Excellent vid and instruction fella.. Its mad that you did this video 5 years ago and as far as I can tell, there isn't any others as informative than yours. I have just purchased some Disco 5 leather seats.. They are lovely but... I am going to have to start delving into the wirings shortly. I am hoping that it is similar to the seats you have. I know they ( well certainly the drivers seat) has the memory console. So that's a starting point. lol Keep up the great work fella.
Morning. I am looking at a 53plate 2.3 TD 35S12 with 87,000 on it. As an experienced Iveco owner could you give me some advice on potential bomb shells to look out for?
Hi Chris At 87k, mechanical wise, it should be spot on if it has a service history, my only concern " mechanical wise " with a low mileage would suggest that it has been stood for some time between use, so take it for a good test run and check each wheel rim for heat build up from the brakes, the calipers tend to seize up if not used frequently. Your biggest concern will be corrosion ( especially if it's been stored outside over its life time ) . Common areas for corrosion. Rear wheel arch's, out riggers next to the wheel arch's, under neath the windscreen washer bottle and battery tray, rear valance ( underside and topside), the bodies front chassis rail ( behind the front wheel arch plastic covers fixed onto the bumper ) . I think these will be the primary issues, with a van of that age with low mileage. 🙂👌👍.
Oh! And timing belt! See if that's been done, even though it's low milage and should of had one at around 80k mk, but it should be done every 5 years regardless of the low mileage 👌👍.
No, you're right. But never posed an issue regarding " overheating "over the 5 years it's been like that. However, it's now been changed to a 4 way tilting solar panel (the same solar panel) 👌👍👉ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_3uFo4NjxKc.htmlsi=TPF8qF7FKdppa-rz
Amazing job. I am planning to do something similar at some point . But been confused by friend that I cannot come that close to the fence between me and neighbours… Can you clarify this please so I get better understanding. Many thanks in advance
Your best to look on your local authority's website regarding planning rules for guidance. For me, from memory, the footprint of the workshop is below 15 square meters, and the height is below 2.5mt. Therefore, I was ok to do this according to my local authority. However! There is around a metre gap between the boundary lines, between myself and the neighbours fence. The overgrown hedge had pushed their fence forwards. They have now cut down the hedge and redone their fence. 👌👍
Just seen your videos.Subscribed.Will be mortgage free in August.Cutting down my hours at work and when I do fancy doing a van build.Good luck with it all.Will keep watching.
Hi, great video, having the exact same problem with my iveco 2011 van conversion, loads of white smoke in the morning like a steam train so much white smoke, funny thing this clears when driving after a few miles, i have seen a puddle of oil near the inlet pipe on the turbo, about to strip the turbo in the next few days.
Cheers, Andrew. They do smoke on the first initial start-up in the morning, I noticed that on mine & I have new injectors and a brand new genuine Iveco turbo. Also, I've noticed oil residue within the pressure side of the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler, not a lot but probable cause "first thing smoking" in the morning.👌👍.
Which caliper did you change? Front or rear? Did you clamp off the flexi hose before changing the caliper so the brake system didn't blead dry? Does it have ABS or a load-sensing valve? I presume you exhausted all of the air out of the system?
@NegrutOctavian unfortunately, because the system has been bled dry, it's going to be a bit more of a pain to bleed. But if you follow the process that I've shown within the video ( preferably with a brake bleed pressure kit ) until you see all of the air has been exhausted and you've adjusted the rear brake caliper to close up the air gap on the brake pads and the hand brake adjusted, once bled, carry out that short run up on loose gravel and apply brakes until you feel the ABS pump kick in and you should feel the difference in the brake pedal. If it's got new brake pads, it may feel like it has a longer brake pedal travel until they have been bedded in 👌👍.
Cheers, matey 👍. Off eBay, they don't often pop up but keep an eye out on there. I did have to wait for one to pop up. Mind you, it was an 18-month wait for me 👌👍.
