Yes, the truth is not an advertising video, you are publishing a great and true short story!! I ordered such a 4-channel XK A800, but now I know that such a plane is not for beginners. I can fly 2-channel planes, and with the best 3-channel beginner plane Ranger 600 I can fly almost like the first motor plane pilot in the world, like one of the American Wright brothers, hahahaha. Okay, I can also fly turns and had only 3 crashes, that's the difference. The white colored 3-channel Ranger 600 is very docile in the air. Before, I tried some so-called beginner planes, but had no chance to fly normally. Well, my first beloved bird (3-channel Ranger 600) cannot break due to the low weight and secured propeller on the back, and the physical balance in the air is great due to the low center of gravity under the wings, which have a bit of a bird's V shape. But there is also a 4-channel Ranger 600. This thing has a dark color, unlike the white 3-channel Ranger 600. And 4 channels is the next level after the 3-channel plane. Still, it is not easy to fly it without the help of an instructor. I ordered a special computer program with a controller, an RC flight simulation. For me, this is the best way to learn RC flying. I forgot to say that there is another name for this 3-channel plane I was talking about: Modster Easy Trainer 600, if I remember correctly, the same bird with a different name. BTW I'm 65 years old and a disabled driver of a power wheelchair - it means: If I can learn to fly, then everybody is able to do it
@@neonuser456 yep they are tricky things to master, at least this thing has a gyro which makes it so much easier to fly, it's a handful when you switch the gyro off though 😂
@@TheAndyMaan I think I should get a gyro as its a twin EDF airliner, the crashes ripped both EDFs and the nose gear. A pain to see a beautiful plane destroyed on its second day but it eventually flew well. I repaired it (although a bit scuffed) the plane will fly once again.
Thanks, I know it's easy to blame the toy rather than myself but something felt off about it as soon as I let go of it. I was trying to gain altitude with it and it just didn't seem to respond properly. I've still got it and fly it occasionally though
I just got my Lectric XP 3.0 with the “Elite” head light. Love the bike, but the headlight power, beam pattern and mounting is just awful, awful, awful. It’s astonishing to me that here you have a tiny, fantastic little self-contained bike headlight for almost the same price as the factory-specced weakling that has a huge 48V, 14ah battery at its disposal…and the 1700 even comes in white to match my bike!
done same thing just not on cam and also had one leg of the training gear fall off could not land with out crashing now trying with out and doing ok so far
Yes this wasnt the first time I'd done it either, just happened to catch it on camera this time. If I had a bit more confidence I'd try it without but I'm pretty sure my hefty landings would have broken the skids 😂
Thank for commenting, the Tudor is a lovely watch too, I remember trying on the 36 when it first came out in black. Theres not a lot in it, the rolex just has a nicer overall aesthetic in my opinion, I'm a sucker for that sunburst blue dial. I hope you get yours soon and wear it with pride 👍
Hello, could I know what is the memory size of a 1 minute video at 1080p? it seems your camera has the same defect as the toguard h80, 2 hertz beat in videos, probably caused by bad software compression
Do you still own this watch? I have the same watch too and it fits my wrist similar to yours. I have considered selling it multiple times and buy a no date sub instead, but I just can't do it! I have a strong feeling I will regret selling it. This watch is seriously underrated and the dial is definitely sexy af 👌🏻👌🏻
Yep I've still got it, it's a watch I will never sell. As nice as subs are I dont think I would really get any more enjoyment from it and think I'd be a bit underwhelmed by one if I had it. I'd rather get a cheaper but still quality dive watch to compliment it rather than having one or the other. I'm a big fan of colourful sunburst dials so some of the latest releases by seiko have my interest, especially now they are making them in smaller sizes
And Andy!! Don't be put off by crashing, you wouldn't believe how many times I crashed, blade strikes, tipping over and all the other crashes you can think of, it's all in the set up everything level and square even the main blades and tail blades are supposed to be balanced!! It's an immense task!! But when you get it right and you see the Heli hovering you get a real sense of achievement!! I built all my Helicopters ba one from kits, I built my Hirobo Shuttle +2, My Trex 450,500 and 600 all from millions of parts, but they all flew the only one that didn't fly very well was a Trex 450 Dfc that I bought as a ready to fly!! I had nothing but trouble with that one it was sold to me as a beginner Helicopter but was nothing of the sort, so Andy keep plugging away and one day soon you will be flying a collective pitch Heli around the skies!! Feel free to message me anytime and I'll always do my best to help👍😄
