@@kianvejdani9234 appreciate it! I finally got a legit mic setup that won’t fall off lol so next time I make a video like this I’ll have proper exhaust audio
@@JasonJoyrides I'm asking about the "Backend Problem" in the image, or is it probably only displayed on v4.39.20 even 4.49.2x? i.ibb.co/fNww367/backend.jpg
MHD just released some beta maps for the N55 E series that can be installed via the MHD F/G app. I flashed the stage 2+ today and I was impressed. It pulls better, the timing corrections are better now and also boost control is alot better. You can also try them if you want. Also, MHD is planning to add MHD+ to our platform (on the fly map changes, etc)
@@minulachis I AM SO PUMPED FOR THIS!! I flashed 2.XX stage 2+ the other day with low expectations and have been impressed as well. Planning on making a video when I can get a chance. I’ve been getting behind on posting videos. Hopefully should have an editor joining me soon so I can get back on a schedule.
@@JasonJoyrides congrats on getting an editor! Easily moving forward with the videos, I’m really glad for you Also super excited for the maps. Not gonna lie though, I would love for them to add also the MHD+ functionality to our platform
@@minulachis having MHD+ would be absolutely next level. I want to see what the brap sounds like and would love to have the map switching feature. I think that’s really great for a lot of us who daily drive our cars but also like to drive for fun every now and then.
@@JasonJoyrides exactly, let’s see. In their post, they said they are very close with the MHD+ development. Hopefully, in tops 1 month they will release it. Just in time as my license is suspended 😂
Great Video, thank you! It worked as stated and was pretty easy to install. If you have Windows 11, you can skip the 7 Zip step. I believe Windows 11 can extract these files without the extra program. Ista seems cool, excited to dive in and see everything that I can tweak. Please share anything you think that is cool to adjust.
Thank you... I'm currently looking for a unicorn in 2024, an actual 5 spd manual transmission Abarth 500. I'm a sucker for compact hatchback turner style cars. I love'em... All the goodies are the bonus, The manual transmission, good mpg, 10.5 gal tank, smaller wheels, and the availability to turn it into a two seater Boom loving it..
Greatly appreciated as a new owner of a n54 with mhd, catless and muffler delete I'm going to try medium .5 second. It might be fun to run it for a day or so every now and again
@JasonJoyrides hmm. I see repeated issues with 2.56 on the dct with m3 lsd swap sp wasn't sure. Seems like for cost of used m3 lsd .. plus xhp would be cheaper and better to just go with a plug and play mfactory lsd
@@Jewnbug1 I’ve been doing a lot of research on this as well man. I’ve been back and forth between getting an entire rear subframe assembly from a wrecked M3 and swapping that in or going with just upgrading bushings and whatnot back there or just doing an LSD swap designed for the 135i but not one that is the whole housing and everything. Interested to hear what you end up going with if you sort yours out before me.
@JasonJoyrides from what I've been told.. the entire rear subframe swap is not worth it at all. This from many that track theirs and state .. bushings , control arms rear and front and lsd is all you need to have that superior ride. The the subframe is negligible and not needed as the current subframe is perfectly fine.
@@Jewnbug1 that’s good news for me then. All M3 bushings and control arms are currently in my cart lol. Just saving up till I can go full send on it. So I guess at that point I’ll be really close and just need to do the LSD, which MFactory is only like $900ish right?
3:48 This is exactly what I have in my Fiat 500C. I'm getting an Abarth 595 soon but I hate the driving position in the car. It's either comfortable legs or comfortable arms. No way in between.
Oh I remember what you are talking about. It's almost like the female micro USB they provide is too small but if you compare them they look fine. I just muscled mine in there. Once I forced it in one time it was a little easier after that. Not sure why it is slightly smaller but you should be able to force it in. Just be careful not to bend any of the internal pins as you force it on.
@@mariovaladez1 I believe I ignored the Key 1 and Key 2 wires. I used the power plug, the backup camera, the USB, and the antenna. Once you get it wired up make sure you test it before putting it all back to make sure you have everything working that you want. Since installing it, it has still been working great and has retained functionality of all factory options like steering wheel controls and backup camera. Let me know if you have any other questions and I will do my best to remember what I did.
Do you find you set your steering wheel further away in the twisties? I like it close for daily so I can comfortably rest my left hand at 12 o clock. Last run I noticed if I set it further away, it helped with elbows folding in and I had a faster run.