I've never tried Lanoguard, bud. I've always used Waxoyl over the past 30 years, so I can't honestly compare the two ( all I know is Lanoguard is much more expensive ) 👌👍.
Thanks for the cideo! I got my CC3 360 for my camper after seeing this video a year ago. I stuck the side cameras at 2m hight, same as the rear cam. The front cam is inside the car at the rearview mirror. Does anyone have experience with the setup? I had to cut the calibration sheets in half because they were too narrow for the car. But although i could mark the squares, somehow the stitching is not nice. Also in bird view mode i cannot see much of the back and front since the car appears quite big in the screen. I feel like i have to cheat the settings by putting in smaller values? Second question, since i am using the system for surveillance, how can i share the video files other than removing the sd card? Thanks for your ideas!
So when the ABS operates, where does any air go? As far as i can see it stays in the system? One or two cars makes, notably some Hondas, are designed so that when the ABS is activated with a diagnostic computer, trapped air is directed to one specific brake line - so that it can be cleared at the bleed nipple.
Yes, I did wondered this at the time too, so I looked up the bosch ABS unit that's fitted upon the van, within the workshop manual and it appears, when the ABS unit is being cycled, under a closed loop system it manages to self-vent any trapped air back to the reservoir via the valves that are being operated ( from memory, 6 valves ) within the ABS valve block whilst cycling, looking at the ABS hydraulic schematic within the manual, it makes more sense ( visually ) on how this works rather than the explanation provided within the manual. In an ideal world, we should be bleeding the brakes via the Easy Scan diagnostic tool ( the last time that I looked, these units were around £3000! ) which takes you through the brake bleed process that I've shown and cycles and operates the valves within the ABS unit during the bleeding process. However! This issue only happens when the brake system has been bled completely dry ( like, when changing brake pipes, where you can't really help, but let the brake fluid drain out of the system ). so, if its only the case of changing the calipers and the brake flexi hose have been clamped off, it should be a simple bleeding process without worrying about the ABS system, like it was on mine during the video 👌👍
@@Iveavan thanks very much for your reply - good to know. I had an issue bleeding my Pug307 (2006 model) - just hell it was, after a caliper and pipe change - tried suction bleeding, pressure bleeding, the lot but nothing would go through, even though Peugeot (and others) assured me fluid should fly through like that. Eventually, we stripped the front off the car off to get to the ABS (French cars!) and cracked open its pipes one by one and as we did so and this pressures changed, the ABS motor could be heard running (no computer attached). A thin brake fluid with micro air bubbles came out and after letting it settle several times and rebleeding it the same way we got it to work and the STOP light went off on the dashboard. We could not get any air out at all at the calipers - it was just clear brake fluid as it should be. Peugeot added that they sometimes use a computer but it shouldn't be necessary - if I understood that part correctly. Best of luck mate.
I’m in the process of sorting out 2 Range Rover Vogue seats so I know how time consuming it was mine never had the unit under the seats so I didn’t have to cut that out but the guy who took them out of the car was not too clever, the hardest part for me is finding the corresponding wires to the switches on the seat and for the life of be I can not make out how the plastic panel is fitted but there is wires coming out from the side of the seat and see if I can sort them out , I’ve not found the wires to raise and lower the head rest yet but I’m not in any rush I’m waiting for the relays to be delivered. Your video as. Been a great help Mark I will let you know how I get on with them
Cheers, Thomas, the head rest cable was tucked away right at the back, quite central next to the heated eliminate wires, only thin wires if I remember correctly. 😉👌👍.
From memory, two 8mm headed Alan key bolts hold the slider onto the interior part of the door ( remove those two bolts ). Then it pulls out along with the rubber grommet 👌👍.
You said that the relay system has positive and negative on one side and one for the motor and one for the switch. I get all that 😅. What i dont understand is when you connect all the relays on after the other what happens with the last one... it closes the circuit by itself right ?
Don't worry about it. No question is a silly question 👌👍. Just beware for tilting. The motors have to work opposite rotational way of each other when tilting forward or backwards 👌👍.
