Welcome To BUILD & DRIVE where you can learn how to repair your BMW on a budget through easy to follow DIY Tutorials on RU-vid! We also go to the race track to test out of modifications and have some fun.
yes, for a while I did. 1L/1500kms but now after about 3 years, it has gone back to 1L/800kms so I am replacing the CCV for the 3rd time to see if that will fix it.
@@buildanddrive ithink i need new ccv too, my n52 has 291.000km and its also burning like 1l per every 1000km and no leaks, also have long crank issue ffs
Do you have to push the lock pin all the way way in? Mine is half inch away and I can’t turn the engine anymore by hand. So I assume it is correctly locked on the flywheel?
It should go all the way in but normally theres a bunch of grime in the way, just be careful that it IS properly locked in place. Is your engine in the car?
Yes. Thanks for your reply. Engine is in the car. I sprayed some lube so the pin moves nicely. I can also hear a plonk/clunk when moving the pin back and forth as it hits the metal plate. Sounds metallic like two metal parts hitting each other. I can definitely not turn the engine by hand anymore. The issue I’m facing now is that the camshafts are not straight up with QR code. They are slightly tilted clockwise so the timing tool does not fit correctly. Should I turn both by hand into timing tool position?
Hello friend, when you removed the intake pipe, was there 50cc of oil in the pipe? Or can some engine oil be poured out by turning the intake pipe upside down?
Salut comment tu fais pour enlever les durites qui sortent du tout petit radiateur de direction assistée ? Celles qui sont à droite en dessous des durites de refroidissement qui vont sur le radiateur
Hello, thank you for your explanation. After the piston top dead center, the two camshafts will see the QR code pointing upward. How do you judge the compression top dead center and exhaust top dead center?
@@buildanddrive not currently, my n52b30 has roughly 200,000KM on it now, got it at 120. Just trying to educate and plan my next moves in the future. What do you recommend replace or rebuild when it comes down to it.
Yes, I fixed the disa valve air leak and the vanos gaskets and it went away for about 2 years. I have another air leak somewhere now. It gives me the same issue where it stalls right away after startup.
Yes. Press down the brake pedal and put a jack handle against the seat to lock the brake pedal down. Then the fluid will stay mostly in the lines. If you let it all drain out, it will be difficult to get the air out again.
I didnt have to remove my vanos . All i had to do was get my engine to TDC and lock in the pin with the flywheel and its all timed ? Do i need to do something with the vanos locking tool now ?
what are you trying to fix? if you are taking out camshafts, lock the bottom end and remove the cams, but when you retime everything, you will need the vanos locking tool to make sure everything is aligned again
Timing Jumped , im just tryna to Retime everything i got the Engine Locked at TDC at this point and put the vanos locking tool in place that i bought from your description . Im just trying to figure out what to do now .
My N52 Engine is now at roughly 278000 km and it roughly burns 1 liter oil every 4000 km. idk how normal that is, but i heard way worse stories. to my knowledge the valve stem seals are very common issue on these engines and i also heard that the oil control rings on the pistons are somewhat bad constructed or something like that, not sure. and also a bad crankcase ventilation does lead to more oil consumption. so these are what comes to my mind..
Question, did you rotate the Valvetronic motor counter-clockwise with allen key, or did you just leave it like it is and did compression test like you do on a Normal engine without Valvetronic?
I should have locked the be valvetronic motor but I didn't know I needed to do it until much later. These values are all without touching the valvetronic motor
So I have been working on it just last night and what happened was when I opened the little black plastic cap with T50 or so on the bottom, then removed the retainer ring after struggling a little bit, the main desiccant dryer was not willing to be removed, it appears the edge of the housing has little diameter than the dryer at the end, it is also a plastic with few threads to apply high pull pressure to get it out, should I just force it/damage to get it out or what should i do, i gave up on it and planning to order the whole condenser. Any help is appreciated thank you. PS my car is mini cooper r56 2010
I'm a little lost. I torqued down and did the 180° on the cam gear bolts, and when i go to spin the block, the cam gear plate on the exhuast side stays in place and the rest of the gear moves? What have i done wrong, or what is going on?
