Just one section can be removed. You may have to loosen the bolts to one of adjacent sections tho. To change the oil one plates needs to be removed, but its only 8 bolts. It'd be fast with a power tool.
My 2000 4Runner had a spot I had repaired happens to most that get salt on the roads ! I’m in Baltimore county Maryland and my truck has 291k miles and runs like new ! It’s lifted 5 inches on 33 inch Mickey Thompson tires ! Still averages 18mpg mostly city !
It's not a reliability issue. Buy a new truck, move to the beach and make sure it gets a regular dose of salt air. It will rot, and thats not the manufacturer's fault. Had an 04 Tacoma; sprayed the inside of the frame rails with epoxy. Painted the outside with POR15, then a topcoat and then Eastwood stonechip undercoating. The frame was a little crispy when I got the truck, but the steps I took kept it from going any further and was pretty darn reliable.
I don't think a frame has anything to do with "reliability". Just take care of your truck. Metal and salt don't fare well. Use Fluid Film every year or take it to Krown.
this is a super well known issue that has been common knowledge for the last 15 years, frame is the first thing you check on 96-2010 tacomas, tundras etc.
I was always very meticulous about checking frame rust, sanding, painting etc, but it seems ridiculous with all the cutouts that you just hope its staying dry. I have been using lanolin undercoating since I live up north. That seems to make a huge difference.
What a crock. You miss the entire reason for preheating. Perhaps you should learn some metallurgy before making an ass of yourself as you have here. Expansion is the least reason for preheating.
well you will find out the hard way but heads up spring steel is a high carbon steel that is hardened an tempered. What you did was weld spring steel to mild steel its going to crack at the point of fusion or the first time it is put into torsion it will take a permanent set or break or something along those lines. But a spring it will not be.
I looked high and low for spring steel in 1-1/8" dia., but couldn't find any; so the rod is 4130. Not ideal I know, but neither is welding a sway bar. That said, I've flexed the truck out a few times and driven it for two weeks with the welded sway bar. She hasn't cracked yeeet.
In carbon steels the carbon content determines whether or not there is going to be "hardening" or not. In the mild steel group the carbon content is .05 up to .25. This small amount of carbon permits cold working without cracking/breaking,...very ductile. There is not enough carbon in the metal for any "hardening" to happen. In the medium carbon group the carbon content is .26 up to .60 ... some "hardening" can happen here. This group means there is less ductility. Gears, shafts and axels are made in this group. High carbon steel, .61-1.50 carbon even less ductility, stronger. Hardening can happen in this group. Drill bits and files ( which as you know are Very brittle) are from this group. A drill bit holds its sharp edge b/c of the higer carbon content. This is why a drill bit can drill a hole in "softer" mtl. I want to suggest you use clamps, angles, strong backs in other words to prevent warping...instead of preheating. I have learned to use these measures. Also, I worked with a very clever pipeweldor/fitter on a new chemical plant build. He showed me how to use a wet rag to counter the heat from the weld input. We got 6" pipe flanges (carbon steel pipe) to move to where the millwrights wanted. These pipe flanges had to be within .003"-.005." When the bolts go to the pump flanges and are tightened...they'd pull the pump out of alignment and the motor/pump coupling would not last long at all. We used the wet rag to counter stainless pipe too. S/s pipe is especially subject to warping from welding heat. Again...there is not enough carbon in these pipe grades to cause any "hardening." If you'd like to write...I'd do that with you. I've been in the welding trade since 1979. I turned my truck into a portable welding rig. One year I worked 12 different shutdowns. I'd pick up small jobs for myself inbetween "a real job." Am retired now. No more public work. Still make useful items for myself. No art ! All the best, Pete
I lifted my truck about 6 months ago and with my normal Jack it couldnt get my truck high enough to add the lift blocks. Not a big fan of using a wooden block in between so I got the badlands and holy hell its a good Jack. Lifts up my truck effortlessly compared to my other Jack and is sooooo much easier to move around, even in grass. If you want to use it with lower vehicles just have them drive on a piece of wood. Because this Jack is so popular the amount of accessories is insane. Id happily buy another one tomorrow if mine broke
Stick welding works great with straight DC off batteries which is smoother than a rectified output. BTW the original "off grid" welding (other than forge welding of course) is oxy-acetylene welding. You can supply oxygen using a medical oxygen concentrator powered as you prefer and some have high pressure pumps for filling medical cylinders for which welding regulator adapters are available online. You can buy bulk carbide and an acetylene generator (or refurb an old one but most are too ancient to fix) or just use acetylene cylinders which go cheap used. Oxy-propane works for cutting and brazing.
@12:11 in the video I show a system diagram. To deflate you would add a dump valve by the interior gauge. I use Apex tire deflators each tire individually is like 10 seconds so it is a fairly painless process and so didn’t see the point to adding deflate abilities to the system.
