ScubaMoto shows you how to do it yourself. Repair, maintenance or other life hacks. If I can do this stuff, so can you. Subscribe to ScubaMoto and see what worked using common tools and materials. If you own something, consider the advantages of repairing or servicing it yourself:
1- Work gets done right 2- Save time - no appointments, loaner cars or waiting rooms 3- Save money 4- Save the planet -Fixing it keeps it out of the landfill 5- Quality parts will be used 6- Learn something -Fixing it shows you how it works
BE ADVISED: Fixing things can be dangerous. Due to elements of interpretation and limitations by not being present to observe, ScubaMoto and affiliates are not responsible or liable for any loss or damage caused by your reliance on or understanding of the presented information contained in these videos. Please use protective gear.
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Amazing I followed your video and was able to reach cupholder. I found something was broken down and i ordered replacement. But your video is very helpful and to the point. Thanks for uploading such informative video.
5 years ago everyone in these comments were having the same problem as me right now. Went to change my oil before work and now I’m having to take it to my buddies shop because Toyota likes to make an impossibly tight PLASTIC housing on the Camry 2011 🙄
After decades of using filters like the one in this video, Toyota has recently gone back to traditional metal cannister spin-off filters on the corollas, Camrys and others. Thanks for sharing and good luck with it.
where can I buy it? can you kindly give any information? I'm from Bangladesh and my laptop has same problem as well as it gives kind of electrical shock when it's on charge.
So I was wondering. I know I can use needle nose pliers. But what size are those little screws? My fake I fix it kit made by Quinn doesn't have one that fits them. So I was wondering what size it was and what kit you have? Thank you
The screw heads are 1/8th inch hex. Somewhat common and I have provided many references in the video description that should get you started finding one or finding a set that includes one. They're nice to have and are not too expensive. I like the sets. I hope that helps.
I have been using the gaskets referenced in the video description. The 0.8mm and 0.9mm should both be fine. I actually have good luck with the 0.8mm but they will both work as they both have plenty of room to flatten out for the watch shown in this video. The dimensions for my watch gasket are also shown in the video at 4:52 . The references in the video description should get you started toward finding a set that includes the watch you're working on. If you want original Citizen brand gaskets, you would need to order through a Citizen licensed repair shop or from Citizen customer service. My watches are old enough that Citizen gaskets are getting difficult to source. I hope that helps.
We'll hope or assume your cylinder is ok. I haven't done it but I would pursue the job without hesitation. Slide the cylinder off. Piston off rod. Compressor for new gapped rings and new cylinder base gasket (no head gasket needed). The rest is pretty much already in this video. Good luck with it.
Thanks you for your time, advice and kind support. Ill do the add oil before oil change. The tube O eing must be wearing out. PS. I have noticed the on cold engine the gauge reading around half. Thanks again for all kind usual efforts 🙏🙏🙏🙏
My truck now 255000 miles. I see the needle only third of the gauge. No work on the engine except regular maintenance. And no symptoms of low oil pressure like knocking or other noises. And no oil consuming at all. I change oil every 6000 miles. I use mobile 1 5w30 fully synthetic. I want the oil pressure to go higher so it reaches the top of the engine to extend it life as mich as possible. I bought this truck NEW and i kept very very well preventive maintenance on it since i bought it. thats why engine, transmission and diff never performed re-build yet Thanks sir for your kind quick response 🙏
So we now have a new comment so I will summarize for others. You reported low oil pressure reading on the dash gauge in your 2011 Tahoe with 255000 miles. Good job on your maintenance efforts. Since you're the only owner, the truck has likely always had good maintenance. Even so, at 255K, a number of things can cause low oil pressure. If the actual pressure has dropped, it could easily be normal engine wear at that mileage since some drop in pressure over time and high mileage is normal on all vehicle. However, since there are no valve noises or other signs or symptoms; it could mean a couple of other things. The first is that the pressure may not be as low as the sender and/or gauge are indicating. You can verify true pressure by removing the sensor and screwing in a more accurate pressure gauge to verify accuracy of the vehicle's gauge. Another possibility is that these vehicles are known to have an occasional failure of the o-ring that seals the oil pick-up tube for the sump leading to somewhat low supply to the oil pump. This is known to reduce oil pressure. Replacing the o-ring requires removal of oil pan so I would start with trying to verify that it's the o-ring. The easiest way is to purposely overfill your oil by 2 quarts JUST BRIEFLY. Best to do this just before an oil change so you'll be draining it all out after the test. If running it with 2 extra quarts increases your oil pressure, then a three dollar o-ring and a new oil pan gasket will likely improve your pressure. I hope that helps.
I'll try to help. Please answer some questions. 1. How many miles on vehicle? 2. What makes you think the pressure is too low? 3. Has any work been done to the engine leading up to the low oil pressure? 4. Do you see or hear any symptoms of low oil pressure like rod knock or valve noise? 5. Does your truck consume oil and need topping off between oil changes? 6. How often do you change oil and what type of oil do you use?
Thank you for the video. I have the exact same tank if I order the complete kit that you have a link to on Amazon is that everything I need to hook it up exactly how you just did in the video?
About 6 months after I made this video, the valve that came with this tank failed. I produced a follow-up video on also replacing that valve with an improvement that has a metal knob. They're only about ten bucks. So I highly recommend watching that process and including the improved valve replacement in any build of a tank setup. The link to that video is at the top of this video description. As for build kits, I try to find vendors with high ratings and kits that appear to be a good value. Always read and consider negative reviews. People do different things with these tanks so just be sure you're seeing what you'll need in any kit. I hope that helps and thanks for the question.
This solution worked for me. After spending $75 on a 300 ft-lb impact wrench. The oil filter wrench was chiseled down on the edges where the socket goes. Ridiculous.
I'm glad to hear it finally came off. The wrench in the video got pretty beat up too and even lost a couple of teeth but it still works fine to this day. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video. Really appreciate how thorough and clear you are in the how-to instructions. My leak ended up being in the condenser, so wish me luck on replacing it (which shouldn't be too hard). You are a saint!
@@ScubaMoto got a ‘77 K5 Blazer with Vintage Air. Stopped blowing cold. Found the leak this evening after watching your video. Black Lake Louisiana. It’s hot. The leak is in the high pressure hose. The crimped fitting. Now I just got to find a replacement hose.
Oh yeah, JB Weld's not gonna help you on that one. If you can't repair it, Autozone still carries a lot of that old stuff. If not, set your search on "Old Air Products 95-0548 - A/C Hose" and that might get you in the right direction. Thanks again for the comment.
I don't think you'll be able to access the blend door from the chamber of the glove boxes. If so, they are way down low so it would be below the lower glove box way up front. The temp doors are pretty deep in there. But the actuators that operate the diverter door are in there to the left of the cabin air filter so you can watch them operate from there. The cabin air filter is behind the lower glove box so just pull both the upper and lower glove boxes so you can see and watch the door actuator function. If you have to remove the actual hot-cold blend door, it will require some center dash removal. All that trim removes with the same type of pressure tabs I show in this video. With the trim off, screws are revealed and self explanatory.
