Currently driving a 2000 Subaru Outback with the 2.5L H4. I love the car, what do you recommend for a car? Looking at a XT trim wagon or SUV or going WRX. Is buying a WRX/XT trim risky or am I better off buying the 3.0/3.6R in the future? Just wondering what's best for best potential horse power and longevity with out buying a Honda. I like Subaru better they are different then Honda and Toyota and have more soul to be honest. Toyota' and Honda's are boring cars.
@@FuJiNF medium power increase nothing fancy that's all. Are the Forester XT's and Impreza WRX's money pits as they age? Just wondering what you think. I like the EJ25 so far. Was looking for a Ford Crown Victoria with a 4.6L or a Chevy Suburban with a 5.3L. I ended up with this car because it is what made my pocket book really happy at the time. I can only drive a wagon or a SUV like a SUB. I will never go with a compact SUV like a Jeep or any thing smaller then a Forester. You wanna talk money pits? Try a 2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI on for a size reference. Will NEVER drive VW again. Or any Euro car no matter how fancy or elegant they are. I want the same car I have with a mild power up grade. That is it.
@Outback69 the Forester XT is not bad. Since they're getting of age, find one from the west coast or south. Less to minimum rust. 04-08 has rear strut tower rust issues, but are easiest to modify. Some of my videos has my silver 04FXT auto. Easy to mod and fun to drive because it is pretty compact. As with any turbo subaru, the have their turbo problems. Just keep the setup very simple and effective. Mod only what's needed. I love my '13 Toyota Tundra! Does a lot more than my 04FXT. Very versatile and good utility. A bit large being a full size truck, but good turning radius for this generation Tundra. Low range 4WD is very useful.
@@FuJiNF Yes, I plan to use the vehicle for Hot Tent Camping and running RC Boats in the summer time. I have a 46" Gas Boat kit that I am assembling and a RC Tug boat that I am assembling as a retrieval unit. Here is a monkey wrench for you... What do you think of a H6 engine? Are they junk or just a pain in the ass to work on? Not looking for a race car here. I am looking for something that's the same thing I have now but a medium power increase. I don't like how my car screams at 50MPH. Not the ride at all but I am just thinking that my tranny is just yelling at me to upshift even though I don't have any more gears. I love manuals. I want the same thing I got but down size it. Just keep it a couple years newer and lower milage around 150-175K miles before shit goes bad. I am lucky, I have a brand new engine in the car. I am just trying to think about it as soberly as possible and go from there. I know what state the world is in and where we are at with supply chain shit. I am just trying to keep it sane but want something a bit more capable with out all the bells and whistles. I had a 1997 Buick LeSaber with a 3.8L V6. That thing rode like a couch and felt like a race car was pretty fast. I got a car that rides similar to it but I want the power that 3.8L has with out the typical American car issues they come with. So yeah, this car is pretty sweet. Reminds me of my first car. Wanna stay with this style of vehicle but wanna get something with lower miles and keep it long term like 10 years with out trouble. Would rather install head gaskets then have a car payment at this point. Considering most car payments are $725 a month with a 30% interest rate... That's just my thoughts- WS
Thank you so much for this tutorial. The "cam" sensor that sits on the end of the housing is for counting teethes. Is it important to have the same number of teethes when swapping between the TZ diff and TV diff?
The TZ transfer clutch reads on the drum, which is connected to the tailshaft. The TV center diff reads it on the sprocket at the output shaft. There are no same teeth count on the TV diff for the TZ TCU to read. Better to swap the TV TCU in place or a simple 12v switch for lockup when needed.
@Klaus_liHao i did not have the TCU to control the VTD diff. Therefore the other option was to put the FWD fuse in so the factory TCU doesn't throw DTCs. The switch was put in to manually force voltage to the solenoid so it opens allowing the oil pump in the tranny to send hydraulic fluid to the piston to compress the clutch pack on the VTD diff.
When you swap in the VTD center differential, it's full-time-AWD by design. We don't have fancy diff like the one found on say a USDM Toyota Sequoia, where it can be RWD, AWD Hi/Lo, 4WD Hi/Lo. The FWD fuse was intended for the multiplate clutch AWD system only. That is a FWD system that uses a transfer clutch to drive the rear wheels. When I have the VTD center diff swapped in, I use the FWD fuse to disable the factory transfer clutch solenoid. This is because I don't have the VTD TCU. A DTC code will pop up if I don't use the FWD fuse. That code reads that there is a difference in front/rear wheel speeds due to the different teeth count where the sensor picks up on the output shaft of the VTD diff. The multiplate transfer clutch AWD reads the teeth count on the park gear.
