I started making knives and blacksmithing in 2022. On this channel I'm sharing my progress and some of my creations. Everything here was made in my garage workshop. I hope you find some inspiration in my videos.
thanks that someone else already said it... but its not only the hardening, its the folding while forging thats missing and the tempering as well... i will still leave a like for effort XD
this is great work, as someone just learning forging i am surprised that you do not have more subs, so i added one to it. i do wish you did more talking, tho i know the asmr vids are hot,, i watch while at my office job so comentary helps me when i cant have eyes on screen whole time.
Thanks for the sub! I try to do both types of vids, the asmr seems to get the most views for some channels, but I get a lot of people asking for the narrative too.
@@artmetalscience cool well i sub, an got the bell clicked, i'm having most trouble where i live finding stuff like old leaf springs, i grew up in the country and you could just go to a random uncles house and scavenge stuff from old junkers, now i have to go to a junkyard and pay to strip stuff.
Another great blade! Have you considered upgrading your grinder! Noticed your grizzly catalog as you were testing the blade there new 2 x 42 has worked really well for me! I have quite a few videos on it if you’re interested to watch them! Either way keep the videos coming!
It depends on how you hold the knife, little tight on the knuckle, good on the finger, probably depends on the size of the person's hands too, thanks for checking it out!
For those interested, the hammer I used to upset the guard was a dinging hammer. Has anyone else used this kind of hammer for any forging or other metal working, what did you use it for?
Hammer was in a junk pile got it for free, drill bit was $11, but I can still use the drill bit to drill, so basically cost was nil aside from a little silver solder
He made a new tool from a sacrificial hammer. Great example to share with so many of us who admit we are always learning. Thanks for the useful tip. I can see myself using this technique someday. KK
Is that blade tempered or are you doing that straight from quench? Also, you should show the blade finished so we can see the effect of that technique on he finished product. But, seriously cool idea.
It was quenched but not tempered. The hammering leaves marks which would need to be ground out but they’re not terrible. It was a test blade so don’t have a finished one to show but will in future video.
@@artmetalscience oh, I assumed it was after tempering. If you do it before you run the risk of introducing micro-cracks in the quenched 'brittle' steel.
@DreadX10 makes sense, the harder the steel is the more likely it will be to crack or break, but you could do it after tempering and it will still work.
@@artmetalscience I always straighten my blades during the last five minutes or so of the tempering process while blades are still hot. I lay my blades on two one inch brass rounds in a small hydraulic press and apply pressure where needed until straight and then continue on with the tempering process until cycle is completed. This process leaves no marks on the blade and in over forty years of knifemaking I've never had one break.
Some of the straightening hammers I've seen use a ball bearing on the hammer. It seems like that design would stretch the steel 360 deg. in all directions. With a bit it is mostly going to stretch the steel to the sides, mostly only in two directions, what do you think.
True, but with a ball, you always hit the same way; with a rod you need to hit parallel to the blade surface. Hitting with the end of the rod has the same effect as with a ball. So extra care needs to be taken to hit parallel. Unless you want to hit at an angle to get more sideways stretch on one side of the rod but that sounds like something that requires a lot of practice to do right.
I feel like even with that vectoring aspect of the imparted force relative to the rod impact angle, there is overall a far more effective straightening effect compared to a ball. The rod is primarily displacing material either way on a single plane, essentially polarising the force. It's absolutely an enabler for the art of fixing lateral warp in a blade. I love the idea. Historically I have just beaten them with a hammer, now I will dance with a carbide rod. Just annoyed that I didn't think of it myself.
Hello, input from a bladesmith who remade a straightening hammer from 1771 (i followed the same design, mild steel body, welded hard steel tip). The 1771 design has a V at the end, so just like you. At the beginning i didn't know exactly if it was better than the ball design we see nowadays. And because i quench in water sometimes, i have wild warps. And so after more than a year of straightening using that design, here's what i learned : the V shape is VERY useful, as it moves the steel in one direction. That means it will push the blade straight faster than with a ball design when you hit it perpendicular to the back, but most importantly, some warps happen also at the edge, for exemple making the grind asymetrical because the edge just moves out of the way. That would be very hard to fix with a ball hammer, except that with a cross peen, you can hit parallel to the edge, and push it back into place. I'm going to stick with a cross peen straightening hammer, the old smiths made it that way and it's not for no reason. They knew what they were doing, every blade quenched in water would bend, that's just how it is. So they had to straighten every single blade. I 100% trust them and my personal experience with this design leads me to the same conclusion. V is better than round.
@@DreadX10nah it's not difficult at all, i got the hang of it very quickly. It's a fairly forgiving process. Also, if you're a blacksmith you know how to use a hammer, so saying "but hitting it perpendicular is hard" isn't really a valid point, it's not hard for a guy whose job is swinging a hammer all day
wear your respirator when you sand or cut bone. antler or similar thing because that dust is hideous and gets stuck in your lungs. Its hooked when you look at it under the microscope.
The template is in bad shape after using for making the knife, it's basically the Aitor Oso Blanco, here's the link to the Aitor Knives website, you could probably print out a photo of it there: knivesaitor.com/producto/oso-blanco/
