Not sure. The tuner definitely woke it up a little (more punchy) The truck was able to wrap the speedometer. I'd never really pushed it too far beyond that. Maybe 170km/h if not a little more. It is now down for restoration so I couldn't even take it out and check. Sorry.
Yes, if the camshafts can be held in place some how. Just line up the marks as you are all set. Provided nothing moves during installation of the chain.
That's awesome man! Ur going to love it. Any questions about it please feel free to ask. Iv been thru the ringer with that sled. Which is no longer an 800. It is a 975cc John Hooper big bore with a D&D pipe
That’s sick!! I just picked mine up last weekend. I know it’s older but this one’s got 1900 original miles and it’s been well takin care of. I’m hoping to get some good use out of it. Right now the primary is sticking from sitting so long. It’s been parked for 10 years but the fuel system was drained before it was parked so just adding fuel to the tank and a handful of pulls and she fired right up and purs. I cleaned the power valves and hoping to get clutch figured out soon I don’t know much about clutches but il give it a shot
@@chickenamburgsrc go online and pick up a clutch puller. Remove, disassemble and clean. Put it back together and see how it goes. Very important Note here.....add a cup of 2 cycle oil to the fuel and treat it as if it is a new engine. If it's been sitting that long it might be a little stiff. Take it easy for the first 100ish miles. Also remove the exhaust pipe and make sure a little animal didn't make a home.
Probably the most informative how to video I've seen in a long time thanks for taking the time to explain why and how you were doing everything. I will be referencing this along the way on my son's 2002 Maxima. Hey btw, what are doing this weekend? Lol😂😂
It's a piece of junk. Leaked air during regeneration which made lots of noise (like fireworks) it also did not cycle reliably after a few months. Iv replaced my water softener since making this video. DO NOT RECOMMEND.
@@taters5586 I've wondered about converting a softener to manual regeneration like the rv style that have no valves. In theory once every couple months is all it needs
@@charliemagoo7943 iv never considered doing that. The rain fresh 42,000grain softener that id purchased has great reviews and so far is working flawlessly. Uses very little salt (3 bags since early july..including initial fill) and regenerates once every week or so depending on how much water we have used (only regenerates when it deems nessessary) I'd recommend a modern softener to anyone. We didn't realize how much flow we were loosing to the old softener either. Something to think about
Great info. I just put my cams in timing. Perfectly and I decided to turn the crank just a slight bit to allign with the mark since, I was just off by an inch. I didn't want to allign it till I knew I was in time with my cams and chain. Once I did that I put the bolt on turn it to position and herd a slight hiss of air. I was wondering if I screwed up so I walked away till next day. Thank God it's a normal sound then. 🙏 now all I gotta do is put my main chain on and turn it and pray it don't stick.
No, the retainer breaks and the guide falls. So sliding it up is pointless as there is nothing to keep it in place afterward. It needs to be replaced. Also if u are opening the engine to slide the guide back into place there is no sense reusing the old guide.
@Taters thanks I went ahead and turned the cam gears separately, each just a hair to be dead center with the line on the timing cover and got it all back together, and it's definitely off now running poorly This was my 2nd attempt. The 1st time I did it, it would not start at all. Somehow, after I set it, I guess I bumped it out of time Before the drivers side was like the right of the marking and then the passenger side was to the left of the marking but still under the line I'm guessing by me moving them to be in the middle through it off Rn I'm pulling a code for bank 2 timing over advanced But my engine sounds fine, no knocks or nothing it is just misfiring and running rough
@@BlackWidowdetailing did you set the engine on the marks BEFORE disassembly? Perhaps the crankshaft isnt where it needs to be?? *clean area and remove #1 spark plug, use compressed air blow gun and a rag to blow into cylinder if engine rotates or pressure builds and blows back when compressed air is applied then # 1 is on compression stroke. If air flows thru cylinder easily then you have set engine incorrectly. Correct to #1 compression and repeat process* if all marks are lined up as described in the video *and provided that your engine is the same vintage* then it should start and run. If you have lined everything up as shown and the engine will not run then there must be another issue. Id suggest swapping the VCT solenoids and see if the code switches banks (if so simply replace the failed solenoid) if that dosnt work have a look at your cam phasers perhaps one of them is failing.
Good job, man, but...did you actually replace the main timing chain???? Could not tell..., how about those secondary, 2 chains??/, I think would be right thing to do.....
Timing chains out live engines. It was a high milage car which my brother was planning to sell anyhow. It got a new tensioner and some other odds and ends to make it run well. He drove it for 2 years after this repair without issue and sold it to a young woman in my town who still drives it to this day. Unless you see rust, timing chains arnt really something to worry about under normal circumstances.
If off by enough degrees. Engine will run badly. If altered only slightly no noticeable change may occur. Why? Method depicted in video is definately the correct method.
@@CornDogg117 programmers on gas engines are not great. I got ahold of a placed called modular Head shop in Florida and bought a heads and cams package. Lol then i started restoring the truck.
Damn ya know i cant remember off the top of my head. Its been piped, reeds , some light port work and leaned out more since this video. But I THINK its had a 170 or a 172 main with needle centered.
Thats correct. The guides, chains and secondary tensioner were in good shape. The car ran excellent for 3 years after the repair until my brother sold it now some chick owns it and i see it around once in awhile.
@@taters5586 thanks for the quick reply I’m doin this for a customer on a Murano didn’t have a check engine light didn’t know if I needed to change everything or just failed tensioner bought the whole timing kit 🤦🏾♂️
I was changing the gali gaskets and I think I jumped a tooth so do I put it on top dead center like in the picture and the once it’s like that I make sure the gears don’t spin with a pin too lock it in place and I can take out the chain with out being out of time Then I just need to line up the chain to the little marks and I will be back in time right or no?