Aww damm!! It looked much better to me, was it drifting to the left? You was up hovering much better, you always have to work hard to keep the central but you have to trim that drift out or re-check your swash plate!! Have you got a swash plate leveling tool? That's the way to do it!! You'r correct about the battery when you hold the heli by the blade grips move the battery until it balances, yes landing is very difficult but the whole exercise is about control!! Just the smallest amount of inputs on the sticks, don't be afraid to reduce those rates again for hovering, once you've mastered that you can increase the rates when your flying around👍😄
I posted two video links of me flying the Trex 500!! The first is the maiden flight in August 2015 the second is in March 2016!! You can see that in 8 months I hadn't improved much at all, but what's even more surprising!! is at that stage of the maiden flight I had been dabbling with Helicopters for a few years and practicing on a simulator as well, it really is an immense task and I wanted you to see the work that's involved, don't get despondent, don't give up I can see by your hovering today you've got the control that's needed and the correct attitude!! Because if you didn't you would have just shot up in the air and crashed!! Keep plugging away you'll get there👍😄
I've got a bad hip at the moment in a lot of pain so not sleeping very well!! So time to think and it crossed my mind that in your new radio double check the Expo because in Futaba if you dialed in +Expo that would make youre stick reactions faster you would need -Expo to soften your stick movents but on Spektrum +Expo softens your stick inputs and -Expo speeds them up double check on your system just!! in case it's like Futaba👍
I've just watched the video!! I think the Heli looked and sounded much smoother!! What sort of tail gyro you using? To give yourself more of a chance you need to get a tail hold gyro!! You can get them quite cheap on ebay, what they do is lock the tail in a position so your not constantly correcting the tail!! I know its frustrating to learn to fly but remember Small helicopters are very twitchy Training legs cause wobble in small helie's Because when you're learning you tend to keep the Helicopter low your not getting away from ground affect which is the turbulence caused by the blades!! That's why when you see people landing the Heli always looks a bit more unstable Lastly don't give up you haven't flown for a while, I used to be a driving instructor!! Learning to drive a car is a piece of cake compared to flying a model helicopter, you got to practice hovering till your good then practice some more Lol it took me months to be confident at hovering it didn't happen over night, let me know what your control rates are and how much expo your using because to give you some idea my cyclic control rates on my radio are low like 30-40% which also limits the movement of your swash plate!! You'll get there mate keep going if it was easy there would be 1000's of people on RU-vid posting model Helicopter videos!! But there's not they are few and far between because that's how hard a task it is!! You could cheat and get a Helicopter with a 6 axis gyro but the way your learning is the best way because your developing all the basic skills you need that's how I learnt the very same way👍😄
Hi Ian, thanks for watching again. The gyro is the stock Esky head holding gyro, I need to play around with the settings a bit more, I dont seem to be able to switch between head hold and rate mode. I had a look at that spartan quark you mentioned and I think I will get one as they are pretty cheap. They also look very small and light so should be fine on that little helicopter. I'm pretty sure the expo is set right, I set about +30 you can see the curve is flatter horizontally in the middle. The rates I set at 70% which I think is still too much judging by how sensitive it still was. I think I might try upping the head speed a bit too and lower the maximum pitch as it was taking off at just over half stick so it doesn't need much pitch to lift, the higher head speed might make it more stable too as I do remember the higher head speed helping last time. I do need a lot of practice for sure, in that last video i made if it i flew it a couple more times after that and felt like i was starting to get the feel of it a bit more, I did try it without the training gear and it was a lot more stable for not having the weight under it. I'll try turning the rates down more to 50% perhaps and playing around with the gyro. I just had a bed feeling last night that if I kept going it was going to be in pieces again haha, plus there was a thunderstorm starting to head over my way and I could see the flashes of lightning getting closer which was a little unnerving.
