The white and black nozzles are for acrylic paints, as the manufacturer says. Also, there's one nozzle just for spattering effect.. I have had an airbrush Aztec A470 in beautiful wooden box, 6 nozzles, three side feed cups, and 4 or 5 gravity feed cups, hose, wrench, adapter for 1/4" and adapter for air-can. And VHS tape with a detailed inquiry. On I liked the feel of that airbrush in my hand, the trigger was fantastic (less pressure - less air volume), the line adjusting nut at the back was the best type compared to all types of line adjusting nut systems, from the crown system in front of the trigger when winding from the front, it pushes the trigger back (Paasche), then the small screw in front of the trigger (Badger 100, 100lg,) and the rear "brake" screw system on the back of the airbrush (Iwata, H&S, Creos, Sparmax). After the initial delight, I chose to start working only with properly diluted tempera with water, because I wanted to get a feeling working with this new, and cool designed airbrush, and learn much as possible use advantage and avoid weak points of new design and feeling. When I was used to cleaning the airbrush with such a non-aggressive medium with water and finally with Createx Cleaner. I only had that Aztek A430 for about a month when I noticed colored water leaking at the junction of the two halves of the handle of my airbrush. From the same handle that has a lifetime warranty!! What would have happened if I have used acrylic, enamel or some more aggressive varnish and would the deposits of that color accumulate and stick to the valve or adjusting nut system inside the handle and make it impossible to work? I sold that Airbrush to a customer who never got back to me. Maybe he doesn't worry about such little things. In any case, to me; 👎🏻
As mentioned by the OP at the 1 minute mark, many of the Omni and Badger e.g. Omni 4000 & 5000, Badger 150, 155 airbrushes share a common valve assembly including its internal components. The part numbers are marginally different, but they are the same part and identical components and are interchangeable. The hex wrench to remove the valve screw/referred to as a "nut" by Badger is 1/16" as the parts are manufactured in America. You can get away with using a 1.5mm, but the 1//16 is a perfect fit. Using quality Bondhus tools, I tried both. A couple of tips. 1. Unscrew the valve assembly from the body to tighten the valve screw/nut or you'll overtighten the valve assembly into the body and not tighten the valve screw efficiently. 2. If using an Iwata thread adapter 1/8" BSP with an internal rubber seal/seat, be careful when unscrewing from the air hose that the valve screw/nut doesn't come away with the adapter allowing the spring, plunger and its rubber washer to fall unnoticed and be lost to the carpet monster if not immediately, at some future time. I have no idea how I lost my plunger, o ring, & spring from my Omni 5000, but best guess is this as it's occurred with my Badger 150 as the rubber seat grabbed the insufficiently tightened valve screw/nut and unscrewed it from the assembly as I unscrewed my airbrush from the 1/8" adapter which remained attached to the hose. Of course, a quick disconnect accessory will render this potential issue null.
Superb tutorial! I’m just getting into the airbrush world, specifically for guitar finishing and touch-ups, so this device is new to me. Your disassembly and re-assembly is the of the stuff you’d see in neurosurgery. Maybe do a demo of the brush in use. Nevertheless, thanks for taking the time to put this together. Cheers, mate!
Dude thank you so much. At 7:00 I was SO confused what the point of that feature was because the manual is so awful in that regard. Then I kept looking for a way to limit the lever since even my cheap awful airbrush had that feature and got worried. You saved me a lot of time and nerves, thank you so much
This is great thanks. I have a generic airbrush with similar construction but want to try a better quality branded model as I seem to be cleaning mine all the time due to clogging. How much do you strip down after a) each colour change and b) after each session because this is the part that I find really tiresome and have gone back to aerosol cans. Cheers
2022 update: the regulator/moisture trap comes already installed now, and they've eliminated the use of a hose. Also, they don't include the rattling holder anymore. Thanks for the info about how to adjust the pressure correctly!
Thank you for showing us this awesome piece of German engineering. I've saved the video because in two days I will be ordering my Harder and Steenbeck Infinity. And I can't wait . 👍😊 Update. This is a work of art. I started to get a cheaper airbrush but so glad I went with the Harder and Steenbeck Infinity. 👍😊
I almost skipped this video, as there is no audio nor video for the first 1:30, nice slide show of photos, but not the information I was looking for. I'm glad I saw positive comments and stayed.
5mm, but an unusual pitch. Badger connectors are proprietary to Badger. Omni and Badger used the same valve assembly and so same connector. If you're wanting to connect your Badger to the ubiquitous Iwata 1/8" BSP threaded air hose connection which is pretty much the universal standard, Badger to Iwata thread adapters are readily available everywhere from Amazon and AliExpress through to your local hobby or airbrush stockist.
Even with pliers, I can’t undo the valve. My small wrench doesn’t get tight enough on the round body. Does anyone have any other ideas about how to loosen the valve on a badger 100LG?
Greeeaaat video. The detailed close ups of parts assembly and still photos at beginning...all gold. Nicely done. This video is pretty old as well...wow! 👍👍
9 years on from this review and this airbrush is still one of the best on the market. I adore its look and for me it has been the best airbrush I have ever owned, I use it daily, cleaning it is a doddle as is changing the needle size. A good review 👍
Nice review. I just picked up one of these for spraying fine details on miniatures; I plan on relegating my Iwata HP-CS to base coating or painting larger miniatures such as buildings/vehicles, etc. Another reason the triple coating on the CR Plus is so nice is that it is much more resistant to harsher solvents, so you can happily spray enamels, etc and not worry too much about damaging the finish (the PTFE seals are more resistant than the regular seals in the Iwata too). The trigger action and air/paint control is so much more precise than my Iwata too (which in turn significantly better than my Badger 105).
Thanks for an excellent video and as mentioned, a piece of excellence and I know I bought it for spraying, but have I really got to put paint through it, I'm still dribbling at pure beauty. It's like staring at Rolls Royce in the automobile sector
Be Advised, This is an Incompetent review. The air regulator was not regulating air pressure. The air valve will not shake when the supplied rubber seal is fitted.. If your Iwata operates like this, you have not read the instructions.
My Badger arrived a few days before my Air compressor did. It was working fine until I hooked it up to the compressor. Now it appears the pin of the valve is stuck in the depressed position as the Trigger has no spring back. When attempting use it channels air constantly from compressor and out the front of the Airbrush. How should I go about fixing this issue?
Nice one. My air valve pin fell out...had no idea where the nut and spring went?#$%$@ hehe. Thanks so much for a clear video of that part of the airbrush. Most helpful. Now hopefully I can find replacement parts.
I put mine through a heavy session during the weekend, but because she's so "disassemblable", there was no trouble getting every bit of paint out of her and off her, and at the moment she's looking brand spanking new again. On that chrome finish, paint dribbles can just be scraped off with a fingernail.
