Thanks Bruce! I’m trying my best to learn what the car wants. It’s been a bit frustrating, knowing that the car makes more than enough power to go 10s. I’m determined to tap into its true potential (hopefully sooner rather than later).

You are correct in that the MT82-D4’s gearing isn’t optimal and it’s very difficult to run good numbers with it. However, I wasn’t spraying the car on those runs. The backfires are simply the result of unburned fuel being ignited when it makes contact with the hot exhaust pipes during the shifts. I’m curious though, why do you think the car won’t last long?

@@adrianmansaw9163 i thought you were using nos...nos engines usually do not make it very long.

@@cnewell1971I can respect what your saying here, but IMO, nitrous is no more dangerous than a supercharger or turbo. Cut corners and bad things can happen. In my case, I put a lot of thought into my system and I don’t abuse it at all. There’s really too much info to type out about how I went about my install and tuneup, but if you’d like to read and see more about it, you can have a look here. www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/coming-soon-nitrous-install-on-my-fbo-2019-bullitt.151347/

@@adrianmansaw9163 thats true!! 150 kit is not too hard on the engine.. me and my friends used to have hot rods and such and nitrous was never our friend..I have seen some good engines turned into boat anchors because of NOS.. i test drove a 21 gt, 21 challenger scat pack then a 21 2ss 1le camaro..i ended up with the camaro.. it just pulls so hard out of the gate.. the gt was good but had to rev it to the moon to get it to go..the challenger was ok but felt very heavy.. good luck with car! It sounds good!

@@cnewell1971 Thanks, I really appreciate it!

Built it and let it rip. What kind of build plans do you have in mind for it?

No mounting rings were required. I diid use the foam enclosures behind the speakers though.

No, I never experienced that problem. The noise went away in short order and hasn’t returned since.

Unfortunately, yes. This was and continues to be a work in profess to get the Hitmaster system dialed in. One of the biggest issues was the wrong choice of tire. I was running Mickey Thompson ET Street R radials and just could not get them to hook for anything. I recently switched to Hoosier QTPs and hope to be able to hit the track later in the week for further testing.

Thank you! I’m trying my best to get it right.

I hope it lasts me a good while. I’ve done every internal upgrade that I know of to make it stronger, (Cryo treated all hard parts, WPC treated all hard parts, carbon fiber synchros, billet aluminum 1/2 & 3/4 shift forks, new input, output and countershaft bearings which were also Cryo treated and repacked with special grease). I would say it should be on par with a Calimer build. The only difference is, I still have the 23 spline input shaft and no billet gears.I tried to get Calimer to sell me the gears, but he said they only sell them with their builds.

@carterztv7381 I only have the SDE shock sensors installed (not the ride height sensors), as one of them didn’t fit properly (wouldn’t lock in place due to a casting issue). Now back to your question, if I don’t turn off traction control or unplug the nanny plug, I will get the speed restricted to 80 mph message on the dash. With that being said, you could probably try doing that instead of purchasing the SDE sensors to see if that works and save $200.

@@adrianmansaw9163 gotcha so once you unplugged that abs cable no issues? So you had that issue because you don’t have the ride height sensors in? If I get the full kit that’s $400+ I may not have issues? I think it’s two sensors per corner of the car. 8 pieces total.

Yes, the full kit is $400. Two sensors per corner. My car isn’t lowered, so SDE told me that there was no need to install the ride height portion of the sensors unless I just wanted to. Purchasing the whole kit may prevent any issues, but it’s going to be trial and error.

That’s correct, unplugging the nanny plug under the hood next to the air box will prevent the warning light from coming on. The other workaround is to just turn off TC in the car and eliminate the warning.

No corrective action was taken, the squeak just went away on its own. I have a question for you about your Clutch Tamer. How many turns out from the fully closed or clockwise position did you have your valve set at? What sixty foot tones were you pulling with it? Thanks

@adrianmansaw9163 From fully lock I'd do two and half turns. My RXT 1200HD would grab about an inch away from floor. Best 60 ft was 1.39 on 305/45/17 ET Street R radials aired at 16psi pre burnout with Viking crusaders shocks leaving off WOT box 5,000 rpm 2 step. Car made 819 whp and weighed 4120 with me in it. Best ET was 9.9 @ 138mph in 1700ish DA.