Ok 70% no wonder its twitchy Lol I just checked my Dual rates and expo for my Trex 450 my low rates for cyclic is 30% with 30% Expo my tail is 60% my high rates are 10% higher all around, I'm glad your expo is same as mine as with the Gyro I guess you've put it on a 2 position switch!! So up would be hold mode and down rate mode!! I've just checked the settings for my Gyro a setting of -30 is your rate mode and +30 is your heading hold!! These should be your start figures, normally when you switch between the 2 modes you should have an led on the gyro that changes colour!! If you then put the heli in heading mode and move the rudder stick the tail rotor blades should move and stay put until you change it yourself!! In rate mode the tail rotors will always move back to neutral. So assuming then that you have the 2 modes set up you can adjust the figure for heading mold if the helie's tail doesn't hold and drifts increase from30% up gently until it holds, if however the tail shakes from side to side but still holds you need to reduce from 30% down until the tail stops shaking or twitching, you might already know this but I know it took me a couple of years to figure the tail Gyro out also keep in mind that the settings that work one day say a sunny day might not work as well on a cold or damp day but the figures never change that much just a couple of %. The Spartan Quark works exactly the same as this but is a brilliant Gyro!! That's what I have in my Trex 500 and 600 and they perform well, Can you let me know if you get the gyro switching between the 2 modes please, one you get the heading hold sorted that will make a big difference as you won't be fighting the tail all the time👍😄
Ian Wow ok I hadn’t realised I might need to go that low haha, that will probably explain it then, I’ll set it up a lot lower now and try again. With the gyro I can’t seem to assign a switch so I can change modes, I need to play around with it a bit more and see if I can get a good setting, it was twitching on the initial setting of 35 it put it up to 40 and it was twitching a lot more so I turned it down to about 25 and that’s when the tail was drifting a lot. Again I didn’t realise at the time I should make much smaller adjustments, I’ll try it one or two at a time rather than 10. All part of the learning curve though, I’ll probably go out again shortly as the wind is fairly low this morning and I want to make the most of it as it’s been gusty for the last couple of weeks
Normally the gyro goes on the flap switch you need to try and get it on heading hold!! I've never been able to fly on rate mode its to difficult!! You constantly have to fight the tail, I'm sure if you have a good look at the radio settings you'll be able to get heading hold!! Yes adjust it by small increments👍😄
Trust me with a little bit of work on your Esky and the right settings you could have it flying like that!! Your coordination is great turning right and left👍 off the top of your head can you remember what you set the pitch of your blades at? Great flying well done😄🚁
Thanks Ian, this is a very stable heli though, it's only got flybar weights rather than paddles and theres something else about the head setup that makes it a lot more tame to fly. It will just self level if you let go of the right stick unlike the usual setups. Is is good for practicing coordination though, I've got the packs charged up again so I'll go out again today hopefully and try again, maybe some right rate too as it's very tame on low. I cant remember what the pitch is set at to be honest, I had it pretty low I think so I could have a higher head speed so it was a bit more stable when trying to hover. I've been learning to hover in the standard mode so the pitch increases with the throttle, not sure if I should be in idle up? Never switched over to that though so I'm a bit nervous about flicking the switch and having it shoot up or down as the pitch changes over.
Ian Ok cool, as you can probably tell I still have a lot to learn. I’ll watch those videos you sent me after I’ve done some chores around the house to keep the Mrs happy 👍
You can do it If you set the Heli up correctly and follow Gorge in the video and get the head set up correctly and then your throttle and pitch curves it will be so much more controllable!! Any issues just give me a message and I'll gladly help if I can👍😄
Is that collective pitch? Did you buy it rtf or did you build it yourself? You were doing great, I practiced for weeks without much success!! And then I watched a video on youtube about throttle and pitch curves for a beginner, i took the plunge and changed my settings and Bam!! It was like someone had waved a magic wand, it transformed how the Heli felt and I could hover it so easy!! If your interested I could send you a link to that video!! Let me know and I'll find it for you it was made a few years ago now👍😄