That is normal after a rebuild. No matter how clean the block is, the normal breakin' period will give you those hairs, rings against cylinder walls breaking off the hone peaks as they seat properly rings to cyl walls, dust and hairs in the air as you reassemble, no matter how clean the assembly area is, it floats in the air, and sticks to the oily and assembly lubed surfaces, and that filter media is very fine. Catches everything in the oil. As long as it is on the outer inflow side, and not the inner filtered side. I just cut open my breakin' filter, saved from oil change #1 from Valvoline 30 wt mineral oil w/zero detergents or additives and a 1 pt. Bottle of Lucas Racing ZDDP TB-Zinc-Plus additive and changed the oil after just 24 race only miles, and just 3 test and tune and 3 race events, and it looked a bit better than yours, and I cut my saved filter open tonight. I am now about to do oil change #2 at 135 total race only miles after 7 more events, and will cut that filter open after switching to synthetic Valvoline 5W-20 High mileage oil and compare the trash reduction or increases. I expected to see some fine glitter from filter #1 (and was not disappointed, zero larger chunks present, as all were very fine particles, and I will expect much less in filter #2 as higher miles, but the initial rebuilding machining processes the block and head went through (cast iron block, Alum. Cyl. Head, boring, honing, new forged pistons, new rings, full balancing, and a bunch of blueprinting, new bearings, old balanced rods, etc. Some oil pump blueprinting down in the galley opening to match the pump), lots of block cleaning ( like a years worth of multiple cleanings, as it was at the machine shop over a year and 3 weeks awaiting the new forged bullets), and no matter how clean the assembly process is, you expect fine metal particles to adhere to inner surfaces when a block sits open and bare in a busy machine shop that long, as cast iron attracts iron particles, each block has a certain amount of magnetic properties to it. Ozone in the air alone will help it attract. Science is real! Now, as long as this next filter cut open, and inspection finds much less trash, I will be a very happy camper or, that oil pan comes off immediately for a rod and crank bearing inspection. However. If it is pretty clean, then the pan stays on. And I will chock the initial light fine glitter/hairs/silicone/gasket materials/dust/etc. to a perfect ring sealing & seating breakin' process well done! I will also send off an oil sample this time to get a sample analysis done, and set a baseline sample to watch the internals closely. I rarely would do that immediately after a fresh rebuild, as that first couple of changes (breakin plus 1 change), allows time to get all the assemble trash out. And analysis of pure mineral oil and zinc additive will not net a decent sample. I want it sampled now that true detergent synthetic motor oil is being used. Otherwise I am not looking at apples to apples.
Another thing is, after the short block was returned Rings/pistons, rods crank, and bearings were installed, and before I reassembled the balance from oil pump up. I also torched the bare assembled block to clean off exterior surface oils, then masked w/paper & tape (more fiberous hairs transferred to inner assembly lubed surfaces for sure), and painted the short block before final assembly. I could see a little of that trash on the filter element material too. All were minute particles, but were present, and the final assembly with all new gaskets and seals, those have tiny gray and blue fibers that I could also see using a magnifying glass, just part of the cutting and die processes new gasket materials Bring over or introduce with them. Also, with this next oil change, time to inspect and replace the 3 filters (1) pre- (2) post, and (3) the stock fuel filters, now that at least 30 gals of Sunoco 110 Standard leaded race gas has gone through the system. (And I will cut those open and inspect each also plus the fuel cell foam for determining if that is ok or not. As some fuels eat up the foam.
Thanks for the indepth comment. What engine are you running? I don't know if my engine (magnesium alloy) would benefit from zinc. I built my engine in my garage (see my videos). Tried to keep it as clean as possible and happy with the result as you can see from debris in the oil filter. I thought it was bad initially but after talking to others (like yourself) it seems normal. I didn't replace bearings though so I'm happy no crazy glittery material. I also sent an oil sample too, you can see it in my next video
