With those stickers, how did you get them to work? With L3 unfilmed ones, mine does not function. The brightness of the L3 tubes remains unchanged even after I followed the directions and cut a little portion of the sticker.
Im about to get some dual tubes and the RPNVGs are at the top of my list. Do u have any regrets with them and if u had to do it over would u still get the same ones?
@@armon8399 no regrets, it's a great system. I've owned over 30 night vision devices, at least a dozen of them binos, and the RPNVG is still one of my all time favorites.
you could probably show $1500 gen2+ here and the performance would be also similar. It is just too bright to see the difference. Get 10km away from a city to let that SNR and EBI work
Any update and what did you do to turn the unit off? (I have the international version (pfalcon640) and it says in the manual loss of power without shutting off could cause damage to the unit.) Ever get the file system error problem?
@@rileyfrench3837 is there anyway you can post a video it on ya helmet and your nods on it and you putting pressure on it up and down I’m in the market right now I have a g24 and I don’t like it as it has play there and when I tighten the screws up to take the play out it is to tight for it to move up into the stoe position at all thanks
I love green phos it's what I grew up seeing I remember eating my cereal and watching the news as a kid thinking how cool the night vision footage was here soon I'm getting a 24ua pvs14
Hey man I have seen your posts on snipershide about your custom cable for the rh25. I’m currently waiting to be approved by an admin so I can get in touch with the guy making them but figured I’d see if you had found any aftermarket options or could help me get in contact with him to order. Thank you
This isnt about just white phos vs green. Even comparing $4-7k "entry level" white phos units vs $12k device with premium L3 harris tubes, the law of diminishing returns still applies.
another chubbinator 🤡 Running suppresor without kns and then blaming PSA. I am so glad PSA is only growing with each year. Go buy trash import, which will perform 10 time worse
My gen 3 white phosphorous PVS-14's I just got in a few weeks ago are a $3,800 unit and much better than the one featured here so you don't have to spend 12K. (And I know its hard to show the quality uploading to youtube but just letting people know its not that bad anymore).
Hopefully they are just phosphor, not phosphorus. Much better than what? Also, the prices quoted here are for binos not monoculars (the title of the video gave that away). One of which is a 24UA Filmless DTNVS, which do indeed fetch in the neighborhood of $12k. Monoculars vary greatly in price, but typically cap out at $4,500
Thank you! I’ve been having the same issue with my 102. The forums never really gave a proper solution I’m glad I found this video. Just ordered a spring.
The reality is that PSA continues to make the firing pins shorter than the correct spec. They do this in favor or not being too long and popping primers (which seem to be their original issue when Garand Thumb was doing a lot of his PSA AK reviews). They are close enough to spec that adding the more powerful hammer spring fixed the issue on mine, I just can’t guarantee it as a fix for others. Its cheap enough that it’s worth trying though
Its not a Breach killer, worse field of view 16x Vs 24x, worse refresh rate 50Hz Vs 60 Hz, significantly slower lens e.g. F1.3 Vs F1.04. The Breach also has far more sophisticated image processing, but you have to know how to use it.😀
@@ngaoutdoors4157 Owning something and understanding the technical underpinnings are two seperate things entirely. You have not made a statement based on knowledge. I suggest you educate yourself.
High energy main spring (hammer spring). I wouldn’t call it a fix though, it’s more of a bandaid. PSA still hasn’t made a correct/in-spec working firing pin that I’m aware of
check my video of this new night vision device and let me know what you think. this is $4000 for a brand new NOD with brand new tubes LINK: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-c6ggiUR59UY.html
I would recommend anything 3x and under. So a low magnification Acog like a TA33, 47, or 50 would be great. LPVOs look the best with clip-ons in my opinion because of variable magnification. The thermal image ends up filling that whole ocular lens for a really large and nice looking image. For example, the ocular lens on a common LPVO is about twice the size of an Acogs lens. Also, you typically get 4in of eye relief on a LPVO which is hard to beat. The only downside is weight. On a 640 resolution model, you could get away with more magnification. Up to 6x is pretty nice on my RH25. But 384 I recommend 3x and under
My ak-101 did the same thing today I believe it’s broken I haven’t taken it out yet but I’m sure that’s the issue as I’ve heard people have experienced the same in the past
tbh if you were to put in a lens in the looking side, you can make the green look less nasty on the eyes too ALso wp when it's 2k for a pvs14 generally on average, g3 wp mind you, fresh build that a good soul sells you on facebook or something
I would call IrayUSA and ask them. This was essentially the result of installing firmware on a unit with firmware already installed. The problem is Iray USA doesn’t communicate well with the public. For example, they haven’t told anyone that there is a low latency mode installed with newer units. Short press the power button when in helmet mode to access it. It will get rid of the slow rolling shutter/jello image. But it unfortunately defaults to 0Y,0X screen adjustments, so kiss collimation goodbye (if you want to match the screen with a bridged pvs14)
Does the international version use a better firmware? I noticed they put crap firmware in rebranded US products, but give the updated firmware to the EU/Canada.
Some Omni 8 green tubes perform great, spend the rest of the money on a high quality laser and a couple thousand rounds and train, you’ll be better off. Unless you have allot of money then obviously buy the top spec.
Whats a solid place to start if i want to the best bang for my buck with monocular but end up using a NVB-58 Bridge. What brand and model? Im starting to understand that SNR will always be a priority. Will be used for low-light shooting (eventually), mainly as SHTF scenario type tool.
Even with some lower spec Photonis Tubes I cant tell the difference from that compared to my issued PVS14 that was a Gen3 tube. The only real place I see the difference is absolutely low low, almost non existent light and I can still sorta see but barely but thats almost always in an indoor setting. Outdoors I see perfectly fine because of ambient light from stars - even on no moon nights. I think I paid like 800 for the tube, GP, no blems, put it in a Nocturn Industries Tanto and havent complained since.
You aren't paying 8k more for WP, you're paying 8k more because of the low light performance of the newer tube compared to that 15 year-old one. Kinda odd that you chose to compare night vision devices in a setting with plenty of light.
Relax. I’m not getting rid of my Filmless units any time soon. But any experienced NV user can appreciate the price to performance ratio of plentiful older/cheaper green phos tubes. Perfectly acceptable for those looking to spend less. Also, this is just opinionated commentary, not some scientific low light comparison video between specific tube types. You can find videos of a more serious nature elsewhere
Man i REALLLY want a 102 but the issue with PSA 5.56 Aks put a hold on it. Always loved the look and that I wouldn't have to resort to another caliber like I did before. How has it held up since the vid?
I did that hammer spring fix (even though it should never be needed), and then sold it. It had a bunch of unusual wear from low round count so I suspect it would not hold up over time. I disclosed the issues to the buyer. I can’t have unreliable firearms even if it is just a fun gun. I lose interest
@@ArmondHickey Since you brought it up, a reminder for people who didn’t bother reading the video title: The units being discussed are binocular NVDs (two tubes), which is essentially double the price of a monocular + the cost of a more expensive housing. So the prices quoted in the video might scare some people, when in fact there are some good monocular devices out there which cost far less. Those are the real budget options.
@@rileyfrench3837 hopefully if the unit is as good as advertised I can panobridge another at some point,but with the mount and extra gt 14 I would still be looking at about $4300 to 4600
