I've built my career around buying and renovating properties to add value for selling, flipping or for building a rental portfolio . Garden rooms, attic conversions, extensions and kitchens are my thing and I hope I can share that learning to help you in your own development projects.
I started this channel in order to share the difficulties and challenges that I experienced on the way, I will discuss issues like purchasing, designing, planning , financing and constructing, using the various small property projects undertaken over the past few years. Projects with real estate you are likely to be involved in at some time as well.
Great video, I’ve been installing sip kits for a while and I’ve noticed a lot of people wanting to build out of sips are looking to make green homes, ultra modern homes , energy efficient and make them air tight etc
Ive just come across your channel and you're making some of best property and diy content on RU-vid. Videos are well thought out and informative. Thank you.
I just think in your video you do need to be careful how you worded things as I think you are talking about doing electrical work in Scotland. Yes the Electrical Regs are the same across the UK, this is where it ends though as Building Regs are slightly different in other parts of the UK. Work that is notifiable in Scotland can be slightly different than the rest of the UK and they require a warrant to be completed in Scotland by the installer as well as the certificates. It is always best if your unsure to contact local building control as to what is required. As for the technical side, you maybe should have mentioned that you also needed the electrician that is signing off the work to design the circuits; and that he has given you your cable shopping list. On the Insurance side anyone that is attempting to carry out the work and thinks that you can just get the Electrician in at the end to just do the testing and issue a certificate, you will be lucky as they are legally carrying the can for your work and probably will not do it. Not involving an electrician from the start of a project will most likely void your insurance if the worst was to happen. That is not the case here from what I've seen in the video.
Hi, I’m about to build a workshop in my garden (timber frame, insulated and clad), and I’ve looked at other peoples builds-sheds, garden rooms etc. I noticed a lot of people are using 4x2 cls but with 400 centres in the wall studs. In your video, you say you are using 600 centres. Any idea why people are building garden rooms with 400 centres? Are they over engineering or am I missing something? Great video by the way 👍
Hi. Good question. Yes, for a 2.5 to 3m high wall, 400 centres is not only over engineered, it’s a bad detail as it creates even more thermal bridging where you’re putting insulation between. I don’t understand why so many do it. 600 centres with 4 x 2 is more than enough provided you use noggins at mid points and OSB sheathing. 2 storey mass build timber frame homes are all at 600 centres with 4 x 2 CLS
@@build-better-things thanks for the swift reply. I was looking at it and wondering why, especially as you use more timber. Another side question to that f I may - would you recommend cls or treated carcassing timber for my purpose? It will be boarded with something inside but I’m just in the process of looking at costs and also wondering why people use smooth planed timber when it’s for stud frames and will be hidden.
@MrGrantspants for the very small difference in cost, I would always choose CLS treated. Less irregularities and easier to get plumb and level therefore. Plus you gain 5mm-10mm of floor space all around. But not really a big deal and go with what you fancy.
This video is depressing. so much bureaucratic BS! uk looks like communism. the thought of it make me feel sick. now they have "building regulations approval" seriously? humans have been building shelters to 2 million years but suddenly all that s**t is "necessary". So glad I don't live there!
Hi Jerry. How do you fasten 50mm insulation externally over the studs? How would i then fasten render board over the pir? Im assuming I'll need some sort of DPM between render board and PIR. Thanks again.
Put a couple of temporary fixings through the insulation into the studs , to support your insulation, then add your breather membrane, then you fix your vertical battens through the insulation and into your studs using tube washers and fasteners which will also support your insulation. Then you add counter battens and then your render board.
@@build-better-things Amazing thanks! What if I don't want the ventilation behind the render board in the interest of making the wall as thin as possible? Can I use some sort of waterproof render that will keep the rain off the wall? I'll have a good quality vapour control layer on the inside so no moisture will get through in to the studs from inside. Similarly if the render is perfectly waterproof then the studs will remain high and dry permanently. I know some of the EWI manufacturers claim their silicone render can provide that degree of waterproofing to the outside. What do you think?
