You’re fixing a problem which does not exist :) I wish my wahs would have ball bearing on the treadle. There’s like very few things as annoying as resistance when you move it. Cocked wah-sound is pretty outdated at this point and it gives much more precise control over that wah effect when there’s as little resistance as possible. Also I’ve had so many wahs where the casing is bent because someone has been tightening the screws.. not that it matters but anywho. Anyone having the issue of too much resistance and if it’s not the treadle check the alignment of the rack in pinion gear. Move the cable holder bit back or move the pot away from the rack to give just enough clearance. Just make sure it does not skip a teeth. Use lower resistance pot like teese, fulltone or castledine. Dunlop hp2 has always some resistance to it so does the chase tru-talk.
The funny thing is I want to get this type of effect and I don’t know how. And I’ve built a lot of pedals till now. I want to have a short sustain (or more like decay) with a sound like the speaker is positioned upward and holding few rice beans.
I was able to re-insert that pin without taking the board out, or messing with the 2 screws/bolts that hold down that steel bar that the pin goes under. What you have to do is insert something through the other side that can pry that bar down enough to get the pin started under it, in my case a Phillips screwdriver (a Phillips has a tapered tip). I put the wah in a vice. That helps a lot because you need both hands. You start the pin through on side, with the Phillips holding the bar down as you push the pin in from the other side, thereby shoving the Phillips out. The Phillips "leads the way" for the pin and keeps that bar down enough for the pin to get under it. From there, you can drive the pin home.
@@noisejunk I will also add that it was a pain to do, and I’ll never drive that pin out again lol. My wah is an original Chicago Thomas Organ in really nice condition.
why cant you plug a wah with a fuzz face?say that to Hendrix Lol. It worked quite well for 1 off the best off all time. Everything matters and afects your tone and also everything can add noise even the electric instalation can add noise so i dont get the point of this video.Beside the pedal order is something everyone should try for instance the fuzz face after and before the wah. So i dont get the porpuse of this video cause each rig of us will have a dif.tone and some will have noises while others wont.
I defer to others who know more than I, but I believe all wahs have a basic buffer, regardless of vintage. If you look up wah schematics the output stage shows Q2 connected to V+ with a resistor to ground, which is a buffer (I could be wrong). The Fuzz Face, however, does not have this output stage. Hence wahs do not play nice before a standard fuzz face.
Actually- MXR fixed this issue- check out the MXR M296 Classic BC108 Fuzz- it has a buffer built into the pedal- turn it on and you can put it anywhere in your chain, you can plug it into a wah, or a wah into it- and it works fine. Also thickens up the tone a bit- imo it's the best sounding fuzz face since the original- and it's by far the least finicky. And- you can nab one for about 90 bucks used- not expensive or hard to find at all. I spent a little time in Nashville- I live pretty close by- and it was probably the most common fuzz face I saw on professional boards. That was a few years ago- they've probably moved on to something newer by now but- it was the shiz-nit at one point.
NOISE JUNK, listen to a lot of hendrix studio albums, demos because his "clean up tone" isn't the same as SRV glassy clean up tone by rolling back the strat volume pot. Hendrix clean up tone is called the Bell tone. Try to make a video on how to get that hendrix clean up bell tone
Great examples and explanations. Great fuzz tones as well! Even the "clean" tone before you hit the pedals sounded great... speaking of which, what amp are you using here?
I used an Iridium (I filled this at midnight lol) on the Vox setting w Celestion Greenback IR. I set the iridium up to sound as close to my actual Vox AC15 w Greenback 12" as possible. (When I track w the actual amp I use a large diaphragm condenser mic with just a little SM57 blended in.)
@@noisejunk Very cool, thank you for the detailed response! Never would have guessed it wasn't an actual amp or that you recorded it late at night. Looks like I'm going to have to start looking into an Iridium 'cause that's the sound I want to hear when I play fuzz. Thank you again for taking the time to share. Rock on!
I think you cracked it. Ive been experimenting trying to get this sound from one of my diy drone synths. I've built one using sawtooth jscillators as they have more harmonics than a square, triangle or sine. Of course they dont ring out like a string so Im using a delay pedal. At present I dont have a Green Ringer octave fuzz (Tentacle) so Im substituting a Berry Super Fuzz. My Rat is on another gigging board, so Im using a Metal Zone, as its got the best eq of all my other dirt pedals. Ive been using a single lm386 mini power amp pedal I built, as opposed to the double that is the AG, its freaking horrible, success. Im running into a Mackie mixer, Imve got a Truetone California pre amp on order as its the bassier of the range. I'm looking forward to trying it split and run into a 30w power amp into a 1×12, on one side and the clean channel on my 30w 10" Ampeg on the other. I think this will just be collosal.
Great job! I tried to do a gentle drop fill with a similar situation on a vintage classical, but was bummed to see that thin CA glue direct on a ding a turns very dark if the ding is down to bare wood (spruce in this case). Any suggestions how to lighten up this ding, and how to avoid that darkening next time?
That's a good question. I don't know the answer, but I wonder if the CA glue reacted to something. Did you clean the area with naphtha first, or with any other cleaner which may have left a residue?
If only it was that easy. I just bought a used 535Q. I've never owned or used a wah pedal but I didn't think it was supposed to fall forward like that. Figured I shouldn't mess with the pin so went in underneath. Well, the circuit board isn't small like that. It literally runs the length of the pedal. Had to take off the input and output sleeve but there are 2 small knobs that don't come apart so I couldn't lift out the board. I was able to bend it up just enough to get a tiny wrench underneath and tightened the spring all the way. Didn't help. There was white grease under the tension spring that didn't seem like it should be there but maybe it is. Anyways the white plastic piece that adjusts the pot gear that he pointed out can move against or away from the straight gear putting pressure against it and that kept it from falling. I originally put it all the way forward and it was too tight where I couldn't even move the pedal so I tweaked it to where I got enough resistance that it doesn't fall now. that was much easier since access to the two spring screws was terrible at best but they are tightgood access to the screws but they are tight
Hope this helps anyone with a 535Q as I couldn't find anything on that specific model and was thrown off by the full size circuit board. IfI took the pin on top out I would have probably never gotten it back in plus it really wasn't as loose as this one so although I tightened it all the way, I'm not sure I needed to.
I have a 535Q too, good to know it's so different and difficult! If mine needs work I'll try to film it for the rest of us. I'm just figuring this stuff out as I go.
You forgot fog machines. They are a necessary element in the ambient doom equation. Remember, guitars tuned down to Drop-A, some fuzz pedal, old monks cloaks, and fog machines. Oh, and a wall of amps. All at max volume.
