John, thanks so much. This is helpful. I have a different model of GE refrigerator, but I think the failed light is the same as yours--a failed LED circuit board. Like you, we've had the refrigerator for only about 2 years. Also, John, I was confused about the resistances that you were reading. You said for the failed board the resistance was about 9 ohms. For the new board it was 10 kohms, for the good one from your refrigerator it was 10.3 ohms. It seems that maybe you meant kiloohms for all three measurements. Is that true? One other thing that may be helpful to you is that when making resistance measurements in a dc circuit, polarity of the meter probes can matter. The way that an ohmmeter works is that it applies a small dc voltage to the circuit or component whose resistance you want to measure, and then it measures the current through the meter. The designer of the meter, then builds the meter so that it displays the division of the voltage applied by the meter by the current through the meter, which of course, is resistance in ohms. Manufacturers of ohmmeters don't necessarily make the red lead of the meter the positive side of the small dc supply. I believe that Fluke does make the red lead positive, but I've used many meters where the red lead is negative on the ohms scale. Most of the time, it does not matter, but it does matter, say, when trying to determine if a diode is good, and it probably is different with the LED circuit board. You can know which is positive of your Fluke meter by setting the Fluke to ohms and measuring the dc voltage between the Fluke leads with another meter. When measuring the resistance of the GE circuit board when removed from the refrigerator, it would be best to connect the positive lead of your ohmmeter to the positive side of the circuit board connector.
@@dannoland Thank you, I know there are a lot better people out there like yourself who know how to use a multimeter. I do appreciate your constructive criticism. Thank you for reaching out and come back and visit my channel.
I bought 2 WIX filters years ago and after installing the first one I had air/fuel problems. Now seeing how easy they are put together I see why. Once that center piece loosens then the outer shell seal will leak. What genius came up with that idea? Well I'll stick with a metal can filter as it's a rolled seal to the outer shell.
Some tech probably rounded the nuts off with SAE 9/16 socket substituting for 15mm with a 3/8 drive impact. Rule of thumb for you guys learning… Unless life or death use Metric for metric. SAE or Society of Automotive Engineers use inches fractions. Although you can crossover and make it work it will always round them off with power tools. If you have to use them on hand tools find the closest fit possible although I don’t recommend it. When you purchase a socket set just get SAE/ MM in the set that way you are covered. Although it’s quicker I recommend using hand tools until you get up to at least 1/2 bolt. Leave the impacts for the bigger jobs. Last but not least check your torque value with calibrated torque wrench.
@@jdoe836 I have bad news. My new LED just burnt out today. I guess I will try a pricier LED. But I can not bring myself to pay $80 buck. Let me know how long yours work.
There a two small plastic covers for the fuses on the battery. Right next to the locking mechanism. No need to take the battery apart. Good video though. Thanks.
I came to this video wondering the hell was up with this year model drain plug. It starts draining oil shortly after the bolt is loosened. Which I've never experienced before. Generally the oil doesn't start draining until towards the end of the threads on the drain bolt.
@@fixitjohn is it normal for the fridge not to make some noise here and there ? It went quiet for a couple of minutes and making noise in the back of the fridge. I left and came back about 5 minutes later and started making that humming noise which I know is good. I keep checking the temperature and it’s fine Would there be an issue later on ? Or do you think it’s fine ?
@@rudyishere1 I think it is fine. The ice maker makes a noise. On mine, I hear that quick closing valve thumping all the time. I hope that I answered your question!
@@corvettebob96 You are right the arrow is backward. I could be wrong but I really don't think that it makes a difference on that blade. Thanks for sharing.
John, thank you for creating and sharing this exceptional step-by-step diagnostic education video. It's truly one of the best I've come across on this topic.
I have two Orbit hard top heads that demonstrate the same if not the exact same issue as described in the video. I resolved the problem by replacing the seal with new ones from new Orbit plastic heads. The seals are not the same, but they fit decently enough that the sprinkler stem does not bind up during travel. I am convinced that Orbit has redesigned the sprinklers since this video was created. They appear different. I'll let you know how long this fix will last.
