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Without seeing it and going off of what you described, I would take a look at this video as a starting point. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K6Kxn-rabzQ.html
Hey I replaced my valve cover gasket but after that now there’s a weird noise coming from it. Any ideas by chance? I’d love to send a video but not sure where to do so for you to maybe hear.
I now have 1k+ miles after this exact repair (plus a couple things that broke during the process) and wanted to thank you for your highly-detailed video. I watched one or two others which were helpful, but none match your video in quality of instruction. Not sure I would've attempted this without it. So ... THANK YOU. Some helpful tips to add for others that may be attempting this: -Buy a gasket scraper with plastic blades instead of razor blades. Won't scratch aluminum but will remove all traces of gasket material. -Use valve cover gaskets that have "nubs" which grip inside the covers' channels, eliminating the need for sealant/RTV/adhesive -Hardest part of the process was getting the passenger side cover back on without damaging or dislodging the gasket. Zip-tie your heater hoses up and out of the way. Remove the oil dipstick tube. Loosen wiring and/or other items, and still it'll be tricky. Practice without the gasket in the cover until you know exactly how to maneuver it. Then place gasket in, position it, then dab your RTV on and finish install. -Start all fasteners in the plastic intake manifold before installing it on the engine. Makes for easier tightening in tight spaces. -Watch 'FordTechMakuloco' video on installation of spark plugs and recommended torque. Follow the excellent video sequence and you'll complete the job successfully and be back on the road! Running at 218k miles myself...
Both of my windows make a loud pressure noise almost like cracking when they go up and down, but they have no issues going up and down. Any ideas what it could be? Your videos are great they've helped me a lot!
I am a mechanic and I know what the hell I’m talking about. My brother also runs a shop. Neither one of us would recommend a flash. It is unnecessary and an unneeded expense.
if you do the flush incorrectly, as he says to do it, you run the risk of burning up the pump in the transmission, which will cost you thousands of dollars to replace. If you don’t know what you’re doing take it to a dealer
another no-no that I just saw. Toyota transmissions are engineered to be used with Toyota fluids. Soil has good products, but it is not Toyota spec. Do you want your stuff the last long time run the manufacturers put in the vehicles from the factory. again flush is not necessary Toyota AT-216 transmission fluid. by the way, sir, your remaining fluid is in something called a torque converter. Educate yourself a little more before you put a video up. Toyota genuine parts and fluids in your Toyota. vehicles.
It was shown that this video was posted about 11 months ago I’d be curious to see if that transmission didn’t take a dump shortly after. It is also not recommended to flush your transmission. Neither is it necessary. Judging from the look of that fluid, it probably had 241,000 miles on it. So, even more not recommended to entirely flush it. It’s just not necessary and a waste of money. All of what this man said is not incorrect, but there are a few things that he missed obviously.
It was shown that this video was posted about 11 months ago I’d be curious to see if that transmission didn’t take a dump shortly after. It is also not recommended to flush your transmission. Neither is it necessary. Judging from the look of that fluid, it probably had 241,000 miles on it. So, even more not recommended to entirely flush it. It’s just not necessary and a waste of money. All of what this man said is not incorrect, but there are a few things that he missed obviously.
This vehicle is a daily driver. No transmission issues so far after 11 months. When you refer to "flush your transmission" , are you referring to using a "flush-machine", "flush product" or "Back-Flushing"? I don't recommend a flush machine or back flushing but I routinely use a flush product. The procedures demonstrated in this video are the standard procedures I work through when I do this service on vehicles.
I hope that at 241,000 miles this is not the first transmission fluid and filter change. By the way, you keep referring to it as the engine it’s not the engine it’s the transmission. Also transmission fluid and filter changes is every 60,000 miles recommended by Toyota. if you do not know when your transmission fluid was changed last, then it’s better to not change it at all as shortly after your transmission will take a dump. This is recommended by“the car nut RU-vid channel“ He is a master certified Toyota technician so, I would listen to them. also use FP pro gasket adhesive medium to heavy tack brush it onto your pan and then stick the gasket to it. It will hold it in place and make it much easier to reinstall.