@@build-better-things Thanks Jerry, I'll definitely keep the ventilation gap. I've got a load of 10mm battens that I can use as vertical battens and counter battens = 20mm gap. Is that adequate or is more required? Also, can you help me understand the science of ventilation gaps. What exactly is the ventilation gap drying out if water can't get in from inside or outside? Thanks again.
@@DoctorRetina strictly speaking needs to be 50mm but for a single story you might be ok at 20 if you’re really set on reducing the depth. Need to have gaps or vents too and bottom. The purpose of the ventilated cavity is two fold. To allow vapour to evaporatethrough the breather membrane, combat any dew point , as well as any residual moisture that gets in through damp or the outside. Look up “rain screen” to get a full description as I can’t do it here
Cavities were always airtight and sealed at the top, its the way we were taught at college in the 60s and 70s and were always built like this.This only changed late 70s with the advent of cavity insulation which had to abutt the roof insulation.
I’m too young to know about building in the 60s and 70s but maybe that’s the reason there’s so much damp and sick housing from that period. Always ventilate your cavity.
@@build-better-things Yea ok, ive opened hundreds of houses up from that period and earlier with compo in the trays, bridged ties no vents all bone dry.
@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 I believe you and I know you’ve got way more experience than me on brickwork. I’ve watched your channel before and it’s really good. I agree you need to seal the cavity at the top in certain circumstances, for example… to prevent fire spread, but in my view you can and should ventilate the cavity, even if there’s no insulation.
@@build-better-things Maybe but it wasnt done that way years ago, thats why air bricks to ventilate timber floors and ventilate larders etc were tunnelled through the cavity with slate to stop them venting the cavity.I was actually taught at college to spread a bed to give minimal snots and any that you did get you didnt scrape of you left as scraping of you would always drop some but that all changed with insulation.
When you say Building Control will 'insist' on a Structural Engineer's report on foundation design, is that just applicable to Scotland? I've never heard of such in the rest of the UK.
If you go down the full plans route in England, it’s a requirement to provide from structural calculations as part of the application, or, alternatively, I believe they will now accept an SER certificate. It’s possible to go down the Building Notice route, which is where you build the stages, and they inspect. It’s a false economy to go down this route, especially as an inexperienced self builder, as you never know what the individual inspector will and won’t accept. Structural calculations are still required. If you’ve never heard of the need for structural calculations for foundations, perhaps you’ve paid for the calculations to be checked by the council, or you’re doing work without the proper permission. Either way, structural engineering input is absolutely required, everywhere in the U.K.
you want the perfect job, you have to pay the perfect price" you only get what you pay for" like everything else, there is a right way to do brickwork, and there is a wrong way, always check out your bricklayers"
Architects don’t size beams, structural engineers do. They’re just designing within the guidelines set , so their process is mathematical in terms of sizing, not really subjective …but, I’ve no doubt, litigation precedent is a factor in how these parameters are evolving.
A few L shaped holding down straps to the outside, and inside, 100mm screws through the wall frame sole plate into floor frame, and then 90mm nails shot through on diagonal, again through sole plate into the floor frame. Thanks for your encouragement.
I have no experience in the building industry. We're about to start a single story extension and whenever my wife or I wonder how does this or that work with the build process your videos have given the exact answers on multiple occasions. Thank you very much for sharing your experience and info 👏👌🙏.
Some excellent and very valid points made here, I couldn’t tell you how many arguments I had with supervisors over strongboys before I worked for myself, they have their very limited uses, such as supporting new lintels for a very short time, but anything involving major structural alterations has to be needled. Also, cavity trays are essential for lintels, areas of higher ground level against the building, and of course at abutments. However, I feel that they are sometimes specified needlessly at floor level and do more harm than good. Depending on the ground level and conditions, I feel that in most situations a standard dpc is the best thing. Just my opinion and you may not agree but I do think trays have a vital function but only in cases where they are necessary, and aren’t a fix all for other issues as some architects seem to think.
And if you make any mistakes it’ll cost you a fortune to correct. If you think it’s expensive hiring an expert, it’s nothing compared to how much it’ll cost you using a novice
The point of the video is to explain in advance the pitfalls and the techniques of pouring concrete so people, novices, can make an informed decision for themselves, plan and execute. If you never learn, never risk, then you never have reward. I guess your view is one way of leading your life, but it’s not for me.
