If you have a business proposal, if you want to collaborate on something, or just feel there is something (very important) you absolutely need to tell me write me an email or send me a message on instagram.
@@WhyDontYouBuildit OK. Just thought you knew where to purchase, I thinks it 2 inch band saw blades...awesome carving on the handle ends...give you 5 stars on this project...thanks guy...
Absolutely lovely restoration while keeping the aura of its age. Some restorations I’ve seen elevate these classic tools to the look of ‘just off the shelf new’. I like this one of yours, it’s both classic and classy. Well done!
Great Job! Please be careful pushing a chisel towards a body part. In 40 years of woodworking, a wood chisel is the only tool that ever sent me to the emergency room.
That is literally one of my next projects! I want to make my Framesaw out of Hardwood. P.S. I think your Saw dont perform as well because you have to tension the Blade was more. James wright has made a good Video About this type of saws. Many Greetings Oh, and you usually push the saw to cut instead of pulling them
About the "Carving Chisels, one more thing I need to buy" comment. My philosophy is: "It's impossible to have too many tools, too much work/storage space or too much money to afford it all".
I was going to buy a benchcrafted tail wise for the roubo I’m building, but now I’m gonna save my hard earned cash and do something similar to what you did. This was awesome to watch!
hello! I need to buy blades to make a saw like this but I can't find them in Brazil. Where do you make or buy your blades? What is the store address so I can order the size I want? please I need help with this
I used a piece of bandsaw. It kinda works, but I think a thicker and more rigid one would be better. I unfortunately don't have any idea where you can find one in Brazil.
Consulte os detalhes 217 / 5.000 Resultados de tradução Resultado da tradução The Little Floresta channel said that I usually find it in German stores, but in the United States you can also find it, but I have no idea how to buy it there. If I can't, I'll try to make it with commercial door springs.@@WhyDontYouBuildit
Awesome work! The joinery on this bench is top quality! Do you mind if I ask, by putting the second draw bore dowel at the far end of the sliding dovetail (so well done, btw. Really nice fit) you're forcing all of the expanding and contracting of the thick top to close and open the wagon vice slot; whilst the sliding jaw will be contracting and expanding the other way. Did you find it gets very tight in wet weather and super loose when it's dry? I've not built one this way so I don't know if it'll be a problem.
Because my bench is in my garage I don't have that much of a change in humidity and, at least until now, I've had no problems of it being too loose or too sticky. To be honest I haven't had much time to use my bench at all recently, but the few times I did it worked fine.
Hello, the job was very well done! I'm really considering improving this type of frame saw because it has potential. I believe that the sliding saw blade holders should be additionally tightened with screws. Then the saw blade would be very rigidly mounted in the frame. His jumping up and down seems to confirm my point. Of course, its length influences this phenomenon. The analysis of the functioning of typical frame saws leads me to believe that the description and the validity of the mentioned improvement are correct. To sum up, the easiest way would be to install the second saw blade tension on the opposite side. Moreover, the frame for such a long saw seems to be too stiff. Congratulations and best regards 😀.
You did a very good job of restoring the hand drill👍 my wife sat down with me and watch this video she remarked that my drill could do with a good overhaul 😮😔
Put a flat stick on the flat side of the blade. At either end. (A winding stick). Perpendicular to the blade. Sight down the blade to see if the sticks are on the same plane. You may have to bend the saw blade to saw straight and true.
My old workbench is not really a workbench, it's just a table I welded up from some scrap tubing. It's all wobbly and it isn't at all functional for woodworking.
@@smithjaan247 As of now I only have a tail vise. My plan was to add a front vise too, but in the last year, due to work and family issues, I wasn't able to do any woodworking at all. Hope to get to it soon enough...
