Videos about things I do. Which is A) mostly vise related, because I collect german vises. I have a special love for classic Brockhaus Heuer vises and Meier & Weichelt / LES vises. Otherwise I try to find interesting ones you don't see everywhere. And B) stuff to keep my dad's garden running. Irrigation sytems, planters and stuff. There's always something to do there!
Hello, thank you for your good educational post, Matt, I have this model of drills, is the battery healthy, how can I take it and test the motor of the drill?🙋♂️
Hallo Bastel! Ich bin gerade dabei einen Heuer D.R.P. Nr. 6 zu restaurieren. Weißt Du vielleicht die Anzahl an Kugeln, die in das Kugellager gehören? Danke und Gruß!
Ich glaube so 14 - 15 sind das meistens. Ist ja jetzt keine Achse mit Belastung oder so, so einer zu wenig oder zu viel tun nicht weh. Die Madenschraube muss allerdings ordenlich reingehen, also soweit, das die Lauffläche der Kugeln "geschlossen" ist, sonst bleibt ne Kugel eventuell in der Kuhle stecken. Die Kugeln sind 9/32" soweit ich mich erinnere, gibts auf ebay, 7 mm gehen bestimmt auch. Die Gewinde sind alle Whitworth, aber da es ein Nr.6 ist, gehen auch UNC Schrauben, nur beim Nr. 5 hat man Pech da 1/2" Schraube.
@@bastel_ Danke für die Antwort! Ich hab 18 Kugeln à 7 mm in meiner Schachtel. Ich hab den Schraubstock vor 10 Jahren auseinander genommen und seit dem lag er in Einzelteilen bei mir im Keller. Ich hatte die Kugellager-Kugeln nicht gezählt und mir ist damals der Behälter mit den Kugeln heruntergefallen. Daher wußte ich nicht, ob ich sämtliche Kugeln wiedergefunden hatte. Danke auch für den Tip mit der Madenschraube, die ist bei mir zum Glück noch gut erhallten. Die M16 Sicherungsschraube muß ich allerdings erneuern. Ist doch M16 oder auch Whitworth?
Nein, das ist/sollte sein eine Whitworth Schraube + Mutter. Aber da es ein Nr. 6 ist geht auch eine UNC Schraube. Ich habe mal für einen ohne Schraube zwei gekauft, in meinem Slide Repai Practical Hands on ist die übrig gebliebene um Minute 10 herum zu sehen. Ich kann ja nochmal nachschauen was was es war. 9/16 oder 5/8..
@@bastel_ Habe nachgemessen, es ist 5/8. Dann werde ich mal eine 5/8 UNC Schraube bestellen inkl. Mutter und hoffen, dass es passt. Die Whitworth Schrauben sind ja um einiges teurer.
Hab damals im Zollshop die Sechskant Grade 5 geholt, die haben nun auch Grade 8, wobei 5 einer 8.8 entspricht und bestimmt reicht. Schaft haben sie auch. Länge kann man ja messen, Breite + Mutter und evtl. Unterlegscheibe.
Molto Abbeizer Gel from Hornbach (Power Abbeizer Gel it says on the container). Mine has a red cap, the current ones seem to have gray caps, I haven't compared ingredients but I think they haven't changed (it has a really strong chemical smell and contains many solvents, so it should be used outside or in a well ventilated room). The Hornbach inhouse brand didn't work at all, I returned it. Brush on thick and wrap with foil, let it sit for one to a few hours. It will disolve thin nitril gloves, that's why I wore these plastic painters gloves on top. Some people swear on dipping things in Simple Green for a while (paint stripper / deruster bath in one), which I guess is mostly sodium carbonate (Waschsoda), but I haven't tried that yet, probably because I own this stripper gel and large amounts of Evaporust (which also strips paint sometimes :) )
Excellent instructional presentation - extra points for not using "music" an not taking 15 minutes to sell/describe/unbox this tool! I wanted to know if I could replace the battery, and if so, how to go about doing so - A+ 100% 🌟🌟🌟🌟/⭐⭐⭐⭐
Music is for time lapses or theatrical shots (if at all). I totally hate background music, especially if with voice overs. Horrible. Please also note the comment I pinned, keep the cardboard shell of the old battery for the replacement battery, it's the only thing I did "wrong".