Hello John - As a retired HVAC Contractor and former Floridian I have to give you an A+ on your "How to install a Whole House Generac generator. You covered points that licensed electricians do not follow as per electrical regulations. I recently inspected a job where the electrician installed the generator conductors within the Meter Can (feeding back "source generator power") to the electrical service panel which is against code...good catch by you. It makes sense not to have two (2) power sources enclosed in the Utility Meter can. My planned installation (11/2024) requires the generator to be 18 ft. away (inside an enclosed fenced area) from the transfer box. The conductors wrapped in the orange vinyl from Ziller electric is a brilliant idea opposed to running separate conductors and (6) wire for the control leads. Questions: 1) Did you confirm in the instructional booklet that it was acceptable to incorporate the control leads with the conductors in a pre-fabed conductor cabling as you installed from the "transfer switch to the generator". You simulated a power failure at the end of your video resulting in the generator engaging and running. It was a successful start and I assume there is no magnetic interference between the (240 v line conductors) and the control wires supplied in the single vinyl wrap. I have seen other videos where the electrician installed a separate 1/2" pvc conduit to run the control wiring. Your method saves additional time, materials, and expense to incorporate all of the wires in a single vinyl sleeve. 2) We have frequent loss of power in Texas suburbs outside of Houston (power outage for 30 minutes or longer) which is not related to storms. It would be very helpful to know if there are "optional delay settings" available within the programming of the Generac generator in order to create a delayed "auto-start" once a power loss is detected "to avoid nuisance sound with regard to neighbors," and the maximum time provided in the programming for a delayed generator start. FYI...perhaps an idea for a "future video" providing those self installers like myself an outline for programming, maintenance of the (compressor / battery), noise level, and natural gas consumption of the generator. Also, will this effect sufficient N.G. flow to a gas burning furnace during the winter months with both furnace and generator operational? All good information to know when using a generator in the winter months. Your video is the best I have seen on RU-vid providing explicit details for the entire installation. Very well done and I highly recommend your video to anyone planning to undertake the installation of a "Whole House Generator.' I think it would be helpful for professional installers and electricians to view it as well in order to provide an optimal installation. This is an excellent instructional video. Thanks John for sharing your expertise concerning the installation of the Generac generator.
@@peterd9331 Wow, those are all nice things you said thank you very much! As for the all-in-one cable, I have not had any interference problems from the higher-voltage cable. I am not aware of any optional delay settings for the Generac generator. I have not looked into any of that. As far as the gas pressure goes, your local gas company can tell you that. It would depend on your gas meter and pipe size. I have a gas-fired tankless hot water tank and our generator runs just fine. I am sure a gas furnace would burn more gas then a tankless shot water tank. Good luck and thanks for all the kind words. Thanks for watching. Let me know if I can be of anymore help!
Hi My Freezer is cold 0 degrees, but the fridge is not cooling 55 degrees. At this point with my Frigidaire GLHS67EHQ side-by-side refrigerator, I’ve replaced the damper assembly, that did not fix it. I cleaned the condenser coil. Then I replaced the evaporator fan motor and blade (which was running), that did not fix it. Although the compressor was working, I decided to install a new start device since the unit is 12 years old and I was already cleaning the condenser coil. The damper is open, and air is flowing, but there doesn’t seem to be much velocity. The freezer is cold, but the fridge side remains warm. There’s no corrosion on any lines I can see. There’s no ice buildup on the evaporator Just a small amount of frost. Finally, I replaced the control panel, but that didn’t resolve the cooling issue on the fridge side either. I’ve checked and rechecked everything, including re-crimping the evaporator thermostat wires to ensure they were properly connected, but the problem persists. I’ve also removed the ice maker and top back panel to check for obstructions, and everything looks good. The vent by the crisper is clear as well. At this point about the only thing that I did not replace is the thermistors. I tested the fridge thermistor, it is opening and closing the damper as it should. I’ve been working on this for days and am not sure what else I can check. Any further guidance would be greatly appreciated! The only thing I can think of now, is the fan moving enough air? Thanks for any ideas in advance. Dean
@@fixitjohn YES, I am pretty sure the thermistor for fresh food is bad now. It was ok when the problem began. so literally everything on the fridge is new except the coils and the defrost timer
I'm not entirely sure about that, but typically manufacturers need to supply parts for what they make for 10 years. Why do you ask are you thinking about one? Thank you for reaching out.
My neighbor got a 22kw generac but upon looking at the main breaker panel the installer took out the 200 amp breaker in the transfer switch and replaced it with a 150 amp breaker. Guess it was because the existing main panel was only 150 amp. That begs the question that they oversized the generator in the first place.
