Also noticed if you look at the big cam gear(3:42mark), the timing cover behind it has a "dowel" mark on it, if at TDC all 5 areas will be point at the respected marks
Dude, in the most Christian sense of the term...I love you. If I saw one more DIY telling me to align (shifting) painted marks on the timing chain, there were going to be casualties(!) Finding those alignment marks w/our little VQ at TDC (simple arrow on water pump cover) only required cam cover(s) removed to verify after pump replacement. You're an Awesome Wrench, brother...no lie!
I'm a visual learner, so this was big help. Would've love to watched the actual work with all the f'n cus'n. Only because I see myself doing that, soon as parts get here.
Great info. I just put my cams in timing. Perfectly and I decided to turn the crank just a slight bit to allign with the mark since, I was just off by an inch. I didn't want to allign it till I knew I was in time with my cams and chain. Once I did that I put the bolt on turn it to position and herd a slight hiss of air. I was wondering if I screwed up so I walked away till next day. Thank God it's a normal sound then. 🙏 now all I gotta do is put my main chain on and turn it and pray it don't stick.
This is fucking amazing. I'm literally just timing my chain today. You're a mad man replacing the timing cover like that tho. I remove the entire front rad clip and rad support to have full access. Idk how you're doing it with all that shit in the way.
Its an Altima. It was a very fun car to drive. Go like stink on shit. It was my brothers. Hes since sold it to a woman who we regularly see driving it still.
Note to anyone watching this vid if the timing is off there will be no spark or injector pulse..my timing was 64 degrees off..intake valves were bent..fixed them..but do not keep cranking the motor over if ur vehicle is out of time or this will happen...its a bitch to take the toming cover off and put back on...always inspect timing first by removing timing cover...ps thx for this vid taters...very helpful for my situation..i did reset timing and like an idiot i honed the cylinders replaced the piston rings and the connecting rod bearing,brand new valves ..omg never agian but lol it runs now but runs like shit very slow engine speed..and ps to everyone reading this...DO NOT HONE OUT UR CYLINDERS!! TAKE IT TO A MACHINE SHOP DO NOT TO IT URSELF...just do the timing..and if timing jumped and bent the valves only replace the valves in the heads..do not mess with the pistons or engine block or this could cause engine displacement...all though im not a machine shop i tried to save money but it didnt work out in my favor oh well....off to the junk yard for a new block😒
@Taters thanks I went ahead and turned the cam gears separately, each just a hair to be dead center with the line on the timing cover and got it all back together, and it's definitely off now running poorly This was my 2nd attempt. The 1st time I did it, it would not start at all. Somehow, after I set it, I guess I bumped it out of time Before the drivers side was like the right of the marking and then the passenger side was to the left of the marking but still under the line I'm guessing by me moving them to be in the middle through it off Rn I'm pulling a code for bank 2 timing over advanced But my engine sounds fine, no knocks or nothing it is just misfiring and running rough
@@BlackWidowdetailing did you set the engine on the marks BEFORE disassembly? Perhaps the crankshaft isnt where it needs to be?? *clean area and remove #1 spark plug, use compressed air blow gun and a rag to blow into cylinder if engine rotates or pressure builds and blows back when compressed air is applied then # 1 is on compression stroke. If air flows thru cylinder easily then you have set engine incorrectly. Correct to #1 compression and repeat process* if all marks are lined up as described in the video *and provided that your engine is the same vintage* then it should start and run. If you have lined everything up as shown and the engine will not run then there must be another issue. Id suggest swapping the VCT solenoids and see if the code switches banks (if so simply replace the failed solenoid) if that dosnt work have a look at your cam phasers perhaps one of them is failing.
