I rebuilt my Big Block Chevy 6-71 Blower Motor last summer. With a video camera in hand I decided to make a How To Rebuild A Big Block Chevy For Beginners mini series. 22 Parts later.......... 1953 Chevy 150/Blown BBC/ 4 Spd/ Ford 9" 4:56 gears / 31X18.5X15 tire
I'm a machinist and I build lots of motors High Performance Motors that is but also make some of my own bushings that is oil light bronze when your machine it it cries
Johnny K. I wonder if you follow these comments anymore but just wanted to let you know that a decade later your videos are still helping people. I have built several motors but it’s been probably 20 years since my last. And i am about to assemble a BBC stroker 496 and wanted a refresher. So you are my man! Excellent series, Brother. Hope you are doing well!
I built a 1965 Chevelle with an L-88 and Muncie. I couldn’t get the transmission to shift right, had a terrible vibration in high gear, and the clutch slipped, it was all because of the scattershield alignment.
,,,,,I have read in books I own , and have seen many YT videos about finding TDC and verifying camshaft events,,,,,I have just spent about two hours copying into one of my notebooks ; the fine way you have laid out the procedures for checking a camshaft to the cam card that they come with........It was complete with steps to be read and understood......Thanks a bunch for your work.......
THANKS FOR YOUR IMMENSELY DETAILED VIDEOS(SAW YOUR VERSION #8 ON RODS ALSO)! THE INFO IS GREAT! I CAN DEFINATELY APPRECIATE THE PROCEDURAL APPLICATION. I BUILD MY MOTORS THE SAME WAY. YOUR NOTES ON BEARING SIZES, AND TOLERANCES IS THE ONLY WAY, THAT A REAL RACE ENGINE BUILDER CAN DO IT, WITH ANY PRECISION CAN DO IT! I HAVE NOT SEEN ANY OF THE OTHER VIDEOS, THAT ARE ON "YOU TUBE;" OR "INET," THAT EVEN SHOWS THE ENTIRE PROCESS! YOUR VIDEOS ARE GREAT! THANKS AGAIN. BURKES RACING, ENT.- TEXAS; '67 CAMARO, 734 C.I.D- GRUDGE.
THANKS FOR YOUR DETAILED VIDEOS. YOUR DECISION TO SHARE YOUR ACTUAL TOLERANCES, AND NOTES AS YOU MIC'D THE ROD IS CRITICAL. THAT'S THE WAY I BUILD MY MOTORS(WRITE IT DOWN...& SUBTRACT THE CRANK JOURNAL FROM THE ROD; OR MAIN BEARING BORE.). SAW YOUR VERSION #7 ALSO. I HAVE NOT SEEN OTHER BUILDERS SHOW AS MUCH DETAIL IN THEIR VIDEOS. YOUR'S ARE GREAT, AND BY FAR...THE BEST OUT THERE! BURKES RACING, ENT.- TEXAS('67 CAMARO; BBC 734 C.I.D.- GRUDGE)
Great video, I just purchased a 71 vette with a 454 in it and its been sitting for over 20 years inside a garage, my first step is to get a pressure reading once iIget it started, this helps. Thank you, Tom Reese Orange county Calif
Really appreciate the detail you give on each video. You're videos have as much detail as a good shop manual. Your explanations plus the video make a great instructional tool. Do have a question on this video. Given the weight of those cylinder heads, would it make sense to use a cherry-picker to help in the process of mounting the heads on the engine? I a.m planning to change out my stock heads for some Dart iron eagle heads that weigh each over fifty pounds. I am not excited about lifting the heads over my fenders and onto the engine. Would like to have as much control as possible when locating the heads on the dowels and gaskets and at the same time saving my back. Any thoughts? Any tips? Thanks Ace
Hi John, Thanks for all the great videos! I'm working on an early 50s Chevy also - 51 Chevy, 454 with Doug Nash 5 speed. Looks like you've not done a video for a while, hope you're doing well. Dan
I make sure to remove all the slag on the block inside and out. I ripped my hand open picking up a set of heads when I was a kid because of sharp slag and was never the same.
Good job on the compression test. You did it the correct way, some don't warm the engine up, some don't remove all plugs, and some don't open the throttle. You did and this is the proper way to get the correct figures.
Working on my Chevy big block I replaced my Harmonic balancer with a Summit Racing® Bracket Racer SFI, and when installing it, when it seemed to be at the end, then the tool backed it self out. Everything I have looked at, this does not happen. They Show it getting to the point were you can not turn it any further and you know your done. Any ideas, thank you for any help.
Great video. No BS straight to the point. I have a GM 153 tooth pre 1986 flywheel/flexplate (two piece rear main seal) adapter plate on a 1.9 TDI diesel. This is a Short block. Since the swap I had trouble with the clutch not releasing. The original swap I extended the slave rod which solved the release issue but throwout did last 15000 miles. I thinking its the Flywheel(30 lbs out of corvette). I just purchased new LUK clutch assembly with new slave and same issue. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
What about indicator sag? Believe it or not all those joints and the rod itself will sag from its own weight and the weigjt of the indicator, easily .010-.015.
Great vid especially about indicator positioning. I hav a question. I hav not yet brought my dial indicator but do i hav to get one with an extra long plunger or r they interchangable. Plungers that is?
Thanks for the great video, for a long time I've been baffled on how to perform the measurement.. You did a Great Job and I absolutely understand now... However I do have one simple question that I need some help with.. If I need to change a 1/2 shell either over or under which shell do I replace, the upper or lower and why that one, also if I have 2 or more that need adjustment do I replace 1 upper for main or rod depending on which is out of spec on one and the other the lower to keep it balanced or does that not matter.. Hope that makes sense..
great video! I appreciated your demonstration of the procedure that was backed up by the measurement tolerances. Also your one-inch mark tip on the point with a local maximum reading was super helpfull!