My name is Terry and I love cycling. I have cycled for over 40years and in that time I have ridden well over 350,000km, see my Strava profile. I am a member of Cambridge Cycling Club and Audax UK.
Why Five Minute Velo. Well there are a large number of cycling channels but many videos are too long to fit in to busy lives. So the five minutes relates to the maximum length of my videos, many will be shorter. I will aim to upload one video per week.
In this channel I'll pass on my cycling experience through video blogs, tips, tricks and maintenance advice. I do like good value (not necessarily cheap) in what I buy and like to make my equipment last, this will definitely be a feature of this channel.
If you like what you see, please subscribe and click the bell icon. Also if you like the content, buy me a coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/fiveminutevelo
i had this exact same adaptor earlier today but using it with a QR axle I found that my cassette tool wasn't deep enough so I couldn't tighten the lock ring down enough. I returned that adaptor to Amazon and spent about $15 more and purchased a DT Swiss adaptor that uses a bottom bracket wrench to tighten the lock ring. I feel better about getting the adaptor from a reputable brand since there is a ton of torque on that adaptor and I don't really trust a no-name chinesium adaptor.
Tpu tubes, constantly having to pump up. When I can't be bothered most of the time, any pot hole and they are done, when I go round corners I feel the tyre slipping off, difficult to patch almost impossible on a ride. Butyl perfect....
@@NewsYourViews > I have found that TPU tubes do deflate more quickly than butyl and some pumping is required. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tmioN1JFjRY.htmlsi=gJMSJcP1qEnTxYnp However, I do run my tires at relatively low pressure (45-50psi), if you're using much higher pressures, I can see it would be more of a problem. I have very few pinch punctures, even though I use those low pressures, so this is not been an issue for me - probably because I look out for and avoid road irregularities. As for the tire feeling as though it's going to slip off, I can think of a physical reason for that, perhaps it's psychological! That does not mean it's not important to you. I agree with you, mending punctures is more difficult. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2GrVswc5bXo.htmlsi=T7cmdhzDfCCVTr7S I also agree that butyl tires are a great option. What I'm tending to do now is use butyl tubes in the tyres and reserve the TPU tubes for my spares kit where the small size is useful.
"Tubeless" is an industry lie. It's doesn't really exist, since it requires endless maintenance and troubleshooting to keep wheels inflated. The Stan's 'sealant' doesn't seal very well or for long. It's better to use tubes and avoid the cost, time and frustration of dealing with a fake alternative.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. Some people think that tubeless is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Others, like me and presumably you, do not. If you see my other tubeless videos, you'll realise that I have basically come to the same conclusion as you. Although I have got tubeless tires to inflate and seal occasionally, it's not worth the time and effort and as you say, frustration. And don't get me started on if you flat with a tubeless tire setup. The bottom line is I quickly reverted to using tubes which are cheap and reliable.
@@ForestCyclingAdventures > thanks for taking the time to comment, I must admit, I only showed a small proportion of the 'adventure'. It took me back, having grown up in the FOD (Newnham on Severn). I'll check out your videos for more reminiscence 😀.
@@al-du6lb > it's difficult not to buy fake chains through Amazon, particularly if it's a non-amison seller selling on Amazon. I have bought what I believe to be genuine KMC chains direct from Amazon. However, overall I think it is very hit and miss.
The link is definitely just under the title in the description. But it is definitely optional. Again thank for taking the time to write a comment. Despite the terrible autorouting the FoD was worth the effort 👍.
I'm confused as to why your assessment for saddle #1 was about long 100km+ rides, and yet you put out a video only commenting about the new saddle experience on a 12km ride. Apples to Apples next time, otherwise this video is pointless 🤷♂️
Pal, you have made my day. I cannot move my hands the skin is raw and peeled off, seeping. You have saved the day. I'd get you a few pints if I see you.
@@jasonpeake8992 > I'm really glad the video helped. Thanks for the feedback which makes making the videos worthwhile. I'd be happy with more 👍 and comments on my other videos. No pressure but - www.buymeacoffee.com/fiveminutevelo I hope your fingers heal quickly.
@@buntysimmons2565 > if a mile makes you smile, that is good. Although I use kilometres, I have to admit each one is only 0.62 of a smile. However, irrespective of how you measure the ride, it's the same number of smiles 😀😀😀, which is the important bit to me.
Ive been trying to do pretty much the same way you show yet it still doesn't help. This is the most fucked up queerest tire I've dealt with. Mindboglling masochistic piece of shit called Hollowgram 35. Stay away from this fucked up worthless overhyped overpriced classic jewmerican plastic obnoxious gimmick piece of shit. Can't wait to replace it with just about anything than this FАGGОTY PIECE OF SHIT. Oh, and , did I say it's a piece of shit?