The yellow marks will olny line up 1 time in 360 complete rotations of the engine. You should rotate the motor over 2 revolutions after the timing chains are lined up to verify timing marks. Hint yellow marks won't line up after 2 rotations so make your own marks with white out
I was changing the gali gaskets and I think I jumped a tooth so do I put it on top dead center like in the picture and the once it’s like that I make sure the gears don’t spin with a pin too lock it in place and I can take out the chain with out being out of time Then I just need to line up the chain to the little marks and I will be back in time right or no?
I am unaware of any method to pin the gears in place. Not to say such a method dosnt exist. But, if you set the engine in the position depicted it will be correctly base timed.
Oh another thing, I am planing to replace the left phaser ( bank 1) I think to get rid of the dreaded p0011 code. Also my oil pressure goes very low on idle and I think the culprit is oil pressure. What is your take on that?
I take that back. What I meant was when I turn the bottom shaft and align it with the mark, will that be enough to get all the points or marks in the right time. ? Thank you
How come after doing the timming i started the vehicle and i can hear it knocking on one cylinder, when i disconect the injector socket it stops what cud be the cause??
Lean burn causing detonation probably. Try replacing the fuel injector. It is unlikely that the act of resetting engine timing would cause misbehavior on one cylinder only.
Thanks for the video. I was in stitches when you were looking for the colored link. I have.a g37. Can I use this method timing my G? If so, how do I begin the process with the chain already off? I replace my water pump, now it’s time to time it and close the cover. Your knowledge will be greatly appreciated.
No dont do that. With the chain OFF MOVE crank into position as illustrated Move cams into position and have a friend hold them somehow (a wrench works well) String the chain on carefully. Let the cams free. Check alignment, adjust as necessary. Then let the tensioner out. And recheck alignment.
Yes absolutely it is. Just be careful and do things slowly. DO NOT FORCE NE THING IF CRANK OR CAMS REFUSE TO TURN CONTACT BETWEEN PISTON AND VALVES MAY HAVE OCCURED
I know this is old but I just did a head gasket on my 08 maxima and it was two faded blue mark and one yellow link my yellow link lines up with the dot on the crank sprocket
If off by enough degrees. Engine will run badly. If altered only slightly no noticeable change may occur. Why? Method depicted in video is definately the correct method.
The fly wheel or the balancer? In the case of the vq engine no (but many other engine especially diesels use flywheel or balancer for some reference of fueling or ignition timing.. The fly wheel and balancer installation position have no affect on engine timing on the VQ engine *other than the use of harmonic balancer key as reference for crank position as depicted in video*
@@taters5586 interesting. . . Yeah , when I try to start my car, it smells like it's running extremely rich . . . . I tried replacing the cam and crank position sensors and still didn't work. . . . Something keeps telling me I installed the Flywheel off timing . . But I just wanted to make sure before I start removing the transmission again. . . THANKS FOR THE HELP🙏
It’s a large leak. It’s coming from the rear of the motor on the driver side. I’ve done pressure test and I do have low compression on two cylinders. This all happened when I cracked my radiator. When I replaced it that’s when all hell broke lose. I only have 166k on it and never really had serious issues wit it
I think you may have missed the point of the excerpt. The coloured links are not being referenced, instead crank and cam position is being set in accordance with factory marks cast into the timing cover.
Yes, if the camshafts can be held in place some how. Just line up the marks as you are all set. Provided nothing moves during installation of the chain.
I need serious help I have a 03 pathfinder with this same motor. However I recently swapped the motor because it was a “mysterious “ coolant leak in the old one. Now the swapped motor is causing the same problem and it seems like it jumped time or something. Is it the water pump or did I just have two cases of bad HG?
