Hey. My name is Matt and this channel is all about how I fix and make things. More specifically, older things. Speedometer cables, Old gauges from cars, Even older cars themselves. You'll see me take old gauges apart and repair them, make new cables for older applications and even little bits of me working on some of my own projects like older vehicles. So sit back and enjoy!
Don’t know your dad, but the fact he bought and maintained that toolbox in such great condition for 40 years speaks volumes about him. A good, honest, hardworking man 👍 Great toolbox! Now it can be preserved another 40 years
Loving that solder setup I have a Packout crate on top of my box for consumables... with a vice on the other side..... You going pretty hard on the have it but not need moto bro.... but I'm no different 😂. My addiction is pliers
Can you comment on the layer adhesion of the PC-CF? From what I hear layer adhesion in 3d printed PC is already not great, and that CF-fill just makes the layer adhesion of any filament worse. That is the only reason its not used for 100% of my high impact functional prints at this point (and the fact that its always out of stock lol)...
Its just the tolerances needed for free movement means there is slop. Ive printed this out myself. Make sure you are not suffering from elephants foot or warping before you commit to print. My version works but looks awful
Said the same-thing about a 1/4, breaker bar. End up using it for clearness on a nut on a trailer. So never say never. Now that I don’t work at the place, no more. I haven’t touched it since. But it’s ready for the next time
Great video! Where did you buy the speedo ends and what are their 'technical' names? I can't find them online. Where did you buy the speedo wire squared tools? I have a scooter workshop and speedo cables are used in 90% of them. Thanks
I have a speedometer shop and I have all the ends, ferrules, casing you name or for all kinds of applications. my website is www.mrspeedometer.com I have a catalog on the website with all the various stuff I have along with some of it on the website itself with me adding more to it all the time
I want to say that clean up is to often used for tool box, BUT,LESS IS MORE WIPE OUT THE DUST WIPE WITH SOLVENT, but repainting is not good. Keep the original patina. Stickers if they have meanings to the history of the box leave them alone my roll-always one spent 30 plus years working on aircraft at Northrop in Los Angeles years of cigarette smoke, coffee, being Hauled to Edwards AFB, Palmdale, and other locations my other one was not well traveled as hauling tools great distances ended about the time I started working. But I also collected stickers and hell I made 12’ squadrons stickers for test stands. So a sticker to cover the back of the roll-away was easy. So go gentle on clean-ups you may erase your legacy and history.
This is definitely user error. Not material problems. Yes, Nylon has a steep learning curve. I have some of the worst nylon out there and it prints just fine on glass with a couple heavy layers of either glue stick or Magigoo. I print it on a modified Ender 3 (microswiss direct drive extruder and all metal hot end) with no enclosure and it prints great. That said... The Matterhackers Nylon is very hit and miss. You should be buying Polymaker or COEX to have a better success rate. I know it's far more costly than MH Filament, but you get what you pay for with Nylon filaments. I hear a lot of people raving about G10 sheet for a build surface, but one thing is 100% FOR SURE. Build tac of any kind is a NO GO for nylon.
Drying nylon is a must. A .50kg spool can take three days to dry. A 3 kg spool 10 or more days. It also depends on the manufacturer . Nylon loves moisture.
I hear the lack of PCCF stock has been dut to Prusas carbon fiber supplier delaying shipments to them 3 times due to the supplier moving locations. Joeseph replies to a comment on Reddit that that the PCCF should be in stock soon and does not expect any future stocking issues going forward. Just orderd a roll out of Australia for $84 just so I had one roll to test in the mean time.
I am having this type of counter cable and experiencing a slight delay at counter. I found the lag in cable tips when rotated. What can be done to avoid this?
My own experience using PC Blend CF somewhat mirrors your own. Seems to me it prints even easier than PLA or PETG, and the results come out near perfect. But I plan to test it now using the clearance castle test print, so see how it does on the fine details and clearances.
Your acting like that part is not going to work lol.. it literally looks perfect.. the fact that it spins means absolutely nothing unless your trying to print a gasket....
I use my dad's boxes he bought in 1973 every day doing auto body. They look NOS. I could get better, but all they hold are my hand tools and odds and ends but the retro look is killer.