I have looked at doing a pass through to my cab many times but increasing engine and road noise seems like a near certainty as I don't imagine that concertina gasket stopping much. For long journeys it has a huge impact onn driver fatigue from personal experience. Ive contemplated doing a two door system so cab and box never touch and there is a solid sealed door that has a chance of keeping out the noise if I do a good job, my engine sites up higher than this so getting through is never going to be convenient which is another reason I haven't done it yet.
Hey Bruce have you put $280,000.00 worth of time & materials into it yet? Not to mention wasted time that could of been better spent ADVENTURE TRAVELING! Not digging on you Bruce, you are a master at this stuff. I could never do what you do, nor did I have the time! I am just trying to get some interests on our All Terrain Warrior that is for sale if you know of someone looking PLEASE HELP us sell our rig and send them to our channel for a full video walkthrough. P.S. Asking price is $245,900.00.
realy good video it helps a lot i have spent 5,000 so fare to get my truck fixed and still the engine system light comes on every now and then thanks again for the infermation
Poor Bruce. Thanks for showing us scene 16 of The Battle of the Injectors. I'm glad I'm not a diesel tune-up mechanic. You know, a carbide recip blade would make short work of that brace, and you have a capable welder to put it back together... Otherwise, Curtis' suggestion to holesaw it would be less aggressive. Good luck, man.
Don’t worry, Scene 17 is coming 🤣. I did think about a) cutting and re-welding or b) cutting and bolting it back in (you know, for next time). Really makes no sense the way they have built it - seems like they were intending for a removable section.
After watching all your videos', and that from other youtubers, while I spent 12 months planning and adding all costs. This made no economic sense. I was able to buy everything for a 30% premium over part cost alone fully turn key, custom built just like I wanted. Sadly two issues we all are faced with. (1) composite panel builds are WAY overpriced in north America. (2) the Fuso Fg is a bad choice, more so as used prices are way overpriced. A Isuzu NPR converted to 4x4 by ridgerock turned out so much better (with warranty and two air lockers. As well as all GM mechanicals)
You are correct - composite panels are insanely over priced. If I were to do it over today, I’d probably build a full aluminum exterior, and then spray foam the whole thing - would be indestructible. Also agree that Fuso’s prices are getting a tad high. For me though, I got in at a price that I couldn’t say no to, so good in fact that I bought two at the same time, fixed the other one and sold it. If I hadn’t done that, I would likely have ended up with an older one - but the deal I got was too good to walk away from. 😎
Another great video, thanks for sharing! I know this question comes a little late, as you have already removed 3 injectors. Did you measure the return flow rate of the injectors before? I got the suggestion to check the Return Flow rate of each Injektoren, to find out if and which injector is defect. Maybe you are lucky and only the pump is damaged.
I didn’t - but based on how things failed (ran fine one day, and not the next) I suspect that the injectors are fine. I didn’t get any injector related codes from the ECU.
@@BruceandKristaBut why do you remove the injectors, if you expect that they are fine? Would it not be enough to clean the rail an the line to the injectors and the rail?
I took a few paracetamol to help with your HEADACHE - did you find that the headache settled down? If not I could try some paracetamol in my diesel tank. Just let me know.
I wouldn’t suggest putting it in your diesel tank, you’ll likely end up with bits in your fuel pump, and injectors… then might have to re-watch all my videos again….
@@BruceandKrista ......JC that would be a nightmare! I will stick with the hot water bottle for the moment. If I come up with any more bright ideas I will let you know.
The cross brace is pretty easy to remove. I removed/replaced mine to get at a stuck glow plug. Other than breaking and retreading a couple of wheel liner bracket bolts I would say it is 1.0 to 1.5 hour job.
Actually you could use a long bearing puller also where the arms would grip the injector and the threaded portion would push against the frame support.
Yep, would need to be inside out, as the bearing puller uses a fixed center pushing inward and the arms pull away…. I would need the center to grip the injector to pull and the arms to rest on the support.
Had a similar problem with my Fuso right under the support mine's a bit older than 05 so I don't know what your injectors look like but mine had two ears for the bolts to go through I was able to thread some spectra line through the two ears up around the brace and then I simply took socket extension and started twisting the lines to tension them that mechanical advantage is pretty extreme and it popped it up.
Wouldn't the engine run (rough) if 1 injector was not working? Did you have any fuel coming out of the injector pump before you connected all the lines? Keep at it you'll get it.
Yeah, and if there is an injector issue it should throw an injector code at me, which it hasn’t. Have yet to re-assemble everything and give it a go - which may be the way to go!
I'd be tempted to take a hole saw to that bracket. Then, after you've got the fixed & motor running, weld the plug back in. I was hoping you had that issue figured out by now! Hang in there.
Good idea. That would allow using a threaded rod aligned straight over the injector and a nut and washer against the bracket as a puller, as an alternative to the pneumatic puller. The drilled hole could be as small as the threaded rod. A larger hole is needed only if the injector has to come out through the bracket (or so it appears from a few thousand miles away).