Headbussa D-los How much coolant are you loosing over what period of time? Is coolant loss made worse when engine is hot or cold? Sounds like engine may not have been the problem in the first place. Did you happen to replace your rad cap? A failed rad cap can cause coolant loss over time as it allows coolant to be boiled off over time. Check radiator for discoloration around where the plastic tanks are crimped on. It will be green or pink depending on coolant type. **my brothers rad leaked slowly since the day he bought the car** Buy or borrow a pressure tester with appropriate adapter to fit your vehicle. Place a nice clean LARGE piece of cardboard under the vehicle *wheel to wheel wide and bumper to front floor pans long* Pressure test engine COLD to 2 PSI beyond rad cap rating. A small decrease immediately after pressurization is normal (0.25psi for example). Ideally pressure should remain indefinitely. A loss of 1psi per hour is acceptable by many OEM's Watch tester and cardboard closely for the first half hour. If tester is not moving let it sit for a couple hours then observe cardbord and pressure drop.
I know this video is old, but is there any way to turn the cam gears (while they're still connected to each other with secondary chain) without turning the whole assembly? My crank is at TDC, but the cams are off. Any help is appreciated!
Yes, you have to relieve the tension on the chain for the pair you would like to adjust (how? I do not know). Then Of course adjust them back into the correct phase. But more importantly i would try to discover why one set of camshafts had come out of phase. Perhaps there is a larger problem OR your particular engine vintage cannot be set-up using the method layed out in my video. Please keep in ming this VQ-35 engine is from 2003. A newer engine may not be marked the same
@@taters5586 so if I pull back the chain tensioner they should crank over by hand? And the reason they are off was because i messed up taking the chain off. Would you recommended putting the cams where they need to be by turning the whole assembly, then removing the primary chain, and turning the crank to TDC, or turning the crank to TDC, then figuring out how to turn the cams to where they need to be at TDC?
Rotate crank to 1 TDC. Leave it in place. Correct the cam set in ur first comment. U can get someone to help u hold inplace if need be. Then install ur secondary chain. Hang ur primary chain. Adjust cams go correct position. Double check everything in still is correct spot then let the primary tensioner go.
@@taters5586 thank you dude, you're amazing for still responding to such an old post, and giving out all this free advice. I appreciate the help, now i just gotta cross my fingers and hope i dont mess up haha.
@@taters5586 alright , I gotta replace my timing chain but I wasn’t sure if I could remove the upper oil pan while the engine in the car , I’m doin it at my house with jack stands and the normal stuff u kno
@@taters5586 alright I ordered the timing chain, the car what its doing right now its turning on but after 20 seconds it starts sputtering and rpms start to drop at a low idle and just stalls out, I changed out the crankshaft and camshaft sensors also the spark plugs, is It worth fixing the timing chain or just get a new engine?
didnt hold cams in place. just looped chain and set timing one side at a time using the marks shown. then let the tensioner out and rechecked the marks...rotated 360 and rechecked a second time. everything was A-ok. car runs excellent to this very day.
quick question when putting the crankbolt back on and you have to torque to spec if the crank moves a little will the timing be off or is better to use a impact gun to prevent it from moving
After you put all the marks on the right place and all chain tensioners it not affected at all if it move when you tight it but the impact wrench helps a lot
Thats correct. The guides, chains and secondary tensioner were in good shape. The car ran excellent for 3 years after the repair until my brother sold it now some chick owns it and i see it around once in awhile.
@@taters5586 thanks for the quick reply I’m doin this for a customer on a Murano didn’t have a check engine light didn’t know if I needed to change everything or just failed tensioner bought the whole timing kit 🤦🏾♂️
Is it possible to have all cam gears aligned, but crankshaft being one full turn off? I think I accidentally put everything back together aligned perfectly but crankshaft 1 full turn off... but I know cylinder 1's piston was at the highest point. Car doesn't start, smell fuel and it ran for only 3sec.
Mike Ocampo if the crankshaft were one full turn off the piston would again be at top dead center. if crank is rotated 360 degrees piston is returned to origional position again. your camshafts are not oriented correctly if vehicle will not start OR they were aligned correctly but you failed to tighten the cam chain tensioner and it jumped out of time. if all was set up as depicted in this video the engine should start.