Hello friend Bastel, I have a FRONT n°4 like this, I'm from Argentina and mine doesn't fit until the end, it's perfect for any job!but they do not touch between the two jaws by 1mm... and it still has the original grooves on the jaws. Is there a way to adjust it?
Like the screw protection tube bumps into the movable jaw, right? I have seen that with the very small No. 2 a lot. If the tube is too long, check if the tube is loose (only one spot weld holds it in) and if not, just shorten the tube a bit.
I dunno right now if it is a SPDT On-Off-On or a DPDP On-Off-On but I think the latter since there are two sping levers inside if I remember correctly. There are tons of them on ebay
HS4? That should be like 125 mm? That's a good size, it's enough for most home shops. 100 mm is bit small I think, and 150mm / 6" is like what one could ever need at home, though there a bigger ones :).
@@bastel_ i no i buy mine in löbau in a second hand shop i collected vlots of tool my favourite is a siebnitz bohrmaschine but its missing a special screw so i can use attachments like a blechnabber or a angle attachment sorry about the denglish
@@jasperedwards2713 Ich kann auch Deutsch :) auf Kleinanzeigen verkauft einer die passenden Muttern für Smalcalda falls du das meintest (suchen nach mutter smalcalda). Vielleicht passen die da auch? Ich hab ne 480er da war die Mutter zum Glück beim Winkelschleifadapter dabei.
The LiIon battery has 3.7 Volts, so you can use 3 NimH / NiCd rechargables to get 3.6 Volts. I personally tried it with a AA battery holder for 4 batteries that I put into the handle after removing the battery and most circuit stuff. Because if this I used 4.8 Volts and it kinda still worked, but this is of course 25% too much voltage for the motor. But it still had less torque than with the LiIon cell. (You might want to use two holders in parallel for more current, if for example the NimH cells can't deliver enough. Or use C/baby batteries). If you want to use a power supply it should have 3.6 - 4 Volts.
That came out really nice without removing all of the character of the vise. I liked how you did the video editing. I put a down payment on that We Es Ko vise we talked about in your previous videos comment section. I will hopefully have it within a month or two and I will make a video about it since there’s not many videos on those vises. I look forward to the videos you make next!
There have been two of these 170 mm vises on the classifieds recently, but of course in the other end of germany. Not cheap either (but not as expensive as I have seen before). And I think the 170 mm must be quite heavy so I doubt shipping is an option. Guess I'll stick with what I have :)
Are these forged steel or wrought iron? I’m looking at one with 170mm jaws. How was the quality? They are really interesting and seem really heavy duty
These cast steel IMHO. I don't think they are forged. Not cast iron. I have some stamped WE-ES-KO, that's the company that also manufactured the super vises (these big floor mounted vises). The one featured in the video are basically the "small" bench mount version of these deep throat blacksmith vises. Very desirable. I also have a 130mm one stamped GWH, this was a company specialized on casting steel. Otherwise they are identical. Basically these two companies produced them for whoever sold them in the end. The 170 should have a removable jaw insert for custom inserts, like the floor mounted ones. I would grab it! Best thing you can get instead of a floor model. if you don't want and your are in the US, I know people there that want one real bad ;).
@@bastel_ I will probably buy it then. It’s from someone is Austria, so shipping will probably cost almost as much as the vise itself, but it’s worth it to me since I’ll be using it, and I doubt there’s many if any at all in the USA. It looks like only the moving jaw has inserts that are replaceable. The guy I’m buying it from says he thinks it’s high quality cast iron, but if you said the company focused on casting steel, I bet it would be something like mild steel or at least ductile iron. Do you have any sources that have the history of We Es Ko? I couldn’t find anything online. I’d like to read about them so I have something to tell people when they ask about the weird giant vise in my shop.
