Never Printing With Nylon X, Nylon G or Nylon K Again........

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I finally gave up. I had enough of trying to make this filament work with endless types of adhesives. Endless cleaning with IPA. Endless tweaking with the settings to the point I just had enough. I am never going to print anything with Nylon X, Nylon G or Nylon K again. If I ever need to print anything or rather want to print with anything with a fiber filled medium, I am going to be using the Prusament Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate. It just works. The other stuff just doesn't and i'm sick of trying to get it to work. So here is my final rant about the comparison of these two filaments.
These links are NOT affiliate links. I am not sponsored by anyone.
Prusament Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
www.prusa3d.co...
Nylon X
www.matterhack...
Nylon G
www.matterhack...
Nylon K
www.matterhack...
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Опубликовано:

4 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 29

@outkast187 Год назад

Dry it, keep drying while printing, use heated chamber...glue stick..done.

@seaned7525 10 месяцев назад

Drying nylon is a must. A .50kg spool can take three days to dry. A 3 kg spool 10 or more days. It also depends on the manufacturer . Nylon loves moisture.

@Larsen514 Год назад

Enclosure is certainly a must but whats even more important is the temperature inside that enclosure. The circulation of air is not the issue, its the change in temperature. Theoretically, the ideal ambient temperature is somewhere just below the glass transition temp, but of course thats not realistic. I use an insulated enclosure and let the ambient temp rise past 60*c and then I start the print. You really need it to be a furnace in there.

@JoeStoffa 2 года назад

I think you're right to stick with PC-CF if it works for you, but I wanted to throw out a few things I've learned. With build-tak; clean with soapy water, IPA, and windex (in that order). Also, I have a real heated chamber printer ($$$), a lot of the benefit of heated enclosures comes from temperatures in the 70-100C range, which is beyond what you can reach in a standard consumer printer with a box over it (your stepper motors will start to skip before you reach those temps). Nylon works for me, but I do find PC CF to be easier. Also, you may want to check the "minimum time per layer" setting or similar in your slicer, a lot of problems come from the hot end dumping heat into the plastic faster than conduction/convection can remove it, and printing slower (or printing many parts at once) will fix it.

@GuppyRook 2 года назад

I use Garolite sheet contact-cemented to a steel sheet, with no glue stick or liquid. I use a 15mm brim. I heat my enclosure with a 400W cube heater from Amazon. I installed insulation sheet inside my enclosure so the heat doesn't leak out. All these things and I still have a problem with PA-11. But CF-nylon, GF-nylon seem to grip into the surface of the Garolite sheet. No lifting at all. And the small cube heater with it's modest speed quiet fan keeps the chamber at 55C, and the steppers seem to handle it (I moved the electronics to outside the enclosure) and the chamber heat keeps the parts from warping or splitting as the nozzle moves away from the bed.

@mattmakenfix9411 2 года назад

I'll have to get a garolite sheet for the future should I decide to print with nylon again

@joeldriver381 2 года назад

Garolite is under rated!

@MyTechFun 2 года назад

Have you tried Polymaker Nylons? They claim it has some warp-free technology. I will try it soon.

@mattmakenfix9411 2 года назад

I can add it to my list of things to try out. All sorts of people have stuff coming out nowadays.

@brandoncrimmins6296 8 месяцев назад

This is definitely user error. Not material problems. Yes, Nylon has a steep learning curve. I have some of the worst nylon out there and it prints just fine on glass with a couple heavy layers of either glue stick or Magigoo. I print it on a modified Ender 3 (microswiss direct drive extruder and all metal hot end) with no enclosure and it prints great. That said... The Matterhackers Nylon is very hit and miss. You should be buying Polymaker or COEX to have a better success rate. I know it's far more costly than MH Filament, but you get what you pay for with Nylon filaments. I hear a lot of people raving about G10 sheet for a build surface, but one thing is 100% FOR SURE. Build tac of any kind is a NO GO for nylon.

@bentracy7463 2 года назад

I'd certainly like to try garolite as others mentioned, but I've had great success with nylonX on just basic glass and glue stick. Printer is a modified Ender 3 Pro with an enclosure. 265 nozzle, 85 bed, nothing crazy. Anything larger than a few cm gets a brim, up to 24 lines or so for big parts. I recently stumbled across your Prusament CF-PC vs nylonX video as I'm looking into a PC option for bracketry. In this case though, I still use nylonX for some parts because of the chemical resistance. I've printed carburetor venturis and even TBI injector bodies from the stuff with no issues once I got it tuned in. Sorry to see you had so many issues with it.

@mattmakenfix9411 2 года назад

I've had nothing but success with Prusament CF-PC. I use it for all kinds of things.

@naasking Год назад

I too use a glass bed but with hairspray and eSun PA-CF.

@bentracy7463 Год назад

As a bit of an update I've actually switched to using G11 at ~100C for NylonX. I find it holds better than G10 and doesn't require any adhesive even for large parts. With a flex plate it also makes part removal quite easy. This is with a chamber heated to about 60C.

@josiahong5177 2 года назад

Think its mostly MH nylon. IDK if you have tried Polymaker nylon, but its pretty much warp free. Prints like PLA but hot. Edit: so many people suggested polymaker lol.

@equinoxtacticalsupply7732 2 года назад

Have you tried to use a brim or print your parts on a raft

@aguerr211 2 года назад

Printing with nylonx on a PEI sheet and glue stick....zero lift. Not sure what went wrong on your attempts though, glad the Prusament worked for you though

@aidandavies7232 2 года назад

Enclosure, 260 degrees nozzle, 70 bed Bostik Blu gluestick on buildtak with 20 loop raft. This works.

@techdegenerate286 2 года назад

Nano polymer adhesive his great but yeah in my experience PC is mucher easier to print than PA. Also Ive heard polymaker nylon is great. Lastly letting you know the CF in Prusa PC blend CF is recycled waste fiber it only adds to dimensional stability not strength. Other manufacturers us a premium chopped carbon fiber such as 3DX Tech. PC doesn't get enough love!

@mattmakenfix9411 2 года назад

Yeah, PA has a bit of a learning curve to it. The nano polymer adhesive works pretty well, but I haven't had too much use for it.