I needed both pullers but they worked well. Check you can remove the hub nut as that can be a show stopper, and invest in a BMW part when putting back .Depending on which side you do the exhaust hanger has to be unhooked.
@@billebrill8730 wow I hadn’t factored in removing the nut, i looked at it this evening and sprayed it with wd40 in preparation, I have a brand new nut and reluctor ring for it, I’ll grab those extra tools tmoro and it should be ok then
Step 1: remove abs sensor, Step2: insert a new abs sensor with an thin spacer (max 0,7mm) Done Works for 12000km now Of corse is your solution the better one… but if the car is very old and only 2k worth… my solution is the better one 😝
Apart from not being able to access the ring, a new ring cannot be fitted with the wheel bearing and wheel mounting in the way. Removing those is a far bigger job than taking out the half shaft which is relatively easy.
My sensor had been marked by the expanding reluctor ring but still worked fine so I did not replace it. The BMW part number for my 2009 318d sensor is 34526762466. It operates as a single channel sensor with current output of 7ma and 14ma for measuring rotational speed. See my other video.
Thank you. I bought on eBay - "7pc Drive Shaft Puller Service Socket Set**M16 - M30**Vag**VW**BMW**Merc**" a few places do them. The place I bought it from are out of stock I see others doing it.
Hi there... Is there any place in Dublin where I can get this puller.. I was replacing my E90's reluctor ring using a sledge hammer and I damaged the spline of the shaft
@@billebrill8730 Yeah, it's probably this one, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9rPjL9PEK2g.html although I was not able to see the square wave. Maybe. I would have to do it installed on the wheel. Cheers.
@@dzidmail That was how I started unfortunately it is uses a current sensor arrangement. It is not a voltage protocol, it is a current protocol, switching current levels and difficult to detect with a scope.
@@billebrill8730 Actually yeah. This is must be the same protocol. Although, with the 200ohm resistor in series the voltage drop changes (1.4V) should be visible on the scope. I think, either my new sensor are bad too or I need different metal to test them on.
Let me report my memories - maybe will be useful to someone. Your sensor is showing 14mA on far proximity and 7mA on close. My failed rear sensor one was showing 7mA on far and close proximity. Replacement rear sensor was behaving like yours 14mA on far proximity. Now, week later front sensor started reporting error. Yeah, suspicious. It was reading 7mA on far and close proximity. Bought the replacement and was showing correctly 14mA on far proximity and 7mA on close, they sent wrong size (thick rear kind). Then I ordered two Chinese front sensors from different manufacturers. I thought I will stock up on them if another one fails. Both were showing 7mA on far proximity, so they are probably failed as well. They costed $8 and $10 and they are probably some manufacturing rejects. I am going to buy another one and maybe will report further.
God bless you man 🙂 I opened the door this way, removed the lockdoor, installed a new one, locked it and the same situation again, I can't open it either from the inside or from the outside. What's the problem
A lot of info condensed in a short video, hard to find nowadays. It's possible to open the lock without having to drill a hole. Use a slotted screwdriver and hammer it into the small latch seen above your thumb @3:40. This rotates the plate and unlocks the door.
I agree. Well done. It is also possible to fabricate a driver to access it from the side. Coincidentally my daughter traded the Polo two days ago - we got 15 years out of it across two daughters. It was a 2005 car!
I have followed this procedure and have not been able to open my door rear offside passenger door ..the screw plastic and metal part all out .. not sure if I can upload photos in comments any help will be appreciated.. vw 2005 polo 1.4 auto
Painting the shaft wouldn’t have made much of a difference. When you hammer the new ring on, the paint will scratch anyway. Thanks for the video and info about the tools needed. 👍
I bought puller here - www.ebay.ie/itm/282105048992?hash=item41aec56fa0:g:wCoAAMXQL99Sczue&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4K1pQqN8dV8hoMSDHC0%2B5%2BF%2Fkr5wpMJe9VnmSg8BodrQN7aZ6hJjjO%2B8Z0diyFRxXIGe3SrRnDdyRGElAnkSbvTWFc7lWYsSjAXM5IpL4S1UVokczoLFPoyX5qrJI6MqUx58mRXg9vX620GVaV54CWYEW45l7jKbx%2FbdZCm7BBDO1X7PuSiCvxxDHDOPnk0VRZVXZVh3tbnzgGnjwO98IYQF%2Bvh16fXuDnXD0ZlE2IO9wTGG7jvMrgAzisap2k2MrsE%2B%2BHdfXaXiXr6WxGqkG2IPmz710ZpEpWUjixEx8sPM%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR86F_-PPYQ
This is one side. Both sides have them. It is how they tell if one wheel is slipping. I had the other side done by a dealer and it cost me €1,200 because they replaced the full half shaft. That is why I did the second one myself.
I have a 2005 320i (E46) with the 2.2 litre six cylinder engine. I want to replace the ABS sensor rings, however any source that sell those rings lists the 323,328 and farther up the model line. I'd like to know if the rings listed for the 323 etc will also fit the E46 model 320i.
I suppose about three hours if all goes well. I was in no hurry as I was videoing it. I had it done by lunchtime. I did rehearse some parts. I loosened the hub nut and replaced it a couple of days before as that would have been a showstopper and checked all spanner sizes and access.
@@billebrill8730 ah okay thanks, thats awesome and smart to go over it and do all that before hand to make the job easier lol. I still havent bought proper tools to work on these cars yet, dropped it off my at mechanic he had it done around that time aswell, $160 total lol