Has anyone ever used these for anything other than for decoration? They seem dangerous if someone is trying to use these and they’re not aware of what they’re mounted to.
If I came across someone stuck I wouldn't recover them if demon brackets where the only option. This wouldn't be me being unempathetic, it's just not safe.
Best explanation/review I've seen done on these things for sure. I have a 2010 Tacoma TRD 4x4 and have wanted to put a set of recovery points on mine for the longest time. Unfortunately I have yet to find anything for my year truck which is still pretty much stock. I ran across these Demon Brackets a while back and at first I was excited to finally find something that would fit but after looking at them more closely I immediately became very skeptical. Thank you for taking the time to create this video. It is much appreciated. My search continues. Uhg!
Im glad the video was helpful! If you have the factory front hook I showed in this video you should be fine for light to moderation recoveries; you don't need to buy anything. If you want to spend some money, ARB offers a stout front recovery point.
@@daltonellis10 Nope, I used cardboard templates for the frame plates as you saw in the video. Then cut all your tubes and add gussets from the frame plates to the tubes. This is a great early fabrication project if you're looking to build your own.
You made a whole video complaining about an "off road jack", incredible. I love mine. Your comment about the off road jack wheels will sink in sand and snow is true, but after the wheels sink the frame of the jack wont sink and will continue to work. I know this because i raise my vehicles in my grassy driveway often (3 vehicles) and all 4 jack wheels always sink to the frame, and also works in snow, havent tried sand but i imagine is similar. The off road jack is more stable, has a bigger contact pad, about 3 inches versus 1 inch, i dont have to reach under vehicle, when comparing to the bottle jack. Its easier to move the off road jack on any terrain that isn't smooth concrete like the Daytona you mentioned. I have one and cant use it at home since i dont have a concrete slab. The weight of the jack is heavy and nothing good to be said there. Its heavy and thats bad. I dont understand why you say "the weight of the jack will break your vehicle". Thats nonsense. I dont think most people carry this off road jack for "scene points". I only carry during events This could have been a great compare and contrast video but delivered poor. This is a bad video on your end.
I don’t think this is a design flaw. It depends on the working environment. If you have an open air setup than yes, its not ideal to blow hot air onto the intakes. But these compressors are sometimes put into small spaces with very little airflow like in a box or under a seat. That small environment is going to heat up very quickly when the compressor runs so it could be beneficial to orient the hot air towards the intake so it gets taken out and away from that space as fast as possible. Might be why they left it like that because in an open air environment it probably doesn’t affect performance too much, but might impact it much more when airflow is limited. Would be interesting to test for this.
I'm considering getting one of these because it looks perfect for use on our ranch. Lots of times we need to jack something up that maybe isn't on a concrete slab and even though the terrain is mostly flat dirt, floor jacks can be a pain to move around on anything except for a clean concrete floor. Even our barn floor gets so much dirt and crud on it when bringing equipment in sometimes that the floor jack is annoying and catches on it. These off-road floor jacks look like the perfect solution! I definitely wouldn't plan on taking it on a trail with me, but for use around the land if I need to jack up equipment or stuff, it looks perfect!
Have you ever tried to jack your truck i mn deep snow in an angle… This is why they call these Jack… Offroad Jack. You are actually in your back yard 😅
At first I was judgmental. “Oh this dude probably has money and is gonna explain to us why we need a crazy expensive jack over the budget one.” My assumption was completely off. Why spend money when you ALREADY HAVE THE TOOL! lol. I’m probably gonna buy a few bottle jacks for the trials. Light weight, sometimes you need more than one, jack up higher, and cheap.
We just used a "Badlands" 3 ton jack to get an M1167 Humvee (without a right rear wheel or hub) onto a trailer to be shipped. The terrain was about the same or worse than what your on, but we were able to move the humvee about 18 feet with it on the jack while pulling with a winch without tearing up the yard, breaking anything, or scratching up the trailer floor. Even though factory jacks will get you our of many situations, if you need the vehicle to move while jacked up, these jacks are perfect...but a lot more safety must be used and they will not roll over rocks.
Hmmm....35" tires on a Tundra and you are worried about a 72 lb jack? What do you think adding those tires do to the "performance" of your truck? Oh and that steel bed....how much more does that weigh over the factory bed? If you are carrying that farm jack, what is really the weight difference over that floor jack? Thankfully, you have a very aerodynamic off-road truck!
The custom bed is 200ish lbs lighter than the stock bed. The tires give off-road capability that the truck otherwise wouldn't have had, so the weight is welcome. A floor jack wouldn't be welcome weight bc the factory jack works fine. My floor jack stays at home where its weight doesn't matter.