Ian Hi Ian, firstly thanks for taking the time to check out my videos, bit of a random collection of videos really haha. Yes it’s a collective pitch, I bought it second hand off my old boss who had crashed it straight after putting the battery in so he decided it wasn’t for him (from what he said about it I think it was in idle up 😆) I didn’t realise at the time got much he’d managed to bend on it so before I could even think of using it I had a pretty steep learning curve of how to replace a load of parts. New main shaft, feathering shaft, main gear, blades and undercarriage. Then of course the process of setting blade pitch, balancing blades and tracking. I think it would have been cheaper and easier to actually buy it brand new by the time I’d bought the spares 😂 well at least I learnt how to replace most of the parts which I have broken myself since then anyway. This video is after several attempts over the years normally ending in a crash and a break from flying for a few months, it was the first time I had tried filming myself and was certainly my most successful attempt. It’s quite an old model now I think I’ve had it for around 9 years or so, luckily there still seems to be spares around and I’ve got a few in stock anyway. I’ve always flown on the stock radio so no adjustments are available for pitch curves and such, it is something I’m strongly considering buying this time around though as it is so twitchy/sensitive to stick inputs that it would really help to be able to dull it down a little. If you could send that link it would be amazing, it’s something I think would be very helpful. I’ve also got a big old nitro heli I got bought for my birthday when I was about 12, I’m not entirely sure what my dad was thinking with that one. I never had the confidence to try that one out but I would love to get it in the air one day. I’m just very aware that it could do some serious harm if I loose control of it and I’d never be able to fix it as spares are pretty much non existent. Thank you
First thing first Lol believe it or not the bigger the Heli the easier it is to fly!! But because of the big rota blades and noise they are intimidating!! When I moved up from a 450 Trex to a 500 I couldn't believe how much more stable it was in a hover!! Like you I've got no interest in 3d in fact I hate it, with the Esky they are so small and twitchy they are not really for beginners despite what they tell you at the model shop. It's an expensive hobby but you can get some really good second hand items on ebay, unless like me you like having new stuff, you do need a good computer radio!! I'm a spektrum man and don't use anything else!! I've tried other makes like Lemon and Futaba but have had best results with Spektrum, something like a DX6e would be the ideal choice having all the setting for setting up a Heli, for your Esky you would also need a 6 channel receiver and a good tail gyro with rate and tail hold!! Something like a Spartan Quark!! I know it sounds like a vegetarian meal Lol but it's not it's a brilliant gyro which will hold the tail solid in a hover giving your left thumb one thing less to do!! With a small heli you need to adjust the rates and use +expo which will soften your inputs around centre stick, this cuts down on over correction which is a big problem when your learning!! Of course you could get the Blade 230s but don't get the ready to fly as the DXe radio that comes with it is not a computer radio!! Instead go for the Bnfb which doesn't come with a radio but the DX6e would be ideal, intact you can load the settings from Horizon Hobby on to SD card and load it straight on to the radio, I think either option!! Your Heli with a good radio and gyro or the Blade would give you more chance of succeeding!! I'm going to give you 2 links the first is a series on how to set up a collective pitch flybar Heli, George really knows his stuff and i followed him to the letter, the second link is the throttle and pitch curve settings!! Again i will say this transformed my Heli and flying. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4Jn5F2Nh-2A.html
Hello, I mounted it around chest height so 4-5ft from the ground I put some sticks behind the top of the camera to make it point downwards, hope that helps.
@@anthonypipia6990 I would have thought so yes, it wears larger than it is in my opinion, my alpinist which has a larger case wears similar on the wrist
I have a 36mm blue dial (3/6/9) Oyster Perpetual hommage watch. It is a 1-1 copy without the Rolex name and i got it to test if the smaller 36mm would fit my wrist and look okay on my close to 7,5" wrist BEFORE I went away and payed for the real thing, and that little 36mm fits perfect. It is the ONLY 36mm watch that looks okay on my wrist and not to small like all other 36mm watches. I did do a wrist check with a real Rolex 36mm Oyster Perpetual but WITHOUT the 3/6/9 and that looked to small. I guess the 3/6/9 numerals makes a big difference and lets the dial look much bigger and more like a 38mm watch.
Yes there is something about it that makes it wear slightly larger than it is, it’s got a fairly chunky case anyways be fair so wears very similarly to my sarb017 which is 38.5mm. I didn’t really try many of the other 36mm ones, in fact I didn’t even get to try this watch before I bought it to be honest as it was a gift from my amazing wife on our wedding day so the first time I actually saw this model was when I put it on. It was between this Rolex and the Omega Aqua Terra Skyfall with the beautiful blue teak dial (horizontal lines), I would have been happy either way to be honest but the Rolex is definitely a much slimmer watch though and hugs my skinny wrist fat better, the Omega is and felt taller when I tried it on, it has got a beautiful movement that you can adore through the case back though.