Note: Motorcycles are even more fun since you don't have to bother with pedals. My question is how much work do you want the motor/battery to do vs what you contribute? No comments on how the bike felt pedaling with zero assist other than slow and heavy. Do these things feel like you're turning a bunch of gears inside the mid-motor rather than pedaling a bicycle? That was my experience on the single mid-motor MTB I tried - YUCK!
I used to ride motorcycles so I know where you are coming from. For me it is a balancing act, leg:motor power ratio. I like to cycle and hence put in effort. For general riding the X35 is great on low or mid levels. It saves me effort on the uphills which does not tire my brain too much. I keep the highest power output for emergencies when I'm not feeling too great. The motor cutting out at 25 kph is also helpful as most of the time I'm riding without motor assistance. As for that, Bosch CX bike, it was superficially nice to have the high level of assistance, but ultimately unsatisfying. I'm thinking for touring, where the bike is loaded up, the higher rated, mid-drive motors would be more suitable. I am planning a deeper dive comparison between different motor drive systems.
I ride the old model of Canyon Grail:On and really like it and it's stable going downhill, The new Grail:On should be even better with a 1 degree slacker headangle. I like the Bosch motor the only downside is that is quite a bit of drag when going over 25 km/h, how is the Mahle motor over 25 km/h?
The Grail: ON looks awesome, but I think the newer Grizl:ON would be better suited to me. My main issue with the Grizl:ON (and Grail) is its cost the cheapest here in the UK is £4800. Canyon do the Pathlite:ON which is heavier, more suited to touring and at around £2500 only a little over half the price; it may need modifying (e.g. drop bars) for me though. My touring requirement, is one reason I have been holding off getting the Mondraker Dusty. I did hire an ebike in Mallorca that was fitted with a Bosch CX motor and boy did it fly with the motor on but it was rather ponderous with the motor off and at speeds above 25kph. Indeed I thought the CX had rather too much grunt, I like to do some of the work, which is why the SX motor looked interesting. The Mahle X35 on my last ebike seemed to have little drag, although I thought I could detect to at around and above 40kph. My wheel spin test comparing the X35 and the X20 fitted to the Dusty suggests the wheel rotational resistance on the X20 will be less. Thanks for taking the time to comment, even though I don't think the Grail:ON is for me, your comment has got me thinking.
@@FiveMinuteVelo Ohh Ithe new one is the Grizl:on, you should keep an eye on Canyons outlet because I guess they have probably had some Grizl:on out for tests that will turn up in the outlet shop :)
@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 > thanks for the feedback. I know where you're coming from. Although these TPU tubes aren't bad, they're not quite there yet. Maybe in another 5 years. I am tending to move back towards butyl tubes in my wheels and carry a patch kit. However, I carry TPU tubes as emergency spares because of their small size. Regards 5MV.
I carry a "boot" in my saddlebag just-in-case. Cut a rectangular section out of an old tire (you don't need the bead parts) to use if your tire is damaged in this way. Over the years I've seen paper money, energy-bar wrappers and cardboard inner-tube boxes used for the same purpose..anything to cover the damage enough to keep the inner-tube from protruding will work...at least for awhile.
I did have a tyre boot in my spares pack. However, the cut was bad enough that it was distorting the tyre carcass and I wasn't confident that it would last the whole ride. That's why I cut the ride short.
I have both and can't tell any difference when riding 'em. Easily hit 75 kph the other day on a descent on X35 bike. Would I have gone faster with X20? Do I care? Some of the things people obsess about make me scratch my bald head!
@@tonystone3397 thanks, they have some interesting bike options. The trouble is that the ones that appeal most to me are X35 powered and the system is a little underpowered for touring and the battery too small.
Interesting take, thanks. I have one of each and frankly can't tell much difference at all when RIDING 'em. In my case the larger battery spec'd with X20 kind of cancels it's lighter weight over X35. As to power delivery I wonder if the settings used made the difference? Both of mine are set to provide just 30% of the system power at assist level 1 and unless the climb is steep I ride both of 'em with assist at level 0 that is easily controlled by the Pulsar "brain" unit that works with both. I DO like the X20's simpler rear wheel setup and not having to have a big wrench in my saddlebag just-in-case, but that's a minor + IMHO.
@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 > thanks, useful info. It's nice to know that I'm not too far off. Yes, the x35 set at 30% will be pretty much undetectable as an e-bike in normal uphill riding - that is until you turn the motor off 😲.
@@andrewlancefield3730 > I didn't notice any difference in the noise level between the two motors. The x20 bike did have chunkier knobbly tires which made a bit more noise, so maybe this drown out the motor noise a bit. However, compared to other motors that I've used, both of the Mahle ones are very quiet.