@steveogilvie5203 It's the back of the cab support. I don't know Fuso's very well, but I am very fluent in Isuzus. And that's what they are for on them. Heck, I'd be tempted to drill a hole in it, then weld a flush tube in the hole to reinforce it, and leave the hole for the "next time."
Great ideas! I was also thinking of making a puller that uses threaded rod and an upside down U that goes down each side of the injector to rest on top of the engine. My main concern is how hard can I actually pull on this thing before I rip it in half….
@BruceandKrista looks like you're going to find out! I'd come over and help, but I'm too far away. I'm about to install my new high output injectors in my cummins.
A little late question, I’ll be building out the inside of a composite camper shortly using Sitka adhesives for cabinets. Would you feel comfortable using a Sitka product for mounting exterior brackets to support awnings or a small propane tanks?
Assuming you are talking Sika, they make some very good products. If you can find the right one and prep the area properly I would think there should be no concern.
My friend, I have the same engine, but the injectors are without electricity at the crank (positive and negative). Where do you expect the problem to be? Is it in the ECM or somewhere else? Can I contact you via WhatsApp or any other program?
There are a lot of different things that could cause this, unfortunately there is no easy answer. You will need to start reading codes and then track down the issue from there.
My friend, I have the same engine, but the injectors are without electricity at the crank (positive and negative). Where do you expect the problem to be? Is it in the ECM or somewhere else? Can I contact you via WhatsApp or any other program?
When Harbor Freight came out with a set of regular plus stubby wrenches, I grabbed one. And those stubbies have come in very handy over the years. Great $20 investment.
I have changed 2 injector pumps before. When you take the pump off take note of pump position (mark it. Then when you replace the pump it is easier to set the timing. The most important part is do not turn the crank ever. You have to wonder what the engine designer was smoking when they come up with the almost impossible config. The build looks nice. will you have it going this fall?
Bruce, a word of caution when you come to pull the injectors. While travelling, I had a failed injector, so got the truck recovered to the nearest workshop that is familiar with the 4P10 (an Iveco dealership). It was the rearmost injector, which is exposed to salt and rain running down the back of the cab. As aluminium and steel don't get along, the injector keeper bolt snapped off in the head, and as I chose to replace all the injectors, they snapped the no.2 bolt as well. That meant the head had to come off to have the bolts extracted. Then there was the drama of coding the new injectors to the ECU, which only Fuso workshops can do! All up it was eight weeks off the road. I now have a deflector at the base of the cab that flicks the rainwater out towards the box wall.
@bob - these pumps are slightly different in that with the common rail they don’t need to be exactly timed to the cylinder stroke, just timed to fit back into the drive cog - which is much easier!!
Hey Bruce, not sure if you have the same injectors as my 2005 FG but here's a video of a tool I made to help pull them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pE2tVL4-_1c.html
I feel for ya! I just got my P 7100 back on my 5.9L 12 valve last week. Loads O fun because that engine is under the floor of my Class A. And I, like you work alone! Next up is put in the new injectors and plumbing, and prime it. Still trying to wrap my head around why guys like us do these things to ourselves.
@BruceandKrista I've been wanting to get new Texas license plates for my Big Guy once I get it back on the road. Thinking "WBNML" would be fitting. (Why Be Normal)
Good afternoon sir I have fuso center two code coming please can explain what I can check SPN 520429 FMI 18 SPN 520575 FMI 31 what's cause please some details give us thanks
520429 FMI 18 is Dynamic Check of the Lambda sensor reports slow. 520575 FMI 31 is Torque limitation active (limp mode) activeOBD performance limiter group 212. Limp mode is probably caused by the first code. The Lambda sensor is in the exhaust just ahead of the emissions system.
Is this why snap on sells dozens of different shapes of wrenches with all sorts of weird curves? Since I can’t afford 20+ snap on wrenches of every size, my idea was to use an induction heater to make a wrench shaft red hot, and then just bend it into the shape I need. Also - I was doing some adhesive work. I have some 3M PE foam tape, not VHB. Oh my god, the liner is so easy to remove. I need to check on the specs and see if I can just use it instead of VHB. :)
LOL - I have a few “job specific” wrenches in my toolbox too - and a number of other home brew “special service tools”. 🤪 (some are even make of plywood). Years ago I made a 2x4 frame to lift the TDI engine in my golf so I could remove one engine mount to do the timing belt. Worked perfectly!
I did this job twice on my 4P10. That is not a truck's a bus That engine has 2 AC pumps, and 1 is on the top of the CP4 bracket You have a lot of access to do this job. If i can send you a photo of how i did in my bus you will never said that's hard to do
It's not important to set the engine on TDC. CP4 pump is a pressure pump. It's not a timing pump. Actually, that last bolt you removed is the easiest bolt on cp 4. No, I'm not talking about that 10mm bolt😅 I have a question: How is the hall that recondition engine ran 200,000 + KM. that cp 4 is always distorted at 80,000 to 100,000 km. Hey, before you do that exact same thing on the truck, remove that vacuum pipe from the vacuum pump and cap of that inlet and outlet pipe of the pump. Before you install that pump, I suggest inspecting that pump, too
Correct that the specific timing is not critical like on a gear/timed IP - but there are reasons to do it in the correct TDC position…. As written in the repair manual.