@@KimballPrecision If it's that guy selling all the other vises and anvils on his site, too, then I've seen the vise and it looks really nice. Unfortunately I have not much info about either company, only a letter/flyer of each of them. So I know what the company names were: WE-ES-KO stands for W S Co = W. Sauerbrey & Co, Remscheid-Vieringshausen and GWH stands for Gussstahlwerk Wittmann AG, Hagen-Haspe. WE-ES-KO are better know because most of the super vises have their stamp. The floor models are all cast steel and tempered steel (that's what the catalogs say), so I assume the bench versions are similar. Alas I have no catalog picture with the bench models. About the patent for them: While the floor model says "System Kensche" (as in made after the patent by Kensche), which allowed me to find the patent (1907), this is either derived from this patent or using a different one. I've found one other that might apply but it's very old (1894). And I've recently seen very small bench mounted ones that look even more like the floor model (with the lead screw produtuding from the back) but no maker stamp, so it's all very mysterious.
@@bastel_ Yes, it is the guy with a lot of anvils and vises on his site. Just got a 103lb soderfors from him and the transaction went perfectly, so decided to see what else he had and found that vise. When I looked it up, your video was the only thing that came up. Yeah I spent a couple hours looking and I can’t find anything, besides people talking about the floor model commonly called the “German Supevise” over here. Thank you for the help and information. If I do end up with it, I’ll do a spark test somewhere on the vise to see if it’s cast iron or cast steel and let you know what I find. You think the 170mm is worth $1000 though? If it really is steel, then I think it is as it’ll be my main blacksmithing vise and it’ll get used a lot, but if it’s just cast iron I’ll probably be worried about breaking it like I have other cheap cast iron vises and tools.
Great video, I just found at a local flea market a number 4 with D.R.P. mark and I beam construction, and your video helped me a lot to learn what I have.
Hi. I really liked your video. Could you tell me what you would expect to pay for a heuer primus DRP vice. exactly like the one you are working on in this video. A number 5 with six inch jaws. I am led to believe that they are the most common vice in germany. Are they readily available and do they come up for sale often. Do you buy and sell them. Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
They come up and now in different sizes, the 6" jaws being very common. They often pop up in the Ruhrgebiet area (where they were orignally made - I am NOT located there). Especially the DRP model is very old, so usually they are not mint, but now and then mint ones do appear. Of course the bigger ones are often sold without shipping (especially if mint), so it's not easy to get them. Shipping a 6" model within germany and many parts of the world is possible, though. People usually shy away from the packaging (which isn't really complicated if you just ship within europe, but gets worse if you go international), or the paper work and stress for international. I consider 40 € for a 6" a steal, 50-60€ is ok, above that it better be mint. For a real mint one I would pay more but I can never reach them. Prices are also slowly going up. (All prices are as listed in german classifieds, ebay prices are higher). I am not in the business of buying and selling vises like "as a business". I might get a surplus one now and then and pass it on to people I know. But this can be quite some work and then stress with USPS for example that I rather not want to experience too often.
@@bastel_ Thank you for youre reply. It was very informative and realy helpful. The only used heuer vice i could find on the inter was a more modern heuer vice on machineseeker. It said it was €50 delivery to my country which is Ireland. If you could recommend some German classifieds web sites that sell used tools i would appreciate it a lot. Thanks again for the reply it was really helpful.
@@folly6027 since you are in the EU, shipping ist not so much a problem (e.g. with GLS). www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de is the classifieds thing in germany and then you search for: schraubstock heuer (though not all are listed with heuer in their name). There are always a few 6" on the market.
@@bastel_ Thank you for the information you have given me. I will be sure to check it out. I really appreciate the information you have given me. Thank you. I look forward to more of your videos. Keep up the good work. Thanks again
Very nice series on these old vices. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and research done on them. Quick question; I recently bought a Heuer Front from what I suspect is from the 40’s or 50’s but I just can’t find any info on it wherever I look on the web. Is there any place you recommend I take a look at (www/PDF:s or the like) where the range of the different models through the years/decades are shown? It looks like it was painted green from the beginning but I am not sure. Do you know if they shifted colors through the years/decades?