@@robertpurvis6106 I think my steering wheel is set on the most extended setting (closest to my body) but that’s mainly because I have long legs so my seat is set pretty far back. If I was to guess, I probably reach a bit more in general because I like my arms to be extended in all forms of driving. I rarely rest my hand on the 12 o clock position. If I’m relaxed I drive with one hand on 6, but almost all other times I’m at 9 and 3. I’m weird I guess haha
@@JasonJoyrides Ah that makes sense. I got shorty legs but normal arms, so I have to set the steering wheel all the way in during runs. In the streets I drive different. Habits from work van. I turn the wheel with the palm of my hand. I do lock thumbs in when driving spirited. Glad to see you sending it into the turns. Why we bought the damn thing.
@@robertpurvis6106 you got that right! Can’t wait to have this thing handling right. I have to say though for a RWD car, it’s just stable in corners as a lot of FWD cars are that I have driven. I can only imagine what a proper M car feels like.
@@JasonJoyrides Anything more than 390hp without LSD and it might be dangerous. I find it perfect atm. Small wheelbase and hydraulic steering baby. After getting all new arms up front, I am curious how much better it could be to spend the cheese on the rear. You will get it dialed. Took me a couple yrs and you are moving with it faster than me.
Hi Jason, wanted to know if you had any experience with the M3 control arm upgrade for the 135i, I was debating doing it and wanted to know your opinion on them. I love your videos btw especially the MHD series you did!!
@@JasonJoyrides Hey Jason, just wanted to let you know I ended up getting TRW M3 controls arms for the front, and the car def feels much more stable and direct when turning. No regrets here!
@@chrxsjxhn awesome man! Thanks for the update! They are currently sitting in my cart. I’m doing all control arms front and back and all of the other bushings in the rear. Did you get an alignment after? Curious how much your camber was changed. I’ve read that the M3 lower control arm increases camber by a whole degree.
@@JasonJoyrides Yes my shop did do an alignment and calibrated it for a more aggressive driving setting. The appearance of the camber is noticeable as well, but it depends how your shop sets it up. I would take it to a shop that is involved in racing or just has experience doing this kind of set ups because the alignment is what adds to the control arm upgrade
Got a 2013 with 87k and dang oil pan is starting to leak. Didn't realize what a big job it is, taking out the whole subframe damn! Have you done replaced it yet?
@@GeezerEnduro no sir it’s the only gasket that has not be replaced. Mine is leaking very slowly so I just keep a close eye on my oil level to make sure I don’t starve the engine. I don’t feel like fussing with it yet lol
I was able to replicate all of Jason's resets and mods using ISTA+ on my own 2011 135i with N55 and this works pretty much as advertised - car runs and shifts so much better than before! Give it a try and don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe!
Hello all, Jason was a good as his word and gave me as much help as I needed to get this software installed and working - big shout out to him and don't forget to Like and Subscribe!
Hi Jason! Many thanks for putting this up - I have an E82 135i N55 with the DCT, so very much looking forward to resetting the trans adaptions using ISTA+! In any event, I was able to download the ISTA+ torrent files using the Google Drive link with no problem, but when I ran the actual ISTA+ installer program, it totally skipped over the part where you set up/select the installation drive/directory. Then of course the actual install failed, because the "drive/directly was not accessible" Any idea what might be happening here ? In the meantime, I have deleted everything and I am downloading the torrent files again, so I will update my findings later - maybe 2nd time's a charm ??
Hmmm interesting that it skipped that part. Could it be due to the fact that you don't have 7zip on your computer? If it doesn't work this next time, don't delete everything. I can walk you through how to download what you need and in what order for it to be installed. The installer just makes it much easier since it does that for you. I have also installed it a different time where I downloaded each 7zip file separately.
@@JasonJoyrides Hi Jason - thanks for quick reply. I do in fact have 7 zip already installed on this laptop! I even decompressed that big zip file first (before running the installer) to see if that made any difference, but it did not. I'll let you know what happens on the next try and I do appreciate your offer of support!
@@stanelder9995 ah hmmmm. Truly I can't say why it skipped that step then. Hopefully it doesn't this time but we'll get you squared away by the end of it regardless! It's truly a joy to help sir!
@@JasonJoyrides Hi again! I did successfully download the entire torrent again and unfortunately it is doing the same thing. For some reason the installer utility thinks that the installation directory is already pre-selected to be somewhere else and after going through all the other pre-install selections (per your video), the installer then times out immediately with this exact message: "The drive or UNC share you selected does not exist or is not accessible. Please select another."
