I possess a natural gift for repairing anything that crosses my path. It pains me deeply to hear stories of individuals being taken advantage of by small engine shops. Whether it's a lawnmower or a snow thrower, these essential tools often fail us at the most inconvenient times - just before a snowstorm or when the grass is growing uncontrollably. Aware of our desperation, mechanics exploit the situation, charging exorbitant fees just under the cost of a new machine.
I share my knowledge through videos, not seeking profit or fame. Remaining anonymous allows me to focus solely on my mission: to empower and educate others. My heart's desire is to equip you with the skills to mend your own equipment. In doing so, you not only gain valuable knowledge but also retain hard-earned money that can be better invested in yourself and your loved ones.
Thanks for this. I have the same model and cleaned the carb twice and still wouldn’t start. Your video showed how me how to take the main jet out and when I did, it was plugged solid. Got it started after clearing the jet. Question though. The motor hunts for RPM. It did this before too. The throttle goes back and forth until I am actually spaying water or loading the engine. Any ideas why?
Note: not all spindles have grease fittings & even if you install one on your spindle, doesn't mean the grease will reach the bearings. This is because most mowers have sealed bearings. I have a Poulan Pro 42 in. 19 HP Briggs & Stratton Automatic Gas Front-Engine Lawn Tractor. It has sealed bearings because they want you to have to buy new spindles.
I suggest you watch James Condon clean a carb. While you both do the same steps, he does them in a different order resulting in the carb getting a better clean in the ultrasonic
Ok my friend. Why dont you just spray carb cleaner up in there? Your carb doesnt look nowhere near dirty to have to do all this. My gen hasnt ran in 3 years, no probs. I can see doing this if its old, dirty and giving you problems.
Man I have a predator generator 6500 amp 301 thats not starting I'm thinking I need to do this with the carborator I've had it for about 4 years it's been there for me through the freeze and hurricane beryl. It stopped working right after the storm.where can I get the cleaning solution for soaking the carborator?
I enjoyed that video. Very well done!!! MY favorite part was the ending..."that can only mean one thing" looks like another one is good to go"......😂😂😂😂
This video was exactly what I needed. My generator was sitting with gas in it for a couple years. I had to clean the tank and gas valve but this tutorial on the carburetor was what started her right up. Thank you!
Big Thankyou from Houston Texas!!! Hurricane Beryl wiped out the power and we couldn’t get our generator started. Followed what you did step by step and now we have our refrigerator and AC unit going. 🎉
Your Video was a life saver! Had a power outage and I went to use my Predator 6500 and it would not start. Got online , found your channel and bam, works like new! Took me all of 45 min. Thank ya much!
I have a cat 3gxt27..the three brass plugs on top of the manifold..two have the plastic close to the top...the one near the inlet port sits way down low...i dont see how it would work...im wondering if someone has been in it...the pump came off a ridgid brand washer 3000 psi..Subaru engine
Hey I put multipurpose gasket seal on the sump cover and put it on, followed its instructions, then torqued the bolts. When I went to put the flywheel on, it would not turn the crankshaft. Do you know what the problem is and how I can fix this?
The first question I have to ask is if it is an actual Honda Crankshaft? Aftermarket crankshafts won't work on Hondas. If it is OEM, then I would check the torque on the connecting rod. If it is too tight it won't allow the engine to rotate. Also, check the torque on the sump cover, Too tight will prevent it from turning. Remove the coil to ensure it's not binding up on the flywheel. Hope the info helps.
It is an actual Honda crankshaft, I torqued the sump cover bolts as told by you, first to 9 ft lbs then to 18 ft lbs and 2 of those bolts broke at 18 ft lbs.
I removed the sump cover, removed all the gasket material to test if the flywheel would spin. And the flywheel spun without gasket material and hand tightened. How much honabond do I need to put it on to keep it from binding?
@@ceej9577 It doesn't take much Hondabond, any excess would get pushed out during the torque procedure. I think you might want to look over the main journals. They might have been damaged during the blade strike.
@@ceej9577 The bolts would break if either the threads are damaged, The torque wrench hasn't been calibrated, or the bolts have been exposed to too much heat. It's not unheard of for a bolt to break during torquing.
LOL, Sometimes it's easy to fix for some people. while sometimes it's easier for others to fix it. Knowing one's extent for repairing it themselves is a key part. I hope you'll get it back up and running either way. Cheers!
