Bike builds, Product reviews & cycling content with a side of humor!
My channel will show you the adventures /misadventure of me Jourdain Coleman, product reviews and general tips and tricks.
Positive is something this channel certainly is, I'm here to promote the sport of cycling and fitness on the whole. I want to show you the mental and physical benefits of sitting in the saddle and moving your body.
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I have got a 2019 giant tcr, I can't complain about the quality or price, what I don't like about the bike is the number of proprietary parts like saddle seat post, fork, etc
Love the idea of the derailer hanger being used as an aluminum mating surface for the drop out but I have had an SL6 where that hanger broke and destroyed my dropout at the same time.
Hello Mr Coleman, I have one question. I'm considering purchasing this frame, and I wanted to ask if you would still recommend it to someone? Have there been any updates or changes to its quality and performance that I should be aware of? Additionally, I’m interested to know if you have encountered any specific issues with the frame and how you managed to resolve them. Your insights would be really helpful in my decision on whether I should buy this frame or not. Thank you!
Good video, one thought, though: on all shifters I know turning the barrel adjuster anti-clockwise tightens the cable, thus pulling the derailleur towards the wheel.
Great video! I hope it's okay if I hijack this video for a problem of mine: I'm currently building up my elves falath evo and facing following problem. I'm using the FC-R7100 (2x12) shimano crankset, with the ltwoo erx groupset. Even in the lowest setting (biggest sprocket, small chainring) inside the app (setting: 1) I can't prevent the chain from rubbing at the inner plate of the front derailleur. My first guess was, that I need to use some spacers for either the bottom bracket or the crank axle. But with some research I've gathered, that road bike dont require the use of spacers. I'm confused with how to solve this problem. I know you havent used a ltwoo electronic groupset before, but you build your own elves falath evo. Did you need to add some spacers at the bottom bracket are? If I recall correctly, you just pressed the bb without any of these. I don't know how to solve this problem. I hope you or somebody else can help me out!
I'm not 100% sure what could be happening here. Hopefully someone with some more knowledge on these products can assist. Could it be the combination of crankset with groupset? Hopefully the internet will provide a solution for you.
Thanks for the interesting content Jourdain! I was wondering about a thing the carbon specialist says in this video, and has said in some of your other videos, about the fork flexing inside the head-tube. It seems strange to me, because the fork is clamped by the stem and thus can't move downwards there, and obviously can't move upwards at the crown race. If the fork is flexing then its not taking the direct path from the stem to the crown race anymore, which would mean the path the steerer tube takes inside the head tube gets longer. So is he saying that the carbon steerer tube is actually stretching as it flexes? This seems really hard to imagine.
I cannot tell you how much I hate proprietary fitments on bikes (or anything else for that matter). I wouldn't buy a bike that had anything other than a round seat post and 1"1/8 steerer. I bought a Vitus Venon Evo frame from the Wiggle/CRC eBay fire-sale and loved that it can be built up with standard everything, apart from the seat clamp wedge (this does annoy me). I really don't know what's wrong with standard seat clamps???
please do not use this trueing stand to examine the wheels runout, as itself is extremely wonky. you can skew it by just pushing on the rim. to get appropiate readings, spin the wheel and then HANDS OFF
Is that the lifeline bike stand you originally bought and reviewed 2 years ago? If so, how’s it holding up? Looking to purchase this for £90 or the park tools 10.3 for £160. I’ve read a few reviews that say this stand becomes unstable when one wheel is removed when bike is mounted on stand…?? You had any issues?
I have this same stand and yes if you remove the rear wheel but not the front wheel (when the bike is mounted drive side out) it is very unstable. You only make that mistake once though. I learned the hard way to be careful.
It's been fine for my DIY needs. It also folds away nicely. I had one before that had three legs, the 3rd leg just gets in the way 😂. I would recommend for sure. It's not skipped a beat.
A couple of things. 1) you should have pulled a string through the old frame as you removed the cables. Much easier next time. 2) on the crank arm, you forgot (or didn’t show) placing the safety clip
Great summary. Nice technique he applied to remove hands from the bars to check position. I've always coached working on hands-free riding for control and as an indicator that bike fit might need to be adjusted (if you can't do it comfortably.)
So, to confirm, you smashed a frame yourself with hammer, then put a video out of you ‘saving the frame’ from the landfill by paying someone to repair it? Methinks RU-vid is taking over your life.
The TCR frame was a write of and would not have been used again (before I hit it with a hammer). The hammer was an experiment because the frame was heading to landfill. The giant frame will be used again at some point 👍🏼
20:56. route the front brake cable in front of the rear brake cable. just undo the front caliper and then re-route the cable by passing the caliper under the rear brake cable.
1. The seat went down. Due to the seat tube angle this brings the seat forward. 5mm 2. The seat was moved a touch forward on the rails. 5mm 3. Bars were changed for short reach which was a 10mm
@@JourdainColeman Thanks for the explanation of why the repair wasn't painted to match. Hopefully, Rob did something to protect it or the carbon fiber will fail.
Great video compared to the dumbassery of buying a brand new TCR and cutting it up for no good reason! Would be nice if more people recycled these old carbon bikes. I'm sure there are a lot out there.
TBH a mechanic from my neighborhood told me when screwing on the 7 speed cassette it's perfectly fine to screw it on by hand because it will tighten it's self while driving.
Nice work, a frame swap can be quite the task, such a pain you needed to get a list of parts to finish! Especially the saddle clamp and oversized steerer/stem!
Still using a giant defy advanced from 2015 with quick release dropouts. I have upgraded the groupset from tiagra 4600 to tiagra 4700, carbon wheelset and carbon dropbar and the front disc caliper to growtac equal. The only stock components left are 1. the frameset and 2. the rear trp spyre disc caliper. It still looks modern and rides pretty well
As someone who built an OEM van rysel 900AF frame with almost no parts attached aside from a rear derailleur hanger, I feel your pain of finding these parts of weried standard.
I think maybe the chain was the correct length first time, you maybe need to adjust the third screw in the derailleur clockwise, it sould pull the derailleur back and stop the chain rub possibly.
