Just a comment to state that the most important thing ti get correct is the stylus being at the 22 degree angle to the record which replicates the angle the needle is that cuts the grooves. Just a thought. I have enjoyed your uploads and thank youfie making them.
Thank you for the video. I just picked up a TD150 after watching your video. Unfortunately the bias weight is missing. Could someone tell what is the actual weight of the bias weight so that I could make one using either a nut or lead shot for fishing. Thank you
just got myself the TD160B mkII, when I select 45rpm the height adjuster is high, so much so that it rubs against the underside of the platter causing a grindign noise, you can see the mark on the underside of the platter where it has been rubbing, now I don't want to bend it, does that screw allow for the adjustment of this? In 33 it works fine.
Did the foam do any harm ?would removing it only make the deck less compliant and more open to potential , unforeseen problems an owner may have in the future and placement of the deck ? Metal against metal etc increasing potential vibration without the small bits of foam . Is it perhaps making it a less forgiving turntable ? you have reasons but I wonder , were those Thorens Engineers just sticking bits on because they had some bits of foam lying around or did they have a purpose , I suspect those infamously precise Swiss and German engineers didn’t often use nonfunctional materials or casually insert foam in springs, I’m sure they’d have considered their design carefully , a design that is one of a line of classic turntables .. I often see people removing bits , adding others and always thinking they’ve ‘ improved’ the original design when perhaps they’ve actually made a sideways move or possibly downgraded the tables effectiveness . A little like removing a pesky rubber grommet or washer .
As I explain in the video, the foam is designed to dampen the suspension a little, which may be a help if the deck is on a wobbly or unstable surface. I explain that it is my preference to remove the foam for decks which have a solid support because an unfettered spring will give maximum isolation from chassis-borne vibrations. You are of course free to retain the foam if you wish, but bearing in mind that many other spring suspended decks do not have any foam at all, I think it is entirely reasonable to consider it optional, not essential.
When it starts to slip, typically a belt will last 5 years +. But it depends on the amount of use and atmospheric conditions. Surprisingly, a belt will last longer when it is used regularly. If you are going to store or not use a player for a while, it is best to remove the belt and store it in an airtight plastic bag or box. It will last better at rest.
I have a td125 mark11 tirn table given to me as a gift. I want set it up to my rx v630 yamaha receiver. Will the set-up run w/ out a a pre Amp? What will the 11:14 rca cables connect from turn table to receiver?
To be fair, I gave the simple 'piece of string' method as well as the mathematical calculation so you can follow which ever method of measurement you feel most comfortable with. Regards GB
My Thorens td 150 MKII (just like the one in the video) which I have started to refurbish does not have a separate ground cable. Do you have any advise on how to add one?
As you will see in our video, the earth/ground cable attaches to the steel sub-chassis with a self-tapping screw. The cartridge output wires each have their own ground so the function of the separate wire is to make sure that the metal parts of the sub-chassis are at the same electrical potential as the signal earth to avoid picking up hum. Two things to note: take care that the cable has a loop between the fixing point on the sub-chassis and the P-clip or saddle clip on the chassis. This will enable the deck to float properly, as shown in the video. Also take care that the screw is not so long that it touches the chassis and fouls the suspension. If there is not a fixing hole already, choose a location which is clear of any obstructions. Good luck.
Being parallel doesn't mean it's correct being twisted can be a better option, doesn't mean it's out of alignment you should have checked it before correcting it.
@@jacekhabrajski8440 Yeah but it's down to the zenith it has been noted it's been as much as 17 degrees off and on the average is 2 1/2° off no cartridge is completely correct and got nothing to do with cost.
The from is important is dampening the spring from vibrations and I would add double the amount need to be a bit thicker. The from has got nothing to do with instability. Ideally you want to drill a 2 inch hole below the main spindle of the bottom covered hardboard and put some draft excluder around the edge, it doesn't matter if it's hardboard or anything stiffer hardboard is better actually than stiffer materials but it has to be open really no bottom at all is the best solution. When you have a closed box it causes resonance in Lower frequencies below 100 hertz similar principal when having the dust cover on when playing. Use some packs of jelly as feet underneath, Best isolator
Some interesting hacks there, thanks for sharing. Totally agree about the importance of reducing resonance. Sorry, but I beg to differ regarding the foam in the springs. If you put more foam in them, their function as isolators will be impaired and vibration will be able to pass through from the chassis to the sub-chassis. Without foam, the springs provide the maximum isolation for the floating sub-chassis. However, as I said in the video, the shelf/support needs to be very stable and vibration free. A good support could be anything from a well supported 12mm plywood shelf to a slab of concrete, so long as it can't move. GB
@@gbaudio1212 no it's a complete opposite with the foam think about it! You're not preventing isolation you're adding to isolation by using the foam, springs have a resonance to them and you need to damp that resonance the springs resonance, the foam dampens it. I actually put a thicker piece of foam at the top 15mm thick pushing at the outside of the spring, I don't think the foam is thick enough at the bottom, I replaced that as well pushing against the springs so it leaves an imprint in the foam, foam is the best isolator you can get, its mainly air about 97% is air but of course it doesn't have the structure ability to hold up the sub chassis and platter what you need it to dampen it, springs metal resonate you've got rubber but that's not enough I don't believe you need the foam what is better than the rubber on its own. I can't see your logic why you think foam is going to prevent isolation? makes no sense. I've just done a test with a fork try it get a fork and a washing up sponge when you put the handle of the fork to your ear you can hear the ringing in the fork when tapping the fork prongs, stick the fork through the sponge so there's about an inch sticking out and then tap it or flick it with your nail and you're here it deadens the ring eliminates it, its the same principle for a spring, metal is a great transfer of noise. That's why I always thought the foam wasn't adequate enough, and I made it wider and added a piece on the wider part of the spring as well on both ends and just left the spring open in the middle. Try you got nothing to lose you can always take it out again but I'm sure you won't. I think there's another benefit as well it makes the whole table a bit stiffer I've noticed on Linn upgrade kits the springs are thicker metal than original and I think that is the same case on the Thorens. You could try a thin piece of Cork on either end of the spring as well something that's about three or four millimeter thick, along with the rubber that will give you even more isolation I don't see people doing that but the principle should be good. Is actually what they use in the main bearing at the bottom it's cork a piece of plastic and a steel shim well on the 160 anyway probably the same with the 150..
