Found exactly the same problem on same wheel. I will be doing the same fix as I don't really want to put any money into my ancient (2001) van. Initially, after ABS light came on, tried my scanner but it didn't read ABS codes. Used the paper clip jumper method which gave me the codes pointing to the rear wheels. For anyone without the proper scanner trying to diagnose ABS problem on Sienna, the paper clip method is easy and accurate.
I have this exact problem. We have replaced the actuator (twice) and the check valve (once). Still intermittently get this exact problem. Back to the dealer to have them diagnose it.
I bought my Nikon F4 from Amazon it shipped from Japan .. and I paid $217.00 Canadian .. with tax in a duty .. came out to exactly $250.37 lol I was supposed to get the Nikon F 4s but .. said on the box Nikon F 4s doesn't matter .. I bought a Nikon ED telephoto lens 80 - 200 mm lol after and I do believe the lens itself is slightly heavier than the Nikon F4
I have a 2010 f150 and it is also making that sound. I'm gonna change my check valve first. Thank you for taking the time to make this video with a parts list. I'll start with the cheapest. I appreciate you!
Do you spray inside the frame. I use woolwax and surface shield. I buy in gallons with spray gun and wands to soak of the inside of doors, frames panels.
Thanks for the video with sound, I did the vacuum check valve assembly replacement first and the sound is now gone. Thanks for the video. Knowing to test by switching to 4x4 was the key to my diagnosis. Replaced in July 2024 - on a 2016 F150
Have the same noise in my 2010 f150. Had the dealership replace the drivers side IWE actuator. Sound still there so heading back to get them to actually interstate the noise since they never checked themselves and assumed it was the valve. Charged me $570 to not fix the issue or even check it beforehand…
Hello, is there a direction for installing the rotary valve (disc)? In my F4, the gap between the engine body and the disc changes when I switch it over.
Thank you so much! Crawled under my 2000 Sienna and the sensor was laying there just like yours. Glued it back in with some E6000, drove around the block, and now my ABS light is off!
Just completed the install. Looks great. Couple things. We pulled our rack off a newer expedition. The excursion we saw had the same track/bars but was too long. This will expand your options. I boight 2.5 inch bolts with nuts, washers and lock nuts and some white cheap caulking. 2.5 seema to be too long, but i wanted extra just in case. I installed the bolts reverse, with the long parts aticking out the top. I just put the crossbars where i needed them to fit my roof rack, installed them and grinded the extra lengths off. The interior is as flush as can be and you cant see the tips of the bolts. We camp in our teuck so i wanted to no chance to hit out heads. Feels extremely sturdy. Make sure you measure and ensure the track edges dont go too far. I had to drill the holes closest to the cab at an angle because my camper had a lip i didnt notice. All worked well and the truck looks cool.
Just picked up the roof rack today from the local junkyard. It came of a Ford expedition. The first excursion was too long. Cost me 22 bucks. Then, without measuring, I picked up 3 inch bolts with nuts, lock nuts and washers. Installing tomorrow and will update.
Just a thought since I see a lot of discussion about making the bolts inside flush. You would just reverse the bolts so the long end is out of the top.
I just purchased a functional body with a batch of other items and wanted to see what others thought of the camera. While I own a Nikon DSLR, I chose to use Minolta bodies and MD lenses before the digital era. Regardless, the specifications ought to make the camera worth keeping as it appears my Nikkor ASP-C 18 to 55 DSLR lens will cover full frame down to 24mm; hopefully still useful on manual focus and aperture priority until I acquire additional lenses. Thanks for posting a very informative- and reassuring- video!
I cut my teeth on an N8008, and loved it!. I never saw a reason to spend what an upgrade would cost. But I ignored it for a bit and the batteries popped, ruining it. I picked up an N8008s as a replacement. It's got a much better autofocus, better metering, is compatible with my MF-21 data back, and is about as inexpensive on ebay and cl. (My new one was even cheaper on cl at $10. It wasn't working. But an evening of repairs, and a few parts from my N8008 got it going perfectly.)
Wow this is EXACTLY what’s wrong with my 2010. Thanks for the very useful video. The dealer wants 1400 to replace everting. Maybe I’ll buy a check valve instead.
Great question Jim!! Years ago on my 1991 Chevy Silverado I used POR15 on the frame and underside of the cab. After 5-6 years the rust came back, and worse, because it was rusting under the POR 15. So I figured with this truck I would try the oil. Thanks for watching my video!!
@@mdavis472000keep some vegetable oil spray around . It's cheap, and you can touch up the fluid film oil once in winter. I think you are not spraying enough product. So it washes off. The vegetable oil spray is less durable than fluid film, but if you are washing it a lot then you can reapply and it's cheap.
Great video and clever fix! Need to go out under my '98 Sienna now and see if that might be the simple cause of the intermittent ON/Off warning light I just started seeing. I see you must be in snow country - at 0:38, aren't you concerned that your control arms might fail on you? Finally, at 3:36 what is that car in front of you?? (Never mind, I see it's a Cobra from your other videos...)
I had some questions about your install ,do you have the template for your install brackets? for the frame and the hood pins? if you can post them that would be great thanks BOYD
Hello, there are actually several other brands under which this camera was manufactured. The original camera was the Ricoh Singlex TLS, which was launched in 1967, followed by the Chinonflex TTL in 1968. My version is the Sigma Mark 1. The special feature of the Sigma Mark 1 is that Sigma bought the original blueprints of the Ricoh Singlex TLS from Ricoh and launched its very first own camera based on these blueprints from Ricoh in 1976 with only minimal cosmetic changes. But even Sigma employees today (at least those in Germany) no longer know the very first Sigma camera based on the Ricoh Singlex TLS, although in my opinion it is the best Sigma has ever brought to market. My copy still works perfectly, even the self-timer. Greetings from Germany
i put my battery in that location in 06 i made the parts easy to do , his looks like its running the same tires as mine 215/60 /15s front and 265/50/15 rears
It seems like you two work together and have fun a lot. Glad to see a friendship that's been going for over 20 years. Watching you lying on your backs makes me envious. I found about six years ago that I can no longer do that. In a matter of minutes when on my back, working overhead, I become nauseous . Dealt with that recently while installing a sink in our family room kitchenette. Seems Ginger Ale helps with recovery.
The FA has “cybernetic override” in P and shutter modes. Will it let you blur the water of a waterfall? The override takes over your chosen shutter speed to make a ‘better’ exposure…
FFR sells cars that are poorly made period. Nothing lines up Nothing fits and if you ask enough questions Factory Five will eventually ignore your emails they have made a lot of money and they have cheated a lot of people I'm one of them
