Hi there viewers! I bet you are wondering what Solar City Garage is all about. Well it is about a lot of things. You just never know what we will be working on. It could be anything from Model T Fords to modern day cars and trucks. Fabrication may also show up from time to time, which would included metal lathe, milling and building cool stuff. We also like to have a little fun and destroy some things and do just plain silly things associated with the daily grind of fixing things. Heck, we might even take some field trips to the race track in the summer or salvage yard runs. So you just never know! Somedays we will educate, bore you to tears or make you laugh until you cry! We just want to bring you along for the ride! Thanks for watching and be sure to subscribe and ring that bell to join us!!
My 26 TT also had no interior seals. The original crown gear was knife-edged, so I replaced it with a set of express gears. The spider was the older 2-gear style, so somebody had swapped axles sometime in the last 100 years. I went back with the later 3-gear style spider.
I'm wondering if my '26 is needing the clutch fingers adjusted? When I shift to high the car jerks and bangs into gear. I do dump the throttle and sometimes even retard the spark. Also I have tried shifting earlier and later.
An old timer once told me. "Just tighten the bolts til the head breaks off, then back off a quarter turn." With a 3/8 drive ratchet, you're not likely to break those clutch bolts.( 22 minutes)
Well done job! Hahahaha your last comment I liked, if you have a better way to do it please do so, very well said. I also tell people the same way, as you always have the best captains standing on the shore giving orders. No, you did very well explained and with the tranquility to effect a darn good installation. Thumbs up 👍🏼 and thank you for your guidance.
You should’ve started with the 2 bolts in front in either side of the crankshaft and then put your 4 th main bearing on and attach it with 2 bolts. This will ensure your pan is inline with your crankshaft and tail shaft. Will help ensure that you keep stress off of the vulnerable crankshaft.
I just found your channel since I searched Model TT. Lucy looks great! I have not yet watched the previous build videos but plan to. The reason I am searching this model is because I know of couple of these trucks sitting in a barn as we speak. I am not fully aware of their condition, but I have laid eyes on them a couple years ago. I am up for a project like this but do not know how to proceed with offering to purchase them. If I could ask, is there a window that these trucks might be worth being found untouched for nearly 30+ years? I appreciate any input you might provide. Again, great work on the truck.
We haven't installed the windows in the door yet as we are missing some of the trim pieces. As far as all the rubber parts, they came from Langs. Now they really are not listed for a TT truck, So I ordered by the shape of the rubber and based them on a closed car. Kind of had to wing it, but it worked! Thanks for watching!
4:13 I like to use about 50-70% Lucas oil stabilizer, with 30-50% 20w50 engine oil for things like this, and on the cam, pure Lucas, then just s drop of oil . So 5-10% oil at most. And about 2-4oz of Lucas in oil pumps , (if equipped) they tend to prime instantly , even years later! If the tolerance is tighter, use 5w30 and less Lucas. It has just always worked well for me.
I have followed your restoration series, video by video, and have greatly enjoyed it. Lucy looks wonderful! Looking forward to future videos. Keep 'em coming!
I really enjoy these updates on your videos! I have my own Model T and Im restoring it from the ground up, your engine build videos were really helpful in rebuilding my engine. I can't wait until that parade!
It's easy to see why the T and the TT were so successful, any decently equipped blacksmith shop could have fixed just about anything. Just Imagine drilling those sleeves with a breast drill.
Yes, that is when people really earned a wage. The T is very forgiving too in most areas. Rule of thumb is lose fit is better than tight. Hard to convince modern machinists of that! LOL Thanks for watching!
Nice work. I just relined my bands with kevlar, and soaked them in oil for three days. I’m now about to install them. Hopefully this will solve the slow pickup issue.
I had ordered a top boot from Lang's and ripped it pretty badly trying to get it to fit over my folded top. When I phoned Lang's to buy another one, Don Lang asked me to measure my top from various points that he specified. That resulted in him telling me that my top was unusually wide and that occasionally, when an owner restores a top, the dimensions don't come out right. Evidently, someone in my car's past had done exactly that and made the top bows wider than Ford's original spec. I had ruined the new boot trying to get it to fit over the larger top. . Don told me to return the ripped boot to him and he'd have his vendor create one to fit my top's non-standard dimensions. I certainly expected this custom work to be more costly than that of the standard, mass-produced item. Well, not only did Don Lang not charge me for the replacement custom-sized boot-which fit perfectly-he didn't even charge me for shipping. He bore the expense of all of that himself. . Not only that, sometimes, when I order a part that will fit in an envelope, Lang's sends it via U.S. Postal Service and the cost of shipping amounts to that of a postage stamp. And sometimes they'll slip in an extra little freebee with my order-something like a gasoline dip-stick or ignition key or something. . Another thing: When I buy tires, I always get them from Lang's because they "drop-ship" directly from the manufacturer to make sure their customers get fresh tires instead of tires that have dried out in some hot warehouse for some extended period. When I peel the cellophane wrapping away from the new tires, they absolutely stink up the room with the dizzying smell of fresh, soft rubber. The super-fresh tires mount more easily and last longer. . I'm usually hesitant about making recommendations, but not when it comes to Lang's Old Car Parts. Their customer service is conspicuously the very best. The Lang family definitely goes the extra mile to make sure their customers are happy.
Thanks for watching! I was getting worried too! Sometimes when the camera is recording, the job seems to take twice as long or twice as difficult. Most likely "Murphy's Law"! LOL Thanks again!
Yep, it was 3 degrees this morning! I shot that video less than two weeks ago, it was a balmy 45 and a beautiful day to be outside! Wisconsin Life! LOL Thanks for watching!
It depends if you have replaced the valves. If the valves have been replaced with one piece valves and everything else is used, then I would aim for .015. The original valves were cast and would grow in length with heat a lot more than the one piece (modern) valves. That is why the original clearance was around .030. If everything is good and they are at .020, it will not hurt anything, just be a little more noisy. Thanks for watching and good luck with your T!
Hey there, wanted to say thank you for continuing to share all of this awesome work on the TT you are restoring. I have my late grandfathers TT which I love, however haven’t taken the rear end apart yet. Quite different than the standard T.
I've never seen the inside of the TT rearend, interesting. I used the modern inside seal and felt outside seal on my speedster and it seem to be working out so far. (I better not brag or it will fly apart blow oil out) Great video. Cheers from the shed
I thought it would be neat to show and they are so much simpler than the car rears! Better knock on some wood to get your luck back. Thanks for watching!
Yes, it just makes you want to turn it and watch it work. As far as the shoes, I have saved a few sets over the years, they do pop up on ebay every once in awhile, but not nearly as often as they used to. Thanks for watching!
Thank You! I am glad you enjoyed it! We are going to keep the model TT project moving forward as well as some new stuff, so stay tuned! Thanks for watching!
I have a similar Langs head gasket story. About a year and a half ago I ordered a copper gasket and they were out of stock, so I said send me a steel one then. Got it, used it and forgot about it. Four months latter a copper gasket showed up on my porch, with no charge that I could ever find. I've been running with my head torqued to 45 for a couple of years because I'm too chicken to take it to 55lbs. It don't leak so I guess I'm ok? Cheers
That's good to hear, They are a class act! yes, you should be fine at 45. If she isn't leaking then it will be fine. Back when T's were new, there were not any torque numbers used for service. The main thing is that they are even and not bottomed out. Thanks for watching!