It is very possible this was the first tranny fluid/filter change. The documents I received from the previous owner (who had the car for 19 years) did not indicate tranny service. I apologize for not using the word transmission throughout the video, I narrate as I film to reduce the editing time. I have watched "The Car Care Nut's" videos and he is a great source of information. However, although a great source...he is only one source of information. Dealership mechanics have a specific type and style of training that is different from other types of educational institutions and organizations. As far as the FP Pro Gasket Adhesive...that is a great tip. I appreciate it.
AGM Valve Regulated Lead Acid VRLA is required do you what that is? On the website of advanced auto for the diehard agm battery with start/stop it's a warning.
I am not an expert on battery technology. I just went in to O'Reilly Auto Parts and told them my vehicle specs and they sized the battery that I needed.
The 2008 Hyundai Elantra with a 2.0L engine will take 4.2 quarts (with filter). www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2008/hyundai/elantra/2-0l-4-cyl-engine-code-bd-dohc-b/?zo=10458
That’s ok but if you disconnect full body trote it cleaning much better on the back inside of the butterfly I did is way I said clean off all the carbon biocide is accumulate for the pass time
These have been a life saver over the past several weeks. Other car channels could take a tip or two from you. Very easy to understand and follow. You spell it all out and don't waste time. Thanks man!
Coolant fittings were included in the Turbo Install Kit I bought us.bddiesel.com/products/exhaust-manifold-install-kit-ford-f-150-3-5l-ecoboost-2011-2016?variant=40928806994103 ... I am not sure what the exact part number is. I think this is the one but I am not 100% sure www.summitracing.com/parts/frd-bl3z-6a968-c?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-stock-replacement&gclid=Cj0KCQjws560BhCuARIsAHMqE0H0DkN1GHQl4SF9kiUMVXrKvmcUf_L5hCsyR3oW-agyZoicHMHcY4kaAj8ZEALw_wcB
As a safer way put wheel wedges (bricks will work as well) around your front tires both sides of the front tires. Then the rest of the video is correct.
Have a 2019 Ford Explorer Sport. I got the ShopPro Universal Yellow Antifreeze and Coolant Ready-To-Use 50/50 Auto zone one and i poured it all in , I noticed the car label was asking for the orange coolant , should i be worried ? can I mix these 2 or do i have to flush it out please help
Don’t you normal not want to handle new bulbs with your bare hands? Maybe it’s more critical for headlights and high beams. Also you should put bulb grease on the metal connectors.
Just an excellent example of a tutorial; assume the viewer knows nothing and proceed step by step from beginning to end. I just replaced my alternator in a 1999 f150 4.6L V8 with a NEW alternator from 1AAuto for half the price of the local auto parts stores... delivered. I had 12.2 volts at the battery with the motor running and a battery light in the instrument cluster (the voltmeter showed normal). This took about 2 hours and the battery is now getting 14.35 volts from the alternator and the battery light is out. Thanks Insane Oil for the quality work...!
Very clear video. I''m going to follow this video to replace the intake manifold gasket and check all intake lines and fittings along the way. My engine is running lean and triggering the check engine light (P0171). Let me know if you have any thoughts.
Thanks for the comments. You may have already watched this one but here is a good video that elaborates on the troubleshooting of a P0171 code. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gpstVT3goxM.html
A new manifold gasket and throttle body (caged) gasket have been installed. No check engine light after two local drives. I will be taking a three hour interstate drive tomorrow for the real test. If the engine light pops back on, then I'll clean the MAFS and check out your video for other ideas. Thanks!
Ugh. Check engine light popped back on. I then cleaned the MAFS, and after about 20 minutes of driving, the light popped in again. I guess I'm checking fuel pressure next although I did notice an internal tear in the main intake hose. It doesn't appear to be in a position to allow air in, but I'll investigate further.
From my experience on this car, 2003 Camry, and many other Toyotas, Hondas, Nissans, Fords, etc.. The calve cover bolts are very low torque. They are very easy to remove. I worry when they are tight because they may actually break.
@@InsaneOil Nice. I just finished my control arm. And left arm was not able to tight enough due to bolt thread out. I forcibly tightened it with an impact wrench, but I feel still uneasy.