I use Google Sheets with my own formulas for quantifying , and Sketchup for the 3d and virtual building work. I export the data from sketchup into Sheets to give me my exact quantities and add wastage.
Thks for the replay much appreciated, I will be doing a shelf build next year and I will use you information and videos, absolutely 💯 brilliant tks 👏 👌
Hi Jerry, forgot to ask - how air permeable is OSB 11 mm, which you mentioned in your earlier videos? I am planning on using high density mineral wool insulation (e.g. Rockwoll) for better sound insulation (planning to use the gardenroom as a woodworking workshop and I would like to keep my neighbours happy :) ) , over thermal performance offered by PIR. Will fixing of OSB over the outside of the studwork, provide a chance for the moisture (seasonal and from gradual drying of the timber) to escape through OSB and leave via the breather membrane? Thanks again.
With the glue they are using now in OSB they are fairly impermeable but vapour will get out through the joints. Make sure to have the breather membrane on the outside of the OSB
Hi Jerry, I am really glad I found your channel. Lots of practical tips and very logically explained. I am in the process of building a small garden room (~9m^2) near Glasgow. I was wondering how do you go about supporting the 4 corners of the flooring (e.g. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UO1IAv3snuY.htmlsi=8gqjWhF-C93twD-9&t=368)? Is it a good idea to offset the the perimeter joists by a bit (~20 mm) to allow for fixation of the chipboard, but still provide the support for the bottom plate of the wall (with the created opening to be filled with PIR insulation)? Thank you. Keep up the good work!
Good question. I screw a 200mm wide x 50mm deep noggin or dwang at the perimeter sole plate only to the short ends, so the 600 wide board where unsupported, to prevent movement. I cut the floor insulation to go below the noggin. I don’t do it along the 2400 board length because the joists are there to do that and of 400 centres you’ll have no movement. I don’t offset the perimeter joists because I want to optimise the insulation in the floor. Thanks for you comment.
Really helpful points. On the last point about cavity trays for walls adjacent to a monopitch extension, what about in traditional buildings/older properties where there is a solid masonry wall with no cavity? Are there any precautions to consider?
Great question. Deep chase with lead flash insert and sealant. 150mm upstand. Wraps over roof abutting flashing. Most solid masonry will be at least 400mm so going deep with the chase should be ok.
Great stuff, you clearly know a hell of a lot about the subject. My question is how does this translate into building a house of more than one storey, or is your focus solely garden rooms and extensions??? I've heard shrinkage can be a real problem on two storeys. Also what about the moisture content of the timber, think we have all seen CLS arrive sopping wet to site! It would be good to hear your thoughts sometime on building an actual house in timber frame on site, thanks.
Two storey is fine for CLS. You can build up to 4 storeys in timber frame without special measures. Shrinkage in timber frame is always an issue, especially in damp uk, regardless of the height and needs to be taken account of. The key is in two areas…. First, design…don’t shortcut the frames , I mention it in the video, and don’t shortcut the joists in terms of sizing , understand about insulation placement and never shortcut …and incorporate vents and movement joints, especially in soffits and fascia. Once you are wind and watertight and the timber has had the time to dry out, you manage the moisture content at that point by incorporating ventilation, breathability, vapour control and airtightness everywhere. You’re always going to have a six month period of cosmetic shrinkage , I just leave my final coat of paint and caulk for nine months out. But rarely do I get more than the odd hairline in the odd corner. If for a customer, I make sure to explain. I’ve seen loads of RU-vid videos paying no real respect to ventilation and insulation placement, bish bash bosh,, and we never get to visit these builds a few years later. Great question and thanks for the comment.
In England it is common practice to build walls off 'Egger Protect' flooring on garden rooms and also large cabins. Egger Protect is an expensive material so maybe is OK??? Just wondered what your opinion is on this, great video, it is a very good point you have raised about building off chipboard.
