I appreciate the effort but I’m not understanding what you mean by splitting the difference around 2:08. It just looks like you’re randomly making a parallel line with the cue and then… moving it.. but is the two lines still parallel but half the size? What does that have to do with the shot?
Folks, make up your own minds. Here is an interesting video about why the bottle challenge is not a good training aid, but it may also depend on where you are.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OahRBhACpqE.html
Thanks for this review. Could you also test Whyte Carbon Wood Grain carbon fiber shaft please? I am curious about the sound it makes when you hit the ball with a stroke. I am using revo shaft and I really dont like the metalic sound.
I need to know if he is ok. I can’t even begin to explain how understandable this is. It feels like my subconscious screaming at me with something I already knew
this is super helpful!! the only question i have- why are we splitting the difference after the parallel? and is the parallel supposed to be lined up with our target ball?
Wouldn’t putting the 2 shafts in with one backwards release tension up against each other, due to their shape? With joint protectors of course. Thanks btw.
If you really want to get good at pool to the point where you want to compete you should have the 9 foot table.. when you play on a smaller one you’ll be shocked when you get to the competition table.. you will know how to hit the ball but how hard or soft.. how much spin etc.. it will all be off.. but just for fun.. go for it.
Dunno why people are saying this doesn't work. I have a cue over 15 years old that's only had the dents taken out with a beer bottle, followed by a coat of carnuba wax and 1000 grit sandpaper and it's still smoother than a brand new shaft.
Great tip. I see a lot of people holding it in mid-air. I learned the proper way when I was a teen, from reading Willie Mosconi's book on how to play. Indeed, just tonight I saw a friend advising his opponent to do it the wrong way. I gently and diplomatically told him how Willie taught me how to do it. 😊
Also works if you just use your index finger and middle finger.... The idea is that you really can't use all four of your fingers and stroke straight consistently.
The purpose is it will make tinny pores on the cue tip and when you chalk the tip it will hold the chalk... So if the chalk retention is very good on the tip, its will help to have more grip when your cue tip touches the contact ball...😊
First correction, you can get a White Carbon all the way up to 12.75 (I have a 12.75 and they {Predator} said 12.75 is the highest they go). I was just at the Billiards Expo in PA. I spent extensive time at both Bull Carbon and Predator's booths. I practiced with both shafts and assessed both "systems" and how they work with nearly any butt PIN. Here's what I determined. The White Carbon shaft is superior in all ways. First, the pin has a LOCKING LUG (nut) at the back of the pin. This keeps the INSERT from moving around AT ALL, then the smaller bolt inside screws into the shaft. The Bull Carbon insert just threads into the SHAFT. It can become loose, and most importantly, if it does become loose it can DAMAGE the shaft and threads because the shaft is very thin where the insert goes. The White Carbon shoots extremely well. It has no deflection... no anything. It feels like it's a magic stick that does EXACTLY what you MAKE it do. The Bull Carbon shot well, but had more feedback after striking a ball which means it's DOING things the White Carbon is NOT doing.... like vibrating, deflecting, etc. If the White Carbon was priced at 1,000 dollars, I would happily pay that price now I know what it does.... which is NOTHING (no physical feel feedback), meaning it's PERFECT. It is by far the best single piece of equipment that has greatly improved my ability to run balls and win matches at my local APA league. I've only lost two matches out of my last 9, between 8 ball and 9 ball league nights. The matches I lost were VERY close. My typical outcome of 9 matches would be in the 40-50% win rate. Now I'm at 78% so far this season and players my skill level are DODGING me now. I HIGHLY recommend the White Carbon shaft. I think they are 600 + 68 for each insert. For what it's worth.
@@VetteWay2Fast no shit. We’re talking about a center strike. And worth mentioning, even the predator Z shaft (which stands for Zero deflection) will have very small measurable deflection on a center strike with no english. The white carbon is even less than that.
@@liberty9348 "The White Carbon shoots extremely well. It has no deflection... no anything." <-- Your exact quote which is incorrect lol. No shafts will deflect on a center ball hit, deflection is only relevant on english or non-center hits. Again, no shaft is zero deflection, that is not possible with physics.
@@VetteWay2Fast I must have a definition of something wrong. I’ll figure it out and post back. The point is that I find this shaft incredible and far beyond any other shaft for any shot/game I play.
Great! Thanks for the info. I have a couple questions now that I understand the TIP and the SHAFT are adding a lot more to the stroke than the butt. Since the butt offers very little effect on the stroke, is it so little that the butt DOESN'T MATTER for, APA league play, for example? What IS the best butt, in your opinion, that adds the MOST positive effect on the stroke to MAXIMIZE the small effect that it DOES have? A friend of mine explained that the Meucci "power piston technology" is the best butt to use because it "removes deflection completely and ADDS the most accuracy to the stroke, even though the butts effect is small compared to the shaft and tip a player uses.". Would you agree with this statement? If not, what butt would you recommend? These questions are also asked with MY understanding that every player is different, has different physiological mechanics, and has different personal preferences that work for THEM. Thanks! Great video Sir.
