Home machine shop, live steam locomotive building, Allen Mogul 2-6-0. Fixing broken things, create useful projects for the home and workshop. See my playlists for several projects including a Gingery Metal Shaper, a Geo. H. Thomas Universal Pillar Tool and a Quorn Tool and Cutter Grinder. Currently working on a 3.5” gauge LBSC live steam locomotive called the Tich.
Hi MM52.. say, do you remember the symptoms of your bad thermister? I just replaced my element and the 2 thermal switches on the element housing but my dryer (same model as yours) is still getting too hot, sooo.. I'm thinking Thermisters (or control board} now. TIA :-)
Hi, enjoying the build, I seem to a bit dumb trying to get my head around your 'quartering' Jig....if I have understood the design, the centre of the axle forms the fixing of radial lines one vertical, one horizontal so 90 degrees apart, I get that, BUT when you put the axle in the jig and position the short crank pins against the jig, you are touching the circumference not the centre of the crank, so I can't see how you get the 90 degree timings, the rotation is 90 degrees minus the crank thickness measurement which depending on the crank throw around 10 degrees short of 90, I know this jig works...I just can't get my head around it at present. If no crank pin was present, then yes you could use the jig to scribe a line on both wheels 90 degrees apart, but if the crank is fitted it seems to me that an allowance has to be taken for the crank pin diameter. Any clarification you can give would put me at ease...Thanks
@@anthonyashgrove2908 Hi Anthony, I do understand the confusion and it took me a while to make sure the jig would work correctly. The key factor is that the jig holds the axle centers, and the little shelves that support the crank pins are 90 apart from each other. If the axle was supported on its circumference (like the jig Kozo shows on page 177 of his book), you would have to account for the crank pin thickness. Hope that helps. I showed the jig in video #2 of the series, but really didn’t do a good job describing it and its function. I appreciate your question and wish you luck with your projects. Thanks, Bill.
Thanks for having patience with me, I think now finally I have got my head around 'How the Quartering Jig Works' The bit that 'passed over' me was the two 'L' shaped sides, in my mind I had them facing exactly the same way, hence my questioning on how you could compensate for the radius of the crank pin.....'Penny finally dropped' the 'L' shaped sides are mounted facing in the opposite directions, so now the offset created from the crank radius is applied to both wheels in the same direction so the angular spacing will remain at 90 degrees no matter on the crank dia 'phew' got it
@@anthonyashgrove2908 yes, that is a great point, Anthony. In fact I marked my jig one the right side to say “right hand lead” so next time I use it I’ll be consistent. Thanks again for watching and asking!
Thanks for the great video! - have the same model & color - still going strong. Would you happen to remember if they thermistor(s) that you replaced can be accessed by just removing the front panel of the dryer without removing the top & drum? Thanks!
@@richardb7999 thanks, it’s been a while but I think I just removed the front panel. Believe the top part had to be raised to access the front panel bolts. Good luck!
@@Rustinox Thank you so much. Every time i use the Pillar Tool I remember how you said I would like the sewing machine motor, and you were correct! 👍 I appreciate your feedback a great deal!
Very helpful video and a super great tip with the boards and nails! I need help with a question about paint color: How did you get your Benjamin Moore cabinet paint tinted with a Sherwin-Williams color? Thank you!
Thanks for watching and asking, I appreciate it. The color match was easy, I just took a little sample color card with me and they matched it perfectly. That’s the beauty of dealing with a reputable local store, they do that all the time and are very professional. Thanks again!
@@MyHeap Thanks, Joe. Not sure how much it weighs, guess about 10 lbs now, maybe less. I’ll weigh it when I get the project finished (if I remember, lol). Bill
Hi Bill. I really like the new torch. Can you share a link? It is pretty crowded in the smoke box, but I do love watching you build it. Thank you for sharing! Joe
I've never seen these valves before. Were these used on full size or a novel design? I'm just about to make some 5"-gauge valves for a loco I'm building.
@@chiefauditor1683 thanks for watching and asking. I am pretty sure the quick start valve design has been around for a while. The ones I made were designed by my friend and mentor, Fred V. If I can find a drawing in a book I will let you know. Bill.
@@liborrez4252 yes, I will do a video on it. I plan to finish the Tich locomotive project first. It may be a while before I get to work on the lathe apron. Thanks for watching and asking!
Great progress Bill interesting use of seam sealer 😀 when I do my Britannia tender tank I’m going to assemble with solder “paint” between the parts and then heat up. Hoping that will work to make it watertight.
Love the project and the way you approach things, I noticed one thing we do the same, we use Altoids boxes, I use them all over my shop. Keep up the good work and sharing I’m a big fan from Oregon.
Lids look great Bill love the tiny hinges 😀 if possible allow removal of the pump for servicing. I’ve soldered studs to the pump with nuts on the outside in the past. Makes removal from tender easy. Not sure if that’s possible with such a small tank.
Interesting, entertaining and inspiring playlist (already seen parts 1 and 2 and subscription to your channel), perfect complement to Geo. H. Thomas book and shared experiences from Bruno Müller, David Haythornthwaite or Duncan Munro to cite a few. One thing I 've not captured in part 1 video (English is not my mother tongue!) is the name of the Canadian supplyer for the cast iron blanks. Could you share their name again ? Many thanks. Voilà.
@@peirossmallhomemachineshop5364 thanks so much for watching and your kind comments! The supplier is Martin Model and Pattern. Here’s a link to their website pages about the Pillar Tool, both long and regular arm lengths - www.martinmodel.com/search?q=Pillar+tool
I’d recommend using the gear and chain set up that Dave Gingery designed. You can get the book off eBay pretty cheap if you need one. I used a big gear that I salvaged from another machine. It works ok, but I had to go to an extra set of pulleys to reduce the speed from the motor. The original design is pretty good and would probably be easier to build. Hope that helps.
You can buy the book on eBay and through the British based model engineering suppliers. Several vendors sell full sized prints which are helpful. Look at the suppliers like GLR Kennions, Blackgates Engineering, etc.
Mine wont engage if the lever for the half nut is at all moved there's some kind of interlock going on there.. If you do disassemble that thing, please do a vid on it. Getting ready to take mine apart. Think I biffed my power crossfeed.. It engages, but the handle doesn't move w/ any force. Have a feeling I sheered a roll pin or something in there. Longitudinal power feed works fine.
Hi Bill. I found your vidio re the sewing machine motors and how to reverse them, very useful so thanks alot. One last question the motors for the UK are 240 volt but there are two types 10,000rpm and 7,000rpm, which speed did you have I'm guessing it was 10,000 rpm as they have the 1amp current as I think you stated. Once again thanks for you help.
Hi Martyn, sorry I am not sure of the actual RPM rating of the little sewing machine motor. Mine is connected to a foot pedal which gives me nice control over the drilling speed. I think you will be happy with a set up like that. Good luck! Bill.
I have a genuine Smith little torch. Use it almost daily for the last probably 5 years. I originally purchased a chinese clone and immediately threw it out. Too many safety issues and poorly made when inspected. Not worth the risk when using Oxy/Propane.
Here are links to the videos on the motor and motor videos : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aN7nDRMB6Oc.htmlfeature=shared , ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aN7nDRMB6Oc.htmlfeature=shared hope that helps!