Ford Performance halfshafts.

Thanks! It’s still a work in progress. I have a very unique clutch setup in the car and it’s taking some time to get it dialed in.

For sure man. It was horrible DA that night. It was 2700 and 88 degrees. I only ended up running an 11.7@121 look forward to seeing your car out there again bud!

@@danieldaugherty7402 what car were you running? What’s your HP/TQ and mods? I definitely look forward to going back to continue working on things dialed in on the car. If we happen to be there on the same night again, please stop over and introduce yourself.

I was in the black hellcat charger. She’s stock right now, targeting some stock numbers before I put the drag radials on and such. No doubt bud, I’ll come over next time I see you there. I’ll be bringing my 2013 GT500 next time now that I got my new clutch broken in.

Thanks Russ. I’m still shaking the car down and trying to get the clutch dialed in. It’s tedious work, but I’ll get it sorted out and then I’ll see what it can really do. The car is currently down 9 mph on the big end. It should be trapping around 117.

Thanks!

Congrats on your Bullitt! I have my nitrous set up on electronics. I run a Nitrous Outlet ProMax progressive controller which holds up to five nitrous tunes. It’s all touch screen with a remote bottle opener, heater and purge kit. I currently have it set to spray at 4000 rpm and turn off at 7600 rpm. There are also other safety perimeters programmed into the ProMax such as, it has to detect that the throttle is at 95%, fuel pressure has to be at 58% min., nitrous bottle pressure has to be between 950 psi (max) and 800 psi (min). The nitrous will not activate if the system doesn’t detect all of this criteria. I’ll make a photo slide video to show how the system is installed in the car shortly. Stay tuned!

@@adrianmansaw9163 ok thanks! So you have your base tune on the stock computer for the FBO E85 setup then the controller piggybacks off that to adjust for spray? Edit: When running the car, such as a 40 roll, are you banging it at 7600 right at cut off on the controller or shifting higher?

​@@TheJMan1K, I have an nGauge that holds tunes for 93, Flex, E85R and Nitrous. I normally run on my flex tune with E85 in the tank for normal driving. If I want to use nitrous, I flash to the nitrous tune via the nGauge and I’m all set to spray once I get my bottle temp to 950 psi. I usually like to see 1000 psi and then purge down to 950 psi to clear the nitrous line of air before the hit.The ProMax controller adjusts for spray. On a 40 roll per say, the nitrous just shuts off at 7600, but I shift at about 7200. My factory Rev limiter was increased to 7900 by Lund Racing when they wrote my tunes. Theoretically, I could shift at 7600, but by then, I would probably be bumping the factory Rev limiter by the time the shift was complete. I do have an N2MB WOT box with a nitrous add on harness that will allow no lift shifting while spraying.

@@adrianmansaw9163 wow that has been a big help. Thanks! Regarding the shifting on the flex tune are you running out to rev limit or 7200 no matter the tune?

@Justin Gulbronson, you’re welcome. I shift at 7600 when running on the 93, Flex and E85R tunes. I only shift early at 7200 when using nitrous.

The headers are Ultimate Headers long tube headers (with cats). They’re paired with a Steeda X-pipe and the factory active exhaust.

I burned through the factory clutch trying to get it dialed in, as tech support was very vague. The best ET was a 12.30 @ 116. I’ve since pulled the tranny and replaced the clutch with a Ram Pro Street Twin Disc. I got to thinking that since the tranny was already out of the car, I might as well improve upon it. Having said that, I completely disassembled it and now I’m in the process of rebuilding it with better internals and some other special treatments. I don’t expect to have it back up and running until around March.

I suspect that my throwout bearing could be bad because whenever I release the clutch I hear a chirp. The chirping noise didn’t occur until after the clutch started slipping. One other thing I noticed upon disassembling my transmission in preparation for a rebuild, were oil burn marks inside the inner bearing race on the input shaft bearing. I’m not sure whether the failing throwout bearing could have attributed to this, but both bearings do ride on the input shaft.