@@saintstevealbans7018 Good luck! Let me know if you have any issues. In all fairness, it took me about 2 weeks of research to actually get ISTA downloaded. I tried downloading from multiple places, but this one was the most straight forward.
@@JasonJoyrides flexfuel analyzer install would be a good video. Since most people with these cars are running some type of ethanol Blend. But I could find a video on an diy install on a 135i n55.
@@alexdeluna1999 ISTA+ does more with F series than E series. The connection with the cable is slightly different though. You need an Ethernet cable instead of a K CAN cable and your connection settings should be ICOM local network instead of EDIABAS. There may be a couple miscellaneous things that I don’t know about just because I haven’t tried to connect to an F series car yet. Hopefully if you run into any snags you can find answers on the forums, but for downloading the actual software it is exactly as shown in the video. Feel free to ask questions as you go along. I love to help!
hey sir! WHat do you think about soft duration 1.0s WITH 200 CELL HIGH FLOW CAT? (I have DCE Parts 200cell downpipe with heatshield will it be fine? Or it will damage the cat?)
@@patrikturu truthfully I think anything above OEM style is going to be damaging overtime. Even on the soft settings, when my exhaust warms up it still sounds like an AK. The OEM Style sounds pretty rowdy when you let off above 4-5K RPMs too when it gets hot. If you are trying to play it safe I would have to say OEM Style is the only setting you should go for. If that isn’t loud enough for you though, soft won’t be nearly as bad as medium or hard, so at least you aren’t inflicting that much damage. But over time I think it’s life will definitely be shortened a little. Just my opinion though I’m no expert!
Truly I cannot speak on the ZF auto cars. I would definitely recommend searching the 1 addicts forum to see if anyone has done it on their ZF6HP. What are your current problems you're having with it?
@@JasonJoyrides just got the car. runs little rough and thought this would improve it also. i think i have an abs speed sensor problem I have to take care of also.
@@kristiemoore3974 hmm if I am honest I don't think your issue has anything to do with what I showed in this video. When you say running rough, do you mean that it is misfiring? Have you used an OBD reader to see if it is running lean/rich? Might be a good place to start just as a preliminary troubleshoot.
great video jason!! I have 2010 128i no headhunit. you think its best to just use reverse light wire for power? I don't want to cut into wires either but not sure I can get power from somewhere else?
You are adding a reverse camera but no head unit? If you don't want to do what I did in this video then you can use the reverse light wire for sure. I saw a great video from someone else where he did that on his E90. He did it the proper way with a relay, not just with the tail light power wire going directly to the camera. I was going to do it his way but was messing around with the wires once I got my aftermarket head unit in and figured I'd try some other methods just to see what I could come up with and was super happy to see it work with the head unit accessory wire.
@@kristiemoore3974 you can get the camera like mine that is integrated into the trunk handle on amazon for around 50 bucks or aliexpress for around 20. Just make sure that you match up your camera output type with the mirror/screen you get. For instance, my screen was AHD 1080P so I made sure I got an AHD 1080P camera.
@@kristiemoore3974 The video is by Tyler Nardone. Here is the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8SmZieCqsYY.htmlsi=HylzCc2159ECPzDS
Yes I misspoke they make 160hp, not 150. As for the LSD, the US spec Abarth did not come with a proper mechanical LSD. You can tell that just by driving it if you've ever driven a car with a true LSD. Look on forums with owners that are tracking these cars. They all recommend putting a true LSD in it, specifically the Quaife.
I’m running a pure 500 with the 1.8 version and it feels so off compared to stock turbo on 1.6 Power delivery is more linear but less torque. it does pull all the way to redline compared to stock turbo.
My 2011 135i M-Sport may benefit from this - I have just changed the DCT fluid and filter (along with lots of other maintenance) and I have all the unwanted behaviors that you list! I already have INPA and NCS Expert, so looking forward to how to get set up with ISTA!
@@stanelder9995 love a big DIY guy! I recently did the full service as well as a bunch of other maintenance. I’m happy to report that I have caught up on all maintenance items on the car. I’m working on that ISTA video now and getting it out as soon as I can!
@@itz_dxve after resetting adaptations and doing a full DCT service, the trans has been shifting better than ever. I am chasing down a trans cooling problem but it’s unrelated to what was shown in this video.
@@itz_dxve no it is not necessary. Tons of people have done the reset on their 135i, 335is, or M3 without touching the physical components. In all of my research, I have found no evidence that it will hurt your transmission. In my case, it made my car drive like an absolute dream.