Nice video, were can I get this part and whats the part number? I have the same mower, my mom run over a tree stump and bent the the crank shaft😓 .please help
I'm always available to help out when I can. Could you put the mower Model Number here and I can look up the exact crankshaft part number for you. The model number will be behind the engine on a placard. The mowers look the same externally but, could have minor differences. The last thing you would want to do is buy the wrong crank.
The crankshaft part number is 13311-Z9L-000 if the sump seal is still good you can reuse it, if not you will need part number 91202-Z9V-003. The part numbers are based off of the model number you provided. There should be a set of numbers that look like GCBT-1234566 that will give the exact engine to look up. Hope this info helps. Cheers! The SEM.
Greetings Tony! Sorry for the delay of the response. The puller is made by Wilde. It's a great pair of Angle Tip Lock Ring Pliers to remove the seals without causing damage to them. I do believe I bought them through EDI, but I found the same pair on Amazon for about $20 less. Here is a link if you would like to check them out. amzn.to/3xc8a25 Cheers! The S.E.M
A common one would be P/N 114-7977-03 but, for the exact one for your mower I would need to know the Model number and the first 4 numbers of the Serial number.
I'm glad the video helped! Something I do with my generator is to set an alarm on my phones calendar for the 15 of each month to remind me to run it for at least 15 minutes. That way, it will always be ready if/when I need it.
Nice video. Problem I have is the pully on the crank shaft is seized on. And the spur gears won't come all the way off. I purchased new spur gears to mesh with the metal gear wheels.
You might need to use a two or three-arm pulley puller for the crankshaft pulley. Make sure you spray the grears with some PB Blaster if they don't want to come off.
@@TheSmallEngineMechanic I tried the jaw puller. Wouldn't budge, i dont really need it off to put it back together. And the old cams on the axle wouldn't go over the end they would slide but not come off. I pulled the axle out of the box to remove..
Just found your channel. This video is what I was looking for. I have the 9000 version that I have left sitting for 1yr. If people can't understand that that some people need to use ai voice to communicate sorry for them. You adapt and over come obstacles put in your path. Add one more subscriber to your list. 👍👍👍👍
What type hydraulic fluid should be replaced and what filter? That's the only thing I see missing. I ask cause my mower is 30 ish years old and I haven't changed the hydraulic fluid... Might be a good time..
Greetings! Thank you for the questions. The most common hydro filter is the Textron part number 2720396, the oil is a standard 10w30 oil. Hope it helps!
No problem at all. Make sure you drain the oil from the engine before standing the mower on its end.. Also, pulling the spark plug before standing the mower will help with allowing any oil that makes it past the rings exit the cylinder.
@@TheSmallEngineMechanic Thank you for the advise. I started the job without draining the oil. Now that I've cleaned up my garage floor, I'll drain the oil and pull the spark plug to make sure I don't hydro-lock the engine. Cheers!
@dingdingding4033 so I did finally get it to work for 2 jobs. Not sure if the oil just needed to cycle though a but but I read some scary reviews on it so fingers crossed it keeps working. Any luck with yours? Or did you return it?
If it is new, then I would take it back to the store and get a replacement. If you do too much to try to get it running again then it could void the warranty. If you would like to separate the issue between the fuel system and the electrical side you could spray a small amount of brake cleaner in the carb and if it starts there could be an issue with the carb. If it does start, try draining some fuel out of the carb into a glass jar to see if there is anything in the fuel.
@TheSmallEngineMechanic Thanks! So I figured something out. It works everytime if I spray the gun while pull starting it. Lol really wierd but it's the only way I can get it to start. I appreciate your reply.
@666SLAYTANIK by squeezing the trigger, it allows the water in the pump to be released. If not, as soon as you start to pull, start it the pump will start making pressure and will make it harder to start.
Just what I needed to see at 24:55 what did you use to get the blade mount and rear drive pulley off?? I tried a tradition gear puller but can’t get ahold of anything. thanks so much brother!
So having issues with the spring pulling it back also did loosen the governor tried a few other things but I’ve noticed things engine doesn’t like to be played with to make power (gotta her running a go cart
Hello, thank you for reaching out. Based on your description, it seems like you're experiencing a throttle return issue with the motor installed on your go-kart. If the throttle is difficult to return to the idle position, adjusting the tension on the manual arms center nut might help. It should be loosened to a point where the throttle can smoothly return to idle on its own. Referencing the provided video, specifically at the 02:08 mark, locate the manual throttle nut positioned between the spring and the extension shown on screen. Try loosening this nut slightly and observe if it improves the throttle's return action.