My thoughts on the ported 91MM tb are that it performs well, especially when coupled with the Soler Throttle,Controller. What I ended up doing was sending Soler a brand new factory Bullitt tb to port. After I received it back from Soler, I began testing and the car would go into limp home mode and throw codes. It turns out that the throttle blade was sticking open and shut. I pulled the tb off the car and sent it back to Soler, where they made some adjustments and sent it back. It has worked perfectly ever since. I’m glad I have this mod.

Thank you!

Do it! There aren’t many Coyotes running nitrous nowadays, most are running superchargers or turbos. I don’t know if you’re a member on M6G, but here is a link to a detailed write up with pics that I did on the install. www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/coming-soon-nitrous-install-on-my-fbo-2019-bullitt.151347/

@@adrianmansaw9163 I'll make an account or whatever now. Thankyou.

@@WumboLifts you’re welcome. Hopefully there will be some information in the thread that will be helpful to you.

Yes, the button that you see me press and release in my other Hitmaster Clutch Hit Control System videos is the trigger button for the launch timer and 1st stage control valve. I don’t press and release that button until after I’ve completed my burnout and staged, at which time I simultaneously put the car on the 2 step and wait for the lights on tree to illuminate. When the second amber is out, I dump the clutch and release the trigger button at the same time.

469 rwhp/434 rwtq

We’re you having issues with the active exhaust after headers? I recently did headers h pipe and e85 tuned, i had the harness repaired and now it keeps blowing fuses about 6k rpm making exhaust mode selection not available.

@@rmracer92, I did have problems with the AE after the headers, but once I deleted the AE mufflers and relocated the actuators, I haven’t had any issues.

@@adrianmansaw9163 did you do a active axle back?

@@rmracer92, I did not install a new AE after I removed the factory one. I went to a Steeda axle back instead, but I did retain the AE actuators and install them on an AWE bracket and plugged them back up to keep the light off on the dash. Click here and read on from post #9. www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-failure.134702/#post-3472794

Thank you! Yes, I’m very happy with my Bullitt. It has been a work in progress to get it dialed in to my liking, but I’m getting closer to achieving that with every modification that I perform to the car.

Thank you! The Lund tuning was great. Brandon was my tuner there.I’d go straight for the 150 shot on E85 if if I were you for maximum benefit. I think you’d see 10 teens or 10.20s with it.

Ultimate Headers long tube headers, Steeda X-pipe, factory Active Exhaust, PMAS (no tune required ) CAI Kit, and Lund Racing tuned.

Did you do oil pump gears or sprocket?

No oil pump gears and cam sprocket have been installed.

@@adrianmansaw9163 thanks man love the build

NP. Thank you!

I haven’t been able to get what I would consider to be a good 1/4 mile pass in yet. Up until about a month and a half ago, the car had been a work in progress (undergoing constant modification for about 20 months). My best ET to date on motor was a 12.30 @ 116 mph. I never had the opportunity to use nitrous at the track because I was in the process of working through some clutch issues after installing a major clutch modification called a Hitmaster Clutch Hit Control System. This system is intended to allow full control over the hydraulic clutch, which is typically unheard of with hydraulic clutches. Needless to say, I went to thank twice and was unable to get the clutch properly dialed in and as a result, burned through the clutch after just six passes. Soon, I will be pulling the transmission and replacing the clutch with a much more stout unit and rebuilding the transmission with internal upgrades and a few other tricks. Having said all of that, I am hoping for mid 10’s once I get the upgraded tranny and clutch installed and the Hitmaster properly adjusted.

They’re Ultimate Headers catted LTHs. The mid pipes are catted they are the slip fit style with a Torca band clamp. I did cut out out the factory resonator and install a Steeda x-pipe (which is cut snd clamp) and used upgraded clamps.

In the Dyno video, I have Ultimate Headers LTHs, Steeda x-pipe and factory Active Exhaust. I’ve since gotten rid of the AE and installed a Steeda straight through axle back exhaust. The car is now louder, but I love it. The most recent videos of me at the drag strip are with the current exhaust setup in place.

@@adrianmansaw9163 I like that combination, sounds amazing. Recently purchased a Bullitt but I’m not sure which route I want to go for headers. For now I just had the steeda h-pipe on it, rest is stock still.