I don't know when you're done this why would suggest marine water resistant heat shrink is glue lined and will stopped watering rest that if you want to
Yes so I might not explained it too well they do Marine heat shrink which is glue lined which I said maybe better to put on your underneath wiring loom hope that makes more sense sorry
@cyrilwoolf8848 ah right, got you. yes, I have done that on the joins that I've soldered together on the camera cable, infact you can see one of the wires ( reverse light trigger wire ) @4:25 where I've used the self-sealing Polyolefin 👌👍.
@cliff1551 Before 1st January 1997 licences, you're usually allowed to drive a vehicle and trailer combination up to 8,250kg maximum. No, my van is an LWB rear wheel drive (model 35-12) 👌👍.
I'm looking into this myself. Other than setting the rubber buffers to either mid to soft settings, that's the only option so far, unfortunately 😕 👌👍...
If it's ground clearance, you're after. Your best off going for the larger wheels ( 16" for the mk3) and the all terrain tyres will give you 3" roughly extra ground clearance 👍...
Great video.....At approx 11min 30 you are refitting the top arm....My son is currently trying to change his as it has snapped...However he is really struggling getting the top left hand side bolt out as it is fouling on a bracket,yet you seem to put your bolt back in no problem....Any advice/tips anyone please ????
Is his a later model like the mk4 ? Where is it hitting the cab to chassis mount? If so, I know someone who had this problem before, I believe he had to actually unbolt that mount from the chassis to enable to remove and fit that top arm bolt, unfortunately, bud. 👌👍.
Cheers, Wayne 👌 👍. Unfortunately, currantly, there's not much to look at. Due to what I've done to it 👌👍👉ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nNYsdjlKXy8.htmlsi=tv1z3O7gEwRWydxQ
Yes, you're right! Regarding bleeding the furthest bleed nipple away from the brake master cylinder first. My van has ABS , so I followed the 'Iveco Daily Workshop manual, brake bleeding procedure for the ABS system' ( this was mentioned @3:31 within the video). Starting at the N/S rear Calliper, ( furthest away from the master cylinder) working myself around to the N/S front Calliper, then onto the O/S front Calliper, finishing on the O/S rear Calliper. 👌👍.
@@Iveavan Thanks for replying. I think I’ll get one anyway for what it costs. Just replaced calipers and the pedal sinks, so gonna try your skid trick and re bleed. I think the best thing is you can view the bleed pipe, otherwise your in n out pumping, when on jack stands also 🫣 really appreciate your vids btw. Cheers 👍
Do you mean you to visually check the condition of the belt in situ ? If so? You can remove the bolts on the cover and pull it back so far, and then you would need to manually turn the engine over to inspect/visually check the belt condition 👌👍.
I have front suspension on torsion bars on my 50C14. Which one do you think is better, between yours and mine, and why? Mine has never been serviced before. I am the first one that replaced a pair of ball joints but when warm weather returns, i will have to do a similar restoration job like you did, so i am wondering whether a suspension conversion is justified or not. Thanks in advance!
I think the true test would be upon a drive and compare test, I've never driven the C class chassis one, but both seem to be the suspension choice of yesteryear compared to modern suspension equivalents and agricultural mind you. If I was to retrofit a suspension, I'd probably opt for a SWB Iveco and make it into a 4x4 variant using some sort of heavy duty 4x4 donor vehicle 😉👌👍...
I think you would struggle to make it water tight due to the roof structure not being flat, unlike the sides of the van. Also, skylights offer ventilation even when closed ( not air-tight ). The caravan will not offer that, unfortunately, bud 👌👍.
@garrethsmith9954 probably not if it's made from fibreglass, I have seen some people use 'boat deck hatches' on lutons, sandwich between a framework to give the roof more strength mind you, I think Adrian did this, in this video ( if not in this video the one after it ) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UoHHqhYXHFs.htmlsi=qpzdQ1U9MT7TgN6-