At times when put disease,i move some short distance then ,low power of acceleration come antill now ,so i changed fuel filter but it was very dirty ,i was same low power,so i want also to change a pump
I just love it when there's that one last bolt buried beneath layers of other stuff that needs to be removed just to get a spanner in there, and then you find you can't even remove it by hand once it's loose 🙄 One of the first preventative maintenance items I did on ours was replace the priming pump, and to get that undone without removing the lift pump I needed to modify a spanner to fit! I recently replaced the A/C drive belt and tensioner pulley on wifey's X5. The tensioner can only be adjusted from under the car, after you remove the aero tray, after you move some other hoses out of the way, then only 1/16th of a turn at a time by removing and re-indexing indexing a torx bit on the extension for each 1/16th rotation! An hour for a one-minute job - yay 👍 Why do they do this to us? 🤷🏼♀ Hopefully this is the fix for your no-start and, if so, it's possible to overhaul the original pump to keep as a spare. I wonder if the 'limp mode' issue was the pump on the way out, though I'm really surprised there was no code for low fuel rail pressure if that is the case. Keeping fingers crossed anyway!
Outstanding!!!! Clear down to earth video... Easy to follow step by step diagnosis with everything you could possibly want... By far the best you tube mechanic for Mitsubishi canter ... Excellent!!!
Bruce I am presently building out an Isuzu NPR-HD diesel with a rather large habitat as well. I have struggled with a slide out deck or a fold up. I have opted for a folding deck as it will secure the door just in case it is not locked or opens for some unknown reason. My deck is almost the same size as yours, I have Motor craft door from Germany with a 28" wide opening and the door is about 30" so we are using 5 foot as well to cover the door when swung open. I am coming out 24". My metal extrusions have 80/20 tracks built into them, so it is an easy attachment for me as well. Let me know if you want a couple of pics, tell me where to send. always enjoy your videos, hope you find a solution to your engine, that is a bumper. Good Luck!!
Are there currently no marker lights on top of your cab? LED's like this draw very little power, so if your vehicle was originally set up for incandescent bulbs for marker lights, you likely don't need to worry about installing a relay. If your truck has a "bulb bown" indicator, you may need to install some resistors to avoid the warning light from coming on.
That no-start condition is turning into a Perils of Pauline serial. Drat! Condolences on that and the trailer issue. Have you put together a truck tool kit yet, and left it in the truck? Ditto a massive one for hauling in the overlander. Consider hydraulic actuation for the deck. Or repurpose one of your leveling jacks for the job? (eville grinne as he waxes his mustache)
Well the worst part is I have a perfectly portable tool kit, which was sitting perfectly stowed in our other Fuso (FE). 🤣. The FG will have a LOT of tools and parts stowed - the whole reason to build super light is so you can load it up with tools right!!
That starting issue is a tough one. I know a fellow who parks his tractor on a rise and then starts it with a push! Again glad to be of assistance. If I was there I could pretend to be pushing at the back when you turn the key. It's just an educated guess.
Yep, that’s the ground buss - not really a required part, but allowed me to use the original wiring that came with the BMS, add the fuse, and gives a point to make any other Small gauge ground connections per battery if needed.
Idea- Have your steps parallel to the camper. If you go shopping or someone pulls in beside you while you're out, you can still walk up the steps to get inside or unload groceries. If the steps are perpendicular, you may have to move the truck just to walk up the steps which could be a PITA.
Yep, read the codes through the gauge cluster and it should tell you what’s causing the engine light, which hopefully is the cause of the no start. Don’t buy a code reader for your Mitsubishi Fuso without watching this first! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XI-nOFkUMK0.html
@@BruceandKrista i pulled the following codes SAM 2372, 2374,52205,52206,53208,532020,521994. The FMI is 5 The engine codes are 110, 102, (132 FMI 2) 176,174,1074,(1076 FMI 4, 5,) 1636, 3470, 3361, 2791 Can tu please tell me what thes codes means
Each of the SPN codes should have a corresponding FMI… need to know both to know what they are saying. None of the SAM codes will be preventing a start, that’s just things like light bulbs.
Totally unrelated to the great content here which is inspiring me on how to build my own future rig potentially using extrusions for the interior framing, but I also *dearly* appreciate how concise your episodes are. It took me forever to get used to 15-30 minute episodes from most channels, and now suddenly seeing your 6-10 minute ones is refreshing. Same info, little fluff. Appreciated!
Thanks! I agree, a lot of channels have a tendency to ramble - which is very easy to do - I often over explain something, repeat things, and find myself re-recording bits because it can be said in fewer words. It also often takes more time in editing than it does in actually doing, getting rid of absolutely everything that isn’t needed. In fact, if I wasn’t taking the time to be recording and editing all of this I’m sure my project would be finished by now 🤣🤣.