Sadly they put SRAM on it...instead of Shimano GRX. I'd walk before I'd ride anything with SRAM's name on it. Are Bianchi E-Impulso Allroads not on close-out in the UK? A friend in the USA sent me a link showing 'em at $2800 US. I paid $2K for a used one with 600 kms on it last year!
@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 > I had a bike with SRAM on about 10 years ago and it was not good at all. This experience did bias me against SRAM. My latest experiences suggests that this bias should be discarded. It all actually works quite well and is nicely made. If you're a using mechanical groupset, the major differences in the double-tap changing system. I didn't like the double-tap first but you do get used to it. The brifter hoods also tend to be a different shape which you may or may not like. Currently there's only one reason why I would avoid SRAM and that is, if a bike has an XD style freewheel as the cassettes are non-reconfigurable and they tend to be very expensive. If you have a particular reason for your bias against SRAM, I'd love to know what it is. The bottom line is, I'm not saying you should fall in love with modern SRAM, but you should give it a go. Having said that, Shimano equipment is amazing and if you like it there's no reason to move away.
Hi I’ve just sold my gravel bike too , for the same reason ( I need a ebike ) My age and medical condition. I have just purchased Merida eScultura 400 Electric Road Bike 2023 - Black . It’s very comfortable it’s more endurance. I got it for a little off road and wet roads . Unlike my Ribble Sle which is more racy , which I like when riding in a faster group . Hope you have a look at Merida . Or there the van rysel. Both bikes have the Mahle 35 x motor and both are shimano 105 11 speed . Hope this helps . Kev
I have 2 X20 bikes, the Orbea gain m30i has had problems since I collected from the shop, the battery was faulty, and it took around 3 months to get the battery changed, while I was waiting for the Orbea to get fixed, I ended up getting a Mondraker Dusty R, the Mondraker is a competent bike, and coped with the C2C from Whitehaven to Tynemouth over 4 days.I now use the Orbea for mainly road riding and the Mondraker with 45c tyres for off-road gravel rides,
Thanks, useful information. I assume the Orbea is now fixed? Other than that initial problem, which sounds as though it wasn't dealt with very well, is that the only reliability issue you have had? How does the handling on the road of the Gain and the Dusty compare?
@@FiveMinuteVelo Yes, it is fixed, I prefer the bigger tyres on the dusty, and I do like the Front fork cage mounting points, the only downside with the Mondraker is the battery range, seems to get about 10 to 15% less range from a battery charge, both have the same battery 350wh capacity,
Interesting suggestion. Thank you. I'm not sure that the motor would have enough poke for touring? Also, the battery is a bit on the small side. I know one can get a range extender, but that's just extra expense and complication.
Thanks for the suggestion. If I were to go down the Ribble route I would probably go for a CGR or Gravel. The bikes are certainly fine apart from a few points. For me, the x35 system is good for general riding, but a bit weak for touring. The standard battery is also a bit on the small side, I know one can get a range extender but that's just extra expense and complication. However, for me Ribble's biggest downside is it's poor reputation for customer support.
@@FiveMinuteVelo then take a look at the newly announced Ribble All Road bike, it comes with the Mahle X20 motor & that's apparently 55nm torque, Vs the 40nm of the X35.
@@brookes79 > that x20 is a nice upgrade and the bigger battery helps. However, it still seems to be appealing more to my heart than my head. Nice bike but maybe a bit too racy, not enough options for carrying luggage. Thanks for alerting me though, I missed that one as it's only been announced very recently.
I'm glad you referenced the torque based bottom bracket. This for me has been the biggest differentiator between the X20 and X35 systems (also the X30 and X35). Though the rear through axle is also near and dear to my heart. I contacted Mahle regarding the torque sensing bottom bracket and they identified that it is not compatible with their X35 system (I had hoped that one could swap the chain sensor for the torque sensor prior to receiving that news). I then asked them if one has an ANT+ power meter if that could be used in lieu of their torque sensor, but did not receive a response. One other differentiator is that the X35+ system requires a hard wired connection to a computer via a special dongle to install firmware updates. This requires all to go to a bike shop for each update. The X30 and X20 systems are able to receive firmware updates via the mySmartBike app. I'm currently using the MySmartBike app connected to a heart rate monitor chest strap in order to control the assistance level of my X35 system. I've been curious if this feature is still available on the X20 and if so what this might look like. Could a combination of rider input and heart rate be used to determine the assistance provided by the bicycle? Would that be beneficial? Thank you for the video.
I recently rode 200 km on my new saddle, which is also full carbon and without padds. Everything was as you described in the video, after 90 km my trip turned into complete suffering. The conclusion I made is this - despite the manufacturers’ statements and nice advertising, only a padded saddles is suitable for long-distance rides.
