I went to Clover High and live in Rock Hill now. Just put a BTR Truck Norris cam and afm delete on my 2010 Tahoe and just picked it up from the tuner today. Also put a 3.5" lift on it. Looking for big brake upgrades now.
I found a miller arm very similar to this for $300. I don’t weld but I’m thinking I can adapt it to my other use cases like airbrushing, soldering and venting my 3d printer enclosure
@@BaunPerformance it ended up being just too damn big for my space. 8” and probably 12’ overall length. They are still trying to sell it. It’s not the complete unit in that it’s only the arm, not the filtration or motor.
Would all of this be the same for a Tguan? I am contemplating a 2020 SE with 4Motion AWD and just wanted to see what I am getting into when it comes time to do the fluids. Of course there is no such thing as maintenance free or lifetime fluids. There are long life fluids but but lifetime. Not if you plan to keep it longer than 10 years or 60,000 miles. Once you hit 60,000 miles it starts to become a lot more important to change those fluids if you didn't already.
@@BaunPerformancemight have to contact tuner. Running DO88, generic inlet elbow, apr open intake, silicone intake hose, -1 plugs, is38+, Cobb dp… I think that’s it. Only made 306 on the ole mustang dyno
‘17 DSG with PP + ECU/TCU stage 1 Been having tapping noise and misfires + poor performance off and on. Might’ve narrowed it down to a stuck/bad lifter, but I’m wondering what would’ve cause it to become problematic in the first place. Is it possible a failing PCV could’ve led to oil contamination and fouled up the lifters? Trying to figure out before giving into the stealership
My car is at 80k miles. I have the oil weeping issues like you mentioned in the video. Also had a little bit of oil on one of my spark plugs. I also have misfires on cylinder 2 at idle. If I unplug the N80 valve that is connected to the PCV the misfires go away. I’m thinking the PCV is the issue.
Read somewhere that a possible sign of a bad pcv could be an oil leak Only saying because I recently had a small oil leak coming from my OE last oil pan so I replaced with a steel one and used a dry gasket but now I just have the same problem after replacing Is it possible a bad pcv is causing high pressure and making the leak still happen
I talk about it in this video, the most common crank case pressure induced leak would be at the oil cap (which can run down and be misdiagnosed as something like the oil pan)
Did the car ever have blue smoke on startup? It’s an issue I’m having with mine and it looks like I may have some seepage around the valve cover as well. Trying to narrow it down.
Yes, it started around 80-90k ish. Unfortunately blue smoke (oil burning) on cold start has absolutely nothing to do with external leaks or PCV issues. Being a spicy economy car, VW used inferior valve guide seals. The oil leaks past them on higher mileage MQB and burns off on cold start. Luckily, it’s such a small amount of oil even at 140k+ it doesn’t add up to a significant amount over my 7k oil change interval, but it is annoying & can only really be fixed with new bronze valve guides/seals (upgraded from OEM)
@@BaunPerformance Wow definitely one of the most helpful comments I’ve ever received on a post. Thank you! But also I’m definitely not a mechanic so I’m curious… if a bad PCV leads to external leaks due to over pressurization, why could it not cause internal leaks? Again just curious since your first explanation clearly shows you know what you’re talking about. Thanks again!
Little late commenting but i have a 2017 jetta with misfires on all cylinders after changing spark plugs and coil packs, suspecting it could be buildup on the valves, The CEL was intermittent for a while before going staying on constantly. Any feedback or opinions appreciated
If it happened with the parts change it’s the parts you installed. Double check the ground straps, but it’s most likely incorrect or poor quality components
I crank the flow up to 55cfh on the torch & 20 on the back purge. 88amps on 0.65 & as high as 105-125 depending on what thickness flange or hanger is going on. The trick is to move quickly and cool the puddle with filler
Ive had stage 2 apr for 3 months and 10k miles of 10% hard driving and so far my clutch is still going strong. It has worn a little maybe about 10-20% at most
The stock IS20 in the '15 GTI Autobahn I bought 7 months ago as a one-owner 53K mile car is apparently at deaths door at 54K. Car came running Unitronic Stage 2 which was installed (w catted DP) at around 40K. First of all, pretty (VERY) shocked that it would go at such low mileage. Secondly, naturally since it needs replacing anyway am thinking of going IS38 or something like Vortex (heard bad things re: EQT...Garrett PowerMax?) but one thing I'm not doing is putting another POS OEM IS20...what a joke. I'll check your tuning vid but it seems like MK7 people either hate or love Unitronic. I loved driving their Stage 2 in mostly city traffic and their customer service is great....maybe it's a case of I don't know what I'm missing with other tunes...?? TY cheers dude!
I’d recommend a OEM is38 from FCP (lifetime warranty FTW) if you’re happy with the power it makes now, although with any upgraded turbo should be paired with a upgraded intercooler (if you don’t have one already). 2015 cars had early revision turbo and other engine parts, so a fresh current revision is38 should last 100,000+ miles worry free with proper maintenance.
My wife’s been begging me to tint the shop truck, but on a classic I kinda like the clear glass. I agree on a blacked out R tint is a must, but being from the northeast it can be a issue (local laws, tickets, ect)
Water pump isn’t run off the timing set like older VW, so it can be done whenever. You can check timing chain stretch via VCDS or through a inspection cover, but the Gen3 TSI tend to last a long time
You make one cut to the OEM catback, which is one piece from the factory. Exactly the same method as a resonator delete, & fully reversible with the supplied clamp if you ever return to stock.
I sell & ship the Downpipe & Midpipe, which is $3,250. There’re videos specifically on that. The full Valved TBE in this video ($6,000) was too expensive to justify offering as a production part. 42 hours of fabrication to complete, which is way beyond what most Golf R owners are willing to spend. $6,000 was cost,