@@arianfernandez4386, do it, you won’t be disappointed.

@@adrianmansaw9163 did you had to do a tune after installing the headers? If so, who did it? Killer sound!

@@arianfernandez4386, Thanks! Yes, I tuned after installing the headers. Brandon at Lund Racing was the tuner.

Yes, I had that the issue as well. It ended up being a damaged AE wiring harness on the passenger side. I de pinned and repaired my harness and then relocated the actuators to a bracket, in order to keep them plugged up and avoid a malfunction indicator light on the dash. I run a straight through axle back now. If you’re going to stick with the AE, you’ll need to fix or replace the harness and notch out the pinch weld, so that there will be no further chafing of the harness.

@@adrianmansaw9163 yeah I just looked and on passenger side the harness and plug is hitting pinch weld. The shop that installed my headers let the exhaust scoot back too much. You can see on the Hangrr back there that my exhaust is about 1.5” rearward. Hoping I can loosen the clamps on x pipe and push the exhaust back forward some

@@xGR1MxREAPERx, you will need to cut off a piece of your exhaust, in order to move it forward, but even then, you might still have to notch the pinch weld to be safe.

@@adrianmansaw9163 I can see on my x pipe tht it’s barely on.. so when headers were installed the exhaust got shifted back pretty far. Should have room to slide it forward. If not I’ll cut out the pinch weld back there.

@GR1MREAPER, I haven’t made any videos as of late, but hope to capture some footage from the drag strip in the very near future.

@@adrianmansaw9163 sounds good. Beautiful car

@@xGR1MxREAPERx Thank you! It sounds different (even better) now with the Steeda straight through axle back exhaust.

Thank you! No 1/4 mile times yet. Still performing upgrades to the car right now.

No, but it seems to have worked itself out, as fhe squeaking is now gone I attribute it to installing an additional 163” of clutch line during the installation of my Hitmaster 2 Stage Clutch Hit Control System.

LOL! You’re right, the car sounds horrible and the video definitely deserves two thumbs down. However, the video was actually recorded for testing/troubleshooting purposes on a product for the S550 Mustang that hasn’t made it to the market yet. I am assisting the manufacturer in gathering data that will hopefully help them to produce a great performance part.

I have high flow cats on the car

Hello! The brand of headers is Ultimate Headers and yes, they are catted.

Yes

Hello! Yes, I retained the factory Active Exhaust with my LTHs and x-pipe.

Thank you!

@@adrianmansaw9163 I quite literally went out and bought a Bullitt today - K3226! Most amazing mustang I've ever owned.

@@96SVTcobra44 that’s awesome! What color? Did you get one with Recaros and Magneride? What plans do you have for it?

@@adrianmansaw9163Mine is Highland green w/ Magneride and the Tech Package. This one doesn't have Recaros but personally I enjoy the heated/cooled seats & seat memory. I really enjoy this vehicle the way that it is right now, if anything I would change up the exhaust a bit but not sure how loud I want it to be. Even in the last few days it has been really nice on the highway to be able to switch to "quiet" mode and just cruise, then bump the switch into Track mode every time a Camaro needs a reminder of why they should have gone Ford. Do you have plans for yours?

@@96SVTcobra44, I plan to continue modding it with a Clutch Tamer Hitmaster Hydraulic Clutch Hit Control System, a drag pack (Forgestar D5 beadlock 17X10 rear and 18X5 front runners and M/T ET Street Radials), maybe a 6 point roll bar too, but I’m still on the fence about this mod for now.

Thank you! I am running Ultimate Headers catted long tubes, PMAS CAI kit (no tune required version) and Brandon at Lund Racing tuned the car.

@@adrianmansaw9163 Awesome work man! Cant wait to see some videos at the strip I'm trying to decide what I want to do with mine all I have is a roush cat back but seeing builds like yours makes me want more haha

@@RJC405 I know exactly what you’re saying. It’s very tempting to keep climbing up the horsepower ladder for me too, but I’m going to try my best to exercise some restraint and stick with this power level. The car is stills work in progress. I have a clutch mod planned next which I hope to get done in the very near future. I am also anxious to see what it’s capable of in the 1/4.