I would say that yes it was a bit oversized. I don't know why he did not just leave the 200 amp ATS. That is ok as long as the conductors are sized appropriately to the sub-panel.
This is the best money you will ever spend. So nice that when the lights go out in a few seconds they come back on and no need to worry about where you are going to find gas after a hurricane
@@fixitjohn Hi, no not really. I believe you gave the torque setting for the pan bolts as 20 ft/lbs. Do you know the torque setting for the drain bolt?
@fixitjohn sorry to ask but what wire/problem did you fix in this video my suburban is making thr exact same noise that your car made when you turn the ac on, I'm assuming it's the same problem with mine. I just didn't catch the part that your replaced!
@@Etherealiest Sure the part number for the fix on my truck is 1575221. If you punch that into Amazon it will show you. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Builders put nice looking tile roofs on homes, but the underlayment and what is underneath is poor quality...it rips, tears, disintegrates...and then leaks.
@@DavidOldenburg1 Hi David, Our HOA requires us to have a tile roof. That roof has since been replaced. But you are right the underlayment is poor quality. If I had my choice the roof would be either metal or asphalt shingles. That roof was only 17 years old. Thanks for watching!
Yeah I’m a big believer in longer intervals between rotation on trucks. As long as you have a good alignment. I do 15 to 20k rotations. Front wheel drive front engine need every 6000. The weight of the motor and drive wheels will wear significantly faster. How I’ve always done it. I always tell people to use their tire change jack as a jack stand if they don’t have actual jack stands.
This is an incredibly helpful resource and video! 😊 Thank you for creating instructional content like this while offering and sharing your wisdom and expertise. ❤❤❤❤
I have a 2024 model gotta free first oil change at the dealer on mine and my oil pressure gauge is reading low.... I looked under the truck no oil leaks oil filter is good, oil pan is good no sign of leaks anywhere... I checked the oil dipstick it's says it's full... idk 🤷♂️ whats up but its annoying me anyone got any ideas ?? I plan on bringing it back soon
there is not one video to show me how to remove the black pipe and iron rim flange which are two different pieces. I am trying to pry the black piece that goes into the drain before i can cut the iron flange. i ned a video to show me how to do this?
@@pebelleeb5422 Sorry about that. There are some guys cutting PVC flange from the drain pipe. That might give you an idea of how to proceed. Good luck!
Wild dude. I'm just getting ready to install my WIX 3 years after you made this video. I open the box and it's loose just like yours. Crazy. Off to buy a better filter.
The part number is 1575221 I had to rewatch the video myself to get the part number. Thanks for sharing. I will put it in the description in the future.
I would rather spend the time using my drill than using the hack saw that came with the replacement wheels. I didn't want to injure myself or damage the suitcase using a circular saw. Thank you for this video.
After a power outage : Generator came on as expected but when power was restored the system would not transfer to utility. A wire came off the utility side solenoid and before I noticed the wire I had pushed the red trip button on the main 200 amp breaker to test but after I reconnected the utility solenoid wire the breaker won't reset. Is there something I'm missing on setting/closing the breaker. Do I need to kill the generator before closing the 200 amp breaker before it will set?
I am glad that you ask! This was a two part video here is a link on how to drain and flush your power steering pump. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0KZWKXhDRoc.html Thanks for watching.
Really nice job! The only comment I have is that when I'm doing a job with very heavy cable I will pre-run the cable past any tight turns before I glue that particular piece of conduit. When I saw you glue that 90 before putting the cable through I knew you were going to have trouble.
@@talvalon999 yes, I know it does make it a little harder. What I understand is that you are not allowed to piece conduit together over the cable. I don’t know the code for that though. I have done it your way when no one was watching on RU-vid Haha. Thanks for watching.
@@fixitjohn your are correct, it is code not to do that, and your right if you did it during this project someone would of said something! lol It's code because it was indicated to me a long time ago trying to conduit over a long run of wire in a trench would more than likely expose the areas to be glued to allot of dirt while snaking the wire through.... makes sense. But just to say again you did a great job with the install.
I am adding a 50amp outlet for a generator. I don't have any more spots on the neutral bus bar. Adding a neutral bus bar, do I need to jump it with 6 ga wire.to the existing neutral bus bar.
@@kendice2025 I think that should be fine. I installed a 100 amp generator with a 6 gauge stranded copper wire. Stranded wire will carry more current. Good luck.
