You can never have to many projects right? At least that's what I tell myself... Living with severe ADHD means I have no shortage of hyper-fixations... this channel included! Unfortunately that means I have a nasty habit of leaving things at 90% completion. I started this channel as a way of forcing myself to complete a task, and along the way hopefully I can help others gain the confidence to tackle a project they may otherwise be scared to start.
You never know what you can do until you try.
Welcome to Project Addiction
Disclaimer:
Videos on this channel should not be considered a replacement for a proper licensed professional. The creators have provided content and information which is accurate and true to the best of their knowledge at the time of production. Project Addiction will not be held liable for any false, inaccurate, inappropriate or incomplete information presented on this channel. Any and all work performed by the viewer is done at their own risk.
Can you fix my 1983 Buick Skylark? I don't think it has a 4th gear (automatic) it takes 4 Mississippis until I can feel it kick in the torque getting to 50 onto the highway. Yes, the poor man's Cadillac gets me the honeys.
An actual drift chassis changes everything, but you sadly chose to buy an unopened relic by nowadays standards. Should have gone with the RD2.0, but then again going with a yokomo drift chassis gives you the whole world of upgrading to whatever you want down the line.
A friend had it sitting in his basement, so the price was very right. I will upgrade down the road, but for now my skill is nowhere near the limit of the chassis.
@@projectaddiction thats kinda what i assumed, in that case as mentioned its perfectly fit as a base to grow with. I hope you stay addicted to the hobby :)
What a great teacher. Please help me fix my new friend. Lol I fell in love with this can in Japan and now I'm trying to fix her. Not sure what I did wrong.
I find this interesting. Im working on simular project and I need 3d print from filter to intake but on diesel turbo engine. Iv been considdering PETG or PCTG and I think air intake is up to its specs because air flow is never so hot anyway but if the filer is getting clogged the underpressure is maybe more of an issue. You said that the engine was starting to give signals, vaccum leak and so on but I cant understand why and I dont see how the PETG print was failing but more adapting to the tension from misaligned hoses. Did you perform any leak test on the old PETG print to ensure if the pipe was holding up or did you do any tests on it at all? My project is a lot longer pipe and takes a lots of turns and bends so its importand for me to do a litle research so Im not critisicing your work but rather hear your opinion and if you did some more tests on old or nw part. Regards JGH Iceland
@izan1001 the tube began to deform and was no longer round, causing air leakage around the sealing surface at the band clamp. The deformation eventually became so great the clamp could not make up for the large varience in shape. The ASA part has held fast with no issue. I have now had multiple PETG parts "fail" in ambient engine bay temps. It should be noted this doesn't mean catastrophic failure, I consider any unplanned deformation from the original shape/design a failure.
@goguma2008 wish I could tell you... I painted it over 20 years ago. I THINK it was a tamiya paint colour but knowing younger me... it could also be krylon....
Excellent video! I've loved watching this channel, and have been learning plenty o' stuff. I've got a 97 L400, so a lot of your content has been super relevant!
I have the 6g72 24 valve engine. I think i need to replace the crank pulley because im hearing a shivvering rattle when accelating. like metal on metal. Only under load. Do i have to remove the timing belt etc? And is the procedure the same? Greetings Stef from the Netherlands
@stefvullings some of the steps will be the same, but I believe you can replace the harmonic balancer on its own. However if your belt is due for replacement, it wouldn't be a bad idea to just keep going and do the belt at the same time while you are in there.
I had the same thing happen on my LR 3 V8, 4.4L, it was devastating and there was nothing about it online, i mopped out a bunch of oil from the intake after a huge plum of smoke, ithe pcv created more pollution than it ever saved, Land Rover engineers have a sick sense of humor
Hello, I have a problem with the Delica, it won't turn me on to 4th gear, I checked the gear shifter, the cable on the pump is working, it is set to 34mm, the temperature sensor at the head, I don't know what the resistance should be.
Wait, what...? I was following this until you used the grease gun at the end: is this necessary? Never seen another ball joint replacement video showing this.
@mattbarratt5328 all depends on the ball joints you purchase. Many cheap units are not serviceable, I opted to with serviceable joints as they last longer but are more expensive.
@@projectaddiction i have a pop tester. there was a suggestion of perhaps a beer/pop can cut into circle? i would rather a real one but not sure where to get
@BboyKozijn you should be able to find them online. If i recall correctly, they are Zexel injectors. I purchased mine from a local fuel injection shop. NW fuel injection.
@@projectaddiction awesome man thanks for the info its much appreciated :) looks like we close to each other lol if surrey is local for you im on the island
Good clip PA! What are your thoughts on why it only needed like 4-5L of fluid? I think these take around 7 litres of trans fluid. Do you think it’s because you decided to not do a ‘full’ flush?
@danielgladys48 a drian and fill will only get what's sitting in the pan. There is still more fluid in the pump and torque converter, which will not have been drained.
Check the new for correct resistance values. If that checks out, have a look at the wiring/plugs leading the gauge. It could be as simple as a bad pin.
You can probably gain a little bit of ride height making c hubs that lowers the wheel axle 1 - 3 mm & potentially go with CVD shafts if there are any that fits all around. As they allow a bit sharper angles then dogbones does, which can gain you a bit more steering angle as well if that design is modified a bit too give it more steering throw then the original steering setup. Might need to modify the steering anyway to allow more ride height after all so worth keeping that in mind. As well as design new a arms which moves the mounting holes for the bottom of the shock up a mm or two which should gain you a bit of ride height as well. Ofc keep in mind to adjust the suspension geometry so you don't get a too short upper a arm or make that an adjustable turnbuckle. Though for the sake of durability I'd ensure the chassis can still bottom out too the ground to reduce stress on the shock tower mounts on the car. Recently got my first tamiya here from the e-waste container at the recycling facility. A 1986 Tamiya Boomerang which thankfully has been re-released so parts are pretty easy too order still.
Those are some great suggestions, I took the other chassis out for a shake down and snapped a dog bone within 30 seconds of putting it in the dirt... so CVDs are probably a good plan. Talk about an awesome waste bin find! Boomerang should be a fun resto!
Not what I consider "vintage" Tamiya, but that's just because I'm really old. The TA01 is a very early 90's chassis, and is actually pretty sophisticated compared to the really old stuff. I've been doing this modernization of all my old RC's too, love this video!
I changed mine out a few months ago and have been periodically checking the ports to make sure they're clean. Up until yesterday they were fine but I noticed today theres some carbon in all of the ports. The washers were new and everything was torqued to spec. Any ideas for what could be causing this?
Great video, best Ive seen. Particularly full instructions and all the torque settings, and great home made solutions substituted for special tools. More like this for older mitsi motros. mines 2005 MK. Thanks
I’m not having any symptoms but decided to check anyways. I have an aftermarket radiator. The coolant was filled to the brim when I took the cap off when it was stone cold. Drove for maybe an extra 30+ seconds then you did. When I took the cap off, there was no pressure noise but hot coolant definitely came out. Left it running with the cap off and no pressure moving inside the radiator. Assuming this is normal?
I blank off my egr on 93 delica turbo. When I turn off the engine I can hear the turbo turning off few seconds after the engine is off. It is normal? Thanks.
