I have the EMR five pin module hei ignition system ,The 5th pin is for distributor ignition timing advance and retard through use of an electrical vacuum switch connected from carburetor to switch to distributor 5th pin wire. No knock sensor connection.On my 1980 oldsmobile delta 88.
I'm going to try this with my truck I just deleted all the smog equipment and put a set of headers on that old 305 and now it doesn't run for shit, it falls on its face every time I kick the secondaries in so I'm going to try this trick and see if it runs okay
I almost scrapped my camry because a new pcv valve made a clattering noise so bad it sounded like the valve train took a shit, or vvt sprocket was about to throw the chain. I put the old one back in, & noise gone. Engine sounds like a normal DI engine now. Youd think id have figured it out sooner, but it had been parked for years due to overheating. By the time i got back to fixing that part, i forgot all about the new pcv valve. They can make deathly noises!
Hi there I got an 86 c10 with a sbc 350 it gots manifold on it right now. Would this headers bolt on and clear the frame ? Or do I need any notching on the headers or frame ?
Hey man, i have a 93, if you jump those wires, how does it advance? The problem im having is that it wont advance. Ive replaced the entire distributor, computer, and knock sensor, and its gives me code 42 43 for knock sensor, and esc.
This is not the E.S.C.M. what you're pointing out and jumping wires to us called the ignition control module(ICM). The ESCM is located on (what I know for sure) 88-92 350 motors. It is a black electrical component on a bracket passenger side of the intake.
Um....No. Ignition Control Module is located INSIDE the HEI distributor. ESC is exactly as I described in the video. Check your info there bud...we are talking 81-86 NOT 88-92
I got an 88 corvette and my timing is screwed up. If I use my vacuum advance on the distributor can I just unplug the ESC ? There's a plug I can disconnect apparently to disable it then adjust the timing. Can I just leave it disconnected or so I need to just wires... I'm so annoyed
81. Heads. Headers. Intake. Carb. Super coil. And. Much more. An And I need. Help help with a push button kill. Switch. Really. For. Light what not starting on. A. Motorcycles. Got. Will a toggle. Help. PlZzzzzzz,
Thanks for your Video! What can i do, if i would like to change the existing HEI Distributor (OEM w/ ESC Connector) with a regular HEI Distributor (without ICM / ESC connection)? can i simply unplug this 4 Pin (Brown / Green / White / Black) Connector and disconnect the "Thin Orange" at HEI Bat. I have a 1982 Chevy G20 V8 305 CUI. Thanks for your help
Sir, I know what your problem is going to be with this engine. It is most definitely going to be in the head. Engine has excessive blow by in the valve train up top. When you said you were getting on it and then you heard this noise, also, you indicate there is a lot of pressure coming out of there.. You will find absolutely that you have a problem with one of the cylinder heads or both. It is time for a valve job, Sir.. The fact that the noise went away is only because you disable the ability for it to make that noise. Sir, you need to remove the cylinder heads and have a valve job done because you have excessive ‘blow by’ which is only possible in the cylinder heads. ‘ The reason for the positive crankcase ventilation system, or the PCV. Is to recirculate the normal operating positive crankcase pressure backs through the base of the carburetor that is part of the old EPA. If you have so much “blow by “that it causes it to whistle, this is only possible through the cylinder heads… NOT SMOKING? Then ..There’s no reason to have excessive pressure coming out of the PCV and this is only possible through the cylinder heads sir .. The other scenario would be through this piston rings, and if that were the case you would be talking about “SMOKE” out of the tailpipe that is another reason why I say it is in the cylinder heads.. ‘Not rings’ Not hearing the whistle just means you don’t hear that. It’s broken sir. ..
You are %100 correct my friend. I always knew It had issues with the head and what you are saying helps to confirm what I thought. I eventually sold the truck to someone and told him it would need engine work. We kept in contact and he later sent me a message telling me it was gonna need a full refresh. I of course told him to avoid the shop I used to originally build the long-block and we had a laugh. He decided to LS swap it and now it has an LS variant of some sort and is living happily ever after.
Just wanna think yyour for the knowledge... and especially the pictures it's helping me alot .... 87 c10 is getting a new motor and swapping truck from tbi to carb your videos are helping me alot think you
on my 86 s10 the esc wires are blue, black pink and brown....do u know where each wire on your truck routes from ...then to the 4 wire connector? what year is your truck?
