thanks for uploading ...it informative...but want to say....please upload 5 axis multi axis lessons .... because there are so many other channels that already provided 3 axis lessons and tutorials..... so please please make advance 5 axis tutorial that no one willing to provide........
How difficult would it be to turn a UHMWPE spool 3" OD x 2" wide with a 1" arbor? How would I make a center hole for a piece of shafting with a tolerance of 0.2490-0.2495 I need the spool to turn freely, but with zero slop and super smooth? Would a center hole 0.254" in diameter be enough clearance? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Similar to how I do it (machine flats), but instead I type in mdi a g43 line reading my tool height abs go to z1.0. (I wont rapid to 1.0 and I'll be far from the 5th). I then hand crank flats on material. Measure part. If 2.002, I'll drop g57 z-.001. This method is a 2 wrongs make a right method because you're at the mercy of the tool setter. I'm trying to figure out a better way after I've machined a square up at B0.
I noticed the same small error some time after making this video. To dial it in I cut some stock into a square with 4 facing passes in CAM software. Then do a contour or profile pass of the same square from above. Then adjust my offsets until they facing and profile passes match seamlessly. Then its perfectly aligned! Hope that made sense.
Hi there, yea man its still a good machine it has had a couple issues over these years but nothing major and nothing really expensive to fix. We still use it to this day. This thing has cut 90% stainless in its life and has held up. I won't hold tolerance as over long periods of time like a bigger machine but does more than adequate. This machine has more than paid for itself for sure. Thanks for the question. Daniel
Title should be how to throw a 4th axis inside a machine while not giving a shit. I would never throw my hrc210 into my machine like that. Throwing it up on top of the windows ledge slamming it down. You might be able to lift it but it’s too heavy to be placing in the machine by one person or even two. Bring a lift But that’s champions. My machine came in the rain with the foil cover cut away. Had a thin plastic slip over it. Machine was wet. Not soaked but a 1-1/2 hour in the rain from spring to my place with the protective cover cut off of it left a bad taste in my mouth. That and everything just tossed inside the machine enclosure had left me wondering if when I purchase my first 5 axis or y axis in the coming months if I want to trust haas and champions. Even the head office at haas seems to care less. Spent over 130,000 to be treated like just schooled me even more on how not to be with customers.
We should build a coolant proof camera case with one of those mini spinning wheels like the fancy VMCs have to keep the window free of coolant.... I would buy one but I can't seem to find any for sale
@@dnjmachine or we could make a camera case with an air knife like edge precision did but then we wont be able to hear anything over the blowing air noise on the footage
I just did a small 30PC run on my desktop machine a EMCO Compact 5 Lathe with the high precision3 jaw chucks O.D. jaws. It was 2.5 diameter and the customer wanted .500 thick x 1.622 dia bore. I quickly learned that HSS SHARP (New) tooling worked best. In fact I used a 2 flute HSS endmill as a boring bar with excellent results. The I.D. was for a press fit bearing which I had no problems holding. UHMW doesn't like heat and you must use SHARP Tooling, the chips can be controlled by interrupted cuts. In this above video the final O.D. and 2 chamfers could have been done on one operation. To avoid the chips balling up near the spindle use the final pass stating at the headstock and travel towards the tailstock. This way the chip will be pushed off the part & you can save an operation. Programming is easier than you think as well.
Hey Daniel. Good to see you guys are still enjoying more growth within your business. Seems to be a common scenario at the moment post covid. Everyone is busier than ever. I'm still working most days trying to keep in front of all the work that's coming in. With this never-ending busier than ever time. I have purchased a new CNC Lathe. My Mazak Mission has be parked until I have time to get back to doing more on it. I haven't really done much else on it since my last video. Hope you are keeping well. All the best with your latest purchase. Peter 👍
@@nickking8317 Sorry I don't know much about knife making, how small of items are we talking and also what material and tolerance you need? This lathe is only going to make cylindrical parts.
It really depends on your needs. If you have the space and power requirements I would go better, if not Tormach may be your choice. I will give and example. The Tormach 15 SL is 26K with turret right now (not including tooling and such at least 2K more). Its small can fit in garage an run off house power. It will work for most your hobby work and we have used it for production for quite a few years now. We've run tons of stainless on the machine but nothing that +-.002 would matter. In contrast we also bought a used Okuma for 40K it was Dual spindle, Dual turret, box ways, supports living tooling and has C axis it also came with a few thousand dollars in tooling. However this machine will not fit into your garage or run off house power and took an 18wheeler to deliver and riggers to put in place. However it will spit out parts withing a few tenths across 100s of parts and about 3 times as fast as the Tormach. So for about 12K more we got much much more machine. I would suggest getting the best you can and that your space can hold, don't forget as you get bigger machines come more costs like delivery and riggers to put in place. Having said all that The Tormach has been a reliable machine that has been better than we thought it would be. Hope this helps some
Thanks for sharing. How are you making the initial cut into the material? I've tried plunging with a 1/4" 4-flute carbide end mill and had it wander and then break on 316L. Trying to mill a flat spot for to drill into If you could share your RPM, cutting diameter, and the depth of cut you start with, that would also be helpful.
For 304 Stainless I use 5FL lakeshore carbide endmills. I wouldn't plunge into it, I always lead into the part with something if possible. If not, I would ramp in at maybe 12IPM at about 2900 rpm. Preferred method would be with a lead in and 5FL endmill I use 2900 RPM and 285 SFM (43 ipm) Hope that helps. -Daniel
My man. Nice work. Let me help you out with machining/grinding nomenclature. You are using an Arbor on that setup. A mandrel has a taper to lock the workpiece. Many people in this trade get that wrong. I did too. Helps to be taught by old school tool makers. Salute!
Mark, I assume the handle was broken in shipment, did Smithy fix this for you? How undersized was the bore? And, would you purchase from them again? Thanks for sharing.
I don't make the trunnion Chip from moreside fixtures does. Here is his link, this model isn't on his website you have to email or call him. moresidefixture.com/ with the vise its about 33 LBS
Sorry for the late reply things have been crazy. I like the mods you made to the board, my problem was a bit different. Wasn't the relays but something else it literally burned some surface mound resistors off the board. Cheers -Daniel
Your absolutely correct, I should go back and edit (I don't know how to modify without relisting) i was very excited at the time and had that number stuck in my head.
