but if you get a chance to demo one, please let us know how it worked out for you.

17mm thick for the dlab? Crazy thick

Thick is stiff and with stiffness comes a lot of control and this is a design parameter which is very important for us. Secondly, thickness doesn't say much really about the drag generated by the mast. The chord length has a much bigger impact on the drag coefficient, as well as the profile you pick. Picking a thicker section allows us to make a hollow mast which is very light, our 82cm dlab mast is only 1.54kg We feel that we have hit a very good stiffness to weight ratio with that 17mm profile. We definitely aren't excluding designing thinner masts in the future, but they will for sure be heavier if we do, as we will need to pack them with more carbon fibre to achieve a similar stiffness.

@@BonieuxJerome love the comment Jerome, thanks for sharing. It’s interesting that I keep hearing foil designers saying thickness has a bigger effect on drag than cord length.

Good point, we'll try to integrate that, thanks for the feedback.

Thanks for the feedback, we'll see if we can integrate that!