Thank you sir. Never even knew this was possible. Only just today discovered they were even called a garter spring. Was close to buying a replacement seal with spring for my vibratory plate compactor,. The seal still looked good though, & now by reducing the existing spring, seems like I've got all sealed tight enough against the exciter shade. Will keep an eye on it over next wk.
I have the same problem. Tiny groove worn on the camshaft carrier on a Trooper, coincidentally. Was thinking of sanding a 1mm off the oil seal so it seats a little further back. But this could help too.
Hi there, thanks for doing this video, could you tell me if you throttle butterfly plates need to be removed, or can you just delete the EGR by blocking that vacuum hose? I was thinking of trying to source a stop tap so i coukd switch it back on at MOT time
Could oil in this connector affect oil pressure in any way? Just wondering if information between the ecu and engine is compromised by the oil conducting the voltage/signal between the pins?
THE ORPS sensor eventually PUSHES oil into its 3 PINK wires. They are GROUND, 5V and info/centre. If you replace loom ALSO replace ORPS sensor. The YELLOW, BLACK, RED wires (SAME side, NEXT to each other at the engine plug are the ORPS wires. Simply NICK/small split the insulation on the 3 PINK wires that mate with the yel,blk,red wires at engine plu. These 3 pinks will eventually slowly leak oil but wont go into engine plug and beyond since there is now pressure relief at the splits. Don't cover or seal, simply spray some chain lube on it and forget. The other 7 wires are injector (5) and oil temp (2) and don't cause a problem. Too easy :)
What a great solution. I was wondering if I strip the insulation back part way along the wire with a wire stripper I have (Klein Tools 11063W Wire Cutter / Wire Stripper) and just apply some solder to the exposed wire directly. If I do that to each wire say 1/2" apart I won't get shorting between wires and can use RTV to seal the open soldered wire.
THE ORPS sensor eventually PUSHES oil into its 3 PINK wires. They are GROUND, 5V and info/centre. If you replace loom ALSO replace ORPS sensor. The YELLOW, BLACK, RED wires (SAME side, NEXT to each other at the engine plug are the ORPS wires. Simply NICK/small split the insulation on the 3 PINK wires that mate with the yel,blk,red wires at engine plu. These 3 pinks will eventually slowly leak oil but wont go into engine plug and beyond since there is now pressure relief at the splits. Don't cover or seal, simply spray some chain lube on it and forget. The other 7 wires are injector (5) and oil temp (2) and don't cause a problem. Too easy :)
I didn’t have as much play with the new alternator as it seems you did , I went over your video a few times too check. I couldn’t tighten the belts anymore . My plug is hard up against the water pump hose
At 5:33 minutes in the video I mentioned belts and there lengths, I ended up using a longer belt because the pulley on the alternator was larger. You may need an even longer belt if it continues to cause. you issues. Thanks for watching.
Hello at 11:45 you say noise because NEW alternator uses PWM... is there anyway of being able to detect or tell if an alternator your about to buy uses PWM or not???
Thanks for your energy videos, keep them coming, i recently bought a manual 98 jackaroo SE 3.0td 4JX1. Been going flawlessly for 1.5 years, until the dreaded not starting. It's so not starting, but the more i research the more i live these things. Very interested in doing some mods. My engine has always taken FOREVER to get to operating temperature. 🙄😮💨 The cold start button on the dash only works below 7c right. I'd that a wastegate flap or something??
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Hi, have a opel monterey 3.0 dti 4jx1, I have a problem with the EGR, MAP, etc. vacuum pipes, I don't know where each one has to go, my mechanic disconnected them and now they don't fit correctly, could you make a video of how they should be placed? Thank you
Hi there, I'd like to see a video that shows how to turn on the turbo, on opel monterey rs 3.1 td, 1993. Its not working since the engine was switched. Thanks!
Do you have any photos of the routing of the harness etc around the inlet manifold. I took mine off to clean it out and am having issues knowing where things route around the manifold
Me working after this,I'm just looking for surplus cap from defective appliance, 470 uF but lesser volt available just 16 vdc.then follows where to connect to relay terminal and it works.Thank you for this.
Yes mine also works after this video ,the belt replaced from 950 to 1000 to fit ,the socket replaced and relay buzzing out after installing cap 470 uF parallel to its coil.Thanks for this .
Excellent appreciate your explanation I have a countershaft sprocket seal that’s leaking and it’s brand new and it’s the third one I put on so evidently it needs to be tighter and I thought about this but didn’t understand how to spring came apart very very good explanation you actually answered a big problem dealing with on my 650 Honda XR dirtbike great! Great idea the pointed in and the flat end explains at all thank you my name is Thomas Fresno California