@@henrikkjolhede6413 it is relay, I bought usb relay that can be controlled from script. Then in openpnp you can call the script. Also I have made a board that use MOSFET to control the light, it is similar as the usb relay. Just search usb relay, you can find the product in for ex. AliExpress.
@@xpdiy So I am new to OpenPnP, and can get it mostly working with a Marlin board. But how do you control the usb relay via script? Can you open a virtual com port via a python script? Can't find much documentation on what modules are available.
@@henrikkjolhede6413 I am using the usb relay with usb to serial chip, so it is treated as serial port, and I was using bash script to write to serial port. For windows, you can use Powershell.
@@xpdiy Thank you! Found a way to call an external program from an OpenPnP script and wrote a quick python script to toggle the relay. Thanks for the pointers!
@@xpdiy I plan to use oil as a seal for the Z axis. small gaps will completely allow this to be done. The pressure drop is not so great that the oil completely shifts. If this is not enough, then yes, we will have to use another method. I hope we will make a real device in the near future.
Hey XYDIY, I was wondering what version of merlin your running on your printer? Was it something you compiled or a preset you had? Ive noticed that mapping was more troubling and I believe its related to my enders firmware. Since I've swapped the board previously.
Hello, for all printer I have, they are working out of the box. They all have Marlin 2.x version. Is that axis mapping do you mean here? Only for rotation mapping, I need to disable cold extrusion prevention, you can put M302 P1 in home command to disable that, so you can map E axis to C rotation.
Hey @@xpdiy, I was relating in getting the unit to move with the joystick controller in OpenPnP. I do have it disabling in the Home action, I'm mainly trying to make sure I can have movement working in openPnP before I start ordering additonal parts. I'm personally working with an Ender3 V1. since i had it laying around. Also Thank you for the quick reply!
Little follow-up I was able to get Openpnp working. The Com port drivers were acting funky on my laptop. I'm now trying to impliment what you have done on a Ender 3 V1.
If you're not doing it already (not clear from the video) I think it might be possible to extend the front Y of "lego" baseplate to allow feeders to be installed where the bulk of the feeder body is outside the range of the head (since only the area around the component window needs to be in range). It would free some unused space and allow larger boards, or more feeders. Of course, this assumes that the particular machine doesn't have other elements that would block something that hangs off the front of the table.
This is indeed a good idea, I think it is totally possible to extend, at some point I was thinking about this as well, what stopped me is I need to find a way to fix the extended part on the metal plate well, that will give another 3 to 4 centimeter, thanks for bring that up! I might give it another go as well.
It may not be necessary to fasten to the metal plate. It might be sufficient to just reinforce the extension with a separate 3d printed part that fastens to the lego baseplate. Perhaps that also snaps to the edge and/or sides of the baseplate with a lip or step. I think the most force would be when installing the feeders. Otherwise, I don't think they'd flex or move much in operation.
Put the pcb, feeder pickup, and camera at the same z height so that you only have to z retract a few mm between movements. You can also put the feeders closer to the camera to get your speed up. Another idea would be to put the camera on the moving head pointed downwards at a slight angle to the tip, you would have to un-skew the camera output but could do the camera work while it's moving to get even higher speeds.
Thanks for sharing the ideas, optimizing the layout will help for sure. Tilting the top camera is an interesting idea, not sure if that will affect accuracy, but worth a try.
You know you can change the focus of the cameras to suit your working distances? It usually requires breaking of the glue drop they place on the threads but once free they are easily adjusted. This is assuming you are using fixed focus cameras (because focus is so poor) and it is not practical with autofocus on CV systems as it changes the aspects of image.
Dude made a lego print and place machine with a 3 printer. This is pretty neat tbh. I see its based off that velcro desgine i had seen online a while back.
I cant find info anywhere on the hardware components of this. If you need help with some dev I am pretty proficient in C++ and PCB design. Let me know.
Main challenge is when component is attached to the nozzle, the acceleration cannot be too high, or the component might move. This can be improved by setting carefully acceleration, jerk,.etc, and also by adjusting suction pression. The speed in the video is set to be slow, I think it can be much faster, but not as fast as 3d printer.