Thank you very much, your feedback makes the effort of producing these videos worthwhile. If there's anything I have missed and that you would like to know, just ask.
Sorry but surely one of the main benefits that you mention in the dialogue but not in your summary of the benefits is the connection system of the X20 allowing the rear wheel to be dropped out easily if you get a puncture.
The AMC on the X20 system is certainly an attractive feature. I did think of putting it forward as a major benefit because of this superficial attractiveness. However, I got to thinking, in the last year I've only taken the wheel out three or four times. Although undoing and unplugging the x35 system when changing a wheel can be a bit of a chore, I haven't had to do it that often, and I wouldn't expect others to either. It was for that reason that I put it down as not being a great benefit. I do accept that others have different priorities to me and if it's seen as a benefit to them, who am I to argue?. Some may think the handlebar mounted button changes are a big benefit, others the straight pull spokes, others the reduction in weight ... I could go on. I'm not trying to make a decision for the viewer, just putting my views out there.
I managed a 10% grade, nothing much steeper where I did the test. On those grades I did not feel any great benefit, although I thought I could detect some, but not a lot. Do you have experience of both motors? In my experience, the hub motor is not so good for steep gradients because the motor cannot be geared down like a mid-motor. For that reason I would not recommend a hub motor for steep stuff.
@@FiveMinuteVelo How steep are you talking about? Rode my X35 bike up 12+% grade a few weeks ago with Level 1 assist at 30%, a climb that was tough for me even a decade ago with a triple crankset. I wonder what people expect, an e-moped or a bit of help going up when you need it?
@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 > true, a person's expectations are important. I, like you, like to do most of the work, but with the motor assisting. However, in an emergency, due to my medical condition, I like to have the ability to crank up the power. Other people, with different medical conditions, for instance, heart conditions, may be advised to keep their heart rate down and they may need more assistance. Anyway, irrespective of that, the idea was to compare the two systems, I didn't want to make judgements on how people would use them. Sorry about the copious use of comas.
@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 > My maximum climb during the test was about 10%. I did feel a bit of extra mid-range grunt on the motor, but not a lot. I accept that all certain grades, the difference may be more noticeable.
@@b.griffin317 > you are partly correct. Mahle seems to be numbering their products with lower numbers on the higher end (more expensive) products; it's not really about the date of release. For instance, the x30 system has just been released , which as you might expect, fits in between the x20 and the x35. I'll be publishing a video about riding the x20 and x35 systems later today. I'm currently working on an x30 video.
I got fake brand name MTB grips in the past. I won't order parts from those big distributors to begin with. That doesn't exactly resolve the potential problem. Fake parts do make it inside respected retailers unbeknownst to the owner. It happens when ppl try to save a dime or make a dime. The customer must always be on top of it by staying educated and on the ball. Return parts when it happens. Don't use it anyway. The problem will run more out of control if nobody does anything to push back.
Just bought the 4 piston version of this one for my Ltwoo GRT groupset because the ltwoo hydraulic brakes can not be mounted on my fork because of a weird patent ltwoo can not use
@@scolex8001 > I think Ltwoo got their knickers in a twist regarding these brakes. Other manufacturers don't seem to have an issue with flatmount standard. Whether the brakes will fit on your frame/forks depends on the mounting, mine were flat mount. The Ltwoo calipers should fit on flat mounts if you use the supplied adaptors. If you have post-mounts or IS mounts you would need to use a further adaptor. Obviously putting adaptors on adaptors is a bit silly, so perhaps you've done the right thing? I'll be interested to know how the dual-piston versions work with your (?) drop bar hydraulic levers. Terry
@@FiveMinuteVelo WORKS GREAT, I HAVE THE 4 PISTON ONES AND THEY FEEL GREAT AND WORK EVEN TOO WELL HAHA SO LOVE THEM sorry for caps, noticed it too late haha
I got caught out buying a fake kmc chain off Ebay last year .. the chain snapped first ride out in 3 different links while i was 8 miles out on a forest trail as you can imagine i was not amused
@@Lord-hoboco777 > you have my sympathy, I had one break too but it did have a few hundred kilometres of use. If you're lucky, they just wear out quickly, looks like you are not lucky.
@@FiveMinuteVelo the only luck i did have that day was i only had a few cuts and bruises and someone came by on an Ebike after a mile of pushing my mtb and gave me a tow the rest of the way back to civilization i got a full refund off the Ebay seller so i was lucky in that way
At 6.00 the close up the actual outter links look bigger in the fake to the real one, the heads look alot wider! Unbelievable even at it with KCM that middle cut being right to the edge though thats very concerning!