I am unaware of any method to pin the gears in place. Not to say such a method dosnt exist. But, if you set the engine in the position depicted it will be correctly base timed.
How come after doing the timming i started the vehicle and i can hear it knocking on one cylinder, when i disconect the injector socket it stops what cud be the cause??
Lean burn causing detonation probably. Try replacing the fuel injector. It is unlikely that the act of resetting engine timing would cause misbehavior on one cylinder only.
I'm a visual learner, so this was big help. Would've love to watched the actual work with all the f'n cus'n. Only because I see myself doing that, soon as parts get here.
I have an 04 g35 3.5L and i got codes p0011 & p0021(Bluedriver). My car on startup is making this weird clicking/metal sound(hard to explain), similar to yours but not near as bad, but once it warms up it goes away. It is stalling or almost stalls when i come to a stop so i have become a 2 footed driver at intersections just to keep the rpms up. So i assumed the CPS were bad again so i switched those out since it was easy. DIdnt fix anything. Next i went to the VVT actuators & solenoids and switched out both sides, again no fix. Code reader is giving me other fixes such as the camshaft timing sprocket which is where i was thinking of heading to next but not sure if thats even the fix. Then i found your video and this makes the most sense to what is possibly the problem. May just have to start tearing the whole front end down and hopefully something sticks out to me. Ive had the car 11 years now and its got 215k miles so not even sure if this is all worth it.
Also noticed if you look at the big cam gear(3:42mark), the timing cover behind it has a "dowel" mark on it, if at TDC all 5 areas will be point at the respected marks
@@taters5586 alright , I gotta replace my timing chain but I wasn’t sure if I could remove the upper oil pan while the engine in the car , I’m doin it at my house with jack stands and the normal stuff u kno
@@taters5586 alright I ordered the timing chain, the car what its doing right now its turning on but after 20 seconds it starts sputtering and rpms start to drop at a low idle and just stalls out, I changed out the crankshaft and camshaft sensors also the spark plugs, is It worth fixing the timing chain or just get a new engine?
You are gifted. I hope your brother gave you flowers because you sure deserve them. I have a maxima that is making this noise but not quite as bad but I don’t think I would be able to do this job. I wish Nissan would have designed them so it is easier to get to everything.
Taters, yours is by far the best video on this repair...you mentioned, there was another video on setting the timing, and making sure I'm dead on. The problem I'm having, is the smaller of the two cams on the right, isnt lining up like yours does...where yours lines up with the center of the oval opening on the face of the sprocket, and the mark on the block, mine lines up with the edge of that oval opening. Does that mean I'm one or two tooth's off? How do I fix that?
Here is link to video. This is just the bit about timing the engine. If marks dont line up as shown then something is off. Keep in mind also that this video is for the 2003 variant of VQ engine. I cannot confirm that this timing method is applicable to newer engines or not. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OyYUj56wz9I.html
Which engine in louder??? I have a yt4000 24hp but I'm planning on getting a cub cadet xt1 kohler 22hp 7000 series and I'm concerned with the noise level and engine quality.. the brings & Stratton have been the best I've seen! By the way this is the best review video i have seen ❤
Honestly id say that they are about the same in terms of decibel level when mowing. Obviously the big 600cc 1 lunger thumps along with a different sound especially when working hard (tall thick grass) But in practice id say they produce about the same levels of noise.
As far as engine quality. Kohler in my experience has always been a decent engine. We have 90 some odd hours on our kohler Courage 597, iv got the governor spring pulled snare drum tight so the machine covers more ground and performs better when cutting thick long grass on the river bank and its been a peach. Always starts easily even after sitting long periods. Id Recommend one to anyone looking for a good mower\garden tractor.
@@taters5586 I will not replace it is more like a take turns, mine has 516hr engine have never been touched the only issues I've had has been with the mowing deck had to weld it twice on the support bases other than that is the best tractor I have owned ❤ I have 3 acres of very variable terrain with high hills and this machine do the work with no complaints 💙 I guess it deserve a little rest every once a while 🤣👍 hope the cub is up for the challenge!!
Try the Husky 41 7 tooth sprocket with .325” pitch chain 0.50 gauge. I believe it “should” work on that Wild Thing. Makes a pretty big difference in cutting.
@@taters5586 right on. Ya the Husky 41’s were made by Poulan in the 90’s I believe but Husqvarna put their name/colours on it. I did that to my 36cc 2150 and it was like a different saw after. I’ve got a few vids on that saw on my channel if you want to check it out. Even threw a 20” bar on it lol. Makes for a great light limbing saw. Home Hardware sells those 52cc Clone Radley saws and they were just on sale for 149.00. Cone with an Oregon bar and chain .325” pitch. The bar bolts right on to the 2150 and oil hole is pretty close. That’s another thing I did was modified the pump slightly to oil more. That Wild Thing would get pretty Wild with a 20” bar lol
I changed my water pump and had to set the timing chain back in time and when I turned my car on it sounded deeper and louder it no longer had the vq tone anyone know why
Something moved out of time when u had the chain tension backed off. Remove your front cover and follow my instructions in the linked video to verify your timing and/or set up your camshaft timing on your VQ. Shoot me a comment with any questions and ill do my best to help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OyYUj56wz9I.html Edited to add link.
While installing new chain guide, I was pushing on the chain a bit, and the cam shafted moved slightly with a loud KLAK, as if it were under spring tension.....this repair is at, or above my skill level, so any help is appreciated
