Musicians Institute’s Guitar Craft Academy Nashville is dedicated to inspiring excellence in the art of guitar building and design, while preparing students for careers in the music industry. By providing hands-on instruction from top professionals in a state-of-the-art educational environment, we give students the skills necessary to achieve their goals. We strive to develop a diverse array of talented individuals who can enrich the global community by contributing their expertise and craftsmanship.
As far as the output jack goes, I like the idea of a bore brush. The ID of a 1/4" jack is about 6mm or .23" so a .22 or .223 brush would probably work well. I think a 9mm would be too large though.
This is brilliant - just what I needed. I had a G string that was cut too low and it was making the string sound dull and muffled when played open. All of the rest of the strings spot on the money, but just the G was anissue - so used this technigue tojust raise that slot a little. Thanks for sharing this handy advice - saved me replacing the entire nut :)
Very interesting! I've never seen this method of using a Capo during string height adjustments. I've got Jazzmasters a 66 and a reissue 65. Love them, but they are a bear to dial-in when changing string gauges. I'm going to give this a try. Thanks for this Setup and Maintenance Series. Clearly explained and demoed.
The first time I've looked up how to set string action. May I ask why the capo is needed? Also, I'm discovering that the big name music stores here Toronto Ontario area don't even sell a radius gauge, under-saddle gauge, any name I try, which is a bit surprising. Very helpful video, though. I have learned a lot.
i can only assume putting the capo on takes the nut height out of the equation and brings the string closer to the curve of the fretboard, it is weird when instructionals say to do something but dont explain the why behind it.
@@namreg944my guess is the fret will more accurately represent the proper height and curvature to the neck as a posed to hoping all of the string spots in the nut are cut to the correct depths. I wouldn't be surprised if manufacturers would err on the side of caution and not go low on nut string slot depth. New customers can more easily notice fret buzz of action too low as opposed to high nut action which at least sounds more clean and the extra difficulty and detune of having to press down farther is more subtle and harder for inexperienced players to identify. Just a theory though.
@@Falconryder He has a point. He mentions when some of the strings are below the radius that this could be a problem, so the solution here by assumption, is to file down all the saddles, which isn't mentioned in the video. Tuneomatic bridges are retarded.
Tbh it's much easier to check the radius on the bridge if you lay the radius tool over the strings, not under the strings. Of course for the fretboard it's easier as done in the video
I hate my tune-o-matic. I can never get it right. Always something is buzzing or the sustain of the note does not sustain for long enough... and I have all the tools necesarry to do the job... ehh
Wtf is stair step? And you didn’t address getting the trem bridge straight, as mine is angled. Im assuming due to tension on springs is off. This didn’t help me one bit.
OK I`m Canadian and we use the Metric system however being born in the early 60`s I also know the Imperial system. So that said, 4/32 nd actually is 1/8 th on an inch.....please people do it right.
I’ve never heard of checking 12 fret string height with a capo. That adds confusion to what Gibson recommends which is 6/64ths at the low E and 4/64ths at the high E.
This is the single best set-up video I've found. Concise and direct. The neck relief straight edge/feller gauge technique is the foundation........its simple but super effective.
@MI Guitar Craft Academy Nashville Did you actually just say that tune-o-matic bridge is easy to adjust, becase he only has 2 screws to adjust, and there is not much you can do about each string?
Great video. One minor vocabulary mistake. 1:03 you say the glue is "very viscous like water". Viscous means thick and sticky. I think you mean it's very thin like water. (hope this helps 😊)
I go with barely any space when doing the hold down test. Space you can't see. As long as you hear a plink while holding down tne string between the 2nd and 3 frets, you're good. Thats small space is basically 002-005. All I need. Unless its actually sitting on the fret, imo it's not too low. Slide a piece of notebook paper under it and should have some resistance, but fit
@@amaguptyes, you want all the strings to make the "plink" sound. Don't waste your time with any over priced tools. Simply capo the third fret and measure by tapping or flicking the strings above the first fret. Then lower according to taste.
It will work without glue but glue is very useful in preventing the toothpick falling out as crumbs the next time you take screw out, or even to hold it in a little before screw. Always screw in while wet though
After measuring the heights you'd want to check the sound for if you need any more adjustments. The best height will be affected by the strings you're using, the pickups, and preference. It would be useful to demo what it sounds like with the pickups too far away and too close.