Thanks, I am making some kits and will put on my website soon. Or you can download the model from my website and print out. To assemble, you can check my video, if any question, just send me a mail on contact@xpdiy.io
Hey, I like this project. :) I was just thinking about the Z weight and overall bulk. I know there's this hollow NEMA8, that on one end fits a commercial Philips nozzle and a tube on the other end. Goes by the Serie nr. BT1040. Could be something for this project. ^^ cost about a $100,- Is going this route more cost effective? Kind regards, John
Thanks, BT1040 is also a good choice, the weight is lower, the benefit I like is also coaxiality is good. I didnt use is actually because of the price, the 42 stepper are quite cheap, about 10 EUR, plus some bearing. But definitely BT1040 is worth considering.
Your video has given me a great start with configuring OpenPnP to work with your PnP mods, which I have implemented on an Ender 5, although I'm now about to enter the uncharted territory not covered by your great video, so wish me luck 🙂 As I have a BL Touch on my Ender 5, and didn't want to screw up the Z Offset tuning every time I changed from 3DP to PnP, I've created a 3D part which slots over the head carriage plate and secures the BL Touch in place, to which either a new custom fan shroud can be mounted (including a four pin plug for the constant and PWM fans) for 3D printing, or the rotator / vvacuum head can be mounted for PnP, with only two screws being required to swap between the two. I've also implemented a full harness for the PnP head, which holds the rotator wiring (highjacked from the extruder), the top camera USB cable, the top light switched power supply and the vacuum tube. I've implemented a multi-relay board, controlled with USB serial comms, to switch between the extruder / PWM fan and the rotator / vacuum pump, as well as controlling the top and bottom camera LED strips, so there's no need to disturb any of the wiring when I want my 3D print in PnP mode, I just run a couple of scripts in OpenPnP, the relays click and we're good to go 🙂 Can I contribute my extra parts (and some 'improved' versions of some of your parts) back to you in some way?
Impressive improvements! I always wanted to make swtich easier and manage the cables, nice job! For the mod you wish to open source, you can create pull request to github.com/xpDIY/3DPlacer, then I can merge in. For the design you want to sell, I can help putting link in my website. Just ping me on contact@xpdiy.io
@@xpdiy thanks for the positive feedback 🙂Nope, nothing to sell here, it's open source for me. I've not really used Git, so don't expect much from my first Pull Request ;-) I'll just try something simple first and see if that works!
This is really great, I am very interested in this project as and can't wait to see how it continues to develop! How are you determining the position on the grid? Are there any limitations to the number of devices you can detect or how large the grid can be?
Thanks, the position is determined by resistor dividing, it is able to support a bit more than 50 positions, which means 40cm x40cm range, what put on the plate can be detected.
This is truly intriguing. Firstly, is the baseplate a conventional Lego sheet? Am I accurate in understanding that the baseplate PCB comprises three lanes, with each cell featuring 17 pads? Are you establishing connections between the feeders and the PCB through pogo-pins? Additionally, could you clarify which BUS protocol you are utilizing-is it I2C?
The baseplate has the same size with Lego sheet, but height of bump is higher (4mm). For the PCB, yes, it is 3 lanes with 17 pads, the communication happen with 5 pogo pins, I will share the spec later on my website. And the data is transferred through UART @115200bps. Most chip should be able to support.
what about using two metal strips for power? you can place them on the mounting base and provide power from underneath to all the feeders which are is the same row
Good idea, thought about that as well, could be an easy solution, currently I am working on a solution that can provide power, also can provide position info, I will give some update soon.
Currently I am working on a position aware solution that when plug in, it gets the power and also position info from the plate. I am still thinking if I can remove the battery to save on cost.
You could offset the stepper motor from the mount by few mm by using a nut as a spacer to allow the heat to dissipate OR use a vibration dampener mount.
You’ve been doing a great job! I’ve watched since you started and your evolution is awesome! I’ve worked with electronics since age 7 I’m 63 now! I’ve avoided working with smt components because my hands and eyes are just not able to! I have 8 3d printers and I will be dedicating 1 to pnp' keep up the great work!