These saws seem to cut better on the push stroke, rocking your weight forward when pushing the saw; this helps you get a longer stroke and use more of the blade too. You are using mostly your arms and it will get very tiring that way, and it's not efficient; you have a saw about 1m long and youre not using half the blade. The blade may be why you used it on the pull stroke mostly, a bandsaw blade usually has a positive rake on the tooth (the tooth leans forward) this makes it very aggressive and hard to use, itll want to "stick" in the wood becasue the tooth is so aggressive. When you sharpen the saw, file away some of the rake at the front of the tooth, aim to file 0⁰ of rake into the teeth (the front of the teeth should be straight up and down, 90⁰ to the toothline, not with the tooth leaning forward) this will make the saw easier to use and it wont want to "grab" as much 😁 If your saw "sticks" or "stops" at the same point on the toothline everytime, it means your blade needs to be "jointed"; there is a tooth that is higher than the teeth in front of it and when that taller tooth hits the wood the saw stops. To fix this you'll need to use a flat file and run it along the tips of the teeth to make them all straight and the same height. File until you see a flat spot on the tip of every tooth, it's normal if some teeth have a bigger flat spot; these are the teeth that were too tall. Then you'll need to sharpen it with a large saw file, taking half of the flat spot on each tooth away before you move to the next gullet........ the file will cut the back of one tooth and the front of another tooth at the same time, so it's important that you only take half the flat spot away before you move to the next gullet; this will keep the teeth the same height. Moving left to right, from back to front of the blade, keep the left side of your file vertical so you get your 0⁰ of rake on the tooth and file the tooth who's face (front cutting edge that faces forward) is set away from you (this might not be the first tooth) skip one tooth so the next tooth face is still set away from you. When you have got to the toe of the blade flip it around and work from right to left, always from the back of the blade towards the front, this time the right side of the file will be vertical to create your 0⁰ rake and file every tooth you skipped last time (every second tooth) the set should still be leaning away from you...... the file cuts better on the front of the tooth that leans away from you, filing a tooth that leans toward you will "chatter" and the front of the tooth that does the cutting wont be as good. It's not hard to file a saw, but it is daunting if you've never done it before. If this is the case; go online or to somewhere that sells old tools, buy the cheapest old saw you can find and learn to file that before you move on to a saw that you intend to use. It's easier than it seems, it seems nearly "scary" if you've never done it before..... but trust me; it is easier than you think to sharpen saws 😁
Wow, this is a very informative comment. I'm planning to build another saw with a much stiffer blade and I will surely be sharpening it following your suggestions. It might take a while till I find the time though...
Something tells me that this type of saw can cut equally on push or pull, but it depends entirely on how you're using it. I.e. pushing against the tops of the fibers or with the fibers. Pushing in most bench configurations will result in a better push stroke. I'm planning on building one to be more of a pull stroke because in general your pull muscles are stronger and more built for endurance. I also train on the trowing machine, so I want to translate that movement into efficient sawing.
You are 100% correct about the first one being daunting. I bought a couple frame saws recently for $10 each, one with a green wood blade, one with a dry wood blade; I decided that if they happened to get ruined in the learning process so be it- at least I am learning. I realized about 3/4 of the way through the cutters on the green wood blade that the rakers are almost 3mm taller than the damn cutters in spots.. sigh. It looks like I need to manufacture some additional jaws on my metal vise to hold the blade and take down all the rakers, then reprofile those.. then the cutters afterwards I guess. I never realized how bad the blade was when I bought it, but I really bought it for the parts and as a template
@@liquidrockaquatics3900 Sounds like ya have some work on your hands..... I dony envy you, I'd hate that job 😐 thankfully, the worst saw I've had to work on only had the "big tooth little tooth" syndrome, from the saw being sharpened all from one side, and that was a 24inch panel saw...... Not a long frame job. You'll get it done; just remember..... Ya can't ruin the saw until it runs out of steel 😂 so have at 'er....... Might take a few filings, but you'll get it done 😁
I used a piece of bandsaw blade. That's the reason why it was so cheap. But that's also the reason why the blade is flimsy and it doesn't cut as straight as it should.