Hi, sorry for the bother, but I have a problem with a Heuer bench vise and I hope you can help me solve it. I have recently purchased a Heuer bench vice, Primus model, with 15cm wide jaws (on the body there are a number 6 and a number 8). The bench vice is in excellent mechanical condition, but aesthetically it requires some work (repainting). My problem is how to disassemble the worm. I cannot see a locking ring (as in newer bench vices) or a locking pin. There is a series of dots, in the shape of a circle, where the hole with the locking grain of the steel balls should be. I think it is an intermediate model between two different technologies. Thanks for the attention.
Sorry, I only handled Heuer vises with the set screw. Either it is hidden beneath paint or so at this place or something entirely different. You can contact Brockhaus-Heuer at www.heuer.de/en/contact/ , they are nice people.
Hi, thank you very much for your reply. I have already tried to contact the house, but they have not been able to help me, even if they have been very nice to me. I sent you (to the email address you wrote in a previous comment), as I did with them, the photos of my vise. It is not a paint problem (I have already removed it) and it does not have the locking ring system of some models (like the newer ones). In an auction that is currently on ebay.de (auction number: 383968438037), and also in two comments of the owners who are on the site of the house, there are bench vices like mine. I think that, after being fitted in the factory, the hole was welded. There is some kind of mark where the hole should be. Maybe they did this with all bench vices. Later, with the passage of time, the owners have pierced them in order to disassemble them. Maybe my bench vise was never taken apart. Your every advice is appreciated. My best regards. Marcello
I'm gonna use a lithium battery too but Dremel tge side to insert a battery holder to be able to insert and remove the battery as I use it also in another led torch light and also recharge the battery with the torch charger 👍👍
Schraubstocksammler sind eher nicht aus Deutschland, die haben davon aber nichts. Ich kenn einen und der sammelt amerikanische Schraubstöcke. Stell Dir vor du bist aus Indonesien und sammelst Schraubstöcke, oder hast nen schönen Heuer gefunden, was willst du da mit nem deutschen Video. Englisch verstehen die meisten.
Hallo, danke zunächst für das tolle Video! :) Könntest du mir vielleicht sagen, wie ich ein anderes Problemchen lösen kann. Bei mir funktioniert nur der Schalter für die Hauptrichtung nicht, d. h., man muß ihn zuerst drucken, dann ein wenig nachlassen, damit es funktioniert. Der Schalter für die Gegenrichtung funktioniert einwandfrei.
Das kommt durch den Abbrand der Kontakte im Schalter durch die hohen Ströme. Man kann den Schrauber aufmachen, da ist ein einfacher Kippschalter auf der Platine. Den kann man entweder ersetzen, oder vorsichtig aufmachen (der rastet so an der Seite ein, muss man das Metal etwas biegen) und dann die Kontakte rausnehmen und reinigen (Pinzette). Da ist eine Feder drin, die darf nicht weghüpfen :). Das wird aber wahrscheinlich nicht lange halten, da die Beschichtung ja schon wegebrannt ist, müsste man neu verzinnen.
I am pinning this comment because nobody reads video descriptions anyway :) One thing I did miss in the video but kinda understood later on: Reuse the paper housing for the battery cell. It really helps and protects the battery inside the fixa. No need for glue or anything then!
Hey guys and gals. It took me some time to get this finished. I was busy with work, and also had to take some additional footage about the felt rings.. I am not showing all the other attempts on getting the round bar and the felt rings to cooperate, but lot's of swearing was involved :). When I wrote pre-compress the felt rings I meant you could insert the dynamic jaw from the back (w/o key of course), then insert the front felt ring easily, and let this sit for a day. This should compress the felt ring enough so it shouldn't stick out that much anymore. Just an idea, though.) Also when I am saying 1938 I mean 1936.
Sorry for the late reply. Part 3 coming soon. Very soon. If the heuer front has the I beam style, then it is a post war model, the you can look if it has a tube for the lead screw or not to kinda figure out the time frame. Supposedly the year is stamped in somewhere but I haven't seen that on all vises.