Hi. Yes, I understand it’s common practice by some. I see it also on a lot of popular RU-vid self build and DIY channels. The reason they do it, I guess, is to make it easier to make their walls right angled, rather than using 345. It’s a terrible detail. You’ll hear the standard “I’ve been doing this for years and never had a problem” answer. Phone up a structural engineer, phone up Egger protect manufacturer as well, and ask if it’s suitable for taking roof point loads, and you’ll have your answer. Have you ever had your kitchen worktop swell up and fail when it gets moisture ingrained? What happens if the weight compresses the tiny air gaps in chipboard? Or part of the composite fails? Of course it’s a rare occurrence. If it fails.. will your builder come back to re build your investment at their cost…. Or pay you compensation? And if you’re doing it yourself…how will you feel if all your hard work is ruined? Why not just do it right in the first place?
@@build-better-things Yes I do get what you are saying, it is a brilliant point. I saw one RU-vidr build his own cabin with a glulam beam to create about a 5m open space, he had about 6 vertical timbers supporting it, all on the Egger Protect, he isn't a commercial builder though. It is a cabin on a steel frame with wheels with an apron cladding system. So the edge of this flooring could be a bit of a potential weak spot I guess.
Can you do a video on SIPs roof panels? planning a 5x5m residential timber granny annex that is under 1m away from boundary, so limited to 2.5m high and cold roof but only just found out about sips roof panels on this video and it seems like a great solution for insulation, simplicity and extra head room. Would you agree? Thanks!
Here’s a video I made about SIPs, and I talk about small projects such as yours. What's best SIPS v Timber Frame - You won’t like what I’m going to tell you ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xW-ePTqDaAU.html
Hi everyone, this is a tutorial on sketchup, and although there’s some basic building construction included, I’m short cutting some things for speed. For the correct way to build, when you’re building your model, check out these videos…. 9 Timber Frame and Joinery mistakes to avoid ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jiHygezMEhI.html
Wow, best video for foundations out there. Straight forward, clear and really good video work. Just one question before I start my foundation drawings, which looks like an almost exact copy of your project, just before you pour, at 11:19 you show the reinforcing rebar laying on top of the old foundation where it abuts the house. The level peg also looks above the old foundation. Am I right in thinking you poured to about 50mm above the old foundation level? Much appreciated videos.
Hi and thanks for the encouragement. I poured flush with the existing foundation level because I had to get the brick courses to line through, because of the facing brick. If you don’t have facing brick, not so important, although good practice. The rebar over the foundation is because I’m creating an additional pad foundation for the steel column for the goal post. I explain it more in my other videos
@@build-better-things Ah, thank you for the reply. It is now completely clear. Hoping to be toothing out original wall to accept new facing bricks so must line through. Many thanks.
Hi Jeremy, befor i start never wirked on construction site on laying floors fir modules. Recently bought small derelict cottage , walls all good its approx9.5 m x 4.5 m going to out extension on rear for kitchen and bathroom, i thought of doing goal post steel beam idea but think that would be overkill reason being the roof is asbestos corrugated once the specialist comes to remove it will use shingle sheets as if i use tiles rhe whole roof will need re engineering for extra strength, so as the walls are almost 2' thick i can put the onto the walls but will need 4"x2" wall head plate on top of beam so joists and rafters have some where to go . So the opening of the wall approx 4.5m then wall then mtr fir door to bathroom from existing building , then block and render , so after reading comments from others about having no bump in celing from steel beam , its impossible in my case as being single storey . I have yet to get in there and have a more accurate measure . Will be a flat roof , width of ext approx 3 mtrs . Thanks for videos Jeremy.
im going to have to build my own standard extension under permited rights , im going to do the 48hours submit so no need for plans, but the bit thats got me worried now is the installing a cavity tray in the existing wall above the new flat roof,cutting one in is a massive job
Good Evening Jeremy. I’ve recently subscribed. Within just a few days you have taught me an exponential amount. PLUS, this game changing trick with importing the floor plan. I teach construction in a secondary school and I hope to build my own extension soon, so please keep your videos coming. Thank you for you videos, knowledge, tips and efforts. Ash