@@JasonJoyrides okay, because i got an M4 F82 and i always got the problem that when i am coming to a nearly stop, and the car is in 2nd gear, i get on the accelerator and the rpms going up and then after a little while i got a kick in the ass and the car goes on (i think this is because the clutches are not engaging properly or not fast enough). I hope the reset will fix this :/
@@itz_dxve yeah man I had a similar issue where the RPMs would climb to 1800 RPM before the clutch would engage. I think the clutches get bumped around overtime so they need to be recalibrated every now and then.
@@base1y hmmmmm I wonder why that would be. As far as I can tell it poses basically zero risk. Maybe someone else can inform me if there is a risk worth noting. Well hopefully after my video next week, combined with this one, you’ll be able to take care of that yourself for free.
@@base1y dang. I highly highly recommend getting this done over xHP. xHP only changes values in the software to affect how the transmission acts. It does nothing in terms of adaptations. MHD also has adaptation reset options and none of them did a thing for me. I have read that ProTool does transmission adaptation resets, and I saw some people report that it helped them in their case. Could be worth looking into if you don’t want to go the ISTA+ route. ProTool does not perform the same reset that ISTA+ does though, since it does not make it go through the learn-in procedures that is audible in the video.
My car is tuned with xHP and it does not make much of a difference, if any at all, when it comes to the speed of the upshift. DCT is as quick as it gets with that. xHP has some other awesome features though that I have really liked having. I made a video on that if you're interested.
really appreciate this. I started my MHD journey with 1.84 stage 1 (N55 e92). Was really underwhelmed. Switched to 1.60 after your video and made a world of difference.
I would say that music sounds the same but I have noticed a slight bit of distortion on phone calls or when Siri reads a text to me. It doesn’t bother me much but just something I noticed.
Good information I just bought the MHD software for my F10 535i and interested in what the difference will be for the different stages. My car did come with the M Power Kit which I believe is just a tune from the dealer.
Nice! I will let you know that I believe the F10 535i has different map packs from my E82 135i, which means that you have the regular N55 license from MHD which does not actually have different versions to choose from like the N55e platform shown in this video.
@@JasonJoyrides I did not know that thanks. Have you dyno your car to see what the difference in power is? I have done the stock dyno which put me at 300hp/323tq interested to see what the MHD tune does.
@@ProjectZGarage no sir I have not dynoed it. I will eventually when I get a custom tune. The butt dyno can definitely tell a difference though, especially if I go back to stock after being on stage 2+ for a while.
I just picked up a 2013 Fiat 500 Abarth with 88,000 miles for $6,000. These cars are an insane deal. I was concerned about the pricing of the car, but I drove it 850 miles home, averaging 38.1 mpg and had zero issues the entire drive.
There’s a lot of variables that play into the answer to that question but I’d say yes stage 1 will not hurt anything. Just remember that routine oil changes are the most important thing with these cars. Now that they are getting older, we are seeing high mileage cars that lasted because they were taken care of, and lower mileage cars that weren’t taken care of the way they should have are having failures. If your engine has been well cared for, the mileage doesn’t scare me at all.
@@JasonJoyrides thank you for the input. The oil has been changed every 3000-3500 miles and coils and spark plugs were recently done. If I was to just run stage 0 burble on medium from what I read that won’t affect anything reliably wise is that correct?
@@That_slowf10 that’s correct stage 0 is the stock map with only burbles and a couple other options that you can change that won’t affect the engine. My only word of caution with the burbles would be to stick to soft burbles because running the more aggressive burbles can blow up your turbo. It’s super hard on the seals.
@@troyboyblack3630 right now I’m catching up on maintenance before going on a tail of the dragon trip. After that I’d like to get into some suspension stuff
Truthfully, I don’t know much about it. I do remember seeing a post from DiCorse on one of the Facebook pages where he was talking about it. I believe he said that 95% of cars that came in his shop with that issue, it was due to a lack of routine maintenance as well as oil starvation (usually due to a lack of routine maintenance). These cars burn oil (some believe they don’t burn oil but actually suffer from blow by or that the turbo is the one burning the oil) so it is easy to allow the oil level to get too low which causes a multitude of problems. It’s a basic answer but the best thing you can do with these cars is stay on top of the oil changes and wait for the car to warm up before you start getting into boost. My car has been very reliable and I beat on it (responsibly) daily.
