Hi Lucas, once again you had my interest and attention, I'd like to pass to you a technique that was shown to me way back in the 1950's No jig required, Type a row o HHhhh or MMMmm remove the type bar using a follow through segment wire, remove the old solder from the type bar, remove the old solder from the type (slug) with your oldering lamp. hold the type (slug) in the lamp flame and hea it gently. with your maulers or pliers gently close the cheeks of the slug until the sluig is firm on the bar. replace the bar in the segment. raise the bar to the paper using yuor thumb and press it gently against the paper and the segment anvil, Your thumb must be on the bar directly in inline with the anvil. using a probe move the slug until it aligns with the character you have typed in both upper and lowercase. Remove the typebar, dab a little fluid flux on between the slug and the type bar, apply heat, dab the solder. replace the bar after cleaning. It's very quick , very easy after a little practise,,, cheers
Off topic, but in the future could you make a dedicated "basic typewriter maintenance" video? Like "Hey you're a new owner, your typewriter works fine but here are some things you should check\do over some time" For example parts that you should clean and how\with what\how regularly; are there any parts that needs oiling, etc.
On the subject of solder alloys, it may not be relevant to typewriter repair (I'm an electronics guy) but 60/40 has a small 'plastic' phase between being solid and liquid, where you can move it around, but it's not truly liquid. The 63/37 stuff is eutectic and has a sudden transition from solid to liquid and back again, with no "give" in between. In a usage where the work is constrained by a jig, it probably makes no difference, but I guess it's possible that the eutectic solder could be a bit less forgiving, due to its "all or nothing" behaviour around the melting point.
