Furniture restoration, refinishing, repair, and woodworking tips and tricks. Also, hiking and camping with my dog, the sato rescue Bucco from Puerto Rico. #worldsfastestdog
Hi John!! Great job on the table very well done video!! I was gifted the same exact drafting table. I want to strip it down refinish it into a fly tying table. I am a amateur woodworker experience from high school many years ago. What grit sandpapers to use to remove the varnish and set up for finish. Is the danish oil enough of a finish or should it be shellac as well?? Thanks in the advance for the advise.
Super restoration! I have something similar and had a question for you...I am having trouble determining whether replacement veneer should be white or red tiger oak. The figuring looks the same as mine, so I was hoping you could shed some light on this...thanks!
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips. I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer. I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin. What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
Spectacular results! I would have liked more discussion of what products you used, or (if you want to stay proprietary) at least a discussion regarding how to think about what products to use. For example, how do we think about the layers of the various coats - e.g. what each coat does for the final product. Also, you diluted some products. It would have been nice to discuss why. Clearly, this is your business. So, it would be totally understandable if you don't want to discuss some of the details. However, since you went to the trouble of making the video and mentioning some of the products then a little more perspective on those would be greatly appreciated. However, thanks for the video! It shows a lot about how a pro does the work. (And, if I lived in your area I would just let you do it; cause, after all, you are the pro.)
It's a silly, stupid thing on my part, but I just hate it when anyone tosses or throws a tool down. I know it doesn't mean anything but it bugs me. But I ramble, you did a nice job even if you did toss your poppas carving tools into the toolbox!
Hello John from Beckley, W.V. I have 2 draw knives. I like shiny things for display only. If I was going to use it I probably would shine it. Each to their own. Great job. Have a Blessed Day.
What stain & lacquer? How did you refresh the mirror? You used 150 & 220 for sanding? I have similar piece that needs to be refinished. Also do you know where I can get wooden knobs mine are missing & were replaced with glass knobs.
I watched this on Roku and I just had to tell you, I love that you don't paint these pieces some hideous "updated" color but rather keep them original or close to it. I love antique furniture and what ignorant people can do to them is just appalling. So, thank you! I love this piece and the care and time and effort you put into it was just perfect.
Looks good and great information John! Can you just buff polyurethane finish or do you recommend spraying lacquer over poly finish? Also, how long after freshly poly finish can buffing take place? Thirty days perhaps? Thanks. Chris.
Your video, still has legs. Found your steps useful on a china cabinet I'm just in final steps before a topcoat for a project. Only question is the time you invested in this piece? I'm at about 24 hours on a top/bottom cabinet, am I slow or shouldn't keep track because it drives you crazy? Subscribed/liked. Thanks
Thank you. I just bought one after watching your video. One friendly suggestion. Place plywood on the bottom flanges of bar joist. Then set shop fix on it between the bar joist . It doesn’t have to hang , then it’s higher and more out of the way. ? Thank you for video.
I'm so confused about how to treat ornate details that are stained darker than the rest of the piece, when the whole thing really needs to be stripped. Your techniques appear to be the closest to what I'm looking for, and the knowledge is much appreciated! But, I was given a beautiful, ornate secretary desk, and I really don't want to ruin its aesthetic by making it monochrome. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!
