Congratulations on your Kolibri. It is always great if one finds the one machine that fits him really well. However, did you ever got your hands on an early Gossen Tippa from around 1950? Quite a few people consider them even superior to the Groma Kalibri, at least here in Germany. They are as flat as the Kolibris, if not even more flat. Superb machines also.
That is a nice example of this model, it seems to work better than other Kolibris in fact. Nice showcase for it. Thanks! Re trade with countries of the Eastern Block, Canada had no import restrictions, and many typewriters were imported from communist countries, and might have later ended up in the US directly or indirectly. Daniel
I'm a big fan of the Groma Kolibri, I am fortunate to have two. One works pretty well after some shipping damage repairs, the other is still very damaged with over 20 identified different issues. They are difficult to work on, see other youtube videos on this - getting them back into the shell takes four hands. They are also missing a bi-chrome setting, which might be a deal breaker for some. Most have some damage on the ribbon cover from the return lever scraping if bent down. But overall I'd say that if you find a working Kolibri for a decent price, buy it. They are a premium product in a small package, and the two tones some of them have are very fetching. I think I like the Erika 5 more than the Kolibri tho, but that might just be me. However, when I recently went overseas I took neither! Instead, the Olympia SF is what came with me. If I want to chuck a machine in the boot of a car for a quick local trip, a Hermes baby might be the thing I grab, because the cover is so sturdy. So, what does that say? I have no idea! There are a lot of nice machines, I suppose? I'm shocked you sold your Erika M, that would be a big case of sellers remorse for me. I'm still looking for one of those.....
This is a beautiful machine. I love the ultra portables because I can take it on the bus. I haven't seen one of these in the wild but would snap it up if I did. i love these videos by the way. I know you say you don't know what you're doing going in but they turn out brilliant. keep up the good work.
On the subject of solder alloys, it may not be relevant to typewriter repair (I'm an electronics guy) but 60/40 has a small 'plastic' phase between being solid and liquid, where you can move it around, but it's not truly liquid. The 63/37 stuff is eutectic and has a sudden transition from solid to liquid and back again, with no "give" in between. In a usage where the work is constrained by a jig, it probably makes no difference, but I guess it's possible that the eutectic solder could be a bit less forgiving, due to its "all or nothing" behaviour around the melting point.
LOL. Lucas, you'll like this one. I recently received my red/black ribbon on olivetti spools and noticed a knot in the line. Took me a half hour to get it out then realizing it needed to be there - DOH! I wonder if it wouldn't hurt to place a disclaimer on your packing bag/label with a notice that the knot is there instead of a ribbon reverse grommet for idiots like me.. CHEERS!
It is listed under FAQ on the order page, and a couple other spots I think? I'll make it more prominent. Keeps the cost as low as possible so I don't have to factor in more parts/tools cost
Very helpful tutorial. Thank you for the helpful angles to see everything. I need to remove the lower rail on a model 10 and can’t find anything online for the 10. Do you have any resources to suggest?
Off topic, but in the future could you make a dedicated "basic typewriter maintenance" video? Like "Hey you're a new owner, your typewriter works fine but here are some things you should check\do over some time" For example parts that you should clean and how\with what\how regularly; are there any parts that needs oiling, etc.
Hi Lucas, once again you had my interest and attention, I'd like to pass to you a technique that was shown to me way back in the 1950's No jig required, Type a row o HHhhh or MMMmm remove the type bar using a follow through segment wire, remove the old solder from the type bar, remove the old solder from the type (slug) with your oldering lamp. hold the type (slug) in the lamp flame and hea it gently. with your maulers or pliers gently close the cheeks of the slug until the sluig is firm on the bar. replace the bar in the segment. raise the bar to the paper using yuor thumb and press it gently against the paper and the segment anvil, Your thumb must be on the bar directly in inline with the anvil. using a probe move the slug until it aligns with the character you have typed in both upper and lowercase. Remove the typebar, dab a little fluid flux on between the slug and the type bar, apply heat, dab the solder. replace the bar after cleaning. It's very quick , very easy after a little practise,,, cheers
Im coming up on a decision between this, a SC Sterling 50s model, or a SC Skywriter.. I love the lettera 22 and studio 44, is this as good as those? I know some of those smith corona have a great reputation. No using for decor, actually writing on them, but I REALLY love the look of these.
I still miss my red IBM Selectric I with an early Finnish keyboard layout. For instance the number 1 had to be typed as a small letter L. If I remember correctly there was no number zero either, one had to type a capital letter O instead. Finnish letters Ä and Ö were on a completely different places than on any modern keyboard. Anyhow it has been the best keyboard I have used in 35 years.
I just rescued one of these from an e-waste trash pile, mine is the very same color, but a Typestar 5, thankfully it was in its own case, I loaded it with D batteries and it seems to work just fine. It had a cartridge in it and an unopened cartridge in the case. I love the look, the design and function of it and would love to start writing books by it. But, it seems the feed has a bit of a problem. It doesn’t seem to be strong enough to feed the paper evenly, it always catches and pulls left. I find when I press on the external gearing of a tiny geared stepper motor, it seems to feed really well. If you can, can this be the problem and could it be fixed? I am a tinkerer, have various motors of various sizes and have my own machine shop. Can you help/advise on this problem and a possible fix?
Great video and typewriter, and Im happy to see you uploading again, I hate too sound critical as I love your videos, I was wondering if a fluid tripod head would be useful to you, for those panning shots (left to right & vis versa). They give a much much smoother glide, instead of your traditional tripod heads which grab every few movements. They aren't that expensive and can be just bought as a head instead of a whole new tripod.
I didn't know what they were called! I'd love to get one, panning is an immense pain :( I'll have to wait and see how finances "pan" out (see what I did there?). Thanks for the recommendation! I always appreciate it
I have a wide carriage Royal 10. It's not as pretty as yours, but man is she a smooth operator. I love Royal standards. Also, typewriter's typing is my ASMR. Coupled with the BGM, I could listen to that for hours. Someone should put out an entire album like that....