Thank you, yes it is indeed a perfect size, I did try the 34mm which I felt was a little small at the time, not a massive difference though, I also tried the 39 and that felt too big and I didn't really like the dial layout with the double battons at 3,6 and 9. I do with they had done the purple grape colour at 36mm with this dial though. That was my favourite colour out of the ones I tried.
TheAndyMaan I have 7.3" wrist (18,5cm) and did try out the OP 36mm (Silver dial, no 3-6-9 dial) at the AD, but it looked a bit small and i think maybe the 39mm Explorer will fit better. I do want one with the 3-6-9 dial and maybe its just me, but i think that the OP 3-6-9 blue dial looks a little big larger then the OP without the 3-6-9 dial.
Corey Harmer I don’t really know to be perfectly honest with you, this was a friend of mines, he got it from a car boot sale (in the U.K.) for about £20 I think, it’s pretty old but still a lot less than $100. I imagine you can get much better boats now for that kind of money. Hope this helps
Thanks for the comment, the lume is ok... if I charge it up with a torch or something it's pretty bright for a few minutes then dulls down and is readable in the dark for a few hours. I'm probably not the best judge of this as I have only got one other watch to compare it to. The lume isn't very big so it's not going to glow like a dive watch but I'd say it's decent enough for the type of watch it is. I like that the numerals are also lumed so it's quite easy to read when it is glowing rather than trying to figure out where 12 is. Hope that helps a little. Maybe I'll make a short video comparing the lume to my sieko sarb.
I fell in love with this watch more than a year ago and last Oct. 6 I finally pulled the trigger. Perfect on my wrist. Your video captured the beauty of this simple but very elegant timepiece.
@@josecarlos11 I strongly think the blue has more personality to it and very much classy. Let me tell you, the dial takes on different hues depending on the amount of light. Dramatic and stunning.
I totally agree with you about the personality. But I find the steel dial more of a stealth look which I appreciate. Thanks for getting back to me it will definitely help me make a decision @@nakapaa
josecarlos11 Sorry for the slow response to this, as Roy says I’d personally pick the blue, I feel that silver dials get a bit washed out on an already mainly silver watch. I’ve not seen that particular dial in person so I can’t say what shade it is compared to the blue but I do like some of the darker grey anthracite dials as they seem to give off some lovely different tones. The blue can go from being a real deep colour in the shade to being vibrant and bright in sunlight. The red grape dial is another stunning colour too, if they made it with the numerals rather than the batons I probably would have picked that to be fair.
Glenn Buvens Thank you they are beautiful watches, the only other thing I would have liked from it is to have a display case back, you pay all that money to have this refined Rolex movement but you never get to see it which is a bit of a shame. Luckily they are pretty readily available so no ridiculous waiting lists like there are for their sports models. The purple grape dial is beautiful too, I’m undecided on which colour I prefer but ultimately I preferred having the numerals over the double baton style markers. Hope you manage to get yous and enjoy it as much as I do.
I prefer the Rolex, I know it’s the obvious answer but it really is a better watch all round, the Seiko is an amazing watch for what they cost but handling them you can tell the difference. Is it worth the massive price difference? (Seiko £240 vs Rolex £3850) probably not in the grand scheme of things. I prefer bracelets personally and the oyster bracelet on the Rolex is truly lovely. I would be interested to try a strapcode/miltat on the Seiko to see if that’s transforms it, from what I’ve seen of them the end links extend past the lugs a bit though, which will make it wear larger. The timekeeping on my Seiko is fairly good when on wrist but a bit inconsistent then resting somewhere. You can see in the video it’s running a couple of seconds slower already and I’d only set the time on both of them a couple of hours before. It was gaining around 5-10 seconds a day when I first got it then slowed being around 3 seconds, which I was very happy with at the time. Now if left resting it can loose around 15 seconds a day which is a shame, in comparison the Rolex gains around 1 seconds a day consistently. Sorry for the long winded reply, if you’d like to know anything else though just let me know
Awesome, I don't know if you ride over that way or not, we had been riding straight past it until a group of guys we bumped into showed us a load of trails over there
I normally ride past it on the fire road up the hill, and then out the gate. Thank you for having the concrete blocks in shot at the start, it's the only way I figured out where this is! Does it spit you out onto any other trails?