I wish that WAS the actual problem. It was only a symptom. The engine has since failed. I suspect excess crankcase pressure from whatever internal problem there was..I.E. rings,piston,etc. The engine started knocking and lost power about a month ago. It basically sat for 2 years while I was going through cancer treatment and I never found the real issue. Now im too worn down to fix it,LOL
the dizzy is weighted so as to ramp in the timing late to around 33deg + adv. It has an initial timing of 10ish deg. In this video it was retarded to around 8 initial and was only seeing 28-30 @ 3000rpm with the adv line unhooked.(still on break in timing)I later ramped it up to achieve a 33ish deg @ WOT. The motor is around 9.5-10:1 compression so I had to run a little retarded to be ok running pump gas even with 93. Since then ive had the distributor hold down bolt come loose and timing ramped waaay to high ergo nuking the motor,LOL
Thank you for helping with this, I have an 83 chevy suburban 5.7 and I can't locate where esc is , some say behind glove box some say on firewall so where precisely is it please
I agree 100% bud...thats why the pump was new. I was more checking to see if the lines were bad..... Obviously this wouldnt have worked with a bad pump right...but you knew that already,LoL
What "module" are you referring to? The only one I know of is the ESC and there are NO "good modules" in existence for that. All the old ones will be problematic and there is no aftermarket alternative. If you are trying to "fix" the ESC just stop now and follow the instruction on the video and you will have a running truck again....if it doesn't work immediately then ESC was NOT the problem. Honestly if it cranks(turns over) but wont start(run) then you have other issues. ESC will NOT disable ignition or fuel...it only retards timing
My idiot light comes on. , and before long the miss starts like your out of gas..if you wain acouple hours it cools down and you can go again.. will this solve that, instead of a coul? Thanks 😊
Not enough info to go on? What year truck and what engine? if its efi or tbi this doesn't apply. I dont remember seeing any dash lights on so probably not. It never misses...instead just retards timing down to 8-12deg. If you have (esc) just delete it anyway since it WILL eventually leave you stranded.
Hey, I have the exact same issues you're having except I have a new distributor in that doesn't even have that four wire plug on the passenger side. So the question is if I just remove the ESC entirely and run the new distributor doesn't that solve my problem?
Indeed it does. If you install a new HEI distributor you dont even need to remove the esc module. Just install the new dizzy with one power wire and tach signal if it is needed/wanted. If you are still having issues after that it is NOT the esc.
Does this ESC come on the 1996-99 gmc sierra model. I’m having the same issue no start cranks but i have no spark. Spark at the coil but it’s not entering the distributor. I noticed the truck had a knock sensor on the driver side with a wire going up the block. Please get back to me I’ve been trying to fix this clients old truck
Brother!! Please! It’s me. Christina. Your sister. Please get in touch or someone who sees this comment please let me know how to find my baby brother please!!!
I wonder if I need to do this to my cutlass supreme 🤔 I plugged it in and my car cuts off when I shift into reverse.. so I’ve left it unplugged for now.
Ive got a 87 gmc 1500 tbi I ant getting any pulse an can't get it to hit. Lock at all I got a big cap hei distributor how do I go about hooking it up an still use the tbi ?
Im not 100% sure what you are asking so ill say what I know. You can trick the computer into thinking it has a normal dizzy but thats not gonna do anything that fixing the original problem wont. The oe setup has the same "power" the hei does. Ill list the ways to do so in Worst to Best order. Worst:The idea of wiring an hei into tbi is to get timing control without having any aftermarket ecu/piggyback ...NOT and ideal setup.... you can find the wiring diagrams and rewire the hei to ecu to "trick" it OK but only for racing:You can use the tach signal to pulse the injectors but thats a very "old school" setup and usually reserved for WOT application only. Best and ideal but very expensive without "knowing a guy": You can invest in an E-Prom burner and "tune"the ecu for the hei. Otherwise your kinda stuck using the factory stuff. Furthermore ive never done any of these things and have no experience so DONT go off my opinion alone.
Quick question you ESC guru, what exactly does the orange wire do? I bypassed the black and green wire on my 86 k10 that was intermittently losing fire and had a funky idle at times and that cleared her up. But the orange wire is still connected, do I need to delete it? Not sure if it matters but I still have a factory quadrajet I rebuilt for now.
The orange wire is powering the esc module under the dash. It shouldnt matter either way but I would disconnect it just to alleviate the circuit. The fewer wires you have carrying constant power through the firewall the better off you are in my opinion.
the pump is housed inside the metal reservoir. There are several types of reservoir for different applications but generally only one "universal"saginaw pump design. The actual pump has a hole already cut and threaded for the other bolt...you just have to create the hole in the reservoir yourself.
The esc is ran on a 1984 corvette but it has no vacuum advance if I disconnect the esc plug and jump the green and the black wire there will I have full power advanced and will my tachometer still work? Thanks ahead of time for your video