I hopefully you can answer my question, I have the old style grado GT cartridge blue in colour, can I change to Stylus Needle Pickup Cartridge Grado Prestige Blue?
There are many standard headshells which will fit the JVC, Technics and other Japanese turntables with an 'S' shaped arm. We sell an ultra-low-mass headshell for £12.41 with regular wires or £27.95 with Van-Damme wires. gbaudio.co.uk/data/cartridges.htm
Hello from Germany! I just purchased a td 150, coming from dual 510 and this being my first Thorens, your channel helped me a lot, thank you very much! I had to replace the cartridge cables and installed an at 95e; now this turntable sings again!its just great. What a wonderfull little machine😊
Hello. I have a Nikko NP-500 table which measures exactly the same size. But, being a short-lived brand, I cannot seem to find any replacement parts for it. What is the model number of your Marantz so that I may just look that part up? Thanks.
This turntable is A Marantz TT5005 and there is a link to the online shop in the description text above, where you will find the correct replacement belt.
Hello,I have a Aiwa model ap-1200c turntable.My belt size is the same as yours on the video.Can you tell me where you bought yours.I'm not having any luck finding one for my Aiwa. Thanks.
Great video, belt kit ordered......:-) Can I ask a tech question...? I want to transfer some old studio tapes from the mid '80.s onto my pc. I have connected my B77 output to the line in on the pc but I'm not getting any sound out. The headphone sockets are fine and i'm pretty sure the signal is getting to the pc. Do I need to install Audacity to transfer the tapes to my pc? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Hi Steve. Yes you will need some sort of recording software. Audacity is excellent for this sort of thing but I guess other apps are available. Once installed, go into Preferences and select the line input as the recording source. Hit Record and you should see the input meters lighting up. From memory, you may need to select Monitor Thru in order to hear what you’re recording as it goes in. Good luck, GB
Hello, and thank you for the videos! I have to ask, is the step where you dial to 0 without the counterweight and headshell mandatory? Is it wrong to start the process with these on?
No, you can start the balancing process with the head shell and counterweight on the tonearm. I just thought it would be easier to introduce the various moving or detachable parts in this way.
What a great video. My longer belt was in fact broken. The one with the teeth was fine. I ordered a replacement kit on your website. Thanks for making this. I did notice on my unit that when I slide my lever accross to the left it engages the preamp but the transport mechanism head cover does not close or move. I can manually lift it but it does not stay up. If I let it go it goes back down. Not a big deal but I am curious why when I slide the lever over to the left the head cover does not move up and close and cover the tape head? Any ideas? Do you work on these units? Do you replace capacitors and tape heads as well ? Just curious. Going to take a closer look at your website. Thanks again for a great video.
Thanks for your kind comments. What you are doing there with the slide lever is engaging the machine in edit mode: the tape is brought up to the heads and you can wind the spools manually to find the point in the tape which you want to edit. With the head guard open, you can accurately mark the tape ready for cutting.
Sir, I have this turntable.The rotates in the correct direction when the record is played but during payback itself the platter stops and starts rotating in the opposite direction. What could be the issue?
Strange, I've never encountered that issue before. I would try removing the platter and drive belt and let the motor run for a while without a load. Check if the motor runs in the correct direction.
Thank you for your response.Really it is a very different issue from the various issues of tt.I removed platter but without removing the main rubber belt ,I observed that the inner plate would rotate in the correct direction and then would stop momentarily and then rotate in the reverse direction.Really it is quite intriguing.I think that it will require the change of motor and the power pcb of the unit.But unable to find the same.
That sounds like the micro switch for the motor is stuck in the ON position, not uncommon with decks which have not been used for a while. The micro switch is under the deck and it engages with the tonearm when in the rest position. A little squirt of switch cleaner should free it.
It should not be a problem, however, I'm not really a fan of weights, preferring to just invest in better core equipment rather than gizmos. If you're concerned about adding weight, a spindle clamp would be a lighter way of securing the record to the platter. Good luck.
My 505-1 has a blue GT Grado cartridge, i cant find the stylus for it, any suggestions on replacing with a new cartridge with stylus? The Grado stylus for Grado GT phono cartridge - For US sale only 65 dollars, no UK sales?
If you have one of the adaptor plates, then any low mass cartridge with standard bolt spacing will work and it's then just a matter of personal choice which sound you prefer or which suits your system.
Please watch the whole video. It shows how to balance the arm (0g tracking weight), set the gauge disc to 0 and then add the required weight, in this case 1.5g. The anti skate should be the same as the tracking weight, ie 1.5g.
Sorry, I don't know the belt size for that machine. If you can remove the old belt, measure it and deduct 7 or 8% to allow for stretch, that will be approximately the right length. If the belt has disintegrated, run a piece of cotton or wire around the drive path, measure it and deduct 7-8%. Then select the closest matching belt from our chart at gbaudio.co.uk/data/belts2.htm
