i thoroughly enjoyed the video, there is not much content on cool FC's drifting so I am glad you made this video. Also thank you for adding English subtitles, looking forward to more videos!
I'm thrilled that you watched the entire video! I also feel the same way; there aren't many cool FC drifting videos out there. What's cool is subjective, but knowing that at least one person thinks so makes it all worth creating my original content. Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Hey man, I love the drifting and the FC you have, I really want to make the exact look that you have but I cant find any of the body kits and parts, can you list down all the parts you have on the fc and how you did it? (If theres any parts put together), I subscribed!
Hi ! I'm looking forward to see your modified FC someday ! front bumper - RE Amemiya/Foresight T1 Hybrid rear bumper - R-Magic hood - D-MAX D1 Spec front fenders - BN Sport side skirt - R-Magic rear fender - Foresight R35 quarters
4suke4suke I’m back! I also need help finding the headlight covers, does re-anemiya already provided one? Or do I have to do DIY Of some sort, do you know where you got those headlight covers? Thank you! I’m still going for my dream!
+MicrochipSlayer Well hopefully you get a good one. Keep saving money in case of a rebuild or just save money for doing a rebuild in general. I daily a FC N/A and i love it as well as it's quirks although im no mechanic. First off do everything maintenance wise when you get it. Change oil. use just a standard minreal oil 10w-30. Never use synthetic unless in high performance applications. the synthetic doesn't burn off as well and will leave deposits in your engine causing you're seals to gunk up and boom engine failure. Although this is a very controversial argument but most people go with mineral. Also. Always try keep a spare quart of oil on you too. If you've done your research you know rotarys burn oil by nature and it's important to keep it at an optimum oil level. I always try to check ever other gas fill up since it's a convenient time (i fill up really often since i don't fill it with much). Also do a coolant flush and check your coolant cap for residue. Rotaries are dependent on their cooling systems. While im at the gas station i always check my coolant reservoir as well. Keep some spare coolant too just in case. plus you can help out some stranded people as well. :) It's probably a good thing too to replace all you're other fluids as well since who knows how long they've been there. Also probably the most important thing is never push a rotary engine while it's cold! The housings are made up of two different metals which expand at different rates. pushing a rotary while it's cold can cause catastrophic engine failure. For me personally i always run out and start my car atleast five minutes and longer in the winter before I take it for a drive. It's a pain but so far i haven't had any problems. Same goes in reverse. If you've been having fun at the 8000 redline be sure to let it cool off a bit before shutting off or just allow some time for a cool down while you're driving. Furthermore never shut off your engine right after you started it up cold. rotarys have a warm up cycle where they dump fuel into the combustion (chamber?) to warm up quicker. if you shut it off it will flood and rotaries are very difficult to unflood although there is a secret way to unflood involving removing a fuse but im not going to go into that. The N/A FC's have been known to be pretty reliable when taken care of, some even reaching over 200,000 without a rebuild. Most of this is just basic stuff most rotary guys (and girls) will probably agree on. There are literally hundreds of posts on forums to give a look at as well. So good luck to you and come and join the club.
Thank you so much for the info. I was looking at forums like the RX7 club and learned a good amount of the info you told me. I didn't know not to shut off the engine after a cold start. Also I didn't even think of carrying spare coolant and oil. I did read that it's best to change oil every 3k miles and to never under any situation use synthetic. I was looking into getting a turbo 2 but I would be down for a 90 fc NA. Unfortunately I just got let go from my job and I am back again being a poor college student v.v I might settle for an 86 instead or a datsun 240z but I think those are just as pricy.
Yeah they are pricey XD. I was content with a N/A fc at first but now i have the itch to go faster. Thankfully i have a really clean body so it'd be beneficial to swap. If i were you i'd either start with a turbo 2 (look for a series 5) or a clean N/A body to swap. The turbo's allow for alot more options speed wise just not as reliable. It's actually my first car and im still in high school. (graduating) Although I plan to work for a year and then join the military.