I know this is an old video, but I thought the VTD swap was supposed to give the Forester a 45/55 front/rear power split at all times until the diff is locked then its 50/50?
The split is 45:55. It is just that without the clutch pack locked, the planetary gear center diff just functions like an open diff. If the front wheel lift, it will spin, and likewise if a rear wheel lifted. When I go off the road with the welded rear diff, the front wheel often spins first when I don't have the center diff locked. That's because the front diff is still an open diff and it is more prone to spin whereas the rear is a welded diff. The rear is less likely to spin because BOTH needs to spin. The only other times where one would think that the rear should ALWAYS have more torque based off the torque split are AWD systems where it is REAR drive with a clutchpack or coupler that drives the front. That's a system that found in the Nissan GTR AWD, Hyundai Genesis AWD, and other systems that can disable AWD and become RWD only. It's those systems that one would think when looking at "wheel spin" will say they can see the torque split.
@@FuJiNF Thank you for your offer, I already have my VTD but the only thing I will like to know is the 2 shim rings that go in the back. How necessary are both of them? I have the 0.5 one, the 0.2 was damaged.
@@betto9gdl that'll determine how well the gears of the tailshaft meshes with the planetary gears. If it is within the window, no big deal. The only time they really rotate is when the rears or fonts are really spinning. At that point the clutch pack would have engaged if you have the TCU. No TCU and no switch to lock it and the gears will just spin when you over power the tires. If normal driving, the whole center diff rotates as one. When you give throttle, torque load pushes the VTD diff towards the rear due to the angle of the gears. So that shim thickness keeps the teeth meshed together.
Great, im going to swap MPT to VTD . I just confused. What's the oem number of clutch plates?There are some different options for the thickness of the clutch plates. Thanks in advance :)
@FuJiNF Have u had any color shifting on ur LD Plus switchback? Some people own this and later on, it acts weird and u will run on half white light and yellow light. And I just bought it yesterday and the anti-flicker system. So I’m wondering if I had those issues? And would a Lasfit - Anti flicker system would fix that problem, and will put the color shift back to its lighting position again?
When i was playing with turning on/off the fog lights to switch colors, one would at times not change then i get the one yellow, one white. I simply just turn off the headlights and they will reset when i turn the headlights back on. I'll definitely keep an eye for the color change though. I typically look at the reflection on other vehicles to see if my lights are working, dead or which color on the fog lights.
@@FuJiNF sounds good dude. Having more than one kelvin lights is a bit much for an led bulb. Hopefully the anti flickers, or resistors will help prevent that.
@@FuJiNF Awesome thanx, do u know Vtd supported TCU can make F50/R50 after VTD placement on slippery conditions? ( without FWD fuse in) or do i need fwd fuse even if i install vtd supported tcu? I wanna run smoothly after swap. Like the original vtd distribution.
@@umutooo the VTD TCU will just apply lock when it engages, which just makes it 50:50. Driving around town with the VTD without lockup drives fine in snow. It's just when you get in deep stuff is when you'd get front wheel spin or rear depending which corner digs into the snow first. Usually in the deep stuff i just lock it ahead of time if i feel i need to.
Direct swap on the transmission. You'd have to figure out the lockup switch to engage the clutch pack. Find the wire for your year, put a switch on the wire. Some people have gotten creative to adding resistors so to not throw a trouble code from the tranny. I know what code it's throwing so i don't mind the flashing ATF light. I just cycle the ignition key off/on after the obstacles.
Torq Locker is available for Subaru rear diffs now. No welding necessary. It slips right in place of the spider gears. Cusco LSDs are available for front and rear Subie diffs too. They're a bit pricier than the locker though, and require re-meshing the R&P gears. My hesitancy to use a Subie for serious offroad is largely due to the low, vulnerable/fragile, plastic bumper covers...and the lack of a decent 4Low. Modern Jeep CUVs have similar vulnerabilities. A Suzuki Samurai or 4cyl Jeep CJ/YJ/TJ can do perfectly fine offroad, with even less power than a 2.0L Subie Crosstrek, because of good gearing and high-clearance steel bumpers/rockers. Lockers and anti-swaybar disconnects can improve them all offroad.
When its FWD just push it down slowly to the gas pedal and find that sweet spot for traction but he goes and stops and floors it down the gas pedal and front tires starts spinning so do not fool us. Blizzak's are nice tires on snow if you know how to use them.