Hey kanrog, what about using something like a vertical din rail for the psu? Have a look at mine… #210 din rail screwed to the mk1 frame with some custom mounts.
This is hilarious! Who knew a drawer could be a laptop fix? 😂 I’ve done the same with my homelab-such a clever way to put otherwise consumable hardware to use! But hey, if you ever want to step up your game, you could always 3D print a custom laptop case! Just imagine the design possibilities! Just throwing that out there-love the creativity! Keep up the great work!
Just as I was submitting this comment, my wife sees the video from a distance and says: "Oh! I would totally Gridfinitify that!" 🤣. Throwing more on the pile.
That’s impressive. I have the swx1, what did you do too get it to print faster? What’s the best way for me too speed up printing without loosing too much quality? Thanks
I know that is all about speed... but I like to know what quality it can achieve - if it's in similar time to Bambu print time and quality or even better then it is a way to go
I'm so thankful you hopped on a discord call with when building my ldo rook kit! Now i've already modded my kit with your rook shields and a aux parts cooling fan
same printer as you with the same setup, e3v3 with micro v2, my z homes up not down when the probe is on, however wants to max out z instead of going down, if i unplug the probe it goes down then spazzes (obviously because probe is unplugged) any ideas hoss? Tried looking, cant find anything that would cause this..
Yes, but I would recommend using a PTFE adapter and running it the same orientation as in a normal direct drive setup. The PTFE coupler on it does not like the increased pressure
How can I use this HGX Lite extruder in a bowden setup, the product came with just itself and no user manual about how to set it up. Can you help me with it, I just got a free Ender 3 pro from a friend of mine and still learning my ways around this hobby
It would require a custom mount, but it's doable. The PTFE collet doesn't like being in a Bowden setup, so I would recommend running it in reverse and adding a printed part with a new collet on it. Come to the Rolohaun Discord and I'm sure we can get you going with it.
Unless the size is super important, personally, I would get the Pico if it's cheaper. It's also a board that's been around for a while, so more documentation is available
Thanks for covering the Micro4! Mellow is doing some cool stuff, I’m looking at getting a Micro4 and their Fly Pad for a little bed slinger I’m working on.
Still working on it, so sorry for the delay! I've made a list on all the steps needed and pinned it in the Rook channel on the Rolohaun discord. Hope that gets you going at least.
I originally wanted to convert my 2nd Kobra 2 Max to a core XY, then I found this 2020 scalable Rook. Was wondering what you thought. They are fast and my first one prints like a dream. This second one I bought off Marketplace and he had apparently dropped it and it had a lot of problems at first I got it cheap, and I took it apart, retightened down everything, and tweeked it. Now, it only has one issue. If you print a large file, it will eventually shift. So that will be my parts machine lol
After making the video, I found that there is a way to have variables for your entire document, contrary to what I've said in this video! On the bottom navigation bar, press the [+] symbol and hit "Create Variable Studio". In here, you can create variables that can be used on the entire document! To easily view these when working on a document, press the "Variable Table" symbol at the right edge of the window. I've updated the Document with these changes. Hope this helps!
I have the Panda Touch and the intent to change to the K Touch software. I saw how complicated it was to do so I just picked up the k touch on launch day. I have 4 Klipper printers so I thought it would be useful however I find the software quite lacking, to be honest. I hope they add more options soon. Macros, lighting control, multi-fan control, flow control, etc. It would also be nice to see Klipper info like speeds, flow, etc. Essentially be a Klipper pad mixed with the options it has now. I know I am asking a lot but one can wish, right? Lol
Definitely a step up from CYD-Klipper. Also a fair bit easier to setup than klipperscreen even if you don't mind spending the cash on displays. Cool product!
thank you for this video. It is amazing how different you design in TinkerCAD compared to me. But that only shows the power of this nifty program. The holes are positioned different, that's about it. But that happened because you did not position them to data (which I would have done). I also would have saved the hole object as a tool for future use but all these things are material for the next video. 👋
Hello, Thank you so much for this review! I am glad you like my design. Would it be possible for me to post this review on the printables page? About the screws for the rollers not being included in the kit, I'll forward this to Blurolls and see if it would be possible to include them. Thanks again!