Mike Ocampo here is a link to the complete repair video i made. from 45:00 onward is setting up the timing chain and tensions ect ect it may help you ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y_C_iIguxLU.html any more questions please feel free to comment and ill answer them as best i can
Crank can be out of phase with cam sets in any degree increment upto 360 or you are right back where u started from. I think you may be thinking your 180 degrees out of time.. But if the engine was set up as shown in these videos it could not be. Only thing i can think may have happened is As for your valves, i am not sure if this engine is non-interference or not so its tough to say. 1 - you positioned the cam sets to the incorrect markings (dowl pin pointed down) 2 - you failed to tighten the cam chain tensioner and as soon as the chain whipped during engine crank it jumped out of time
Question. How did you get the timing cover back on? The bottom gasket that clips on to the cover keeps popping off when I try to put the cover on! Any tips??
No gasket in my case. The manufacturer used RTV sealant. If you are finding it difficult to keep the gasket in place you could use a bit of silicone or grease (yes grease) Form a few small beads and stick the gasket in place.
marc pierre Oops. Brain fart. I know what your talking about now. The section of rubber under the crank. Make sure its the correct one!!! I was shipped one which was too long and it kept coming off. In any case. You could use a small amount of sealant to stick it in place while you set the cover in place. For the love of all that is good and holy do NOT let it dry prior to cover install. Clean and dry the seal area. Apply a reasonable layer of sealant *you are not icing a cake* stick the rubber seal in place and press it down. INSTALL THE COVER RIGHT AWAY. "Ultra grey" or "the right stuff" *both made by permatex* work best as they are impervious to oil and are recommended by many manufacturers. High temp red silicone does not work well in applications where componant shift or flex is likely. It also breaks down with prolonged exposure to oil.. So i do not recommend it for engine assembly or really much of anything.
Taters yeah I think the one I ordered was too big. I did see remnants of sealant from the previous rubber, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the quick reply
Itzel Itzai Ian Benitez Vergel this video is a segment of a disgnostic and repair video i made for a slapping sound my brothers car was making. if you watch the first 3 or 4 minutes of this video *link* you will see what the issue was. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y_C_iIguxLU.html
The mark on the crank and its indicator on the backside of the cover is number one TDC.. I bring this to light because none of the service literature that i had (hanes manual) or was able to find(mitchell on demand) said anything about indicators on cover and rotating members. Im not quite sure what you meant by your question. But i hope i answered you well enough
Hey That marks can work but they are not the exactly timing marks On the back cover Has 2 marks on each side One on top the other on the side Right side one is at 12:00 the other at 3:00 Left side one is at 12:00 the other at 9:00 The right side on the big gear is a line and one teeth has a little hole well that has to be aligned with the back cover at 12:00 The little gear has 2 lines they has to be between the cover mark at 3:00 Left side on the big gear is same at 12:00 And the little gear has 2 points has to be between the mark at 9:00 You can see same mark on the bottom of the cover Has to be aligned with the point has the crankshaft gear I hope you all understand what I try to explain just pay attention on the back cover you will see the 5 marks what I talking about
The engine ran for over a year with no timing codes (or any other codes for that matter) before my brother sold it to someone who is still running it around. If those indicators i used werent appropriate the engine would have either performed poorly on some level (which it did not) or thrown a timing code (which it did not) No markings other than the ones depicted in the video were observed on either the inner or outer timing covers.
Arana willy clearly you dont have to remove the engine. as shown in the video. and secondly there is absolutely no way in hell anyone is pulling the engine out of this car in their shop at home in 1.5 hrs....but thanks for watching
Nperez1986 maybe previous owner. secondly this engine has over 230,000 kms on it so some deposit collection in areas where the oil vapors are able to collect or where the oil is allowed to settle and get hot is not abnormal. as for oil my brother runs either Mobile 1 or Pennzoil Platinum which ever is on sale.
Oh no doubt...I have a motor with 57k miles...same thing previous owner :( ...on my other Nissan (I bought from new), with almost 100k miles, clean from day one :)
